^^^^ 1
1 i i i I * 'I i 1 '
m i
■ ■ ■ ' i ■. .' . 1
\W m
OF CALIFORNIA
AT LOS ANGEI
FORNIA
ill I
CALIFORNIA-
AND BACK
^
TO THE READER OF
*'To California and Back.*'
THIS little book is wholly devoted to a description of Western
scenes, and nothing in the nature of a railroad advertisement
has been admitted. It is a trustworthy descriptive book of
travel, undefaced by statistics, itineraries, or reference to any particu-
lar line of railroad beyond a brief introductory note. It is hoped,
however, that a perusal of its pages will create a desire to visit the
scenes described, and the reader who desires to know something spe-
cifically about the cost and other details of such a journey is hereby
informed that at all times of the year excursion tickets for the round
trip to California and back, by way of the Santa Fii Route, are on
sale at low rates, which, under ordinary circumstances, are f no from
Chicago, f I02 from St. bonis, and $90 from Kansas City, and from
other cities in a corresponding ratio. These rates are subject to vari-
ation from time to time. The final limit of these tickets is nine
months from date of sale, giving amjDle time for a prolonged stay at
the many points of interest in California, and stop-over privileges are
allowed west of the Missouri River. Although the journey is
described as being made westward over one line and eastward over
another, in order to afford the greatest variety of scene, excursion
tickets are not restricted to such use, but ma}' read out and back over
the same line if desired, or the trip described in "To California-
AND Back " may be made in the reverse order. Pullman Palace
sleeping-cars are run daily from Chicago and Kansas City. Tourist
sleeping-cars are also attached to the daily California tj-ains. These
differ from the Palace sleepers onljr in the particular that they
are less luxuriously finished, and accommodations therein may be
had, in consequence, at a lower rate. Either first or second class
tickets are honored in tourist sleepers. A list of the principal ticket
offices of the Santa Fk Routk is given on back of this page, and
requests for further and more specific information, made either in
person or by mail upf)n any of these offices, will be promptly
attended to.
Note.— November, 1896.— When this book was publi.slied, the California train,
via the Santa Fe Route, left Chicago at a late hour in the evening. The name,
"California Limited," has since been transferred to a much faster train
which, during the winter season of 1896-7, will leave Chicago at 6.00 P. M.,
every Wednesday' and Saturday, and is in addition to the daily through train
which leaves Chicago at 10.25 P- M. The "California Limited" is now a
strictly first-class limited train, carrying Pullman Palace sleepers, dining car,
and buffet smoking car. The daily train carries tourist sleeping-cars in addi-
tion to its other equipment, and on the latter all classes of tickets are honored.
The wording of page seven makes this explanation desirable.
SANTA Fli ROUTE TICKET OFFICES.
AMirgUKUQUE. K. M H.8. VAN SLVCK. (Jon.-ial AkimI.
HAKKHSKlKl.l). Va\ R. II. HWAYNK, I'll^.Bl•ll(f<•l Ak'< iH.
IIOSTOS. Mii,K»,S:t.'\Vn»hliigrtonSt 8. W. MANNlNCi. (J.nrnil N,« Kim'land Ak'<iit.
HKUUKKT A. CI.AV.TiHV.IliiK' Atf.iic,
niKX). t"ul T.J. DI'.NN. lM!.H.'iit,'.i At'<iit.
C'HltWliO, Ill.,5!12Cliirk St J. M. «0.\NKI,1,. ('ii.v |•M^^.l■ll^,'l•l• iiml Tifk.l A(feiit.
(;. C. liAKVKV. I'as.-cnu.T Atfiiit.
Doarborn Station H. DIWIIAM. l'nss<ni,-.r .Vjjciit.
I'INCIXNATI. Ohio. 417 Walnut St HKO. T. (ilJNNU", iliiuiiil .Vmiit I'ftsi^cnt;.-!- D.'pt.
IIILOUADO SI'UINHS. Colo C. U. HOYT. Cit.v I'a.ss.iit;,.! ,\K<-iit.
DALLAS, Texas, Onind Windsor Hotel CHA8. L. HOLLAND. r.i>srii^'er AMTiiit.
Traveling ra>siii(fi'i- .-Vifcnt.
DESVKU, Colo., 1700 Lawronce 8t .1. !'. II ALL, (li'iui al Ak'riu I'assfn).'"'!' IH'l'in'l '"''"I
.IXO. .1 .'^1, WIN, rav>,.Mi;ci .\i;,nt.
DKS MOINES, In. ,818 Kanitabl.' nuil(ling..K. L. I'.\LMI;k, ra>Mii>;.i .Vk'hI.
|)KTK<.)IT, Mioh., 0.1 IJilswoia .St K. T. 1 1 K V I Ht V. ( unc-ia I .\ ^;.•Ml J'asscnifor U,\,t
J. N. H.VSTKIX). I'ass.iin.r Ani'iit.
KL I'ASO.Tex., Wells, Fargo & Co.'.s Bldp. IC, COl'I.ANI). (i.iienl Aavur.
W. H. I'.HdWXE, Tiav.liiiK' KrciKlitand I'ims'r A^l
KKESNO.Cnl., 1828 Mariposa St T. II. WAl<KIN(iTUN. KnJk'lit ami I'ass'r Airi-m
KT. WOKTH, Te.\tts, WS Main St W . Doll Kin" V, Hassc-iPK'ei- Atfrut.
UALVESTON", Texas, 224 Tremont St MAX NAli.MANN. I'asseiik'ii- A^'ont.
lilLKOY, Cal JAS. c. ZUCK .V CO., ras..*fiijr.r Agents.
11 ANKOKI), Cal .^.E. WEISHAUM. PasseutfiT Auent .
HOCSTON. Texas. OTS Main St J, K. GKEENHILL, Passenger Agent.
KANSAS CITY, Mo.. 10.">0 Union Ave. ami N.
E. cor. 10th ami Main Sts. . . .GEO. W. H AGESBUCH. Pass'r and Ticki-t Acent.
10.')0 Union Av^ L. F. H.U'oN, I'a.ssciik'ci Aj;cnt.
W. .r. .lANNEY. I'asMimii- A^'ent.
LE A VEXWOUTH, Kan. ,4-28 Delaware St.... GEO. .1. CIl.Vl'l.lN, (i. m lal Atrint.
LONDON. En^fluud, 12a I'all Mall T. V. WILSON, (ii in lal i;iir..|aan Agent.
LOS ANOKLES, Cal., 200 Spring St E. W. MifiKK, Citv I'a^siiiir. randTieket Atreiit.
l.oS OAIOS, Cal It. V. KOHKKTSON, l'a.•is^•n^rer Atfenl.
.M.\l>KKA.('al GEO. II. SMITH. r,isseii(,'er Atrent.
*lAKYsVlLLE,Cal.,a28D .St A. W. HOLHHOOK. Freight aiul Passenfrer AgeiU.
MEH« 'ED, Cal ' J. A. McKENZl E, Passenger Agent.
MINNEAPOLIS, Mliia.,.')13 Guaranty Loan
Building C. C. CARPENTER, Pa.ssenger Agent.
MOPFSTO, Cal JAMES .lOHNSON. Pa-isenger Agent.
MoNTKKAL. Quebec, 136 St. James St D. W. II ATt 11, Traveling Agent.
NEWMAN. Cal CHARLES sT CLAIK, Passenger Agent.
NI.W ORLEANS. La.. 642 Gravier St M. W. .lOYCK. Oemial Agent.
NEW Y')RK CITY, 2B1 Broadway CHAS. 1). SIMoNSON. General Eastern Agent.
E. F. HL'HNKTT. Eastern Passenger Agent.
CHAS. A. MAKSII, Pas: enger Agent.
OTTO FAAS. Passenger Agent.
OAKLAND, Cal., 1118 Broadway J. J. WARNER. Freight and Passenger Agent.
PKOKI.V. 111., 41.">Woolner Building GEO. C. CHAMl'.ERS. Passenger Agent.
PKT.M.r.MA.Cal E. C. MII-LS, Passenger Agent.
PlEISLi ). I '..lo. Triangle Block ROBT. YOUNG. City Ticket Agent.
S A( 'R A.MKNTO, Cal.. f.l:; K St G. W. RAILTON, Freight and Tassenger;Agent.
SALT LAKE CITY, I't.ih. Ill Dooly Block. .J. D. KENWORTHY, General Agent.
SAN DIEGO, Cal., Hortoii House, corner
Fourth and D Sts H. B.KEELER. Agent.
SAN FRANCISCO, Cal., 644 Market St S. H. PERKINS, Ticket Agent.
J. L. DLAIR. Traveling Agent.
SAN JOSE, Cal.. 7 West Santa Clara St H. R. STERNE, Freight and Passenger Ag.-nt.
SAN LUIS OBISPO, Cal A. F. KlTZfiKK ALD. Passenger .\gent.
SANIA I'.ARHARA, Cal., 708 State St JOHN I.. TKISI.OW. (ieneral Agint.
S\NTA CRCZ, Cal., 22 Cooper St H. A. MAKINNI;Y. Passenger .\gent.
s.\ NT A ROSA, Cal FRAN K CH EUR Y, Freight and Passenger Agent.
SKLMA. I'al JNO. I '. MOoKE. P.issengei- Agent.
ST. .losEPH. Mo.. Board of Trade BIdg L. O. STILKS. Citv Passeiigi-r and Ticket Agent.
ST. Lol'IS. Mo., 420 Commercial Bldg C. A. 11 AKTWELf., Passenger Agent.
STOCKTON. Cal., 439 East Main St F. E. VALENTINE, Freight a tid Passenger Agent.
TILAKE. Cal : N. W. ll.\LL. Freight and Passengi'r Agent.
VISALI A. Cal L. LAWKENCK. Passenger Agent.
'.V ATSi IN VILLE. Cal H. S. FLE TCH ER, Passenger Agent.
WOODLAND. Cal L. W. IIILLIKER, Passenger Agent.
To California
and Back
By C. A. HIGGINS
Illustrations by
J. T. McCUTCHEON
PASSENGER DEPARTMEN7
SANTA FE ROUTE
CHICAGO, 1893
Copyright, 1893,
By Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railroad
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
HAPTER PAGE
Advertisement S
I. Preliminary Stages 7
II. New Mexico 11
LAS VEGAS HOT SPRINGS I7
SANTA FE 20
PUEBLOS 25
PENITENTES oq
III. Arizona 31
CHALCBDONY PARK 34
MOQUIS 35
CANON DIABLO 38
FLAGSTAFF 39
SAN FRANCISCO MOUNTAIN 40
GRAND CANON OF THE COLORADO 44
CLIFF AND CAVE DWELLINGS 47
CENTRAL AND SOUTHERN ARIZONA 48
IV. Southern California 50
of climate 53
san diego and vicinity 61
capistrano 68
story of the missions 70
los angeles 77
pasadena 81
riverside and vicinity 82
redondo and santa monica 82
santa catalina island 84
santa barbara 88
OSTRICH FARMING Qf
WINTER SPORTS f
3
9^3
CHArrmii pagb
V. NoimiKKN CALlrONKIA Q4
HAN fKANCISCO 95
tlllNATOWN q8
SANTA CLAKA VAl 1 I \ Io8
IJ\KR TAHOK . . .... 113
VI. Nkvaua and Uiaii . 113
OGUKN 115
SALT LAKK ClIV I16
r.KKAT SALT LAKK 122
VII. COLUKAIX) 124
GLBNWOOD SPKINCS 12$
SEVEN CASTLES AND RED KOCK CANON .... 129
IIAGEKMAN PASS I29
LEADVILLK 1 30
ItUENA VISTA 133
GRANITE CANON I34
CRIPPLE CREEK I34
pike's PEAK REGION I39
MANITOO 141
ASCENT OF pike's PEAK 144
COLORADO SPRINGS 147
DENVER 149
Mil. HOMHWAKD 150
J
ADVERTISEMENT.
The proprietary lines of the Santa Fe Route extend, un-
broken, through Illinois, Iowa, Missouri, Kansas, southeastern
Colorado, New Mexico, Arizona and Cdlifornia to the Pacific
Coast, and compose the major portion of a through return
route by way of Nevada, Utah and Middle Colorado, in the
following o; der:
Between Chicago and Albuquerque, New Mexico,
Atchison, Topeka tf Santa Fe Railroad (Santa Fe
System).
Between St. Louis and Albuquerque,
St. Louis &= San Francisco Railway (Santa Fe Sys-
tem) to Burrton, Kansas, and Atchison, Topeka b'
Santa Fe Railroad beyond.
Bettveen Albuquerque and Barstow or Mojave, California,
Atlantic <V Pacific Railroad (Santa Fe System).
Bet-ween Barstow and Los Angeles, San Diego and all points
in California east, south and -west of Los A ngeles.
Southern California Railway (Sattta Fe System).
Between Los Angeles and San Francisco, California,
Southern Pacific Railroad by way of Mojave.
Between San Francisco and Ogden, Utah,
Central Pacific Railroad.
Between Ogden and Grand function, Colorado,
Rio Grande Western Railway by way of Salt Lake
City.
Between Grand function and Colorado Springs, Colorado,
Colorado Midland Railway (Santa Fe System).
Between Colorado Springs and St. Louis,
Atchison, Topeka is' Santa Fe Railroad to Burrton,
Kansas, thence St. Louis tf San Francisco Railway
(Santa Fe System).
Between Colorado Springs and Chicago,
Atchison, Topeka 67" Santa Fe Railroad (Santa Fe
System) ,
The circuit of these lines constitutes a comprehensive tour
of the West, whose merits it is desired to bring more particu-
5
\u\y to the tttcntion of tourists, and whose attractions nre the
siil>j''ct i>( ihe follxuini; pagc^ The necrssity of compressing
■ thcmr of larjje pr'i'ortiim* into n space of reasonable bounds
has einbarrAMinrnts whi^ h are only in pait avoided by exclu-
sion of inniiinrritble matters well worthy to be included. It
would be a simpler task ti> fill twice as many panes. Adcq late
ireatmrnl of a tenth of the number of admitted topics would
exceed the limits set to the present volume. All omissions,
therefore, nod any neglect of particular localities, must be
charged to a plan which perforce is fraKmenlary in outline and
restricted by the very extent of its scope to a brief setting
forth of only the most contrasting of the more notable scenes.
With thlsa;ology to the Gieat West the bonk is tendered.
It isii no sense n guide-book, but ex;>licitly an attempt to
present the merits of a relatively few selected typical features
for the consideration of those who weigh the high opportuni-
ties of travel.
The illustrations are from original sketches, and from pho-
tographs by Curran of Santa Ft', Osbon of Flagstaff, Sl^'cum
of Sao Diego, Tabor of San Francisco Aaijac/cson of Denver.
PRELIMINARY STAGES.
JHE California Limited pulls out of Dear-
born Station in Chicago at an hour of
the night when many of its passengers
are already tucked away behind the cur-
tains of their berths. There is Httle to be seen
through the darkness, even if one cared to keep
awake. By day the adjacent country for a few hun-
dred miles would appear a level or mildly undulat-
ing region, rich in agricultural products, and relieved
by bits of stream and forest and by small villages,
with here and there a considerable city, such as
Joliet, and Streator, and Galesburg. It is greater
than the whole of England and Wales, this State of
Illinois, but a very few hours' ride is sufficient to
bring one to its western boundary, the Mississippi
River. This is crossed at Fort Madison, and the
way continues across the narrow southeastern cor-
ner of Iowa into Missouri. While gliding through
the State last named the traveler awakes to sight of
a rolling country of distant horizons, swelling here
and there to considerable hills, checkered with tilled
fields and frequent farm-houses, divided by small
water-courses and dense groves of deciduous trees.
Not one whose scenic features you would travel far
to see, but unexpectedly gratifying to the eye; full of
gentle contrasts and pleasing variety. At the lofty
7
—-1^;,.
SiMcv bridv;c crossing of the Missouri River the swift
s;uiil-lailcn volume of this famed stream (lows far be-
low the level of the eye, and there is wide outlook
upon cither hand. On the farther side the way skirts
bold bluffs for a considerable distance by the side of
the broad and picturesque river that is reminiscent
of the days of a greater steamboat commerce. Then
comes Kansas City, the great commercial gateway of
the Missouri. The Kansas border lies just beyond,
the entrance to that State leading by the serpentine
way of the river of the same name, generously fringed
with groves and affording glimpses of rugged wood-
land scenery which by degrees gives place to the open
prairie.
The billowy surface of Kansas was once the bed
of a vast inland sea that deposited enormous quanti-
ties of salt, gypsum and marbles, and its rock strata
abound in most remarkable fossils of colossal ani-
mal life: elephants, mastodons, camels, rhinoceroses,
gigantic horses, sharks, crocodiles, and more ancient
aquatic monsters of e.xtraordinary proportions, fright-
ful appearance and appalling name, whose skeletons
are preserved in the National Museum. Its eastern
bound was long the shore of the most stubborn wil-
derness of our possession. The French fur-traders
were the first to establish footing of civilization in
Kansas, the greater portion of which came to us as
part of the Louisiana purchase. Sixty-five years
ago Fort Leavenworth was created to give military
protection to the hazardous trade with Santa Fe, and
the great overland e.xodus of Argonauts to California
at the time of the gold discovery was by way of that
border station. The first general settlement of its
eastern part was in the heat of the factional excite-
ment that led to the Civil War. It was the scene of
bloody encounters between Free-soil and Pro-slavery
colonists, and of historic exploits by John Brown and
the guerrilla Quantrell. In the space of one genera-
tion it has been transformed as by a miracle. The
mighty plains whereon the Indian, antelope and buf-
falo roamed supreme are now counted as the second
most important agricultural area of the Union, and
its uncultivated tracts sustain millions of cattle,
mules and horses. Vigorous young cities of the
plains are seen at frequent intervals. Topeka, with
broad avenues and innumerable shade-trees, is one
of the prettiest capitals of the West. The neighbor-
hood of Newton and Burrton is the home of Men-
nonites, a Russian sect that fled to America from the
domain of the Czar to find relief from oppression.
Burrton is the junction-point with the converging
line from St. Louis through Southern Missouri and
Southeastern Kansas, whose topograpliy is of the
same general description, pleasingly pictorial in fre-
quent foliage and running water, with villages and
cities encircled by productive fields, gardens, vine-
yards and orchards.
At Hutchinson one enters Western Kansas, and
from this point for a long distance the road follows the
windings of the Arkansas River, with only occasional
digressions. Dodge City, of cowboy fame, and Gar-
den City, the scene of Government experiments in
agriculture, are the chief centers of this district.
Colorado first presents itself as a plateau, ele-
vated 4,000 feet above the sea. Soon the land-
scape begins to give hint of the heroic. Pike's
Peak is clearly distinguishable, and the two beautiful
Spanish Peaks hover upon the horizon and reappear
long after the first-named has faded from view.
Slowly the Raton Range gathers significance direct-
ly ahead, until it becomes a towering wall, at whose
foot lies the city of Trinidad, beyond which begins
the final ascent to the first of many lofty mountain
gateways, the Raton Pass. The grade is terrific,
xft*»'
and two pt>\vcrful mountain engines are required to
haul llu- tr.iin at a pace liardly faster than a walk.
The viiissiludes of tiie pass arc sucli that the road
wiiids liivc a corkscrew, turning by curves so sharp
the wheels shriek at the strain. From the rear ves-
tibule may be liad an endlessly varied and long-con-
tinued series of mountain-views, for the ascent is no
mere matter of a moment. There are level side
caflons prettily shaded with aspen, long straight
slopes covered with pine, tumbled waves of rock
overgrown with chaparral, huge bare cliffs with per-
jKndiiular gray or brown faces, and breaks through
which one may look far out across the lower levels
to other ranges. A short distance this side the sum-
mit stands what is left of the old toll-house, an
abandoned and dismantled adobe dwelling where
for many years the veteran Dick Wooten collected
toll from those who used the wagon-road through the
pass. Both ruin and trail are of interest as belong-
ing to the ante-railroad period of thrilling adventure,
for by that road and past the site of the dilapidated
dwelling passed every overland stage, every caravan,
every prairie schooner, every emigrant and every
soldier cavalcade bound to the southwestern country
in early days. Beyond this is a wide-sweeping
curve from whose farther side, looking backward
down the pass, an inspiring picture is unfolded to
view for a passing instant — a farewell glimpse of the
poetic Spanish Teaks at the end of a long vista past
a ragged foreground of gigantic measure. Then the
hills crowd and shut ofT the outside world; there is a
deep sandstone cut, its faces seamed with layers of
coal, a boundary-post marked upon one side Colo-
rado and upon the other New Mexico, and instantly
following that a plunge into a half-mile tunnel of
midnight blackness, at an elevation of something
more than 7,600 feet.
At such a Rubicon the preliminary stages may
fairly be said to end.
n.
NEW MEXICO.
JLTHOUGH your introduction is by way
of a long tunnel, followed by a winding
mountain-pass down whose steep incline
the train rushes as if to regain the low
level from which the journey was begun, you will
find New Mexico a Territory in the sky. If its
mountain-ranges were leveled smoothly over its val-
leys and plains the entire area of more than 120,000
square miles would stand higher above the sea than
the summit of any peak of the Catskills or the Adi-
rondacks. Its broad upland plains, that stretch to a
horizon where wintry peaks tower high above the
bold salients of gray-mottled foothills, themselves lie
at an altitude that in the Eastern States must be
sought among the clouds, and at no time will you
fall much below an elevation of 5,000 feet in travers-
ing the portion of the Territory that lies along the
present route.
II
^*"''?W**'''^'''
The landscape is oriental in aspect ami (lushed
with color. Nowhere else can you find sky of deeper
blue, sunlight more dn/./ling, shadows more intense,
clouds more luminously white, or stars that throb
with redder tire. Here the pure rarefied air that is
associated in the mind with arduous mountain-climb-
ing is the only air known; dry, cool and gently
stimulating. Through it, as through a crystal, the
rich red of the soil, the green of vegetation and the
varied tints of the rocks gleam always freshly on the
sight. You are borne over mountains above forests
of pine and fir, with transient glimpses of distant
prairie; through caflons where fierce rock- walls yield
grudging passage and massive gray slopes bend
downward from the sky; along level stretches by the
side of the Great River of the North, whose turbid
stream is the Nile of the New World; past pictur-
esque desert-tracts spotted with sage; and past mesas,
buttes, dead volcanoes and lava-beds. These last
-'J^_ V^,!^
are in a region where you will see not only mountain-
craters, with long basahic slopes that were the an-
cient flow of molten rock, but dikes as well: fissures
in the level plain through which the black lava oozed
and ran for many miles. These vast rivers of rock,
cracked, piled, scattered in blocks, and in places
overgrown with chaparral, are full of interest even
to the accustomed eye. They wear an appearance
of newness, moreover, as if the volcanic action were
of recent date; but there has been found nothing in
native tradition that has any direct bearing upon
them. Doubtless they are many centuries old.
Geologically their age is of course determinable; but
geology deals in rock epochs; it talks darkly of mill-
ions of years between events, and in particulars is
careful to avoid use of the calendar. It is well to
remember that the yesterday of creation is singularly
barren of mankind. We are practically contempo-
raries of Adam in the history of the cosmos, and all
of ancient and modern history that lies between is a
mere evanescent jumble of trivialities. Dame Nature
is a crone, fecund though she be, and hugging to her
breast the precious phial of rejuvenescence. Her
face is wrinkled. Her back is bent. Innumerable
mutations lie heavy upon her, briskly though she
may plot for to-morrow. And nowhere can you find
her more haggard and gray than here. You feel that
this place has always worn much the same aspect
that it wears to-day. Parcel of the arid region, it
sleeps only for thirst. Slake that, and it becomes a
garden of paradise as by a magic word. The present
generation has proved it true in a hundred localities,
where the proximity of rivers or mountain-streams
has made irrigation practicable. The confines of the
Great American Desert are narrowing rapidly. Do
but reflect that a quarter-century back the journey
you now make in perfect comfort was a matter of
13
wiUl adventure, at cost of months of arduous travel
and at hazard of life, not only because of human
Iocs, but for scarcity of food and water. One never
appreciates the full stride of American progress until
he has traversed such a Territory as this in a Pullman
lar. whore Valley of Death and Journey of the I^ead
.iti- names still borne by waterless tracts and justified
bv bleached boms of cattle and of human beings.
Rescued from the centuries of horror and planted in
the front rank of young rising States by the genius
of our generation. New Mexico is a land of broad
ranges, where hundreds of thousands of sleek cattle
and countless flocks of sheep browse upon the nutri-
tious grasses; where fields of grain wave in the
healthful breeze; where orchard-trees bend under
their weight of luscious fruits, and where the rocks
lay bare inexhaustible veins of precious metals.
Here may be found to-day as profitable ranches as
any in the country, and innumerable small aggrega-
tions of cultivated acres, whose owners sit comfort-
ably upon shaded verandas while their servants till
the field. This is the paradox of a region whose
softer scenes will often seem to be overborne by
bleak mountain and desert and lava-bed; that if you
own ten acres of irrigated land here you are that
much-vaunted but seldom-encountered individual, an
independent farmer. You may smile in a superior
way when you hear talk of the profits of bank-stock.
You may look without envy upon the man who is
said to own a gold-mine.
Scattered by the way are sleepy Mexican villages,
ancient Indian pueblos, still inhabited, and those
older abandoned ruins which give to the region its
peculiar atmosphere of mystery. The history of
New Mexico formerly began with a pretty legend
that dated back to a time in Spain when a sovereign
fighting amid his native mountains found himself
14
hemmed in by the enemy, and would have perished
with all his army had not one of his enterprising sol-
diers discovered an unsuspected pass, the entrance to
which he marked with a bleached cow's skull that lay
convenient to his hand, and then returning led a re-
treat through the pass to safety. By order of the
grateful king the family name of the soldier was
thereupon made Cabeza de Vaca — coivs head — to
celebrate so opportune a service. It is to be hoped he
got a doubloon or two as well, but on that particular
head tradition is silent. At any rate, among the
soldier's descendants a talent for discovery became a
notorious family trait. It amounted to a passion
with them. You could not get into any difficulty but
a Cabeza de Vaca could find you a way out. Nat-
urally, then, when Narvaez set sail from Spain for
the Florida coast, three and a half centuries ago, he
took one of that family along for a mascot. The
expedition came to grief on the Florida reefs, but the
mascot survived, and with him three others who had
wisely clung to his legs when the ship went to pieces.
Stranded upon an unknown coast, menaced by hos-
tile Indians, an ocean behind and a wilderness be-
fore, this Cabeza de Vaca felt his heart strangely
stirred within him. He gave no thought to the dan-
gers of his situation; he perceived only that he had
the opportunity of a lifetime to discover something.
So, remembering that in far Mexico his fellow-coun-
trymen were known to dwell, he pretended to pull a
long face and told his companions that to reach the
Mexican settlements was the only hope of surviving.
Then brandishing his sword in a becoming manner
he called to them to come on, and led them across the
unexplored continent of North America, in the year
of grace 1536, by a route that incidentally included
what is now known as New Mexico. Thus, in sub-
stance, runs the legend, which adds that he had a
15
queer talc to toll, on arrival, of Seven Cities of Cibola,
and outlandish people of lieallien appearance and
notions, but of temperate and industrious habits
withal, and presumably rich in treasures of silver and
gold; which incited Coronado to send out an expe-
dition under Marcos de Nizza in 1539, and a year
later himself to take charge of the first real invasion,
conquering native towns by force of arms on his way.
But in the light of modern historical research Ca-
beza de Vaca's local fame dwindles; his head dimin-
ishes. It is denied that he ever saw New Mexico,
and the title of discoverer is awarded to Marcos de
Nizza. It does not really matter, for in either event
the conquest was by Coronado, in whose footsteps
Spanish colonization was first enabled to advance into
the Territory, which, it should be remembered, was
for a long time thereafter a vaguely defined area of
much greater extent than to-day. The Franciscan
friars early began their work of founding missions,
and in the course of time established forty churches,
attended by some 30,000 native communicants.
These natives revolted in 1680, and drove the Span-
iards out of the Territor}', resisting their return suc-
cessfully for a period of twelve years. From the time
of their ultimate subjection (1692) the country grew
in population and commercial importance until, early
in the present century, its trade with Missouri and
the East became very valuable. The route traversed
by pack-mules and prairie schooners loaded with
merchandise will forever be remembered as the Santa
•/;> 16
fc>'4
Fe Trail, and was almost identical with that followed
by Coronado. It is at present, for the greater part
of the distance, the route of the Atchison, Topekaic
Santa Fe Railroad between the Missouri River and
Santa F6 ; and through Western Kansas, Southeastern
Colorado, over the Raton Pass, and at many points in
New Mexico may easily be seen from the train. The
distance was 800 miles, and a round trip then con-
sumed 1 10 days. Merchandise to an enormous value
was often carried by a single caravan. In spite of
the protection of a strong military escort the trail was
almost continuously sodden with human blood and
marked by hundreds of rude graves dug for the muti-
lated victims of murderous Apaches and other tribes.
Every scene recounted by romances of Indian warfare
had its counterpart along the Santa F^ Trail. The am-
bush, the surprise, the massacre, the capture, the tort-
ure, in terrifying and heart-breaking detail, have been
enacted over and over. Only with the advent of the '
railroad did the era of peace and security begin. To-
day the Apache is decimated and harmless, and with
the Pueblo Indian and the Mexican forms a romantic
background to a thriving Anglo-Saxon civilization.
It is this background that gives New Mexico its
peculiar charm to the thoughtful tourist; not alone
its tremendous mountain-ranges, its extensive up-
lands, its fruitful valleys, or its unsurpafsed equa-
bility of cHmate. Its population includes 8,000
Pueblo Indians, 25,000 Navajoes, 1,300 Apaches,
and 100,000 Mexicans; and among the last named
are as noble types of cultured and progressive man-
hood and womanhood as can be found anywhere in
our civilization.
LAS VEGAS HOT Sl'RINGS.
The little Rio Gallinas issues by a tortuous path
through rugged tree-fringed caflon-walls from a spur
17
of the Rockies half a dozen miles northwest from
the lily i>f l.as Vej;as. Upon its banks, at a point
just above where it debouches upon the vegas, or
meadows, numerous springs both cold and hot rise
to the surface in close juxtaposition, their waters
char;;eii with a variety of chemical ingredients. The
medicinal virtues of these springs, supplemented by
the attractiveness of their k)cation upon a shoulder
of the mountains, and the mildness and purity always
characteristic of New Mexican air, led to the erection
of the spacious and beautiful Hotel Montezuma, and
the establishment there of a health and pleasure
resort. It has, moreover, become a sort of half-way
resting-place for transcontinental travelers. It is one
of the few places in the Middle West where a stranger
can lind contentment day after day in comparative idle-
ness. The immediate scenery has not the prodigiously
heroic qualities of the more famous Colorado resorts,
but it is endlessly attractive to the lover of nature in
her less titanic moods. If you love the pine and
the (ir, here you may have your till of them. If you
are fond of a bit of precipitous climbing, you can
find it here on every hand. And if you are for quiet
shaded nooks, or lofty pulpit-perches that overhang
a pretty clattering stream in deep solitudes, here they
abound. And from the adjacent hilltops are to be
had wide-sweeping views eastward over the 7'egas and
westward over rocky folds to where the blue masses
of the mountain-chain are piled against the sky.
There are wagon-roads winding over hill and through
glen, past the verge of cafions and penetrating deep
into the forest, and narrower branching trails for
the pedestrian and the horseman. Who fails to
explore these intimately will miss the full charm of
Las Vegas Hot Springs. It is a place in which to
be restfully happy.
The merits of this spot and of New Mexico gen-
i8
'•''nil ly-iii"'^ '■■».-
erallv, for the invalid, are more specifically treated in
" I'hf I.itnil of Siitis/iiiii-," to wliicli the iiilorcstcd
reader is referrcii. Here it nuist sut'licc to say tluit
every known form of batli is administered in the
hatii-Iiouso at tlic Springs, antl tlic cqual)le air and
almost unbidl<en snnliglit of the long peaceful day
are tlicmselves a remedy for physical ills that are
incurable in the harsh climes of the North and East.
It is not, as might be inferred, a place of distressful
heat, but a land of soft golden light whose parallel
is the most perfect day of a New England spring.
And although the environment of the Montezuma
represents the climax of natural remedial conditions,
joined to comfort and luxury, the wdiole Territory is
a supremely iicalthful region, containing numerous
special localities that differ in elevation and in con-
sequent adaptation to the requirements of the com-
plications of disease. Raton, Springer (where at
Chico Springs a sanitarium has been established),
Las Vegas proper, Santa Fe, and Albuquerque, all
are health-resorts of high merit along the present
route through New Mexico. South of Albuquerque
are several admirable resorts of lower altitude, such
as Las Cruces, in the Mesilla Valley, and El Paso,
in Texas.
In 1605 the Spaniards founded this city under the
name La Ciudad Real de la Satita Fe de San Fran-
cisco (the True City of the Holy Faith of St. Francis),
which, like many another ponderous Spanish title,
has been reduced to lower terms in the lapse of time.
The extraordinary interest of its early days is kept
alive by monuments which the kindly elements pro-
tect from the accustomed ravages of the centuries.
The territorial governor to-day receives his guests
in the same room that served visitors in the time of
20
f-}
^ km
ii
21
the first viceroy. Seventeen American and seventy-
six Mexican and Spanish rulers have successively
occupied the palace. It has survived all those
siranjjc modulations by which a Spanish province
has L>ecomc a territory of the Union bordering on
statehood. The story of the palace stretches back
into real antiquity, to a time when the Inquisition
had powers, when zealous friars of the Order of St.
Francis exhorted throngs of dimly comprehending
heathen, and when the mailed warriors of Coronado
told marvelous uncontradicted tales of ogres that were
believed to dwell in the surrounding wilderness. Be-
neath its roof are garnered priceless treasures of that
ancient time, which the curious visitor may behold.
There are faded pictures of saints painted upon
puma-skins; figures laboriously wrought in wood to
shadow forth the Nazarene; votive offerings of silver,
in the likeness of legs, arms and hands, brought to
the altar of Our Lady by those who had been healed
of wounds or disease; rude stone gods of the hea-
then, and domestic utensils and implements of war.
There, too, among innumerable relics, may be seen
ancient maps of the New World, lettered in Latin
and in French, on which California appears as an
island of the Pacific, and the country at large is con-
fidently displayed with grotesque inaccuracy.
Nearly a mile distant from the palace, on an emi-
nence overlooking the town, stands the old Chapel
Rosario, now neighbored by the Ramona school for
Apache children. In 1692 Diego de Vargas, march-
ing up from the south, stood upon that hill with his
little army of 200 men and looked over into the city
from which his countrymen had been driven with
slaughter a dozen years before. There he knelt and
vowed to build upon the spot a chapel for the glori-
fication of Our Lady of the Rosary, provided she
would fight upon his side that day. The town was
I* 22
M-^
carried by assault after a desperate contest of eleven
hours' duration, and the chapel was built. It savors
quaintly to us of a less poetic age that those royal
old adventurers should have thought themselves hand
and glove with the celestial powers; but they certain-
ly made acknowledgment of services supposed to have
been rendered, upon occasion.
There areotherplacesof antiquarian interest, where
are stored Spanish archives covering two and a quar-
ter centuries and numerous paintings and carvings
of great age; the Church of Our Lady of Light, the
Cathedral of San Francisco, and finally the Church
of San Miguel and the Old House, isolated from
everything that is in touch with our century by their
location in the heart of a decrepit old Mexican village.
Mere, at last, is the real Santa Fe of the traveler's
anticipation; a straggling aggregation of low adobe
huts divided by narro v winding lanes, where in the
sharply defined shadows leathern- faced old men and
women sit in vacuous idleness and burros loaded
with firewood or garden-truck pass to and fro; and
in small groups of chattering women one catches an
occasional glimpse of bright interrogating eyes and a
saucy handsome face, in spite of the closely drawn
tapelo. If now some sturdy figure in clanking armor
should obligingly pass along, you would have an exact
picture of the place as it appeared two centuries and
24
a half ago. Nothing but that figure has departed
from the scene, and substantially nothing new has
entered in. It does not change. The hurrying ac-
tivities and transitions of the outer world, from
which it is separated by only a narrow arroyo, count
for nothing here. One questions if the outline of a
shadow has altered for generations. The Old House,
where Coronado is said to have lodged in 1540, and
the Church of San Miguel, erected soon after, sacked
in 1680, and rehabilitated in 1710, are not distin-
guishable from their surroundings by any air of
superior age. All is old, a petrifaction of medieval
human life done in adobe.
More than a score of these many-storied, many-
chambered communal homes are scattered over the
Territory, three of the most important of which may
be mentioned as lying adjacent to the present route:
Isleta, Laguna, and Acoma. Isleta and Laguna
are within a stone's-throw of the railroad, ten miles
and sixty-six miles, respectively, beyond Albuquerque,
and Acoma is reached from either Laguna or Cubero
by a drive of a dozen miles. The aboriginal inhabit-
ants of the pueblos, an intelligent, complex, indus-
trious and independent race, are anomalous among
North American natives. They are housed to-day
in the selfsame structures in which their forebears
were discovered, and in three and a half centuries of
contact with Europeans their manner of life has not
materially changed. The Indian tribes that roamed
over mountain and plain have become wards of the
Government, debased and denuded of whatever of
dignity they once possessed, ascribe what cause you
will for their present condition. But the Pueblo In-
dian has absolutely maintained the integrity of his
individuality, self-respecting and self-sufificient. He
25
J»be8Li
;uccptcd the form of religion professed by his Span-
ish conquerors, but without abandoning his own; and
that is practically the only concession his persistent
conservatism luis ever made to external influence.
Laborious efforts have been made to penetrate the
reserve with which the involved inner life of this
strange child of the desert is guarded, but it lies like
a vast ilark continent behind a dimly visible shore,
and he dwells within the shadowy rim of a night that
yields no ray to tell of his origin. He is a true pa-
gan, swathed in seemingly dense clouds of supersti-
tion, rich in fanciful legend, and profoundly cere-
monious in religion. His gods are innumerable.
Not even the ancient Greeks possessed a more popu-
lous Olympus. On that austere yet familiar height
gods of peace and of war, of the chase, of bountiful
harvest and of famine, of sun and rain and snow, el-
bow a thousand others for standing-room. The trail
of the serpent has crossed his history, too, and he
frets his pottery with an imitation of its scales, and
gives the rattlesnake a prominent place among his
deities. Unmistakably a pagan; yet the purity and
well-being of his communities will bear favorable
comparison with those of the enlightened world. He
is brave, honest, and enterprising within the fixed
limits of his little sphere; his wife is virtuous, his
children are docile. And were the whole earth swept
bare of every living thing, save for a few leagues
surrounding his tribal home, his life would show no
manner of disturbance. Probably he might never
hear of so unimportant an event. He would still al-
ternately labor and relax in festive games, still rever-
ence his gods and rear his children to a life of indus-
try and content, so anomalous is he, so firmly estab-
ished in an absolute independence.
Pueblo architecture possesses nothing of the elabo-
rate ornamentation found in the Aztec ruins, in Mex-
26
ico. The house is severely plain. It is sometimes
seven stories in height and contains over a thousand
ftH.ms In some instances it is built of adobe —
blocks of mud mixed with straw and dried in the
sun — and in others of stone covered with mud ce-
ment. The entrance is by means of a ladder, and
when that is pulled up the latch-string is considered
withdrawn.
The pueblo of pueblos is Acoma, a city without
a peer. It is built upon the summit of a table-rock
with overhanging eroded sides, 350 feet above the
plain, which is 7,000 feet above the sea. Anciently,
according to the traditions of the Queres, it stood
upon the crest of the superb Haunted Mesa, three
miles away, and some 300 feet higher, but its only
approach was one day destroyed by the falling of a
cliff, and three unhappy women who chanced to be
the only occupants — the remainder of the population
being at work in the fields below — died of starvation,
in view of the homeless hundreds of their people who
for many days surrounded the unscalable mesa with
upturned agonized faces. The present Acoma is
the one discovered by the Spaniards; the original
pueblo on the Mesa Encantada being even then an
28
ancient tradition. It is i,ooo feet in length and 40
feet high, and there is besides a church of enormous
proportions. Until lately it was reached only by a
precipitous stairway in the rock, up which the inhab-
itants carried upon their backs every par.icle of the
materials of which the village is constructed. The
graveyard consumed forty years in building, by rea-
son of the necessity of bringing earth from the plain
below; and the church must have cost the labor of
many generations, for its walls are 60 feet high and
10 feet thick, and it has timbers 40 feet long and 14
inches square.
The Acomas welcomed the soldiers of Coronado
with deference, ascribing to them celestial origin.
Subsequently, upon learning the distinctly human
character of the Spaniards, they professed allegiance,
but afterward wantonly slew a dozen of Zaldivar's
men. By way of reprisal Zaldivar headed three-score
soldiers and undertook to carry the sky-citadel by as-
sault. The incident has no parallel in American his-
tory short of the memorable and similar exploit of Cor-
t^z on the great Aztec Pyramid. After a three days'
hand-to-hand struggle the Spaniards stood victors up-
on that seemingly impregnable fortress and received
the submission of the Queres, who for three-quarters
of a century thereafter remained tractable. In that
interval the priest came to Acoraa and held footing
for fifty years, until the bloody uprising of 1680 oc-
curred, in which priest, soldier and settler were mas-
29
♦acrcil or driven fri)m the land and every vestige of
their ociupatiim wasexlirpated. After the resubjec-
tion of tlic natives by Diejjo do Vargas tlic present
church was constructed, and the Pueblos have not
sintc rebelled ajjainst the contiguity of the white
tn.in.
I'KMIKNTKS.
All the numerous Mexican communities in the Ter-
ritory contain representatives of this order, which is
peculiar by reason of the self-flaj;ellations inflicted
by its members in their excess of pietistic zeal. Un-
like their ilk of India, they do not practice self tort-
ure for long periods, but only upon a certain day in
each year. Then, stripped to the waist, these poor
zealots go chanting a dolorous strain and beating
themselves unsparingly upon the back with the sharp-
spined cactus, or soap-weed, until they are a revolt-
ing sight to look upon. Often they sink from the
exhaustion of long-sustained sufTering and loss of
blood. Among the Penitential ceremonies is the
bearing a huge cross of heavy timber for long dis-
tances, amid the exhorting cries of onlookers. The
one who is adjudged to have punished himself most
severely is chosen chief of the performance for the
following year; and the honor does not want for
aspirants.
Attempts have been made to abolish this annual
demonstration, but without avail.
30
III.
ARIZONA.
HE portion to be traversed is a land of
- prodigious mountain-terraces, extensive
plateaus, profound canons, and flat arid
plains, dotted with gardens of fruits and
flowers, patched with vast tracts of pine timber and
veined with precious stones and metals, alternating
with desolate beds of lava, bald mountainous cones
of black and red volcanic cinder, grass-carpeted
parks, uncouth vegetable growths of the desert, and
bleak rock-spires, above all which white peaks gleam
radiantly in almost perpetual sunlight. The long-
time residents of this region are unable to shake off
its charm, even when no longer compelled by any
other consideration to remain. Its frequent wide
stretches of rugged horizon exert a fascination no
less powerful than that of arduous mountain-fast-
nesses or the secret shadows of the dense forest.
There is the same dignity of Nature, the same mys-
tery, potent even upon those who can least define its
thrall. Miners confess to it, and herdsmen. To
the traveler it will appear a novel environment for
contemporaneous American life, this land of sage
and mesquite, of frowning volcanic piles, shadowed
cafions, lofty mesas and painted buttes. It seems
fitter for some cyclopean race, for the pterodactyl
and the behemoth. Its cliffs are flung in broad sin-
uous lines that approach and recede from the way,
31
their contour incessantly shifting in the similitude of
f.ivcrns. corriilors, pyraniitls, nionunicnts, and a tliou-
s;ind other forms so full of structural idea thrysccm
to bo the unlinishcd work of some gi.uit architect
who had planned more than he could execute.
The altitude is practically the same as that of the
route through New Mexico, umluiating between
5,o<)0 and 7,<ioo feet above sea level, until on the
western border the hi^h plateaus break rapidly down
to an elevation of less than 500 feet at the valley of
a broad and capricious stream that flows through al-
ternate stretches of rich .dluvial meadow and barren
rock-spires — obelisks rising against the sky. This
stream is the Colorado River, wayward, strenuous,
and possessed of creative imagination and terrific
energies when the mood is on. It chiseled the
(jrand Caflon, far to the north and east, and now
complacently saunters oceanward. Despite its quiet
air, not long ago and at no small distance toward
ihc iuuih, it cunccivcd the whim to make a Salton
Sea, and the affair was a national sensation for many
months. The great cantilever bridge that spans it
32
i
here was made necessary by the restless spirit of the
intractable stream. Only a short time ago the cross-
ing was by means of a huge pile bridge a few miles
toward the north; but the river shifted its channel
so frequently it was thought desirable to build a
new bridge down here among the enduring obelisks
which are known as The Needles. It is a pictur-
esque spot, full of color, and the air has a pure
transparency that lends depth and distance to the
view, such as the bird knows in its flight. The
Needles form the head of the gorgeously beautiful
Mojave Cafion, hidden from view. The Colorado
is an inveterate lover of a chaotic channel. It is
its genius to create works of art on a scale to awe
the spirit of cataclysm itself. It is a true Helles-
pont, isiJuing from Cimmerian gloom to loiter among
sunny fields, which it periodically waters with a fer-
tilizing flood; and while you follow its gentle sweep
it breaks into sudden uproar and hews a further path
of desolation and sublimity. One who does not
know the canons of the Colorado has never experi-
enced the full exaltation of those impersonal emo-
tions to which the Arts are addressed. There only
are audience-halls fit for the tragedies of yEschylus,
for Dante and the Sagas.
The known history of Arizona begins with the
same Mark of Nice whom we have already accred-
ited as the discoverer of New Mexico, of which this
Territory was long a part; and here, as well, he was
followed by Coronado and the missionaries. This
is the true home of the Apache, whose unsparing
warfare repeatedly destroyed the work of early
Spanish civilization and won the land back for a
time to heathenesse. Its complete acquisition by
the United States dates from 1853, and in the early
days of the Civil War it was again devastated. After
its reoccupation by California troops in 1862, set
lirrs |io};.in ii> in-iu-tiaii' lis iinitiKTii portion. Nearly
^ ^ry twenty yrars later the tirst railroad sixmncd its bound-
/jv' arics, and then linally it became a tenable home
^/ / f>ir the Saxon, nlthouph the well-remenibered out-
^'vy break of Cicroninio occurred only six years apo. To-
day the war-thirsty Apaches arc widely scattered
amon^ distant reservations, and with them has de-
parted the last cxistinjj element of ilistuibance. But
Arizona will never lose its peculiar atmosphere of
extreme anti<iuity, for in addition to those over-
whelming chasms that have lain unchanged since
the infancy of the world, it contains within its bor-
ders the ruins of once populous cities, maintained by
an enormous irrigation system which our modern
science has not yet attempted to rival; whose history
was not written upon any lasting scroll; whose peo-
ples are classed among the undecipherable antiqui-
ties of our continent, their deeds unsung, their he-
roes unchronicled and unknown.
Yet, if you have a chord for the heroic, hardly
-hall you find another land so invigorating as this of
.Vrizona. It stiffens the mental fiber like a whifif of
the north wind. It stirs in the blood dim echoes of
days when achievement lay in the might of the indi-
vidual arm; when sword met targe in exhilarating
struggles for supremacy. The super-refinement of
cities dissipates here. There is a tonic breeze that
blows toward simple relations and a lusty selfhood.
CHALCEDONY PARK.
The town of Holbrook stands upon a gray tree-
dotted plain by the side of the Little Colorado
River, which at this point is a shallow, sluggish
flow, lost to sight here and there in the depths of
thirsty sands. This is the most convenient point
from which to visit the Chalcedony Park (which lies
at a distance of about twenty miles toward the
34
south), by reason of hotel accommodations and facil-
ities for local transportation. One-half the distance
can be saved by quitting the train between Billings
and Carrizo, at mile-post 233, and walking a mile to
Hanna's Ranch, where a team can be procured; but
this way of access is hardly practicable for the
transcontinental traveler incumbered with baggage.
The park, so called, is a tract of 2,000 acres thickly
strewn with chips, fragments, and even whole trunks,
of trees; the detritus of some prehistoric flood,
transformed by the sybaritic chemistry of nature
into chalcedony, topaz, onyx, carnelian, agate and
amethyst. It is a storehouse of precious gems,
measurable by no smaller phrase than millions of
tons; a confusion of splinters, twigs, limbs, seg-
ments and logs, every fragment of which would
adorn the collector's cabinet, and, polished by the
lapidary, would embellish a crown. Some of these
prostrate trees of stone are 150 feet in length and
10 feet in diameter, although generally broken into
sections by a clean transverse cleavage. One of
these huge trunks, its integrity still spared by time
and the hammer of the scientist, spans a canon
sixty feet wide; a bridge of jasper and agate, over-
hanging a tree-fringed pool; the realization of a
seer's rhapsody, squandered upon a desert far from
the habitations of man.
MOQUIS.
The reservation containing the Moqui villages —
fair white castles cresting the cliffs of a desert
waste — lies to the north of Winslow, farther away
than the average tourist will attempt to journey; but
the Moquis themselves may be seen about the sta-
tion named. Not uncomely, clad in picturesque
costume, and representative of the ever-interesting
Pueblo life, they merit more than passing mention.
35
^
^T; Willi tlicin a
lone survives the revolting but fascinat-
injj s|H-it;ulc of the snake-ihincc, that once was
common to ail the I'ucblo peoples. Upon the ques-
tion of l!ic viiulency of the rattlesnake's bite opin-
ions arc diverse. There are those who claim that
there is positively no antidote for the venom of a
licilthv full-jjrown reptile of that species, yet old
ranchmen will tell you stories of many a prompt
recovery from snake-bite by the virtue of a mysteri-
ous weed plucked by Indian or Mexican; and plain
whisky has its stanch advocates in this as in other
vicissitudes of human life. It is, however, certain
that the bite oicrotalits is often fatal, and is universally
dreaded except by the Moquis in the season of their
dance, at which time they handle their reptile deity
with the most audacious familiarity and without dan-
ger. The secret of the mysterious antidote used by
them is supposed to be known to only three of the
tribe, namely, the high priest, the neophyte who is in
training to inherit that office, and the eldest woman.
In the event of the death of any one of these three
it is imparted to a successor, and under any other
circumstances its betrayal is punishable by death.
Every year, three days before the great day of the
ceremony, the intending participants enter upon a
strict fast, which is not broken until the dance has
been conclude'd. In the intervening period the
secret decoction is freely administered by the venera-
ble medicine-man, and the dancers employ their leis-
ure in capturing rattlesnakes in the desert. Several
hundred of the hideous reptiles are thus collected
and imprisoned in a little corial. Upon the morning
of the fourth day, at the appointed hour, the dancers
boldly e'ter the corral, and seizing a snake in each
hand rush out to join in the mystic savage rite.
Unimpeachable authority vouches for the fact that
the rattlesnakes are not unfanged or in anywise
N 36
MOQUI HAIRDRESSER,
37
:5r>i92(>
^-»
ilcprivt'd of the exercise of their deatlly function.
On the contrary, the dancers arc repeatedly bitten as
tiiey twine the reptiles around tlieir necks and arms,
ami hold them in their mouths by the middle and
swing them to and fro. But the potency of the
antidote is such that only a slight irritation or small
local inflammation ensues, and the Moquis give no
more serious thought to the venomous caresses of
their squirming captives than they would give to the
sting of a gnat. At the conclusion of the dance the
snakes are reverently restored to freedom, having
been prevailed upon to use their influence with the
beneficent powers for the space of a whole year in
behalf of their dusky worshipers.
CASoN DIABLO.
This, the Devil Canon, is a profound gash in
the plateau, some 225 feet deep, 550 feet wide, and
many miles long. It has the appearance of a vol-
canic rent in the earth's crust, wedge-shaped, and
terraced in bare dun rock down to the thread of a
stream that trickles through the notch. It is one of
those inconsequent things which Arizona is fond of
displaying. For many miles you are bowled over
a perfectly level plain, and without any preparation
whatever, save only to slacken its pace, the train
38
crosses the chasm by a spider-web bridge and then
speeds again over the selfsame placid expanse. In
the darkness of night one might unsuspectingly step
off into its void, it is so entirely unlooked-for. Yet,
remarkable as is the Cafion Diablo, in comparison
with those grand gorges hereafter to be mentioned
it is worth little better than an idle glance through
the car-window in passing.
FLAGSTAFF.
Gateway to most remarkable ancient ruins, to one
of the most practicable and delightful of our great
mountains, and to the famous Grand Cafion of the
Colorado River, Flagstaff is itself pictorial in char-
acter and rich in interest. It stands upon a clearing
in an extensive pine forest that here covers the pla-
teau and clothes the mountains nearly to their peaks;
although the word park better describes this sunlit,
grass carpeted expanse of widely set towering pines,
where cattle graze and the horseman may gallop
at will. Couched at the foot of a noble mountain
that doffs its cap of snow for only a few weeks of the
year, and environed by vast resources of material
wealth in addition to its aggregation of spectacular
39
y J'
.m>l arili.Tolojjical features, its fame has already
spread widely over tlic world, and will increase with
time. Space can here be given to only its three most
celebrated possessions, but the visitor cannot hope
to exhaust the number and variety of its attractions.
There are woodlanil retreats where sculptured rocks
tower many hundred feet above the still surface of
pools; boxcafions where myriads of trout leap from
the waters of the stream that flows through depths
of shadow; thickets where the deer browses; plains
where the antelope still courses, and rocky slopes
where the bighorn still clambers and the mountain-
lion dozes in the sun.
SAN FRANCISCO MOUNTAIN.
Here, as in many other parts of the West, the act-
ual height of a mountain is greater than is apparent
to the eye. The ascent begins at a point consider-
ably above where the Eastern mountain-climber leaves
off, for the reason that the whole region is itself
a prodigious mountain, hundreds of thousands of
square miles in area, of which the projecting peaks
are but exalted lookouts. The four summits of
San Francisco Mountain are elevated nearly 13,000
feet above the sea, and only 6,000 feet above the town
of Flagstaff. It follows that more than half the actual
ascent has been made without any effort by the trav-
eler, and the same result is attained as if he had climbed
a sheer height of 13,000 feet upon the rim of the sea.
There is the same rarefaction of air, the same wide
range over an empire that lies flat beneath the eye,
limited only by the interposition of other mountains,
the spherical contour of the earth, atmospheric haze,
or the power of vision itself.
The apex of Humphrey's Peak, the only summit
of this mountain which is practicable for the tourist,
is little more than ten miles from Flagstaff, and an
40
excellent carriage -road covers fully seven miles of
that distance. From the end of that road a com-
fortable bridle-path leads to within a few feet of the
topmost crag. The entire trip may be made on
horseback if desired, and one who is accustomed to
the saddle will find it a preferable experience, for
then short cuts are taken through the timber, and
there is so much the more of freedom and the charm
of an untrammeled forest. The road crosses a short
stretch of clearing and then enters the magnificent
pine park, rising at an easy grade and offering fre-
quent backward glimpses. The strained, conscious
severity of the Rocky Mountain giants is wanting
here. It is a mountain without egotism, breathing
gentlest dignity and frankly fond of its robe of verd-
ure. Birds flit and carol in its treetops, and squir-
rels play. Grass and fern do not fear to make soft-
cushioned banks to allure the visitor, flowers riot in
their season, and the aspens have whole hillsides to
themselves; soft, twinkling bowers of delicate green,
dells where one could wish to lie and dream through
long summer hours. The bridle-path begins, with
the conventional zigzag of mountain-trails, at the
foot of a steep grass-grown terrace that lies in full
view of the spreading panorama below. Above that
sunny girdle the trail winds through a more typical
mountain-forest, where dead stalks of pine and fir
are plentifully sprinkled among the living, and ugly
swaths show where the avalanche has passed. Above
this, for the remaining few hundred feet, the peaks
stand bare — stern, swart crags that brook no mantle
except the snows, encompassed by a quiet which only
the wind redeems from everlasting silence.
The outlook from Humphrey's Peak is one of the
noblest of mountain-views. It commands a recog-
nizable territory of not less than seventy-five thou-
sand square miles, with vague shadowy contours be-
41
!» Y yt>nd the circle of definite vision. Categorically, as
Kk pointeil out by the guide, the main features of the
landscape are as follows: Directly north, the far-
I ther wall of the Grand Cailon, at the Bright Angel
Amphitheater, fifty miles away; and topping that, the
lUickskin Mountains of the Kaibab Plateau, thirty
or forty miles farther distant. To the right, the Na-
v.ijo Mountains, near the Colorado State line, 200
miles. In the northeast, the wonderful Painted Des-
ert, tinted with rainbow-hues, and the Navajo Res-
ervation. Below that, the Moqui buttes and villages.
Toward the east, the broad plateau and desert as far
as the divide near Navajo Springs, 130 miles east
from Flagstaff by the railroad. In the southeast, the
White Mountains, more than 200 miles. In the
south, successively, the Mogollon Plateau, a group of
a dozen lakes — unlooked-for sight in the arid lands
— Baker's Butte, the Four Peaks, and the Supersti-
tion Mountains near Phoenix, the last named 160
miles distant. In the southwest, the Bradshaw
Mountains, 140 miles; Granite Mountain, at Pres-
cott, 100 miles, and the Juniper Range, 150 miles.
The horizon directly west is vague and doubtful,
but is believed to lie near the California line. In the
northwest a distant ran^je is seen, north of the Colo-
rado River and east of the Nevada line, perhaps the
Sheavwits or the Hurricane Mountains. Among
the less remote objects are the Coconino forest and
basin on the north; on the east the Little Colorado,
traceable by its fringe of cottonwoods, beds of lava
flung like the shadow of a cloud or the trail of a
conflagration, and Sunset and Peachblow craters,
black cones of cinder capped with red scoria; on the
south and southwest Oak Creek Canon, the Jerome
smelters, and the rugged pictorial breakdown of the
Verde, and, under foot. Flagstaff; and on the west
42
the peaks of Bill Williams, Sitgreaves, and Ken-
dricks, neighborly near.
Yet, in spite of the grandeur of such a scene, San
Francisco Mountain itself soon gains and monopo-
lizes the attention. It has slopes that bend in a
single sweeping curve to depths which the brain
reels to contemplate, down which a loosened stone
will spin until the eye can no longer distinguish its
course; and there are huge folds and precipices and
abysses of which no hint was given in the ascent.
There is, too, a small glacier. Perhaps its most at-
tractive single feature is a profound bowl-shaped
cavity between Humphrey and Agassiz peaks, over-
hung by strangely sculptured cliffs that have the ap-
pearance of ruined castle-walls perforated with rude
doorways, windows, and loopholes. It is called The
Crater, and is almost completely boxed in by steep
but uniform slopes of volcanic sand, in descending
which a horse sinks to his fetlocks. On the side
toward the north it breaks down into a canon lead-
ing off to the plain and set with tree, grass, fern and
flower. Its axis is marked by two parallel lines of
bare bowlders of great size, that seem to have been
thrown up from the underlying rock by some prodig-
ious ebullition of internal forces.
This mountain has always been regarded as a
mass of lava heaped upon the plain around volcanic
vents. Recent prospectors now claim it to be com-
posed of gray and red granite and pure white lime-
stone, diked with porphyry, and capped with meta-
morphosed rocks and lava. Many mining-claims
have within a short time been located upon it, and
the outcroppings are reported to contain free milling-
gold ore of low grade.
The round trip to the peak is customarily made in
a day, but arrangements may be made to remain
upon the mountain over night if determined upon in
43
,r*#
advance, and such a plan is recommended to those
who have never seen the glories of sunset and sunrise
from a mountain-hcijjht. Among the mountains of
America there is hardly another that at the cost of so
little hardship yields so rich a reward.
GRAND CANON OF THE COLORADO.
The series of tremendous chasms which form the
channel of the Colorado River in its course through
Northern Arizona reach their culmination in a cha-
otic gorge 217 miles long, from 9 to 13 miles wide,
and, midway, more than 6,600 feet below the level
of the plateau. Standing upon the brink of that
plateau, at the point of the canon's greatest width
and depth, the beholder is confronted by a scene
whose majesty and beautv are well-nigh unbearable.
Snatc' in a single glance from every accustomed
anchorage of human experience, the stoutest heart
here quavers, the senses cower. It is the only known
spot which one need not fear approaching with an-
ticipations too exalted. It is a new world, compel-
44
ling the tribute of sensations whose intensity exceeds
tiu- familiar sijjnilication of words. If you say of
Niagara's gorjjc that it is profound, what shall you
say of the Colorado's chasm that yawns beneath your
feet to a depth nearly hfty times greater? If you
iiave looked down from the heigiitof the Eiffel tower
and called it vertiginous, what shall you say when
you are brought to the verge of a gulf at points of
which you may drop a plummet five times as far?
And when you face, not a mere narrow frowning
gash of extraordinary depth, but a broad underworld
that reaches to the uttermost horizon and seems as
vast as the earth itself; studded with innumerable
pyramidal mountains of massive bulk hewn from
gaudiest rock-strata, that barely lift the cones and
turrets of their crests to the level of the eye; divided
by purple voids; banded in vivid colors of transpar-
ent brilliancy that are harmonized by atmosphere
and refraction to a marvelous delicacy ; controlled
by a unity of idea that redeems the whole from the
menace of overwhelming chaos — then the pen halts
in undertaking its description.
Some attempt, however, has been made in ''The
Grand Canon of the Colorado " to which the reader
who can not avail of the magnificent volumes of
Powell and Button, and desires a more intimate
knowledge than can be derived from the graceful
and eloquent pages devoted to the subject in Warn-
er's " Our Italy," is referred.
The Grand Caiion is sixty-five miles distant from
Flagstaff, by a nearly level road, through a region
that presents in turn nearly all the characteristic
features of Arizona. Except in the winter months,
at which time the journey can be undertaken only
when weather and roads are favorable, a tri-weekly
stage makes the trip to the cafion in about twelve
stop for dinner midway. Passengers
46
quit the stage upon the very rim of the canon, at the
most impressive point, and so long as they may
choose to remain are provided with comfortable
lodgings and excellent meals.
CLIFF AND CAVE DWELLINGS.
This region abounds in scattered ruins of the
dwellings of a prehistoric people. The most impor-
tant yet discovered lie within a radius of eight miles
from Flagstaff, and are easily accessible.
On the southeast, Walnut Cafion breaks the pla-
teau for a distance of several miles, its walls deeply
eroded in horizontal parallel lines. In these nat-
ural recesses, floored and roofed by the more endur-
ing strata, the cliff-dwellings are found in great
number, walled up on the front and sides with rock
fragments and cement, and partitioned into com-
partments. Some have fallen into decay, only por-
tions of their walls remaining, and but a narrow
shelf of the once broad floor of solid rock left to evi-
dence their extreme antiquity. Others are almost
wholly intact, having stubbornly resisted the weath-
ering of time. Nothing but fragments of pottery
now remain of the many quaint implements and
trinkets that characterized these dwellings at the
time of their discovery and have since been exhumed
by scientist and collector. At least, nothing of value
is supposed to remain about those that are commonly
visited. Many others, more difficult toe.xplore, may
yet yield a store of archaeological treasure.
Fixed like swallows' nests upon the face of a preci-
pice, approachable from above or below only by de-
liberate and cautious climbing, these dwellings have
the appearance of fortified retreats lather than habit-
ual abodes. That there was a time, in the remote
past, when warlike peoples of mysterious origin
passed southward over this plateau is generally cred-
47
itfd. Ami tlic existence of the cliff-dwellings is
ascribed to the exigencies of that dark period, when
the inhabitants of the plateau, unable to cope with
the superior energy, intelligence and numbers of the
descending hordes, devised these unassailable re-
treats. All their quaintness and antiquity cannot
conceal the deep pathos of their being, for tragedy
is written all over these poor hovels hung between
earth and sky. Their builders hold no smallest niche
in recorded history. Their aspirations, their strug-
gles and their fate are all unwritten, save on these
crumbling stones, which are their sole monument and
meager epitaph. Here once they dwelt. They left
no other print on Time.
At an equal distance to the north of Flagstaff,
among the cinder-buried cones, is one whose sum-
mit commands a wide-sweeping view of the plain.
Upon its ape.x, in the innumerable spout-holes that
were the outlet of ancient eruptions, are the cave-
dwellings, around many of which rude stone-walls
still stand. The story of these habitations is like-
wise wholly conjectural. They may have been con-
temporary with the clifl-dwellings. That they were
long inhabited is clearly apparent. Fragments of
shattered pottery lie on every hand.
CENTRAL AND SOUTHERN ARIZONA.
From Ash Fork, west of Flagstaff, the Santa Fe,
Prescott & Phoeni.x Railroad extends southward over
an elevated region commanding wide views, through
canons and valleys of great beauty, and past some
of the largest copper-mines in the United States, for
sixty miles, to Prescott. This city is to the northern
half of Arizona what Denver is to the State of Colo-
rado: a distributing and shipping point for a large
surrounding country in which mining is the greatest
activity, with horticultural interests rapidly develop-
ing in pace with facilities for irrigation.
48
In the winter of 1893 this railroad will have
reached Phoenix, the capital, which is located in the
Salt River Valley, 140 miles beyond Prescott — a mag-
nificent level floor, walled in by mountains, and con-
taining a million acres of irrigable lands. Here, in
a climate where snow is unknown, nearly every va-
riety of fruit and nut, except those that are absolutely
restricted to the tropics, is grown in extraordinary
profusion, in addition to the ordinary cereals and
vegetables of the North Temperate Zone. The list is
long, and includes grapes, quinces, apricots, peaches,
nectarines, pears, plums, prunes, pomegranates,
loquats, guavas, Japanese persimmons, figs, oranges,
lemons, olives, dates, peanuts, almonds and pecans.
The neighborhood of Prescott yields vast quantities
of copper, and not a little gold. There are, among
other famous deposits, the United Verde copper-mines
and the Congress and Rich Hill gold-mines; the last-
named situated upon an isolated peak, where in the
early days free gold was literally whittled from the
rock with knives and chisels. Nowhere has nature
been more lavish of her treasures, and while yet the
store of precious metal has barely been explored, the
smaller alluvial valleys, and that vast one around
Phoenix, have become widely known for the produc-
tion of multifarious fruits which ripen several weeks
in advance of those of California.
Hitherto the only facile communication between
the Salt River Valley and the outside world has been
by a roundabout way through the South. Here-
after there will be a direct thoroughfare by way of
Ash Fork, both for tourists and for exportation of
the phenomenal products of the region.
49
yc.T. Co,-..
IV.
SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA.
r^^^^J^ I'KW miles beyond the Colorado River
Zw^^C ♦crossing at The Needles is the railroad
fk (^.^ station of that name, where the remnant
of the once powerful and warlike Mojave
tribe, now become beggarly hangers-on to civiliza-
tion, love to congregate and offer inferior wares in
the shape of bows and arrows and pottery trinkets to
travelers in exchange for coin. Their hovels are
scattered along the wayside, and the eager congre-
gation of women peddlers, some with naked babies
sitting stoically astride their hips, and all dubiously
picturesque in paint and rags, is sufficiently divert-
ing. The men attain gigantic stature, and are famed
for their speed and bottom as runners; but their abil-
ity might be fairly taxed by the tourist of average ca-
pacity who for any cause felt himself in danger of
being compelled to share their abode or mingle inti-
mately with them. A sound-heeled Achilles would
fall behind in pursuit of the fleer from such a sorry
fate.
But this is California, the much-lauded land of fruit
and flower and sunny clime, of mountain and shore
and sea-girt isle; land of paradoxes, where winter is the
season of bloom and fruitage and summer is nature's
time of slumber. The traveler enters it for the first
time with a vivid preconception of its splendors.
50
By way of introduction you are borne across the
most sterile portion of tiie most liopeless waste in
America, wliose monotony intercepts every approach
to California except that roundabout one by way of
the sea. But here you are screened by night, and
will know nothing of its terrors except as they are
told you. On every hand lies a drear stretch of sand
and alkali, a Nubian desert unmarked by a single hu-
man habitation outside the lonely path of the loco-
motive; where not even the cry of a wolf breaks the
grim silence of desolation. Through this the train
hastens to a more elevated country, arid still, but re-
lieved by rugged rocks, the esthetic gnarled trunks
and bolls of the yucca and occasional growths of de-
ciduous trees. You enter the Cajon Pass.
Did not the journey include a return through Col-
orado, where much must be said of the grandeur of
distinctive mountain scenery, Cajon Pass would bear
extended mention. It is the loveliest imaginable
scene, a gently billowing mountain-flank densely set
with thickets of manzanita, through whose glossy
green foliage and red stems the pale earth gleams,
rising here and there in graceful dunes of white un-
flecked by grass or shrub, and overhung by parallel
terraced ridges of the San Bernardino Mountains,
that pale in turn to a topmost height far in the blue
Italian sky. Entirely wanting in the austerity that
characterizes the grander mountains of loftier alti-
tudes, it takes you from the keeping of plateau and
desert and by seductive windings leads you down to
the garden of California. Typical scenes at once ap-
pear. On either hand are seen orchards, of the peach,
apricot, prune, olive, fig, almond, walnut, and that
always eagerly anticipated one of the orange.
You will not, however, find this whole land a jungle
of orange and palm trees, parted only by thick banks
of flowers. The world is wide, even in California, or
51
one might better say parficulany Jn California, where
over an arta averaging 150 miles wide and 1,000
miles long is scattered a I'-opulation no greater than
that of the city of Chicago. It is true that at River
side orange-trees do grow tiirough the station plat-
form, and at many places along your route you may
almo! t pluck the golden fruit from the car-window in
passing; but the celebrated products of California lie
in restricted areas of cultivation, which you are ex-
I>ectcd to visit; and herein lies much of the Califor-
nian's pride, that there still remains so much of op-
portunity for all. There is everything in California
that has been credited to it, but what proves not un-
commonly a surprise is the relatively small area of
improved land and the consequent frequency of un-
fructed intervals. Only a moment's reflection is need-
ed to perceive that the case could not be otherwise.
As for flowers, even here they are not eternal, except
in the thousands of watered gardens. In the dry
summer season the hills turn brown and sleep. Only
when the winter rains have slaked the parched earth
do the grass and flowers awake, and then for a few
months there is a enough of bloom and fragrance to
satisfy the most exuberant fancy.
Now past pretty horticultural communities, flanked
by the Sierra Madre, the way leads quickly from San
Bernardino to Pasadena and Los Angelts.
From the last-named city you pass through a fruit-
ful region, and within a stone's-throw of the impres-
sive mission-ruins of Capistrano, to a shore where
the long waves of the Pacific break upon gleaming
white sands and the air is of the sea. Blue as the
sky is the Pacific, paling in the shallows toward land,
and flecked with bright or somber cloud-reflections
and smurring ripples of the breeze. It is not only
the westerly bound of the North American Continent,
it is the South Seas of old adventure, where many a
52
hulk of once treasure-laden galleons lies fathoms deep
among the queer denizens of the sea who repeat wild
legends of naughty buccaneers. There is challenge
to the imagination in the very tracklessness of the
sea. On the wrinkled face of earth you may read
earth's story. She has laid things to heart. She
broods on memories. But the sea denies the past; it
is as heedless of events that were as the air is of the
path where yesterday a butterfly was winging. Its
incontinent expanse is alluring to the fancy, and
this sunset sea even more than the tempestuous ocean
that beats upon our eastern shores, for it is so lately
become our possession it seems still a foreign thing,
strewn with almost as many wrecks of Spanish hopes
as of galleons; and into its broad bosom the sun
sinks to rise upon quaint antipodean peoples, beyond
a thousand mysterious inhabited islands in the swirls
of the equatorial currents.
Next, swinging inland to find the pass of the last
intervening hills, you make a final descent to the
water's edge, and come to San Diego, that dreamy
city of Mediterranean atmosphere and color, terraced
along the rim of a sheltered bay of surpassing beau-
ty. Guarding the mouth of the harbor lies the long
crescent peninsular of Coronado, the pale facades of
whose mammoth hotel flash through tropical vege-
tation across the blue intervening waters.
^~:3ss
OF CLIMATE.
Here the sun habitually shines. Near the coast
flows the broad equable Japanese ocean-current, from
R^hich a tempered breeze sweeps overland every morn-
ing, every night to return from the cool mountain-
tops. Between the first of May and the last of Octo-
ber rain almost never falls. By the end of June the
earth has evaporated most of its surface-moisture, and
vegetation unsustained by artificial watering begins
53
to tanjuish. The midday temperature now rises,
but the same breeze swings like a pendulum between
ocean and mountain, and night and early morning
arc no less invigorating. This is summer, a joyous
and active season generally misconceived by the tour-
ist, who not unreasonably visits California in the win-
ter-time to cstxipe Northern cold and snow, and in-
fers an unendurable torrid summer from a winter of
mildness and luxuriance.
With November the first showers generally begin,
followed by an occasional heavy downpour, and North-
ern pastures now whiten under falling snow hardly
faster than do these sere hills turn beryl-green. The
rainy season is so called not because it is characterized
by continuous rainfall, but to distinguish it from that
portion of the year in which rain cannot be looked
for. Bright days are still the rule, and showery days
are marked by transcendent beauties of earth and
sky, fleeting wonders of form and color. Let the
morning open with a murky zenith, dark tumbled
cloud -masses dropping shower. As the invisible sun
mounts, he peeps unexpectedly through a rift to see
that his world is safe, then vanishes. The sky has
an unrelenting look. The mountains are obscured.
Suddenly, far to the left, a rift breaks dazzling white,
just short of where the rain is falling on the hills in
a long bending column, and at one side a broad patch
pales into mottled gray ; and below the rift a light mist
is seen floating on the flank of a mountain that shoots
into sharp relief against a vapor-wall of slate. At
the mountain's foot a whole hillside shows in warm
brown tint, its right edge merged in a low flat cloud
of silver, born, you could aver, on the instant, from
which the truncated base of a second mountain de-
pends, blue as indigo. The face of earth, washed
newly, is a patchwork of somber and gaudy trans-
parent colors: yellows, greens, sepias, grays. One's
54
range and clearness of vision are quickly expanded, as
wlieu a Iclcscopc is titled to the eye. Now begins a
wiMidcrf id shilling of light and shadow ; pcejis through
a curtain that veils unbearable splendors of upper
sky; grailual dissolutions of cloud into curls and
twists and splashes, with filling of blue between.
Again the sun appears, at first with a pale burnished
light, Hashing and fading irresolutely until at length
it flames out with summer ardor. The clouds break
into still more curious forms, into pictures and
images of quaint device, and outside the wide circle
of brilliant sunlight all the hills are in purple shadow,
fading into steel-blue, and about their crests cling
wisps of many-colored fleece. Here and there a dis-
tant peak is blackly hooded, or gleams subtly behind
an intervening shower — a thin transparent wash of
smoky hue. The veil quickly dissipates, and at the
same instant the peak is robbed of its sunlight by
billows of vapor that marshal in appalling magnifi-
cence. Then the rain-mist advances and hides the
whole from view. A strip of green ne.xt flashes on
the sight, a distant field lighted by the sun, but lying
unaccountably beneath a cloud of black. Beyond,
the broad foot of a rainbow winks and disappears.
Among all the hilltops rain next begins to fall like
amber smoke, so thin is the veil that shields them
from the sun. Then the sun abruptly ceases to
shine, the whole heavens are overcast, and between
the fine fast-falling drops the ground gleams wet in
cool gray light. By noon the sun again is shining
clear, although in occasional caflons there is night
and deluge, and at the close of a bright afternoon
the farthest, loftiest peak has a white cloud wreath
around it, as symmetrical as a smoke-ring breathed
from the lips of a sefiorita ; and out of the middle of
it rises the fragment of a rainbow — a cockade on a
56
mist- laureled Matterhorn. Then the sun drops, and
the day is done.
That is the way it rains in California, and between
such days are unclouded intervals of considerable
duration. They call this season winter. The tem-
perature is so finely balanced one does not easily
decide whether to walk upon the sunny or the shady
side of the street. It is cool; not cold, not bracing
in the ordinary sense, but just the proper tempera-
ture for continuous out-of-door life. June does not
define it, nor September. It has no synonym. But
if you cared to add one more to the many unsuccess-
ful attempts to define it in a phrase, you might term
it constant delicious weather; to-day, to-morrow,
and indefinitely in the future, morally certain to be
very much as you would have it if you were to create
an air and a sky exactly to suit his or her majesty
yourself. But even here man is a clothes-wearing
anim.al. There is a coolness pervading the most
brilliant sunshine. Remembering this, the most ap-
prehensive person will soon discover that there is no
menace in the dry, pure and gently invigorating air
of the Southern California winter. It wins the inva-
lid to health by enticing him to remain out-of-doors.
Ranging from warm sea-level to peaks of frigid in-
clemency, this varied state offers many climatic grada-
tions, whose contrasts are nearly always in view. In
winter you may sit upon almost any veranda in South-
ern California and lift your eyes from the brilliant
green of ornamental trees and shrubs, from orchards
where fruits ripen in heavy clusters, and from the
variegated bloom of gardens, to ragged horizon-lines
buried deep in snow. There above is a frozen waste,
an Alpine terror. Here below is summer, shorn of
summer languor. And between may be found any
modification that could reasonably be sought, each
steadfast in its own characteristics.
57
The smallest of these communities is great in con-
tent. Literally couched beneath his own vine and
tiij-tree, plucking from friendly boughs deUcious
fruits, finding in the multifarious products of the
soil nearly everything needful in domestic economy,
and free from most of the ills that flesh was thought
to be heir to, what wonder that the Californian envies
no man, nor ever looks wistfully over the sierra's
crest toward the crowded cities and precarious farm-
ing regions of the East? An uplifting environment
for a home, truly, fit to breed a race worthy of the
noblest empire among the States. There is work to
be done, in the house and the field, but in such an
air and scene it is as near a transfiguration of labor
as can well be imagined. Here it is indeed a poor
boy or girl who has not a pony on which to scamper
58
about, or lacks liberty for such enjoyment. And
every year there comes a period of holiday, an inter-
val when there is no planting or harvesting to be
done, no picking or drying or packing of fruit, a
recuperating spell of nature, when the weather is just
as glorious as ever, and the mountains and ocean
beckon seductively to the poet that is in the heart of
every unharassed man and woman and child. Then
for weeks the canons are dotted with tents, where the
mountain-torrent foams and spreading sycamores
are festooned with mistletoe; and the trout of the
stream and the game of the forest have their solstice
of woe. Or, on the rim of the sea, thousands of
merry hearts, both young and old, congregate and
hold high carnival. When the campers return to
shop and field it is not by reason of any inclemency
of weather, but because their term of holiday has ex-
pired. Then come the tourists, and pale fugitives
from the buffets of Boreas, to wander happily over
hillside and shore in a land unvexed by the tyranny
of the seasons.
The most seductive of lands, and the most tena-
cious in its hold upon you. You have done but little,
and a day has fled; have idled, walked, ridden, sailed
a little, have seen two or three of the thousand things
to be seen, and a week, a month, is gone. You
could grieve that such golden burdenless hours should
ever go into the past, did they not flow from an in-
exhaustible fount. For to be out all day in the care-
less freedom of perfect weather; to ramble over ruins
of a former occupation; to wander through gardens
and orchards; to fish, to shoot, to gather flowers
from the blossoming hillslopes; to explore a hundred
fascinating retreats of mountain and shore; to lounge
on the sands by the surf until the sun drops into the
sea; all this is permitted by the Southern California
winter.
59
SAN DIEGO AND VICINITY.
Fringing a bay that for a dozen miles glows like a
golden mirror below its purple rim, San Diego stands
upon a slope that rises from the water to the summit
of a broad mesa. In front the bold promontory of
Point Loma juts into the sea, overlapping the low
slender peninsular of Coronado, and between them
lies the narrow entrance to this most beautiful of
harbors. One may be happy in San Diego and do
nothing. Its soft sensuous beauty and caressing air
create in the breast a new sense of the joy of mere
existence. But there is, besides, abundant material
for the sight-seer. Here, with many, begins the first
leisurely and intimate acquaintance with those objects
of unfailing interest, the growing orange and lemon.
Orchards are on every hand; not in the profusion that
characterizes some of the more extensively developed
localities, but still abundant, and inferior to none in
fruitage. Paradise Valley, the Valley of the Sweet-
water, where may be seen the great inigaling-fount
of so many farms, and Mission Valley, where the San
Diego River flows and the dismantled ruin of the
oldest California mission, elbowed by a modern In-
dian school, watches over its ancient but still vigorous
trees, afford the most impressive examples of these
growing fruits in the immediate neighborhood. El
Cajon Valley is celebrated for its vineyards. At Na-
tional City, four miles away, are extensive olive-
orchards. Fifteen miles to the south the Mexican
village of Tia Juana attracts many visitors, whose
average experience consists of a pleasant railroad-ride
to the border and a half-hour's residence in a foreign
country; but the noble coast scenery of Point of
Rocks, the boundary monument, and remarkable hot
sulphur springs are reached by a short and attractive
drive from that little Lower California town.
6i
The diverse allurements of mountain and valley,
anil northward-stretching shore of alternating bt-ach
ami hijjii ronunanding blulT, are innumerable, but
the calalojjue of tiicir names does not fall within the
province of these pages. One marvelous bit of coast,
thirteen miles away and easily reached by railway or
carriage-drive, must however have specific mention.
It is l.a JoUa I'ark. Here a plateau overlooks the open
sea from a bluff that tumbles precipitously to a nar-
row strip of sand. The face of the cliff for a dis-
tance of several miles has been sculptured by the
waves into most curious forms. It projects in rect-
angular blocks, in stumps, stools, benches, and bas-
reliefs that strikingly resemble natural objects, their
surfaces chiseled intaglio with almost intelligible de-
vices. Loosened fragments have worn deep sym-
metrical wells, or pot-holes, to which the somewhat
inadequate Spanish-Indian name of the place is due;
and what seem at first glance to be enormous bowlders
loosely piled, with spacious interstices through which
the foam spurts and crashes, are the selfsame solid
clifT, carved and polished, but not wholly separated
by the sea. Some of the cavities are mere pockets
lined with mussels and minute weeds with calcareous
leaves. Others are commodious secluded apart-
ments, quite commonly used as dressing-rooms by
bathers. The real caverns can be entered dry-shod
only at lowest tide. The cliff where they lie is
gnawed into columns, arches and aisles, through
which one cave after another may be seen, dimly
lighted, dry and practicable. Seventy five feet is
probably their utmost depth. They are the culmi-
nation of this extraordinary work of an insensate
sculptor. There are alcove-niches, friezes of small
gray and black mosaic, horizontal bands of red, and
high-vaulted roofs. If the native California Indians
had possessed a poetic temperament they must cer-
62
tainly have performed religious rites in such a temple.
It would have been a godsend to the Druids. The
water is as pellucid as a mountain-spring. The flush
of the waves foams dazzling white and pours through
the intricacies of countless channels, tunnels and
fissures in overwhelming torrents, and in the brief
intervals between ebb and rise the bottom of rock
and clean sand gleams invitingly through a depth of
many feet. Sea-anemones are thickly clustered upon
the lower levels, their tinted petal-filaments scintil-
lating in the shallow element, or closed bud-like
while waiting for the flood. Little crabs scamper in
disorderly procession through the crevices at your
approach, and that univalve with the ornamental
shell, known everywhere as the abalone, is also
abundant. Seaweeds, trailing in and out with the
movement of the tide, flame through the transparent
water in twenty shades of green, and schools of gold-
fish flash in the swirling current, distorted by the
varying density of the eddies into great blotches of
brilliant color, unquenchable firebrands darting hither
and yon in their play. They are not the true gold-
fish whose habitat is a globular glass half-filled with
tepid water, but their hue is every whit as vivid. In
the time of flowers this whole plateau is covered with
odorous bloom.
63
Then there is Coronado. Connected by ferry and by
railroad with the mainland, Coronado bears the same
relation to San Diego that fashionable suburbs bear
to many Kastern cities, and at the same time affords
recreative pleasures which the inhabitants of those
suburbs must go far to seek. Here the business-man
dwells in Elysian bowers by the sea, screened from
every reminder of business cares, yet barely a mile
distant from office or shop. Locking up in his desk
at evening all the prosaic details of bank or factoiy,
of railroad-rates, of the price of stocks and real es-
tate and wares, in ten minutes he is at home on what
is in effect a South Sea island, where brant and
curlew and pelican fly, and not all the myriad dwell-
ings and the pomp of their one architectural splen-
dor can disturb the air of perfect restfulness and
sweet rusticity. From the low ridge of the narrow
peninsular may be seen, upon the one liand, a wide-
sweeping mountainous arc, dipping to the pretty city
that borders the bay. Upon the other, the unob-
structed ocean rolls. Upon the ocean side, just be-
yond reach of the waves, stands the hotel whose
magnificence has given it leading rank among the
famous hostelries of the world. It is built around a
quadrangular court, ox patio — a dense garden of rare
shrubs and flowering plants more than an acre in ex-
tent. Upon this/a^/i? many sleeping rooms open by
way of the circumjacent balcony, besides fronting
upon ocean and bay, and a glass-covered veranda,
extending nearly the entire length of the western
frontage, looks over the sea toward the peaks of the
distant Coronado Islands. On the north lies Point
Loma and the harbor-entrance, on the east San Diego
Bay and city, and on the south Glorietta Bay and
the mountains of Mexico, beyond a broad half-circle
of lawn dotted with semi-tropical trees and bright
beds of flowers, and bordered by hedges of cypress.
64
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m.^'/'^
U^^/ii^
66
Here the fisherman has choice of surf or billow
or the still surface of sheltered waters ; of sailboat,
skiff or iron pier. The gunner finds no lack of
sea-fowl, quail or rabbits. The bather may choose
between surf and huge tanks of salt-water, roofed
with glass, fringed with flowers, and fitted with de-
vices to enhance his sport. The sight-seer is pro-
vided with a score of special local attractions, and
all the resources of the mainland are at elbow.
These diversions are the advantage of geographical
location, independent of the social recreations one
naturally finds in fashionable resorts, at hotels liber-
ally managed and frequented by representatives of
the leisure class.
The climate of the coast is necessarily distin-
guished from that of the interior by greater humid-
ity, and the percentage of invisible mois.ure i i the
air, however small, must infallibly be greater at Cor-
onado than upon the Heights of San Diego, and
greater in San Diego than at points farther removed
Irom the sea. This is the clue to the only flaw in
the otherwise perfect coast climate, and it is a flaw
only to supersensitive persons, invalids of a certain
class. The consumptive too often delays taking
advantage of the benefits of climatic change until
he has reached a point when nicest discrimination
has become necessary. The purest, driest and
most rarefied air compatible with the complications
of disease is his remedy, if remedy e.xist for him.
And the driest and most rarefied air is not to be
looked for by the sea. Yet tlie difference is not
great enough to be brusquely prohibitory. No one
need fear to go to the coast, and a shoit stay will
determine whether or no the relief that is sought
can there be found; while for many derangements it
is preferable to the interior. I'"or him who is not in
precarious condition the foregoing observations have
67
.,^'
no sipnificnnce. He will find the climate of all
SoiUlKin California u mere gradation of glory. Hut
jK-rhaps around San Diego, and at one or two other
coast points, there will seem to be a spirit even s:en-
tler than that which rules the hills.
.^^^yz^f^'m
CAPISTRANO.
A tiny quaint village in a fertile valley that slopes
from a mountain-wall to the sea, unkempt and mon-
grel, a jumble of adobe-ruins, whitewashed hovels
and low semi-modern structures, straggling like a
moraine from the massive ruin of the Mission San
Juan Capistrano. The mission dominates the val-
ley. Go where you will, the eye turns to this co-
lossal fragment, a forlorn but vital thing; broken,
crushed, and yet undying. Swarthy faces are min-
gled with the pale Saxon type, the music of the
Spanish tongue is heard wherever you hear human
speech, and from behind the lattices of the adobes
come the tinkle of guitars and the cadence of soft
voices in plaintive rhythm. The sun makes black
shadows by every house and tree, and sweeps in
broad unbroken light over the undulating hills to
hazy mountain-tops; ground-squirrels scamper across
the way, wild doves start up with whistling wings,
and there is song of birds and cry of barnyard fowls.
68
The essence of the scene is passing quiet and peace.
The petty noises of the village are powerless to break
the silence that enwraps the noble ruin; its dignity
is as imperturbable as that of mountain and sea.
Never was style of architecture more spontaneously
in touch with its environment than that followed by
the mission-builders. It is rhythm and cadence and
rhyme. It is perfect art. Earthquake has rent, man
has despoiled, time has renounced the Mission San
Juan Capistrano, yet its pure nobility survives, in-
destructible. The tower is fallen, the sanctuary is
bare and weather-beaten, the cloisters of the quad-
rangle are roofless, and the bones of forgotten pa-
dres lie beneath the roots of tangled shrubbery; but
the bells still hang in their rawhide lashings, and
the cross rises white against the sky. A contemptu-
ous century has rolled past, and the whole ambitious
and once promising dream of monkish rule has long
since ended, but this slow-crumbling structure will
not have it so. Like some dethroned and superan-
nuated king, whose insistent claim to royal function
cloaks him with a certain grandeur, it sits in silent
state, too venerable for disrespect and too august for
pity.
69
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STORY OF THK MISSIONS.
In the miildle of the eighteenth century the Span-
ish throne, desiring to encourage colonization of its
territory of Upper California, then unpeopled save
by native Indian tribes, entered into an arrangement
with the Order of St. Francis, by virtue of which
that order undertook to establish missions in the
new country which were to be the nuclei of future
villages and cities, to which Spani h subjects were
encouraged to emigrate. By the terms of that ar-
rangement the Franciscans were to possess the mis-
sion properties and their revenues for ten years,
which was deemed a sufficient period in which to
fairly establish the colonies, when the entire prop
erty was to revert to the Spanish government. In
point of fact the Franciscans were left in undisputed
possession for more than half a century.
The monk chosen to tak; charge of the undertak-
ing was Junipero Serra, a man of saintly piety and
energetic character, who in childhood desired only
70
that he might be a priest, and in maturity earnestly
wishcil to l)c a martyr. Seven years before the De-
claration of the Independence of the American Colo-
nies, in the early summer of 17^)9, he entered the
bay of San Diejjo, 227 years after Cabrillo had dis-
covered it for Spain, antl 167 years after it had been
surveyed and named by Viscaino, during all which
preceding time the countrj' had lain fallow. Within
two months Serra had founded a mission near the
mouth of the San Diego River, which five years after
was removed some six miles up the valley to a point
about three miles distant from the present city of
San Diego. From that time one mission after an-
other was founded, twenty-one in all, from San Diego
along the coast as far north as San Francisco. The
more important of these were built of stone and a
hard-burnt brick that even now will turn the edge of
the finest trowel. The labor of their construction
was appalling. Brick had to be burnt, stone quar-
ried and dressed, and huge timbers for rafters
brought on men's shoulders from the mountain for-
ests, sometimes thirty miles distant, through rocky
canons and over trackless hills. The Indians per-
formed most of this labor, under direction of the
fathers. These Indians were tractable, as a rule.
Once, or twice at most, they rose against their
masters, but the policy of the padres was kind-
ness and forgiveness, although it must be inferred
that the condition of the Indians over whom they
claimed spiritual and temporal authority was a form
of slaver)', without all the cruelties that usually pertain
to enforced servitude. They were the bondsmen of
the padres, whose aim was to convert them to Chris-
tianity and civilization, and many thousands of them
were persuaded to cluster around the missions, their
daughters becoming neophytes in the convents, and
72
^1'- • -^t
the others contributing their labor to the erection of
the enormous structures that occupied many acres of
ground, and to the industries of agricuhure, cattle-
raising, and a variety of manufactures. There were,
after the primitive fashion of the time, woolen mills,
wood working and blacksmith shops, and such other
manufactories as were practicable in the existing
state of the arts, which could be made profitable.
The mission properties soon became enormously
valuable, their yearly revenues sometimes amounting
to $2,000,000. The exportation of hides was one
of the most important items, and merchant-vessels
from our own Atlantic seaboard, from England and
from Spain, sailed to the California coast for car-
goes of that commodity. Dana's romantic and
universally read "Two Years Before the Mast" is
the record of such a voyage. He visited California
more than half a century ago, and found its quaint
Spanish-Indian life full of the picturesque and ro-
mantic.
The padres invariably selected a site favorable for
defense, commanding views of entrancing scenery,
on the slopes of the most fertile valleys and conven-
ient to the running water which was the safeguard
of agriculture in a country of sparse and uncertain
rainfall. The Indians, less warlike in nature than
the roving tribes east of the Rockies, were almost
universally submissive. If there was ever an Arca-
dia it was surely there and then. Against the blue
of the sky, unspotted by a single cloud through many
months of the year, snow-crowned mountains rose in
dazzling relief, while oranges, olives, figs, dates,
bananas, and every other variety of temperate and
sub-tropical fruits which had been introduced by the
Spaniards, ripened in a sun whose ardency was tem-
pered by the dryness of the air into an equability like
that of June, while the regularly alternating breeze
73
„..»
tliai daily swept to and from ocean and mountain
made summer and winter almost indistinguishable
seasons, tlien as nt>w, save for the welcome rains that
characterize the latter. At the foot of the valley,
hetween the mountain-slopes, and never more than
a few miles away, the waters of the Pacific rocked
placidly in the brilliant sunlight or broke in foam
upon a broad beach of sand. In such a scene
Spaniard and Indian plied their peaceful vocations,
the one in picturesque national garb, the other almost
innocent of clothing, while over and around them
lay an atmosphere of sacredness which even to this
day clings to the broken arches and crumbling walls.
Over the peaceful valleys a veritable angelus rang.
The mellow bells of the mission churches summoned
dusky hordes to ceremonial devotion. Want and
strife were imknown. Prosperity and brotherly love
ruled as never before.
It is true they had their trials. Earthquakes,
which have been almost unknown in California for a
quarter of a century, were then not uncommon, and
were at times disastrous, /iio de los Temblores was
the name of a stream derived from the frequency of
earth rockings in the region through which it flowed;
and in the second decade of our century the dreaded
temblor upset the 120-foot tower of the Mission San
Juan Capistrano and sent it crashing down through
the roof upon a congregation, of whom nearly forty
perished. Those, too, were lawless times upon the
main. Pirates, cruising the South Seas in quest of
booty, hovered about the California coast, and then
the mission men stood to their arms, while the women
and children fled to the interior cafions with their
portable treasures. One buccaneer, Bouchard, re-
pulsed in his attempt upon Dolores and Santa Bar-
bara, descended successfully upon another mission
and dwelt there riotously for a time, carousing, and
74
destroying such valuables as he could not carry
away, while the entire population quaked in the %
forest along the Rio Trabuco. This was the same
luckless San Juan Capistrano, six years after the
earthquake visitation. Then, too, there were bicker- -*
ings of a political nature, and struggles for place,
after the rule of Mexico had succeeded to that of
Spain, but the common people troubled themselves
little with such matters.
The end of the Franciscan dynasty came suddenly
with the secularization of the mission property by the
Mexican government to replete the exhausted treas-
uries of Santa Ana. .Sadly the fathers forsook the
scene of their long labors, and silently the Indians
melted away into the wilderness, and the darkness
of their natural ways, save such as had intermarried
with the families of -Spanish soldiers and colonists.
The churches are now, for the most part, only de-
cayed legacies and fragmentary reminders of a time
whose like the world will never know again. Save
only three or four, preserved by reverent hands,
where modern worshipers, denationalized and clad in
American dress, still kneel and recite their orisons,
the venerable ruins are forsaken by all except the
tourist and the antiquarian, and their bells are silent
forever. One can not but feel the pity of it, for in
the history of zealous servants of the cross there is
hardly a more noteworthy name than that of Junipero
Serra, and in the annals of their heroic endeavor
there is no more signal instance of absolute fail-
ure than his who founded the California missions,
aside from the perpetuation of his saintly name.
They accomplished nothing, so far as can now be
seen. The descendar.ts of their converts, what few
have survived contact with the Anglo-Saxon, have
no discoverable worth, and, together with the greater
75
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""^'•mnH""'"
I'
'h'
■'. uUMfl
e»S^- M • -ij-^
part of the orijjinal Spanish population, have faded
away, as if a bliy;ht had fallen upon them.
But so long as one stone remains upon another,
and a single arch of the missions still stands, an
atmosphere will abide there, something that does not
come from mountain, or vale, or sea, or sky; the
spirit of consecration, it may be; but if it is only the
aroma of ancient and romantic associations, the sug-
gestion of a peculiar phase of earnest and simple
human life and quaint environment that is forever
past, the mission-ruins must remain among the most
interesting monuments in all our varied land, and
will amply repay the inconsiderable effort and outlay
required to enable the tourist to view them. San
Diego, the oldest, San Luis Rey, the most poetically
environed, San Juan Capistrano, of most tragic
memor)', San Gabriel, the most imposing, and Santa
Barbara, the most perfectly preserved, will suffice
the casual sight-seer. These also lie comparatively
near together, and are all easily accessible; the first
three being located on or adjacent to the railway-line
between Los Angeles and San Diego, the fourth
standing but a few miles from the first-named city,
and the fifth being almost in the heart of the famous
resort that bears its name.
Reluctantly will the visitor tear himself from the
encompassing charm of their roofless arches and rem-
76
iniscent shadows. They are a dream of the Old
World, indifferent to the sordidness and turbulency of
the New; one of the few things that have been spared
by a relentless past, whose habit is to sweep the things
of yesterday into oblivion. Almost can one hear 4
the echoes of their sweet bells ringing out to heathen
thousands the sunset and the dawn.
LOS ANGELES.
One can hardly cross this continent of ours with-
out gaining a new idea of the immense historical sig-
nificance of the westward yearning of the Saxon, who
in two and a half centuries has marched from Plymouth
Rock to the Sunset Sea, and has subordinated every
other people in his path from shore to shore. The
Spaniard was a world-conqueror in his day, and mas-
ter of California before the stars and stripes had been
devised. The story of his subjugation of the south-
western portion of the New World is the most brill-
iant in modern history. It is a story of unexampled
deeds of arms. Sword and cross, and love of fame
and gold, are inextricably interwoven with it. The
Saxon epic is a more complex tale of obscure hero-
ism, of emigrant cavalcades, of pioneer homes, of
business enterprise. The world may never know
sublimer indifference to fatigue, suffering, and death
than characterized the Spanish invaders of America
for more than two centuries. Whatever the personal
considerations that allured them, the extension of
Spanish empire and the advancement of the cross
amid barbarians was their effectual purpose. The
conquistador was a crusader, and with all his cruelty
and rapacity he is a splendid figure of incarnate force.
But the westward-flowing wave of Saxon conquest
has set him, too, aside. In this fair land of Califor-
nia, won at smallest cost, and seemingly created for
him, his descendants to-day are little more than a
77
viitterctl fringe upon the edges of the displacing civ-
ilization. He has lift his niaik iii)<)n every mount-
ain and valley, in nanus that will long endure, but
himself has been sup,. lanted. He has not lied. He
has di iiinished, faded away.
In 1 78 1 he named {U\}i c'\iy J' uf/'/o </i' /a A\/)i(r t/<-
li>s Angi-/t-s ('I'own of the (,)ueen of the Angels). The
."sa.von, the Man of lUisincss no v supreme, has re-
tained oidy the last two words of that high-sounding
appellation; and hardly a greater proportion remains
of the original atmosphere of this old Spanish town.
Vou will find a Sp.inish (Me.\ican) quarter, unkempt
and adobe, containing elements of the picturesque;
and in the modern portion of the city a restaurant or
two where English is spoken in halting fashion by
very pretty dark skinned girls, and you may satisfy, if
not your appetite, perhaps a long-slanding curiosity
regarding tortillas, and frijolcs, and c/iili con came.
As for ta males, they are, as with us, a matter of curb
stone speculation. Senores, senoras and senori/as are
plentifully encountered upon the streets, but are not,
in general, distinguished by any peculiarity of attire.
Upon the borders of the city one finds more vivid
types, and there the jucal, a poor mud-hovel thatched
with straw, is not quite extinct. The words Spanish
and Mexican are commonly us:d in California to dis-
tinguish a racial difference. Not a few of the ^ pan-
ish soldiery and colonists originally took wives from
among the native Indians. Their offspring has had
its charms for later comers of still other races, and a
complexity of mixture has resulted. The term Mex-
ican is generally understood to apply to this amalga-
mation, those of pure Castilian descent preferring to
be known as Spanish. The latter, numerically a small
class, represent high types, and the persistency of
the old strain is such that the poorest Mexican is to
78
O .0 A ^^^ ^
a ciTtaiii manner horn. I le wears a contented mien,
as if his I )iojjencs-tub anil his imperceptible larder
were reyal possessions, and he does not easily part
with dijjnity and self-respect.
The existence of these descendants of the Con-
querors side by side with the exponents of the new
rtginif is one of the charms of Los Angeles. It has
others in historic vein. After its first overland con-
nection with the East, by way of the Santa Fe Trail,
it rapidly took on the character of a wild border-
town; the influx of adventurers and the stimulation
of an unwonted commerce transforming the Spanish
idyl into a motley scene of remunerative trade, aban-
doned carousal and desperate personal conflict. Its
romantic career of progress and amelioration to its
present enviable estate is marked by monuments that
still endure. Fremont the Pathfinder here first raised
the stars and stripes in 1846, and his after- residence
as governor of the State is well preserved. And
Winfield Scott Hancock, as a young captain of the
army, had quarters in this historic town.
In modern interest it stands for a type of the ma-
terial development that belongs to our day. In i860
it numbered 4,500 inhabitants; in 1880, 11,000; in
1891, more than 50,000. Surrounded by hundreds
of cultivated farms, whose varied products form the
basis of its phenomenal activity and prosperity, it is
a really great city. It is well paved, well lighted,
and abundantly served by intramural railways. It
has parks of extraordinary beauty, and avenues
shaded by the eucalyptus and the pepper, that most
esthetic of trees. Outside the immediate thorough-
fares of trade the streets are bordered by attractive
homes, fronted by grounds set with palm and orange
and cypress, and blooming with flowers throughout
the year. It is backed by the mountains that are
always present in a California landscape, and fifteen
80
miles away lies a vista of the sea, dotted with island-
peaks.
PASADENA.
Just outside the limits of Los Angeles, intimately
connected by railway and street-car lines, is Pasa-
dena. For the origin of the name you may choose
between the imputed Indian signilication, Crown of
the Valley, and a corruption of the Spanish Paso de
Eden (Threshold of Eden). It is in any event the
crown of that Eden, the San Gabriel Valley, which
nestles warmly in its groves and rose-bowers below
lofty bulwarks tipped with snow. Here an Eastern
multitude makes regular winter home in modest
cottage or imposing mansion, and nearly in the cen-
ter of the valley, commanding a full circular sweep
of its extent, stands an eminence crowned by the
Raymond Hotel, of tourist fame. Every fruit and
flower and every ornameni.al tree and shrub known
to Southern California is represented in the elaborate
grounds of this little realm. It is a playg ound of
wealth, a Nob Hill of Paradise, blessed home of
happy men and women and children who prefer
this to vaunted foreign lands, aside from the discom-
forts of crossing the Styx of a stormy Atlantic.
The extensive ranch owned by Lucky Baldwin lies
near at hand, with its great vineyards, orchards,
wineries and horse-training grounds. And it is from
Pasadena one makes the ascent of Mount Wilson,
and Mount Lowe.
8i !
fe||gM-;ji. ^;:i;:..;;4-j., ':.;,r.r.n^Virrr
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"vt, *>.
RIVKKSIDE AND VICINITY.
A locality renowned for oranges, and oranges, and
still more oranges, white and odorous with the bloom
of them, yellow with the sheen of them, and rich
with the gains of them; culminating in a busy little
city overhung by the accustomed mountain-battle-
ments and pendant to a glorious avenue many miles
in length, lineil with tall eucalyptus, drooping pep-
per, and sprightly magnolia-trees in straight lines
far as eye can see, and broken only by short lat-
eral driveways through palm, orange and cypress
to mansion homes. The almost continuous citrus-
groves and vineyards of Riverside are the result of
fifteen or twenty years of co-operative effort, sup-
plemented by some preponderating advantages of
location.
It is the clima.x of the fair region that lies between
Los Angeles and Redlands, through which, for the
convenience of tourists, the trains of the Southern
California Railway twice make daily circuit. The
diagram of this circuit is a cross-belt or rough fig-
ure 8, whose shape, associated with the idea of a
comprehensive and speedy journey, is responsible for
a name greatly relished in a "horsey" State: the
Kite-shaped Track. Starting from Los Angeles,
nearly thirty communities of this famous region are
thus traversed, the most celebrated of which are, in
order, Rivera, Santa F6 Springs, FuIIerton, Ana-
heim, Orange, Santa Ana, South Riverside, River-
side, Colton, San Bernardino, Arrowhead, East
Highland, Mentone, Redlands, North Ontario, Po-
mona, Monrovia, Santa Anita and Pasadena.
REDONDO AND SANTA MONICA.
These are two popular beaches near Los Angeles,
to both which frequent trains are run daily. Equipped
with superb hotels and furnished with the many minor
82
>^si.§^w
Mi^iM>.i'
83
attractions that congregate at Iioliday-resorts, they
arc tlie HriglUon ami Manhattan beaches of tliis
coast, enlianced by venlure and a softer clime, and
a picturesquely varied shine. Holh are locally cele-
brated among lovers of bathing, boating and fish-
ing. Santa Monica is the California home of polo.
Redondo is the point of departure for Santa Cata-
lina Island.
S.WrA CATALl.N'A ISLAND.
'rwenty miles off the coast it rises, like Capri,
from the sea, a many-peaked mountain-cap, varying
in witlth from half a mile to nine miles, and more than
twenty long. Its bold cliff-shores are broken by
occasional pockets rimmed by a semicircular beach
of sand. The most famous of these is Avalon, quite
the most frequented camping-ground of Southern
California. In midsummer its two hotels are filled
to overflowing, and in the hundreds of tents clus-
tered by the water's edge as many as 3,000 pleasure-
seekers are gathered in the height of the season.
Summer is the period of Santa Catalina's greatest
animation, for then, as in other lands, comes vaca-
tion-time. But there is even less variation of season
than on the mainland, and the nights are soft and
alluring, because the seaward-blowing mountain-air
is robbed of all its chill in passing over the equable
waters. Here after nightfall verandas and the beach
are still thronged. The tiny harbor is filled with
pleasure-craft of every description, from rowboats to
commodious yachts, and hundreds of bathers disport
in the placid element. Wonderful are the waters of
Avalon, blue as a Mediterranean sky and astonish-
ingly clear. Over the side of your skiff you may
gaze down through a hundred feet of transparency
to where emerald weeds wave and myriad fishes,
blue and brown and flaming red, swim over pebble
.fe^^.^^-
and shell. Or, climbing the overhanging cliffs, you
gain the fish eagle's view of the life that teems in
\vater-ile|iths, anil looking down half a thousand feet
upon the fisherman in his boat see the bright hued
fishes flashing far beneath him. He seems to hang
suspended in the sky.
Notable fishing is to be had. The barracuda is
plentiful; likewise the yellow-tail, or sea-salmon,
also generally taken by trolling, and frequently tip-
ping a truthful scale at fifty pounds. Jewfishing is
the most famous sport here, and probably the most
e-xciting known anywhere to the hand-fisherman. It
is commonly taken, and in weight ranges from 2oo
to 400 pounds. The fisherman who hooks one is
frequently dragged in his skiff for several miles, and
finds himself nearly as much e.\hausted as the fish
when it finally comes to gaff.
Perhaps the greatest novelty of a trip to Santa
Catalina, for most travelers, is the great number of
flying-fish that inhabit its waters. At only a few
miles' distance from the mainland they begin to leap
from beneath the bows of the steamer, singly, by
twos and by half-dozens, until one wearies of count-
ing, and skim over the waves like so many swallows.
The length of flight of which this poetic fish is
capable proves usually a surprise, for in spite of its
abundance off the Southern California coast its pre-
cise character is none too generally known. In size,
form, and color it may be roughly compared to the
mackerel. Its "wings" are muscular fins whose
spines are connected by a light but strong mem-
brane, and are four in number. The hindermost
pair are quite small, mere butterfly-wings of stouter
fiber; the foremost pair attain a length of seven or
eight inches, and when extended are two inches or
more in breadth. Breaking from the water at a high
rate of speed, but at a very low angle, the flying-
86
fish extends these wing-Hke fins and holds them
rigid, like the set wings of a soaring hawk. With
the lower flange of its deeply forked tail, which at
first drags lightly, it sculls with a convulsive wriggle
of the whole body that gives it the casual appear-
ance of actually winging its way. The additional
impulse thus acquired lifts it entirely from the water,
over whose surface it then scales without further
efTort for a long distance, until, losing in momentum
and in the sustaining pressure of the air beneath its
outstretched fins, it again touches the water, either
to abruptly disappear or by renewed sculling to pro-
long its flight. Often it remains above the waves
until the eye can no longer distinguish its course in
the distance.
In the less-frequented portions of the island the
wild goat is still common. But not long ago a party
of hunters, better armed than educated, wrought
havoc with the domestic sheep that are pastured there;
and now if you wish to hunt the goat you must first
procure a permit, and to obtain that you must adduce
evidence of your ability to tell the one from the other
upon sight. This precautionary measure tends to the
preservation of both sheep and goat, and the real
sportsman as well as the herdsman is benefited
thereby.
Three times a week steamers for Santa Catalina
leave the pier at Redondo Beach, connecting with
trains that are run from Los Angeles. The exhila-
rating ocean-ride and the unique pleasures of the isl-
and can not be too strongly commended.
87
SANTA HARUaRA.
Saint Harbaia is, in Spain, vcncrateil astlu- [lation-
ess of gunpowder and coast-defenses, and the invo-
cation of her name seems to have occurred in the
lijjht of a desirable precaution to its founder, who
was so fond of building missions by the sea; although,
like one of our own heroes, who supplemented his
trust in Providence by protecting his ammunition
from the rain, he kept here, as at a number of other
points, a garrison of soldiers and a few small cannon.
It was long known the world over as " The Amer-
ican Mentone," because in seeking a term to con-
vey its characteristics some comparison with cele-
brated resorts of Europe was thought necessary, and
this particular comparison most fitting. Such defi-
nition is no longer required. Santa Barbara is a name
that everywhere evokes the soft picture of a rose-
buried spot, more than a village, less than a city, ris-
ing gently from the sea-rim by way of shaded avenue
and plaza to the foot of the gray Santa Ynez Mount-
ains, above whose peaks the condor loves to soar;
where, when with us the winter winds are most bitter
and ice and snow work a wicked will, every year they
hold a riotous carnival of flowers, a unique Arcadian
holiday of triumph. And behind all that lies an end
less variety of winsomeness. Not idly does the brigh
stingless air lure one to seek a new pleasure for each
succeeding day. The flat beach is broken by rocky
points where the surf spouts in white columns with
deafening roar, and above it lies a long mesa dotted
with live-oaks that looks down upon the little dream-
ing mission city and far oceanward; and on the other
hand the mountain-slopes beckon to innumerable
glens, and, when the rains have come, to broad hill-
sides of green and banks of blossom. There are
long level drives by the shore, and up the prolific
88
I
valley In famcnis orchard- ranches; and Montecito, a
fairylanil of lionics, is close at liand.
Koiir of the Channel Islands lie opposite Santa
Barbara: Anacapa, Santa Cruz, Santa Rosa and
San Miguel. The last three are only less attractive
by nature than Santa Catalina, of which mention
was made in its place, and although equal facilities do
not exist for the tourist, many persons find their way
there by means of a fishing-boat which, two or three
times a week, leaves Santa Barbara for the island
tishing-grounds. These islands, now permanently
inhabited only by sheep-herders who tend flocks of
many thousands, were once populated by a primitive
people whose burial-mounds, as yet only partly ex-
humed by casual visitors, are rich in archxological
treasures.
Santa Barbara lies northwest from Los Angeles,
on a branch of the Southern Pacific Railroad. It is
the only one of the great resorts of Southern Califor-
nia that is not located upon a proprietary line of
the Santa Fe Rottte.
OSTRICH-FARMING.
At Coronado, Santa Monica and two or three other
points are exhibited troops of ostriches confined in
paddocks. They are generally regarded as a mere
curiosity by the visitor, but really represent an estab-
lished California industry. The original farm lies
on the border of the town of Fallbrook, a dozen
miles northeast from Oceanside, beyond the poetic
Mission San Luis Key, through whose incomparable
valley the stage-road leads. Here, where he roams
with scores of his fellows over a quarter-section of
hill and dale, the ostrich ceases to be exotic. He is at
home, and his habits and personality become an easy
and entertaining study. This Fallbrook ostrich-farm
has been in operation since 1883, the locality having
90
^"^
been found to oflfer conditions closely resembling that
portion of South Africa in which ostrich farming has
so long been a source of wealth. Breeding has been
carried on until it has been definitely established that
a California-bred ostrich is in every respect the equal
of the imported African. There are about one hun-
dred ostriches on this ranch, many having been sold,
and others being absent on exhibition. Every phase
of this remarkable bird, which in maturity yields ev-
ery eight months 2Co of those costly plumes that are
coveted by maids and dames, and all the novelties of
its manipulation, are exhibited upon a large scale.
WINTER SPORTS.
Where out-of-door life is the rule, there being nei-
ther frost nor chill throughout the day, recreation be-
comes a matter of pure selection, unhampered by any
climatic prohibition outside the relatively infrequent
rainstorm. A few enthusiasts make a point of tak-
ing a daily dip in the surf, but the practice does not
reach the proportions of a popular pastime in mid-
winter. Cross-country riding finds then its perfect
season, the whole land being transformed into a gar-
den, over enough of which the horseman is free to
wander. Happy must he be who knows a purer sport
than to gallop, either singly or with comrades, in fra-
grant morning air over a fresh sod spangled with
poppy, violet, forget-me-not, larkspur, and alfileria;
bursting through dense thickets of lilac and mustard
to cross an intervening highway; dipping to verdant
meadow-vales; skirting orchards heavy with fruit,
and mounting tree-capped knolls that look off to
glimmers of sea between the slopes of the hills.
Coaching has its season then, as well, and the horn
of the tallyho is frequently heard. For such as like
to trifle with the snows from which they have fled,
the foothills are at hand, serried with tall firs in
91
//t^ltf*
scattering nmwths or dense shadowy jungles, top-
pinjj lafions where the wagon-trail crosses and re-
cros^es a stream by pleasant fords and the ciested
monntain-tiuail skulks over the ridge above one's
head. There may be had climbing to suit every
taste, touching extremes of chaotic tangle of chap-
arral and crag. There are cliffs over which the
clear mountain-water tumbles sheer to great depths;
notches through which the distant virginal cones
of the highest peaks of the mother range may
be seen in whitest eimine, huge pines dotting their
drifts like petty clumps of weed. Underfoot, too,
on the northerly slopes, is snow, just over the ridge
from where the sun is as warm and the air as gentle
as in the valley, save only the faintest sense of added
vigor and rarefaction. So near do these extremes lie,
and yet so effectually separated, you may thrust into
the mouth of a snow-man a rose broken from the
bush an hour or two before, and pelt him with or-
anges plucked at the very mouth of the canon. And
one who is not too susceptible may comfortably lin-
ger until the sun has set and above the lower dusky
peaks the loftier ones glow rose-pink in the light of
its aftershine; until the moon lights the fissures of
the canon with a ghostly radiance against which the
black shadows of the cliffs fall like ink-blots.
If barracuda, Spanish mackerel, yellow-tail or
jewfish should not be hungry, trout are plentiful in
the mountain-streams. Mountain and valley quail,
and snipe, furnish the most reliable sport for the
average gunner. Good shots do not consider it a
great feat to bring a hundred to bag in a day's out-
ing. Ducks and geese are innumerable. Whole vast
meadows are sometimes whitened with snow-geese,
like a field with daisies, and the air above is filled
with flying thousands. Deer are easily found by
those who know how to hunt them, and mountain-
92
lions and cinnamon bear are not infrequently shot in
the hills.
The grizzly was once exceedingly common. One
of the great sports of the old niissiou days was to
hunt the grizzly on horseback with the riala for sole
weapon, and it is of record that in u single neighbor-
hood thirty or forty of these formidable brutes were
sometimes captured in a night by roping, precisely
as the modern cowboy ropes a steer; the secret of the
sportsmen's immunity lying in the fact that the bear
was almost simultaneously lassoed from different sides
and in tliat manner rigidly pinioned. But Ursus
horribilis has long since retreated to deep solitudes,
where his occasional pursuers, far from approaching
him with a rawhide noose, go armed with heavy re-
peating-rifles, and even thus equipped are not eager
to encounter him at very close range.
Cricket is naturally a favorite diversion among the
many young Englishmen who have located upon
ranches; and yachting and polo do not want for
devotees.
93
/<««i
,r^-
NORTHERN CALIFORNIA.
IV' Northern California is commonly meant
all that portion north of the six lower-
most counties. The distinction has yet
no political significance, but is generally
recognized. To be geographically exact, the present
stage is mainly confined to the middle of the State.
Upon quitting Los Angeles a gradual relapse into
aridity soon becomes apparent, until again you are
fairly on a desert over whose flat dry sands the water
mirage loves to hover, although it no longer mocks
parched perishing caravans as in former days. Rail-
roads have robbed these wastes of their terror, and
oases here and there mark the homes of irrepressible
settlers. This barren quickly gives place to the
Tehachapi Pass, a scenic maze of detours and invo-
lutions leading down into vast irrigated lands in the
fertile valley of the San Joaquin. At Berenda a short
branch diverges eastward to Raymond, from which
point stages ply to the renowned valley of the Sierra
Nevada Range, whose majestic beauty is second only
to that of the Grand Canon of the Colorado.
All the world has heard of the Yosemite, of its
cataract that plunges 1,500 feet sheer in one of
its three downward leaps, of its thread-like cascade
that bends to the wind through goo feet of descent,
of its colossal domes, spires and arches of bare
94
granite contrasted with soft tones of green forest
and silver lake; and of the Big Trees of the Mariposa
Grove, where more than three hundred specimens of
the Sequoia giganteiz are scattered over an area of
several thousand acres. This is the regular ap roach
to those scenes, of which the barest mention should
surely suffice, their description having passed into
the literature of every language.
Beyond Berenda widening meadows slope to a
placid inlet of the sea, whose winding shore leads to
Oakland Pier. Here a ferry crosses the bay to the
city of San Francisco.
Numberless matters of interest in this region, more
or less widely known and certain to be brought to
the attention of the traveler en route, must be omit-
ted from the present account. The wise traveler,
blessed with leisure, will stop by the way and look
about him. Here is a State whose seaboard is as
long as that which stretches from Massachusetts to
Georgia, whose mountains are overtopped in North
America only by those of Alaska, whose mines have
astonished the world, whose wealth of cattle and
sheep and horses is nearly half as great as that of
its mines, whose vales have wrought revelation in
gardening and fruit-culture, and whose natural prod-
igies and landscape marvels are innumerable. But
San Francisco, the region of the Santa Clara Valley,
and Lake Tahoe, which overlaps the borderline of
Nevada, will be permitted to monopolize the remain-
der of the space allotted to California.
SAN FRANCISCO.
The bay cf San Francisco is almost completely
encircled by land. The Golden Gate is the tideway,
a narrow passage between the extremities of two
peninsulars, upon the point of the southernmost of
which the city stands.
95
Here too the Franciscan mission-builders were first
iipt>ii the field, and the present name is a curtailment
of Mission df los Dolores t/t- .Xut-slro Padre San Fraii-
lisio de Aisis, an ;ippellation commemorative of the
sorrows of tlie originator of the ortier. The Mis-
sion Dolores, founded in 1776, is still preserved with
its little campo saiilo of the dead, a poor unsightly
strangled thing, structurally unimposing and wholly
wanliTig in the poetic atmosphere of semi-solitude
that envelops the missions of Southern California.
A modern cathedral overshadows it, and shops and
dwellings jostle it. So nearly, in forty years, has all
trace of the preceding three-quarters of a century been
obliterated. Changed from a Spanish to a Mexican
province early in the century, then promptly stripped
of the treasures that had been accumulated by monk-
ish administration, and subsequently ceded to the
United States, California had on the whole a dreamy,
quiet life until that famous nugget was found in 1S48.
Then followed the era of the Argonauts, seekers of
the golden fleece, who flocked by the hundred thou-
sand from Eastern towns and cities by way of the
plains, the Isthmus and the Cape to dig in the gravel-
beds; lawless adventurers in their train. San Fran-
cisco practically dates from that period. Its story is
a wild one, a working-out of order and stable com-
mercial prosperity through chapters that treat of
feverish gold-crazy m ^bs, of rapine grappled by the
vigilance committee, of insurrection crushed by mil-
itary force. And in this prosperity, oddly enough,
the production of gold has been superseded in im-
portance by other resources; for although California
annually yields more precious metal than any other
State, the yearly value of its marketed cattle, wool,
cereals, roots, fruits, sugar and wines is twice as
great, and forms the real commercial basis of the great
city of the Pacific Coast, where the railroads of a con-
96
tinent ami the fleets of two oceans clasp hands and
complete the circuit of the globe.
As if it were fearful of being hid, it is set upon
not one but a score of hills, overlooking land and sea.
As you near it, by way of Oakland Ferry, it appears
to be built in terraceil rows rising steeply from the
water-front; but that is a bit of foreshortening. It
is St 11 rather motley in architeciure. Low frame
buildings were at first the rule, partly because they
were suflicient to the climate and partly in deference
to traditions of earthquake; but at length builders
ventured taller structures, of brick and stone, and now
every year many lofty elegant buildings are added.
Certainly no one of them has been shaken down as
yet, and possibly the architects have authority for
believing that even Vulcan is superannuated and in
his second childhood is appeased with a rattle.
It is a city of fair aspect, undulating from the
water's edge, where children play upon the broad
sands and sea-lions clamber over jutting rocks, to
heights of nearly a thousand feet. Overlooking the
sands ar.d the seal rocks from a considerable bluff is
the Cliff House resort, and towering above that is the
magnificent sky-battlement known as Sutro Heights
— a private property open to the public and embel-
lished by landscape gardens and statuary. Other
sights and scenes are the Golden Gate, the park of
the same name — a thousand acres of familiar and rare
trees, shrubs and flowers — the largest mint in the
world, not a few magnificent public buildings, innu-
merable phases of active commerce, and the con-
trasting life of races representing nearly every nation
of the world.
CHINATOWN.
A few steps from your hotel, at the turn of a cor-
ner, you come at once upon the city of the Chinese.
It is night, and under the soft glow of paper lanterns
A STREET IN CHIN4[0WN.
99
and through the gloom of unlighted alleys weaves an
oriental throng. Folicemen doubtless stand upon a
corner here and there, and small parties of tourists
pick their way under lead of professional guides; the
remaining thousands are Celestials ail. The scene
is of the Chinaman at home, very John, restored to
authenticity of type by the countenance of numbers,
and so in the twinkling of an eye you become a for-
eigner in your own land, a tolerated guest in a fan-
tastic realm whose chief apparent hold upon reality
is its substratum of genuine wickedness. It is a gro-
tesque jumble, a panopticon of peepshows: women
shoemakers huddled in diminutive rooms; barbers
with marvelous tackle shaving heads and chins, and
cleaning ears and eyeballs, while their patrons sit in
the constrained attitude of a victim, meekly holding
the tray; clerks, armed with a long pointed stick
dipped in ink, soberly making pictures of variant
spiders in perpendicular rows; apothecaries expound-
ing the medicinal virtues of desiccated toad and
snake; gold-workers making bracelets of the precious
metal to be welded about the arm of him who dares
not trust his hoard to another's keep; restaurateurs
serving really palatable conserves, with pots of de-
lectable tea; shopkeepers vending strange foreign
fruits and dubious edibles plucked from the depths
of nightmare; merchants displaying infinitude of cu-
rious trinkets and elaborate costly wares; worshipers
and readers of the book of fate in rich temples niched
with uncouth deities ; conventional actors playing
interminable histrionics to respectful and appreciative
auditors ; gamblers stoically venturing desperate
games of chance with cards and dominoes; opium-
smokers stretched upon their bunks in a hot atmos-
phere heavy with sickening fumes; lepers dependent
upon occasional alms flung by a hand that avoids the
contamination of contact; female chattels, still fair
loo
and innocent of face despite unutterable wrongs, yet
no whit above the level of their deep damnation —
such is the Chinatown one brings away in lasting
memory after three hours of peering, entering, as-
cending, descending, crossing, and delving. A very
orderly and quiet community, withal, for the Mon-
golian is not commonly an obstreperous individual,
and his vices are not of the kind that inflame to
deeds of violence. He knows no more convivial
bowl than a cup of tea. If he quits the gaming-ta-
ble penniless, it is with a smile of patient melancholy.
And his dens of deepest horror are silent as en-
chanted halls.
All except its innermost domestic life may be in-
spected by the curious. The guides are discreet, and
do not include the lowest spectacles except upon re-
quest, although it is equally true that very many vis-
itors, regarding the entire experience as one of the
conventional sights of travel, go fortified with espe-
cial hardihood and release their conductor from con-
siderations of delicacy.
The joss-houses, or temples, are hung with pon-
derous gilded carvings, with costly draperies and rich
machinery of worship. The deities are fearful con-
ceptions, ferocious of countenance, bristling with
hair and decked with tinseled robes. A tiny vestal-
flame burns dimly in a corner, and near it stands a
huge gong. An attendant strikes this gong vocifer-
ously to arouse the god, and then prostrates himself
before the altar, making three salaams. A couple of
short billets, half-round, are then tossed into the air
to bode good or ill luck to you according as they fall
upon the one or the other side. A good augury hav-
ing been secured by dint of persistent tossing, a
quiverful of joss-sticks is next taken in hand and
dextrously shaken until three have fallen to the floor.
The sticks are numbered, and correspond to para*
praphs in a fatc-book that is next resorted to, and you
an- ultimately informed that you will live for forty
years to come; that you will marry within two years,
and, if your sex and air seem to countenance such a
venture, that you will shortly make enormous win-
ninj^s at poker Whatever of genuine solemnity may
cloak the Heathen Chinee in his own relations to his
bewhiskered deities, he undoubtedly tips the wink to
them when the temple is invaded by itinerant sight-
seers. The smooth, spectacled interpreter of desti-
nies pays $5,000 3 year for the privilege of purveying
such mummeries, and hardly can the Heathen Chi-
nee himself repress a twinkle of humor at the termi-
nation of a scene in which he so easily comes off
best, having fairly outdone his Caucasian critic in
cynicism, and for a price.
In the theater he will be found, perhaps contrary
to expectation, to take a serious view of art. You
are conducted by a tortuous underground passage of
successive step-ladders and narrow ways, past innu-
merable bunk-rooms of opium-smokers, to th^ stage
itself, where your entrance creates no disturbance.
The Chinese stage is peculiar in that while the act-
ors are outnumbered ten to one by supernumeraries,
musicians and Caucasian visitors, they monopolize
the intellectual recognition of the audience. The
men who, hat on head, pack the pit, and the women
who throng the two galleries, divided into respect-
able and unrespectable by a rigid meridian, have
been educated to a view of the drama which is hardly
to be ridiculed by nations that admit the concert and
the oratorio. The Chinese simply need less ocular
illusion than we in the theater, and perhaps those of
us who are familiar with the grotesque devices by
which our own stage-veneer is wrought perform no
less an intellectual feat than they. Their actors are
indeed richly costumed, and, women not being per-
I02
mittcd upon the stage, the youths who play female
roles arc carefully made up for their parts; and one
and all tiioy endeavor to impersonate. Almost no
other illusion is considered necessary. The stage-
manager and his assistants now and then erect a
small background suggestive of environment, and the
province of the orchestra is to accentuate emotion—
in which heaven knows they attain no small degree
of success. It is highly conventionalized drama, in
which any kind of incongruity may elbow the play-
ers provided it does not confuse the mind by actu-
ally intervening between them and the audience.
The plays are largely historical, or at least legend-
ary, and vary in length from six or eight hours to a
serial of many consecutive nights' duration. There
are stars whose celebrity packs the house to the limit
of standing-room, and there are the same strained
silent attention and quick rippling response to witty
passages that mark our own playhouses; but such
demonstrative applause as the clapping of hands and
the stamping of feet is unknown. The Chinese
theater-goer would as soon think of so testifying en-
joyment of a good book in the quiet of his home. But
as for the orchestra, let them write its justification!
Such a banging of cymbals, and hammering of
gongs, and monotonous squealing of stringed in-
struments in unrememberable minor intervals almost
transcends belief. Without visible leader, and un-
marked by any discoverable rhythm, it is nevertheless
characterized by unanimity of attack and termina-
tion, as well as enthusiasm of execution, and histo-
rians of music are authority for the statement that it
is based upon an established scale and a scientific
theory. Be that as it may, it is a thing of terror first
to greet the ear on approach, last to quit it in de-
parture, and may be counted upon for visitation in
dreams that follow indigestion.
104
CHINESE RESTAURANT,
105
j'rin- si'crct society known as the Highbinders was
created two antl a half centuries ago in C'iiina by a
banil of devoted patriots, anil had dcijenerated into
an organization employed lo further the ends of av-
arice and revenge long before it was transplanted to
this country. Relieved of the espionage ihat had in
sonic measure controlled it at home, and easily able
to evade a police unfamiliar with the Chinese tongue,
it grew in numbers and power with great rapidity.
'I'hc greater portion of the people of Chinatown has
always been honestly industrious and law abiding,
but the society rewarded hostility by persecution,
ruin and often death. Merchants were laid under
tribute, and every form of industry in the commu-
nity that was not directly protected by membership in
the society was compelled to yield its quota of reve-
nue. Vice was fostered, and courts of law were so
corrupted by intimidation or bribery of witnesses
that it was ne.xt to impossible to convict a High-
binder of any criminal offense. A climax of terror
was reached that at last convulsed the environing
city, and by the pure effrontery of autocratic power
the society itself precipitated its downfall. A per-
emptory word was given to the police, and there en-
sued a scene which the astonished Celestials were
forced to accept as a practical termination of their
bloody drama; a small epic of civilization intent
on the elevation of heathendom, no inconsiderable
portion of which in a short space was blown sky-
high. The Highbinders were scattered, many im-
prisoned or executed, innumerable dives emptied,
temples and secret council-rooms stripped bare, and
the society in effect undone. Yet still, for one who
has viewed the lowest depths of the Chinatown of
to-day, the name will long revive an uncherished
memory of two typical faces, outlined upon a back-
ground of nether flame. One is the face of a young
1 06
BALCONY OF JOSS-HOUbE.
107
wom.in who in a cell far underground leans against
a iiigh couch in a manner half-wanton, half-indiffer-
ent, and chants an unintelligible barbaric strain.
The other is that of her owner, needing only a hang-
man's knot beneath the ear to complete a wholly
satisfactory presentment of irredeemable depravity.
And that is why one quits the endless novelties of
the peepshow without regret, and draws a breath of
relief upon regaining the familiar streets of civili-
zation.
SANTA CLARA VALLEY.
Below the junction of San Francisco's peninsular
with the mainland the Santa Clara Valley stretches
southward between the Coast and Santa Cruz ranges.
Along this valley lies the way to San Jose and the
coast-resorts of Santa Cruz and Monterey, past inter-
mediate points of celebrity.
Palo Alto is the site of the Stanford University,
where in a campus of 8,000 acres, an arboretum to
which every clime has liberally contributed, stands
this magnificent memorial of a cherished son. The
buildings are conceived in the style of mission archi-
tecture— low structures connected by an arcade sur-
rounding an immense inner court, with plain thick
walls, arches and columns, built of buff sandstone,
and roofed with red tiles. Richly endowed, this uni-
versity is broadly and ambitiously planned, and is
open to both sexes in all departments.
Hard by, at Menlo Park, is Mr. Stanford's horse
breeding and training establishment, where hundreds
of thoroughbreds are carefully tended in paddock and
stable, and daily trained. Even one who is not a
lover of horses, if such person exists, can not fail to
find entertainment here, where daily every phase of
equine training is exhibited from the kindergarten
where toddling colts are taught the habit of the track
to the open course where famous racers are speeded.
108
^''^^^
Perhaps there is not, in the whole of Northern
California, a town more attractively environed than
San Jose. It lies in the heart of the valley, pro-
tected by mountain-walls from every wandering
asperity of land or sea, a clean, regularly platted city,
reaching off through avenues of pine and of euca-
lyptus, and through orchards and vineyards, to pretty
forest-slopes where roads climb past rock, glen and
rivulet to fair commanding heights. The immediate
neighborhood is the center of prune production, and
every year exports great quantities of berries, fruits
and wines. The largest seed-farms and the largest
herd of short-horn cattle in the world are here.
Twenty-six miles east from San Jose is Mount
Hamilton, upon whose summit the white wall of the
Lick Observatory is plainly visible at that distance.
This observatory has already become celebrated for
the discovery of Jupiter's fifth satellite, and gives
promise of affording many another astronomical sen-
sation in time to come. Visitors are permitted to look
through the great telescope one night in the week,
and in the intervals a smaller glass, sufficiently pow-
erful to yield a good view of the planets in the broad
sunlight of midday, is devoted to their entertainment.
It is reached by stage from San Jose, the round trip
being made daily. Aside from the attraction of the
famous sky-glass, supplemented by the multitudin-
ous and elaborate mechanisms of the observatory,
the ride through the mountains to Mount Hamilton
more than compensates the small fatigue of the jour-
ney. There are backward glimpses of the beautiful
valley, and a changing panorama of the Sierra, the
road making loops and turns in the shadow of live-
oaks on the brink of profound craler-Iike depres-
sions.
Santa Cruz is a popular resort by the sea, pos-
109
"^^/zJ^V-
sessing picturesque rocks and a fine background of
the mountains that bear its name. Near at liand is a
much-visited grove of Big Trees, the approach to
which leatls througli oak and fir, ])ast caflons fringed
with madrona and nianzanita, antl fern and flower.
Monterey was the old capital of California in the
earliest period of Spanish rule. Here the forest
crowds upon the sea and mingles its odor of balm
with that of the brine. The beach that divides them
is broken by cliffs where the cypress finds footing to
flaunt its ruggeil boughs above the spray of the waves,
and in the gentle air of a perfect climate the wild
flowers hold almost perpetual carnival. Upon such
a foundation the Hotel del Monte, with its vast parks
of lawn and garden and driveway, covering many
hundred acres, is set, all its magnificence lending
really less than it owes to the infinite charm of Mon-
terey. Its fame has spread through every civilized
land, and European as well as American visitors
make up its throng. Here, as elsewhere upon the
coast, foreign travelers are seen most in that season
when the extraordinary equability of winter allures
them by contrast with their native environment, but
the Californian knows its summer aspect to be no
less winsome; and so, from the year's beginning to
its end, there is one long gala-day at Monterey, its
parks and beaches and forests animated by wealthy
and fashionable pleasure -seekers. The Del Monte
is located in a scattering grove of 200 acres, a little
east from the town, and for lavishness of luxury
and splendor in construction and accessory has per-
haps no superior Bathing, boating, camping and
driving are the current out-of-door activities, and
specific points of interest are the Carmel Mission.
Pacific Grove, Moss Beach, Seal Rocks, Cypress
Point and Point Pinos Lighthouse. The amount of
yearly rainfall at Monterey is more than at San
no
Diego and less than at Santa Harbara. 'Ihe mean
initisuninuT tcntpcraturc is the same, namely, 65*^,
but in winter the thermometer averajjes lower, the
mean temperature of January bein^so'^at Monterey,
56*^ at Santa Harbara anil 57" at San Diego. These
figures compare most favorably with the records of
European resorts, and the absence of humidity works
a further amelioration, both in summer and winter,
firmly establishing the resorts of California as char-
acterized by the most equable climate known.
LAKE TAJIOE.
More than 6,000 feet above the sea, among mount-
ains that rise from its edge to a further altitude of
from 2,000 to 5,000 feet, and surrounded by the deep
forest, this lake unites the highest poetic beauty with
definite attractions for the artist and the sportsman.
It is twenty-five miles long and half as wide, and
reaches a depth of 1,700 feet. Hotels and cottages
sprinkle its shores, little steamers ply upon its silvery
surface, and there are tents and boats of camping
fishermen and hunters. Here to the aromatic odor
of the forest come lovers of pure joys for compara-
tive solitude in the heart of nature. In the adjacent
wilderness there is game to tax the address of the
bravest gunner, and mountain-streams shout in tor-
rent through a thousand fierce tangles of woodland
dear to artists and unprofessional lovers of untram-
meled beauty; and from the mountain-tops one may
look far out over the barriers that strive to secrete
this exquisite spot from the outer world. Fragments
of its loveliness have been copied by many a brush
and many a camera, poets have sung of it, travelers
have told of it in labored prose; but Lake Tahoe
eludes translation. Have you ever chanced upon a
spot where Nature, turning from gorgeous pigments
112
and heroic canvases in a swift softening mood had
spent the white hr^at of inspiration upon a picture in
which was permitted neither asperity nor want of
perfect grace, a thing finely poised between grandeur
and gentleness, wood and water and mountain and
sky rhymed in every line and tone to a fine exalta-
tion such as the Greek knew when he dreamed a
statue out of the marble? Tahoe is of that category.
It is reached by stage from Truckee, on the line of
the Central Pacific, our returning eastward route
from San Francisco.
^-*^~'
NEVADA AND UTAH.
(EVADA formerly existed as part of the Ter-
ritory of Utah, and having leaped into
^i^ sudden significance with the discovery of
silver sulphurets in 1858 was separately
organized an 1 admitted into the Union during the
Civil War. Trappers were its pioneers in 1825, over-
land emigrants crossed it as early as 1834, and the
113
explorations of Fremont bcpan nine years later. It
is a land of silver antl sage-brush, anil steaming min-
eral springs; of salt and borax and sulphur; of par-
allel mountain-ranges, rolling plains aiul Hat alkaline
sands, of limpid lish thronged lakes and brackish
sinkholes that suck the flow of its rivers. Its com-
position is endlessly diverse, and there is abundance
of noble scenery, but this does not generally lie ad-
jacent to the railway-route. In its transit the tour-
ist will not unlikely be aware of a few hours of mo-
notony— the first and the last to be encountered in
the entire course of the journey. Reno, Winnemuc-
ca, and Elko are the chief cities that will be seen,
and Humboldt River is followed closely for the great-
er part of the distance across the State. Nevada, as
everybody knows, means suo'V)'. The name was de-
rived from the range upon its western border, and
was not suggested by any characteristic of the cli-
mate, which is dry and healthful, and, save in ex-
treme altitudes, notably temperate.
Crossing the Utah line, and keeping well above
the edge of the desolate barren noted on the maps
as the Great Salt Lake Desert, you come quickly
into view of the Great Salt Lake itself, whose shore
is approximately followed for half its circumference
upon the north and east. Between the eastern
shore and the Wasatch Range the southward-trend-
ing valley stretches for many miles. Ogden, Salt
Lake City, Provo, Springville, and numerous pretty
Mormon villages are scattered along the line, and
there is a large body of fresh water known as Utah
Lake, linked to the great salt inland sea by the Jor-
dan River. America boasts no fairer or more fruit-
ful valley than this. Beyond, the circular eastward
sweep of the route passes Red Narrows, Soldier Sum-
mit, Castle Gate, Green River, and the Book Cliffs,
114
^/^r
JT^
and leads through the noble valley of the Grand River
to the Colorado boundary at Utaline.
Desert, broken by innumerable lovely oases; salt
sea and fresh-water lake; monuments of an institu-
tion of world-wide notoriety and its communities
alternating or mingled with " Gentile " population;
mountain-passes, canons, noble gateways, and mem-
orable rock-formations and river-valleys — these are
the distinguishing features of Utah.
Focal point of converging railroads from the east
and west, and nourished by many thousand acres of
irrigated land immediately surrounding, Ogden is the
second city of Utah in importance. The Wasatch
Mountains protect it upon the east and north, and
form a background of exceeding beauty here as else-
where. The attractions of its environs include lakes,
springs, rivers and parks, and Ogden Cafion, a nine-
US
mile stretch of ruggcil rock-fissures and roaring
waters.
SALT l.AKK CITY.
Here in 1S47 came Brighani ^'oung and liis band
of Latter Day Saints, driven from the States by the
unpopularity of their tenets and practice. The story
of the Mormons is a tragic one, difficult reading for
a dispassionate reader, like that of the Puritanic
persecution of (Quakers and reputed practitioners of
witchcraft two centuries ago. It is true the Mormon
offered an affront to the public sense of morality, but
a later generation, that counts so many avowed ad-
herents to the notion that even monogamous mar-
riage is a failure, should have only commiseration
for a sect committed to utter bankruptcy in that par-
ticular. In any event, abhorrence of polygamy can
not serve as excuse for the cruelties visited upon the
early Mormons by the mobs that despoiled, mal-
treated and murdered them. In this lies our dis-
grace, part sectional, part national, that their one
offensive characteristic was counted a forfeiture of
their every human right, and their defiance of a sin-
gle law made pretext for the violation of twenty in
their persecution. They are familiar to the public
mind almost solely in their character as polygamists
claiming sanction of divine authority; yet, although
polygamy no longer exists in Utah, the Church of
Latter Day Saints having formally renounced it, the
name of Mormon still has power to awaken prejudice
among those who know the sect only by repute. The
abandonment of this prejudice is demanded not by
charity but by common-sense. The patriarchal
households of the pious old Jewish kings are not
more utterly a thing of the past than are those of
the Mormons, and stripped of them Mormonism is
not opposed to tenets that are current in other reou-
table churches.
n6
The putative author of the Book of Mormon was a
prophet of that name. It purports to be an abridg-
ment of the book of the prophet Ether, which nar-
rated that the Jaredites came to America in the great
dispersion that followed the confusion of tongues at
Babel, and were destroyed for their degeneracy in
the year 600 B. C. In the same year Lehi led a
second exodus, from Jerusalem, which landed at
Chili, from which point the populating of North
America was again begun. Ether's book was dis-
covered by this colony, which in course of time was
divided into two factions, the Nephites and the
Lamanites. The former were eventually extermi-
nated by the latter, who relapsed into barbarism and
became the ancestral stock of our native Indians.
Mormon was a prophet of the Nephites, and to the
abridgment of Ether's story added an account of the
history of the second colony, and hid his own tablets
where they were found by Joseph Smith and by him
miraculously translated. The basis of the religious
teaching is Biblical; the exposition constitutes Lat-
ter Day sanctity.
The followers of Young found the Salt Eake Val-
ley a desert of unproductiveness, despite the beauty
of its contour. They made it an unprecedented
oasis, a broad garden of lovely fertility. A band of
pauper zealots, they camped upon a barren and com-
pelled it to sustain them. They found inspiration in
the striking topographical resemblance between their
Deseret and Palestine, and gave the name Jordan to
the little river that joined their two contrasting waters
as old Jordan joins the Sea of Tiberias with the Dead
Sea. They chose a site for Zion, and in its center,
in 1S53, they laid the foundations of the Temple,
which the predetermined forty years of building will
hardly bring to completion. And as the government
was of the Church, so the Temple was regarded as
117
the pivot of 7-ion. The onlinal numbers, combined
with the four cardinal points, still serve to distin-
guish the different streets of the city, as clearly in-
dicating the exact relation of each to the location of
the great edilice. Second West Street, Kast Fifth
South Street, and the like, are finger-posts that guide
the stranger infallibly to the Mormon niecca.
It was a curious reversion to the old patriarchal
idea of life, foreign to the spirit of our time, and so
foredoomed to failure; but the dreamers had hard
muscles and determined souls. They grubbed bush-
es, they dug ditches, they irrigated, they fought the
grasshopper, they subsisted on the substance of things
hoped for, enduring extremes of hunger and priva-
tion in the first years of their grapple with the des-
ert. And by the time the reluctance of earth had
been overcome and material prosperity had been won,
the westward flow of emigration had brought about
the human conflict once more. The records of that
conflict have been written by the accustomed parti-
san hands, but the plain truth is that whether we are
Mormon, or Catholic, or Protestant, or Mohamme-
dan, or Gentile pure and unalloyed, we are intolerant
all; and when we lay hold upon an issue it is more
than a meeting of Greeks, it is savage to savage, old
Adam himself warring against himself in the persons
of his common children. Mormonism was a dream
of religious enthusiasm mi.xed with earthly dross,
overthrown by dross of earth that invoked the name
of religion. Yet the overthrow was plainly plotted
by the higher powers, and the conquerors were in
their employ.
The distinguishing features of the sect, as now re-
stricted, are not apparent to the casual traveler, to
whom Zion is only a romantic and imposing relic of
a day that has been outlived. But the organization
still endures, and there is no reason to doubt that its
IiS
119
distinction is vital enough in the sight of Mormons
themselves, as it is to any clan or denomination. In-
dividually they are esteemed and respected among
the "Gentiles" that have invaded Salt Lake City,
and Brigham Young himself, in the fullness of his
almost autocratic power, manifested many of the qual-
ities that make great names in history. That he
made scandalous misuse of that power is generally
believed, and, however great he may have deemed
the danger of his people, it is certain he rebelled
against the Government of these United States; but
he was essentially a great leader and a man of many
broad and beneficent conceptions. As contractor he
built hundreds of miles of the first transcontinental
railroad, and built a connecting road nearly forty
miles in length to place Salt Lake Ciiy in commercial
intimacy with the outside world. The first telegraph-
line to span the Rockies was principally constructed
by him as contractor. And it is remembered of him
that he furnished a Mormon battalion to the Me.xican
War, and protected from Indian depredations the
transportation of the United States mails through
Utah at a time when Government troops could not
be spared for the service. The establishment of the
Territory of Utah was the death-knell of the State
of Deseret which he had founded, yet the President
had enough confidence in his loyalty to appoint him
its first governor. That he should in the unavoida-
ble ultimate issue take positive ground on the side of
his people was to have been expected of the Mormon
leader.
Young is the personification of the sect to the
world at large, and his memory overhangs Salt Lake
City, perpetuated in the broad private grounds with
their high walls and imposing gateway, where so long
he dwelt, and where in death he lies buried. And
near at hand are the erstwhile palaces of his favorite
121
du».
wives, and miscellaneous structures that liad relig-
ious ami governmental uses in the singular day of
his prime.
i;reat salt lake.
Great Salt Lake has lost nirieteentvventieths of its
original dimensions, which still are traceable. Its
area was once equal to one-half that of the present
Territory. It now covers an extent of about 2,000
square miles, in which are included a dozen or more
mountain-islands. Its waters are temperately warm
and live times as salt as the ocean. The human
body floats upon their surface with cork-like buoy-
ancy, without the slightest sustaining effort. You
may double your knees under you and recline upon
it, like a cherub on a cloud, with head and shoulders
protruding. With sun-umbrella and book you may
idly float and read at pleasure, or safely take a nap
upon the bosom of Salt Lake if you can contrive to
maintain a suitable balance meanwhile; for you will
find a marked disposition on the part of this brine
to turn you face down, which position is anything
but a pleasant pickle when unexpectedly assumed,
for the membrane of eyes and nose and mouth is not
on friendly terms with such saline bitterness. The
shore of the lake is a few iniles distant from the city,
and Garfield Beach, some eighteen miles away, is
the most popular bathing-resort. Here a pavilion
and whole streets and avenues of dressing rooms
have been provided for the hundreds of bathers
who every day in season flock to the lake. Every-
body bathes, and the scene, novel and amusing by
reason of the remarkable specific gravity of the water,
is unlike that of any other watering-place. The nat-
122
ural aspect is full of soft beauty, not unlike that of the
South California shore, looking off to the coast islands
of the Pacific, save that the semi-tropical vegetation
is wanting.
Salt Lake is a Dead Sea, bare of fish or fowl ex-
cept for a minute and not numerous species of the
former. There is said to be a Mormon tradition
that in the time of their grasshopper plague an enor-
mous flight of gulls issued from its horizon and
cleared the fields of their pest. The spectacle of
those sea-scavengers waddling through the brown
stubble in pursuit of the grasshopper must have been
diverting, at least, and the occurrence was doubtless
miraculous if true.
123
VII.
COLORADO.
HIS State is the apex of North America,
c>yate^-^ the crown of the slopes that rise from
l-^^^g Pacific and Atlantic shores. It is the
heart of the Rocky Mountain chain, num-
bering luindreils of individual summits that rise to a
height of more than 13,000 feet, and many whose
altitude exceeds 14,000. Between the ranges lie
numerous parks, broad basins of great fertility and
surpassing loveliness, diversified by forest, lake and
stream, and themselves e.xalted to an altitude of from
eight to ten thousand feet. The precipitous water-
sheds of this titanic land give birth to many impor-
tant rivers, such as the Platte, Arkansas, Rio Grande
del Norte, and Grand, whose channels, save where
they occasionally loiter through the alluvial parks, are
marked by fierce cataracts and gloomy gorges.
This Alpine land of prodigious scenery and inspir-
iting air, and of phenomenal mineral and agiicultur-
al wealth, we now enter upon the west. Every suc-
cessive scene is an event, every turn of the way a
The canons of the Grand River have not infrequently been
confounded with the Grand Canon of the Colorado River, by
tourists who have not visited the latter, in consequen< e of an
unfortunate coincidence of names, ;.r,d further confusion has
resulted from the use of the title "Grand Canon" inconnection
with the gorges of the Gunnison and the Arkansas. The
Grand Cafion of the Colorado River is entitled by divine right
to a monopoly of the name. It is situated in Arizona, and was
described in its place.
124
revelation, advancing in ascending climaxes. The
first stage, 120 miles along the valley of the Grand
River, past Grand Junction, at the confluence of the
Gunnison, to Glenwood Springs, serves for introduc-
tion. From that point on, specific mention becomes
necessary.
GLENWOOD SPRINGS.
Where the Grand River issues from somber cafion-
walls into a mountain-hemmed valley, just above the
confluence of the foaming torrent of Roaring Fork,
numerous thermal springs of saline and chalybeate
waters boil from its bed and from its grass covered
banks, and natural caves are filled with their vapor.
Here is Glenwood Springs, lately the resort of Utes,
and the home of deer, elk, and bear, which latter
have retreated only to the bordering forest. Young-
est of the great watering-places of Colorado, its dis-
tinction lies in the extraordinary character and volu-
minous flow of the springs, the unique manner in
which they have been brought into service, and the
superb hotel, bath-house and park with which the
natural attractiveness of the spot has been perfected.
In the middle of the exquisite park the largest spring
feeds an enormous pool, covering more than an acre,
from three to five feet deep, paved with smooth brick
and walled with sandstone. A fountain of cold
mountain-water in the center tempers the pool to
gradations that radiate to its rims. Here bathing is
in season throughout the year. In winter or sum-
mer the temperature of the water and of the imme-
diate atmosphere has the same delicious warmth, and
all the snow and ice that Colorado can boast in Jan-
uary at an altitude of over five thousand feet does
not interfere with out-of-door bathing at Glenwood
Springs. The bath is neither enervating nor stimu-
lating in any violent degree. An hour in the pool
125
is not followed by exhaustion; it is a thoroughly en-
joyalijc pleasure, bencruia! in effect. Catarrh, rheu-
matism, diseases of the blood, and many ailments
that do not yield to medicine are either wholly cured
or relieved by these waters. The bath-house by the
side of the pool is no less than a palace in architect-
ure aiul sumptuous equipment. Here are private
bath-rooms, with attendants and ail manner of ap-
pliances, for those who prefer them, or to whom
the public pool is unsuited. Radical treatment is
given in the vapor-caves, which have been divided
into compartments and fitted for the purpose.
The park-grounds rise in successive terraces to
the Hotel Colorado, which was conceived in the same
spirit of originality which created the improvements
mentioned. This hotel is constructed upon three
sides of a large court, containing a miniature lake, fed
by cold mountain-springs and stocked with trout in-
tended for the table. In summer the glass partitions
which in cold weather separate the main dining-room
from the broad veranda are taken down, and tables
are set in the open air; and the guest who may fancy
a broiled trout for breakfast is privileged to capture
it himself, in this particular following the practice of
the patron of restaurants in Mexico, who selects the
materials of his meal before they have been sent to
the kitchen.
The State of Colorado is the best hunting-ground
left to the American sportsman. The immediate vicin-
ity of Glenwood Springs contains great numbers of
deer and an abundance of elk and bear. The Roar-
ing Fork, a succession of noisy rapids and cataracts
coursing down the timber-clad mountain-side, affords
excellent trout-fishing, and Trappers Lake is known
to thousands of gunners and fishermen, either by ex-
perience or by repute.
126
v..
SEVEN CASTLES AND RED ROCK CANON.
Leaving Glenwood Springs, the road runs by the
side of the Roaring Fork for twenty-five miles, to
Aspen Junction, at the confluence of the Frying Pan,
where a branch line diverges to the mining-camp
which is second in importance only to Leadville.
The Elk Mountains and colossal separate peaks
make a near horizon upon that side. Here the Roar-
ing Fork is abandoned in favor of its confluent, and
almost immediately the splendid cliffs called the
Seven Castles are seen. These are semi-detached
masses of red sandstone, varying in tint from a deli-
cate peachblow to dark red, and towering ponder-
ously above the little verdured valley of the Frying
Fan. They are the portals of Red Rock Caiion,
whose commonplace title covers a long stretch of
the most exquisite scenery ever encountered in a
narrow mountain-notch. The white flash of the
stream, interrupted here and there by still pools that
reflect the blue of the sky, marks an intricately wind-
ing upward path, disclosing at every turn new love-
liness of woodland bowers, above which glimmer
through evergreen-trees, or flush broadly with un-
obscured faces, the brilliant masses of the rock for-
mation.
HAGERMAN PASS.
Red granite clifrs follow, and scenes of widening
grandeur. Although for many miles the grade has
been steadily upward, the real ascent of the Hager-
man Pass now begins. This crossing of the Con-
tinental Divide is the loftiest railroad-pass in Amer-
ica. The Frying Pan shows the way nearly to the
summit, until its headwaters are reached at Loch
Ivanhoe, 11,000 feet above the sea. There is a far-
ther climb of 500 feet, then the train enters a long,
tunnel, and the Pacific Slope is past. When the
129 y>^
.^Mir«*fliailW
travcliT next sees tlic li;;lit of day a lonjj ilcscent of
the backhinic of the 1 )iviilc lies before him, to be
acconiplislieil liy means of loojis, trestles and other
scientific solutions of prndijrjoiisdiflieulties. Numer-
ous snow-sheds of heavy limbers cover points ex-
poscil to the avalanche or the drift of snows, and in
the winter season rotary snow-plows and a large
force of laborers are kept constantly on hand to pre-
vent any delay to travel.
In this unique descent of a seemingly impassable
barrier the grandest of mountain-views are inevitably
afforded. The wide detours necessitated by grade
and topography face in turn every point of the com-
pass, overhung by receding summits and looking off
through profound notches or along the vertiginous
downward-sweeping slopes to a world below. Alpine
travelers pay the price of extreme fatigue and imperil
their lives for the sensations of such an experience,
which for the American tourist is only an incident,
comfortably enjoyed without exertion or danger.
LEADVILLE.
Just beyond the foot of Hagerman Pass, upon the
swell of the mountain-flank, stands the great min-
ing-city, at an elevation of 10,000 feet. In April,
i860, the first gold-claims were staked out in Cali-
fornia Gulch, and within three months thereafter 10,-
000 miners had located there. Two claims are said to
have yielded $75,000 in the space of sixty days, and
single individuals are known to have been rewarded
by $100,000 for the work of one summer. In a lit-
tle more than a year the field was exhausted, nearly
$10,000,000 of the yellow metal having been carried
away. In the digging of ditches to facilitate the
washing of the auriferous gravel, masses of a heavy
black rock were so commonly encountered as to
prove a considerable annoyance, but they were
130
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i.
&^^-^.
- ^ ^ /\\^^^^-^Ng;^ ^U' //
131
\
thrown asiilc and forjjoitcn. These were the famous
silver carbonates, wliosc value was later revealed by
a merely curious assjiy; and the lirst body of carbon-
ate ore to be worked formed the entire mass of a cliff
in California Clulch which had been execrated by in-
numerable gold-diygers. The richest ores were not
amonjj the lirst to be developed, and prospecting
and small workings were increasingly carried on for
a series of years until, in 1878, two prospectors who
were " grub-staked " by Mr. Tabor (since Senator)
chanced to be crossing Fryer Hill and sat down to
imbibe casual refreshment from a jug of whisky. By
the time they had become satisfactorily refreshed all
kinds of ground looked alike to them, and in pure
imbecility, without the slightest justification, they be-
gan to dig where they had been sitting. They un-
covered the ore-body of the famous Little Pittsburg
mine, which, so exuberantly whimsical is occasional
chance, has since proved to be the only point on the
entire hill where the ledge approaches so near the sur-
face. Then ensued a second scramble of the multi-
tude for place in this marvelous treasure-region, and
the wildest excitement reigned. In the fourteen years
that have passed the carbonate ores have not been
exhausted; on the contrary, new finds are still of fre-
quent occurrence, and the city of Leadville is now
known to be underlaid with bodies of that ore. But
the carbonate era has probably passed its climax, and
is giving place to the sulphide era, millions of tons of
sulphide ores having already been blocked out in
Iron, Breece and Carbonate hills. The geological
position of the new ores promises even greater extent
and value than the carbonates have realized, although
they are less cheaply worked. And should the sul-
phides at length be exhausted no one can safely
prophesy that this extraordinarily versatile locality
will not present the world with some new compound
132
which on analysis shall prove unexpectedly rich in
precious metals.
The carbonate discovery revived the almost-de-
populated camp, and for the space of a few years
thereafter Leadville was nearly as notorious for law-
lessness and personal insecurity as for the richness
and number of its mines. That phase has been out-
lived; order, quiet and the refinements that belong
to a wealthy city in our day having long been per-
manently established. The tourist will, however,
find it distinctly individual and full of present inter-
est, and the wonderful romance of its past, which
reads like a tale of unbridled imagination, invests it
"with an imperishable glamour.
BUENA VISTA.
Stretching southward for thirty miles between the
Park and Saguache ranges, at an equal distance cast
from Leadville, lies an idyllic valley of the Arkan-
sas River. At the head of this valley stands Buena
Vista, like a Swiss village. Harvard, Yale and
Princeton mountains, each loftier than Pike's Peak,
rise close behind it upon the west, and upon the
south the white summits of the Sangre de Cristo
Range are discernible. The train follows the sweep
of a savage rocky salient half a thousand feet above
the valley, and the view is downward upon the white
town and over the far stretch of sunlit meadow, whose
penetrating beauty and perfect peace is enhanced by
the grandeur of the College Peaks, which from the
grass-grown and timbered slopes of their feet rise to
heights and forms of awful sublimity. Buena Vista
means in the Spanish a comprehensive outlook,
rather than a beautiful scene. It is a euphonious
name, and serves well enough in Colorado, where
among so much that is superlative one learns to be
temperate in the use of adjectives; but anywhere
133
else in the world this should have been Vista Gloriosn.
It is a peep of paradise, a lireani of a happy vale
where the blessed might dwell in joy forever.
^^yT^
GRANITF. CA^ON.
After leaving Buena Vista a ridge of 9,500 feet
elevation is crossed to the broad level meadows of
South Park, a fertile tract of not less than 1,500
square miles watered by the forks of the South Platte
River. One of these forks is followed to and through
an impressive gorge, eleven miles long, a narrow,
ruggedly picturesque channel sparsely timbered with
evergreen and walled by huge granite-cliffs. A tow-
ering rock-cone stands midway, and at the eastern
end lies the beautiful sheet of water known as Lake
George.
CRIPPLE CREEK.
The famous gold-camp lies eighteen miles south
from Divide, a station thirteen miles east of Granite
Canon, but tourists commonly find it convenient to
make the trip as one of the numerous excursions
from Manitou, twenty-two miles farther on. Between
Divide and Cripple Creek stages run daily, but a
134
(
«
135
raUroad-branch will shortly cover the distance. It
is an cxhiiaratinij niountain-ridc throujjh forests and
poryes, over hillsides ami alon^ pleasant intervales,
♦o an elevation of 10,000 feet, above which the
closely neij;hborinji Tike's Peak seems to shrink to
the small dijjnity of a wind-swept hill. It is such a
ride as the Western traveler commonly knew before
railroads relegated the stage to a very subordinate
function. The ponderous creaking Concord coach,
lumbering at the heels of half a dozen spirited horses
and driven by a veteran who reeks of border expe-
rience and reminiscence, is none too familiar to the
modern tourist. One finds it here, and it unmistak-
ably adds zest to the magnificent changing scenery.
There is no lack of passengers, and although the
talk is mainly of mines, and claims and prospects,
just as in other parts it is of the price of stocks or
lands, the high romance of a stage-ride in the Rock-
ies, which custom can not wither, soon sets this aside
for reminiscence and tales of adventure. Your
bronzed unpretentious companions have seen vicissi-
tude and know how to tell a story of dramatic or
humorous interest.
Fremont is believed to be the corporate name of
the Cripple Creek district, which includes three or
four aggregations of houses; but the spirit of a min-
ing-camp is against any but names of distinct flavor,
and Cripple Creek is sanctioned by common usage,
although Squaw Gulch, Poverty Gulch, Mound City
and Barry are distinguishing titles of immediate lo-
calities. The first glimpse of the scene is from the
summit of a last high hill. The topography is peace-
ful and somewhat English in type. Cattle and
burros graze on smooth-turfed slopes, and there is
no sign of rock save what has been excavated from
beneath the grass. It is the last place a tyro would
look for gold-lodes, and experienced prospectors
136
were long enough in finding it. The leads are all
blind, concealed like subterranean springs. Men
dig through the thin layer of soil, and drill and
blast the exposed ledge. Whether they shall stumble
upon an Anaconda mine, or after long and costly
labors possess only a sink-hole to catch the fall of
rain, is wholly a matter of speculation. The explo-
ration has been pursued with feverish energy, and
the green slopes are heaped with the debris of numer-
ous excavations until they resemble a scattered vil-
lage of gigantic prairie-dog homes. There are placer-
claims as well. Everybody in Cripple Creek owns a
claim, of the one sort or the other. Even the hotel
porter is no exception, and when he charges you
"two bits" for blacking your boots you perceive
with admiration that you are contributing to the cost
of his assessment-work, besides ameliorating the
nature of his employment by that scale of remunera-
tion.
137
The shops and houses of the main street have the
motley aspect that belongs to younj^ mining-towns, as
if they had been fragments cyclonically torn from
stime distant original anchorage, plumped down here
among tlie mountains, and preempted without any
effort at rearrangement or resuscitation. A coherent
structure here and there breaks tiie wild jumble of
discordant forms, ami a neatly painted sign or two
contrasts with the multitude of advertising-legends
that have been grotesquely lettereil by unskilled
hands. Yet the whole has pictorial charm, and it is
the inevitable phase of a purely speculative commu-
nity, every member of which hopes at no distant
time in the future to turn back upon this primitive
life, more or less a Croesus. They are but pilgrims
here, heaven is their home. And they have no time
to squander, no means or energy to waste, upon
refinements in such an hour.
Naturally there is no restriction upon saloons or
gambling-houses; and in the dance-halls, that open
directly from the street, gallants waltz with cigar in
mouth, and between the numbers their partners do
not disdain the refreshment of whisky straight.
Yet the town is singularly free from boisterousness
and violence, even after dark, when the stranger
must fairly grope his way, and the neighborhood of
the really first-class hotel around the corner is silent
and peaceful. The wildest period in the history of
a mining-camp is the first few months of its notoriety.
Desperadoes and adventurers of every sort are at-
tracted by the high fever that marks the earliest
stage, only to depart when the recklessness of the
scramble for place has given way to legitimate devel-
opment of the relatively few valuable finds. The
actual prosperity is not measured by excitement, or
inflated population.
138
^^'^^ ■•■■ "....;:
Of the twelve or fifteen thousand who in the space
of a few months thronged to the two lonely ranches
on Cripple Creek, perhaps one-third have remained;
but of these,' the number who w'ill win their wager
must prove pathetically small, although not a few
mines of enormous determined value and many claims
of great promise have been discovered.
There is no hazard so seductive and inspiriting as
that of seeking a mine, but there is a bleak and piti-
ful side to it all, as may occur to you in the occasional
anguished intervals of the night when you hear a
Cripple Creek jackass pour out the impassioned mel-
ody of his soul. " Haw . . . / E-haw . . !
E-haw! E-haw . . . /"he cries; poor devil of a
poet blurting a strident night-piece through hiy
Punchinello visage; or Mephistophelian commenta»
tor on the vanity of vanities; or what you will.
PIKE S PEAK REGION.
After Divide comes in rapid succession that extraor-
dinary series of resorts which every year, between
June and September, attracts unnumbered thousands
of visitors. The list is included in a distance of
twenty five miles along an eastward slope from 8,500
down to 6,000 feet elevation, and while each differs
in individual allurements, all alike are characterized
by transparent exhilarating air, vivid tones of verdure
and myriad flowers, streams, waterfalls, small lakes,
fountains, forests, red rock-sculptures, gorges and
mountains, always mountains, leading the eye pro-
gressively to their kingly peak; by white tents in the
shade of pines and aspens, neat hamlets and esthetic
caravansaries hugging Cyclopean walls; by fashion-
able equipages, equestrians and an animated holiday
throng on foot; and by a buoyant breadth which all
the multitude cannot crowd or oppress. Our route
leads consecutively through Woodland Park, Mani-
i''<lW^7^
toil Park, Green Mountain Falls, Ute Park, Cascade
Caftiiii, Manitou ami Coloiailo Sprinjjs, by way of
lie I'ass, tl>e olil stajje-routc and thoroughfare of
westward-faciny fortune-liunters through the heart
of tlio Rockies. Woodiaiul I'ark stands at the iiead
of tlie pass, and offers the noblest view of Tike's Peak
obtainable f.om the ///(•.>./. Manitou Park (not to be
confounded with Manitou proper) is reached by way
of Woodland Park, the nearest railway station, a
four-in-hand Concord stage-coach conveying the vis-
itor over the interval of six miles. Here accommo-
dations are provided on the cottage system, with a
centrally located casino in which are the public din-
ing-rooms, parlors, and the like. Green Mountain
Falls is one of the loveliest of the group. In the
heart of the beautiful valley is a lake surrounded by
hotels and an annual encampment of tourists in
tents and cottages. Mountain-terraces, with brill-
iant outlooks, cascades tumbling over the cliffs, and
a thousand retreats in gorge and grove, make up its
special charms. Ute Park is another mountain-mead-
ow, fringed by the forest and tucked snugly up
against precipitous slopes, along whose base, through
the shadow of spruce and pine, a boulevard extends.
It is called the Eden of the Pass. At Cascade Caiion
the mountain-stream descends 2,000 feet in a dis-
tance of three-quarters of a mile, by a series of falls
through a gorge that is filled with the odor of wild
flowers. At this point begins the carriage-road to
the summit of the peak.
With such categorical mention must these five
idyllic resorts be dismissed, each of which is worthy
of lengthy description, to find space for the two more
celebrated which remain.
140
?*^
Descending the Ute Pass by waj' of winking rock-
tunnels, by trestles and canon brinks and bottoms,
past the successive bits of wonderland already speci-
fied and innumerable ravishing glimpses of forest-
girt mountain and stream, you come to Manitou, a
spot of such supernal beauty that even the Utes rose
to the height of poetic appreciation and named it
after the Great Spirit. Placed at the very foot of the
terrible Peak, in the opening of the mountain-notch
upon the broad plateau, every essence of interior land-
scape loveliness is showered upon it. It is without
a flaw, a superlative thing unpicturable to those who
know only the plains or the shores of the sea; a
Titania's bower of melting sweetness amid Nature's
savagest throes. Marvels are thickly clustered.
There are grottoes hung with stalactites and banked
with moss-like beds of gleaming crystal-filaments,
springs tinctured with iron, springs effervescent with
soda, plains serried with huge isolated rock-sculpt-
ures, narrow gorges where at the bottom of hun-
dreds of feet of shadow is scant passage-way, long
perpendicular lines of white foaming torrent, and soft
blending flames of color from rosy rock and herbage
and flower.
The waters of the Soda Springs are walled in the
middle of a dainty park in the heart of the village,
at night an incandescent lamp gleaming upward
through their bubbling depths. Millions of gallons
are exported, but something of the living sparkle on
the tongue is lost in separation from the surcharged
fount. Here it is more exuberantly crisp and re-
freshing than that of the artificial compound which,
in Eastern cities, presides over the counter most dear
to the feminine heart. The flow is unstinted, and
is free to all. The Iron Springs are upon the hill-
141
/i.iv»
side, within easy strolling-distance. Both are dis-
tinctly bcnclicial to healtli, and are frequented l)y a
merry multitude throuj^hout the day and early nijjht.
t'lrand Caverns and the Caveof the Windsare near
nciglibors, diviiled by a single ridge and doubtless
intercommunicating by undiscovered passages. Both
are elevateil far above the town, the approach to the
one climbing past the Rainbow Falls along a steep
slope that looks off across the entrancing landscape
of the valley to the mountain background, the other
opening in the side of Williams Caiion, through the
notch of whose magnificent upreaching walls there
is at one point a sharp turn where an unskillful driver
could hardly hope to pass without grazing a wheel.
It must have been a critical place in the old days
when stages were "held up," for the miscalculation
of an inch would have meant catastrophe, in the wake
of plunging horses. The two caves are very similar,
narrow underground corridors opening into a series
of high-vaulted chambers hung with stalactites and
glittering in magnesium ligiit like the jewel-caves of
the Arabian Nights. The floors are dry, but through
the limestone walls fine moisture oozes, depositing
the stalagmite in strange and often esthetic forms,
in addition to the pendent icicles of rock. There
are striking suggestions of intelligible statuary, and
innumerable imitations of natural objects, animal
and vegetable. There is the Grand Organ, really a
natural xylophone, a cluster of stalactites of varying
proportions upon which entire tunes are played with
appro.ximate accuracy, with occasional tones that are
as mournfully impressive as a midnight-bell. Jewel
Casket, Concert Hall, Bridal Chamber and the like
are names bestowed upon different compartments,
and numberless particular formations have individual
titles. Grand Caverns and the Cave of the Winds
each requires at least an hour for the most casual
142
I
M' I
143
exploration. Thousands of visitinp-cards have been
left u[y.m the walls.
.\ park of 500 acres covered with protnulinjj rock-
fiyiircs of striking form anil beauty constitutes the
Cianien of the Gods. The names applied to these
suj;^estive forms of sandstone and gypsum describe
their eccentric appearance. Toadstools, Mushroom
Park, Hedgehog, Ant Kater, Lizard, Turtle, Ele-
phant, Lion, Camels, American Eagle, Seal and Bear,
Sphinx, Siamese Twins, Flying Dutchman, Irish
Washerwoman, Punch, Judy and Baby, Lady of the
Clarden, Three Graces, Stage Coach, and Graveyard
are a few. There are others which rise to the dig-
nity of pure grandeur. Pictures of the Gateway, a
magnificent portal 330 feet high, and of Cathedral
Spires and Balanced Rock have been admired all over
the world. Here, as elsewhere in the West, beyond
the eastern bounds of Colorado and New Mexico,
color is an element of charm in landscape even
greater than contour. These rocks are white and
yellow and red, and in the crystalline air, that
scorns a particle of haze, the scene is indescribably
clear and sharp to the eye, and as vivid as an enthu-
siastic water-color. Drawings in black-and-white
inadequately communicate them to a reader.
Contiguous to the Garden of the Gods lies Glen
Eyrie, the private estate of General Palmer, covering
1,300 acres. This is open to the public except on
Sunday. Queen Canon, fourteen miles long, the
Major Domo, cliffs of blazing color, and tree-em-
bowered drives and green-houses are attractive feat-
ures of Glen Eyrie.
ASCENT OF pike's PEAK.
The majesty of the Rocky Mountains can not be
beckoned wholly into intimacy. There is a quality
that holds unbendingly aloof from fellowship, if not
144
from perfect comprehension. The sea is sympathet-
ic in moods. Soul-quaking in tumult, it softens to
moments of superficial loveliness that would have
you forget the murderous hunger that lies the length
of your stature under wave. Not so the mountain-
peaks. They are the sublimest personalities known
to earth ; the hugeous, towering imperturbable. They
joy not, lament not, rage not. The chill seclian of
upper air and the roar of distant avalanche do not
stir the profundity of their rapt contemplation. Pale,
austere, passionless, and effable in grandeur, they
rise like an apotheosis of pure intellect over the spheres
of confused emotion; or, if you like it better, they
stand for lofty spiritual reach. It augurs well of
man that he can endure their proximity. A nation of
mountaineers should be unequaled in the qualities of
virtue, intrepidity and clarity of brain. Tlie legend
of William Tell, though but a legend, is a true ex-
pression of the spirit of the people of Switzerland,
that brooks no fetter of tyranny. And you will fear,
not love, the mountains if you have not heights within
145
■^
to match them. So every genuine lover of a topmost
pinnacle lias somethinji sterling in him. From the
knot of excursionists you will see him steal away to
he albnc in the solemn exaltation of the iiour.
'I'iiere are many summits in Colorado more ele-
v.iteil than Pike's Peak, hut they are difiicult. and
the difTerence in height is not appreciable in effect.
Here you are lifted above the clouds so far that the
world lies remote beneath the eye, the neighboring
towns and cities shrunk to insignificance. \'ast is
the panorama outspread to view. The plain is grown
indefinite and unsubstantial, like a subilued picture
floating in the sky; but beyond the ranges are piled,
tier on tier, peak after peak, white-draped or dun in
a haze of blue. The storm sweeps below, its forked
lightnings under foot, its rumble of thunder echoing
faintly up through the thin cold air; and while bois-
terous deluge rolls over valley and plain you stand
like Phcebus in hischariot of morn, bathed in radiance.
And there is an hour of incommunicable splendor,
when the sun rises gleaming like a burnished yellow
moon through dark cloud-wrappings on the rim of
fading night, and again when it sinks behind tlie
fierce tumbled mountain-chain, gilding the peaks
with ruddy fire the while dusk spreads beneath like
a silent submerging sea.
The ascent, for very many years, wasoftener talked
of than attempted. Zebulon Pike himself failed, in
1806, and half a century passed after that before the
first trail was cut, from old Summit Park, a dozen
miles west of Manitou. That trail was little used,
because of its difficulties and dangers. In the sev-
enties three additional trails were constructed, and in
iSSg the carriage-road from Cascade was completed.
In i8qi the Cog-\Vheel Railway began operation,
running directly from ^lanitou to the summit, and
accomplishing that feat in a distance of nine miles.
146
././■
^A
The steepest grade on the road is one foot in four.
It starts near the Iron Springs, at the mouth of En-
gleman's Canon, and makes the round trip in four
and a half hours, allowing a stop of forty minutes on
the peak. Several trains are run daily, in the open
season, and, moreover, accommodations for the night
can be had in the old Signal Station, which has been
made over into a tavern. To those who desire to
obtain the crowning experience in the easiest manner
and in the shortest possible time, the ascent by rail
is recommended. Many, however, prefer the greater
personal freedom and the fuller enjoyment of scenes
by the way offered by the carriage-road from Cascade.
Although that is sixteen miles long, it has ample re-
wards for all its fatigues.
The altitude of Pike's Peak is 14,147 feet above
sea-level, and its height above the starting-point of
the Cog-Wheel Railway in Manitou is 7,518 feet.
The altitude of Mount Washington, in New Hamp-
shire, is 6,293 feet, that of the Rigi, in Switzerland,
5,832 feet, and of the Jungfrau, 13,667 feet, above
the sea.
COLORADO SPRINGS.
Closely backed by the Rockies, whose eastern
contour is a protecting semicircle that opens to the
Great Plains, this pretty city stands upon a level floor,
divided by broad tree-shaded avenues into squares as
regular as those of a chess-board, which it strongly
resembles when viewed from the slopes and pinnacle
of Pike's Peak. There are attractive drives in every
direction, out upon the plains, through the canons
and up the mountain-sides. Only six miles distant
from Manitou, with which it is connected by an elec-
tric street-railway in additio" to the steam-railroad,
and similarly joined to Broadmoor Casino and Chey-
enne Canon upon the other hand, Colorado Springs
147
IN pt'i haps the most fashionable and most populous
< i| the s|H"cial resorts of Colorailo. 1 1 is a city of homes
1)1 the wealthy, witii some l2,oi>o inhabitants.
1 he Casino at Hroadmoor is an attractive rendez-
vous near the mouth of Cheyenne Canon, by the side
of a pretty lake, where almost nijtjhtiy a brilliant illu-
mination may be seen anil the sounds of music and
gaiety heard.
A little beyond Piroadmocr the car-line ends at
the foot of the canon, whose approach lies between
a swelling grass-covered rise upon tiie one hand and
a shrubby hillside upon the other. Mere begins a
comfortable carriage-road, and conveyances and bur-
ros are procurable. The road gradually ascends
through groves of evergreen and deciduous trees,
crossing and recrossing a clear mountain-stream by
rustic bridges, on through the gateway of the Pillars
of Hercules into a defile where rock-walls rise many
hundred feet overhead, and needles, spires, cones,
and irregular crags lift head above and behind one
another, some bleakly bare, some fringed with shrubs
and trees, prodigious rocks serrying the mountain-
side to heights where details of form are lost to the
eye and only broad effects of color and ebb and
swell are intelligible. The carriage-road leads direct-
ly to the foot of Seven Falls, to whose head the vis-
itor may climb by a long stairway. A short distance
below the falls a circuitous narrow trail diverges
toward the left from the carriage-road, up which
burros are ridden to the upper level, where one can
look down upon this entire series of brilliant cas-
cades. Arrived here many diverging paths invite
the visitor. The log-cabin where Helen Hunt Jack-
son loved to spend much of her time in summer is
at hand, and the former site of her grave, marked
by a huge heap of stones, may be reached by a steep
path to the left. Glens and rocky eminences, bushy
148
retreats by the side of the streams, and fern and
flower decked banks entice to farther exploration.
Day after day many return to the fresh beauties of
the spot, each time discovering some new delight
among the thousand charms of the mountain-wilds.
DENVER.
To visit Denver involves a side excursion from
Colorado Springs, the distance being seventy-hve
miles. It is a queen among fair cities, standing upon
a broad elevated plain with mountain horizons.
These mountains are sometimes white ramparts of
unearthly beauty, and there is an ever-shifting play of
h'ght and shadow upon them. Its enormous smelters,
with towering smoke-vomiting stacks, can not seri-
ously deface its beauty, and themselves are an in-
teresting and instructive sight, for $25,000,000 of
gold and silver are there extracted from Rocky
Mountain ores every year.
The Queen City of the Plains has periods of win-
ter cold and snow, but commonly the air is delight-
fully temperate when Eas.ern cities are ice-bound
and shivering. Almost every part of Denver can be
quickly visited by electric or cable street-cars.
149
VIII.
HOMEWARD.
[[ORTY miles below Colorado Springs, in
the Arkansas Valley, thirty miles east
from the mountains, stands Pueblo, an-
other city of smelters, and of immense
steel, iron, and copper works. Here is the Colorado
Mineral Palace, a iarj^e and costly auditorium of
modernized Egyptian architecture, whose domes are
supported by gilded columns, around whose bases
are arranged plate-glass cases filled with choice
specimens of Colorado minerals, which constitute
the most valuable collection of minerals in the world.
It is open every day to vistors.
Si.xty miles east from Pueblo one comes again to
La Junta, the junction-point in Southeastern Col-
orado which was passed on the outward journey.
From this point to Chicago and St. Louis the scenes
would be familiar except for the fact that many lo-
calities which were formerly passed in the night are
now seen by day.
The marvels of the West, however, have now
been left behind, and the tourist may be expected
to be absorbed in pleasurable anticipation of his
home-coming. He returns not as he departed, for
such a journey as that which now draws near its
close possesses an emphatic educating value. He
150
knows definitely now about those features of our
Western empire whicli before were to him a vague
imagining, inadequately, and perhaps wrongly, con-
ceived.
And, not the least valuable of human acquisitions,
henceforward he will have a story.
^'li'/fiiof*'^
151
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