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TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK
IN AN EIGHTEEN-TONNER
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TO
GIBRALTAR AND BACK
IN
AN EIGHTEEN-TONNER
BY
ONE OF THE CREW
WITH CHART, ILLUSTRATIONa FROM SKETCHES BY BARLOW MOORE,
AND PHOTOGRAPHS
LONDON
W. H. ALLEN & CO., 13 WATERLOO PLACE, S.W.
)PuiiItsi|n» to tf)e Sniita ^Witt
1888
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HARVARD
UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY
Printtd ^ R. & R. Clark. Edinburgh,
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PREFACE
A BRIEF account of this trip first appeared in
Hunt's Yachting Magazine in 1886 and 1887.
It has been brought out in this form at the
express wish of my kind friend, Mr. Corry — ^the
owner of the Chiripa — with whom I have made
many a pleasant. cruise, but none more delightful
than our cruise to Gibraltar and back. I take
this opportunity of expressing my best thanks to
Mr. Underbill for the chart which he has drawn
for me, showing the actual course we took ; and to
Mr. Barlow Moore for his spirited sketches, taken
from my descriptions, which, with Mr. Underhill's
chart and the Commodore's photographs, are
the only features of the book worthy of notice.
ONE OF THE CREW.
Temple, 1888.
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INTRODUCTION
" Mind, you must all come and dine with me
when you come back," were the last words we
heard as, amid waving of hats and handkerchiefs,
we steamed out of Charing Cross Station, in the
night mail, on April the 6th, 1885.
We, a friend whom I will call Mac, and self,
were on our way to join a mutual friend, Mr.
Corry — better known to us as the Commodore —
at Dover, where he expected to arrive on the
following morning in his yacht the Ckiripa,
After a long illness, he had been ordered by
his doctors to take a two months* holiday, and he
had asked Mac, Mr. Underbill, and myself to join
him in a cruise along the coasts of Spain and
Portugal, as it was much too early in the season
to think of going anywhere else.
Though this involved crossing the dreaded
Bay at a bad time of the year and in a small boat,
we had all too much confidence in the Chiripds
B
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capabilities — having sailed in her before — to
hesitate about availing ourselves of such a splendid
opportunity of getting away from England in the
spring. The yacht was ordered to be ready by
the second of April, and the original plan was for
us all to start from Aldeburgh, where she was laid
up ; but the usual delays took place, and when the
Commodore eventually went down, Underbill and
I were unable to accompany him, so Mac decided
to join with me at Dover, and it was arranged
that Underbill should meet us at Plymouth.
It was the fact that we contemplated crossing
the Bay direct, instead of coasting, which had
brought our friends down to the station to take,
as they thought, a fond and last farewell. Fool-
hardy had been the mildest term applied to us
by our friends and acquaintances when the cruise
was decided upon, and the way in which our
tradesmen sent in their bills when they got wind
of it, made us most anxious to get well away on
the waves which never cease from troubling, but
where the debtor is at rest.
It was bitterly cold when we arrived at Dover,
and when we found that there was a heavy sea
running and the wind blowing fresh, we con-
gratulated ourselves on being well out of it, and
retired to rest feeling sure that we need not
trouble the " boots " to call us extra early the
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IN AN EIGHTEEN-TONNER
next morning. The prospect we had from the
Lord Warden when we came down to breakfast
on the following day was certainly anything but in-
viting. The sky was dull and threatening ; there
was a nasty soaking drizzle, and the sea seemed
to have got up still more in the night, and was
lashing itself into fury against the Admiralty
Pier, sending clouds of spray over it and over
the sea wall opposite the hotel, sprinkling the
windows of the coffee-room with salt water.
With the exception of one tiny boat far out at
sea, which at the time I took for a fishing smack,
not a sail could be seen. We heard that the
volunteers were having a field day somewhere in
the neighbourhood, but the weather was not
sufficiently tempting to induce us to venture out,
so having laid in a store of literature, we retired
to the smoking-room for the rest of the morning,
as we had given up all hope of seeing the Chiripa
till late in the afternoon. We had, however, only
just finished lunch, when we spied her coming into
the harbour, with topmast struck, reefed bowsprit,
small jib, three reefs down in the mainsail, and
dinghy on deck, which gave us a very good idea
of the dusting she had had. It turned out that
the boat had arrived off Dover early in the morn-
ing, but as the Commodore could not get her into
the basin in consequence of the tide, he stood
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right out again, as he found there was less sea
outside the pier than in the Wick. We were
soon on board, and found the cabin in a nice state
of confusion. A few pieces of the swinging lamp
still remained to show where it had been, while
boots, newspapers, and matchboxes were floating
about in the water, which had found its way down
the companion and fo'castle hatch, through the
skylights, and covered the cabin floor.
Nothing put out by these little discomforts,
the Commodore was making a big lunch. Seated
alongside of him was a hungry-looking fox-terrier
pup— a parting gift from the worthy proprietor
of the East Suffolk Hotel, Aldeburgh — who was
taking the deepest interest in the performance;
while a friend who had agreed to take Underbill's
place as far as Plymouth was hurriedly packing
up. "What ! not hungry after your sail ?" I said.
" No, I'm off"," was the reply. " But you are surely
not going to leave now ?" " Oh yes, I am, my
boy ! I tell you what it is : I don't mind cold by
itself, I don't mind rain by itself, I don't mind wet
by itself, and I don't so much mind being sick,
but when you get all these things together, it's not
good enough. I tell you what it is, it's not the
weather for yachting." He was as good as his
word, and went up to town by the very next train,
after taking a most touching farewell.
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The Chiripa is a cutter of i8 tons, classed at
Lloyd's A I, fifteen years. Her dimensions are : —
Length over all, 5 2 ft 6 in. ; length on water-line,
44 ft. 3 in. ; beam, 10 ft 5 in.; depth, 7 ft 6 in.;
greatest freeboard, 4 ft. ; least freeboard, 2 ft 3 in.
Considering that the area of her lower sail is only
1430 feet, she is exceptionally heavily sparred,
her mast being 11^ in., and her boom 7^ in. in
diameter. She was built by Messrs. Ogilvie and
Co., 1884, from her owner's designs, and went
straight off the slips to Christiansand, the work-
men who were still engaged on her going ashore
at the mouth of the river in a boat which they
had towing behind. This, with the exception of
a trip down the Channel on her return from
Norway, was practically her second cruise. She
makes up five berths without counting the fore-
castle, i£. owner's cabin, one ; two in the main
cabin, and two in the ladies*. The owner's cabin
was not used on this cruise, as it was piled up
with stores, spare sails, etc. She is very dry,
wonderfully handy, and about as good a little
cruiser as can be found.
Her best run in the 24 hours on her outward
journey was 154 miles, and homeward bound 171.
It is only fair to say that the spinnaker was left
behind, and these runs were done under jib, fore-
sail, and mainsail alone. The crew consisted of
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the owner — alias the Commodore — who holds a
master's certificate, Orvis, who acts as master
when the Commodore is not on board, Jack, and
a cabin boy, Arthur.
Next morning the clocks on shore were just
striking 4 as we passed through the gates. There
was very little wind outside, but it breezed up
during the day, and we had fresh winds, shifty
from N.N.E., down to Plymouth. Two reefs
down in the mainsail the whole way. As the
Commodore had made up his mind that his
twelve-foot wooden dinghy, which by the way had
already been damaged on the journey from Alde-
burgh, was not only inconvenient on deck, but
also very dangerous in rough weather, he decided
to put into Southampton and buy a Berthon
collapsible boat ; accordingly we ran into South-
ampton about 1 1.30 A.M., on Wednesday morning,
and had left our own boat and got the new Berthon
on board by 9 in the evening.
We got under-way next morning at 6 o'clock,
and brought up at Plymouth, inside the Cattwater,
at I P.M. on Friday. Anything so cold as the
weather we had after leaving Dover none of us
had ever experienced. Orvis went so far as to say
that he had never felt it so cold in the North Sea.
I only know that although I was wearing a double
allowance of underclothing, two suits of clothes
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IN AN EIGHTEEN'TONNER
and a thick muffler, I could not manage to keep
warm.
After sending a telegram to Underbill, we spent
the rest of the day over the fire in the smoking-
room at the hotel, trying to thaw our frozen
limbs. Underbill came on board at 6 o'clock
on Saturday morning, and made such a terrific
noise that, seeing no chance of being allowed
to go to sleep again, we reluctantly turned out,
and while Mac was still grumbling, he was formally
introduced to the disturber of our repose, whom he
had not met before. The best part of the day
was spent in getting the topmast on deck, taking
down the cross-trees, and making all snug for
crossing the Bay. In the evening the Commodore
divided us into two watches ; himself, Underbill,
and Jack taking the starboard watch, while Mac,
Orvis, and I were in the port watch. As we had
plenty of stores of all kinds on board, including a
medicine chest, which, I am happy to say, was
only once called into use, we were under no
restrictions except as regarded water.
The Chiripds tanks only holding 250 gallons,
we were forbidden to use fresh water for drinking
or washing purposes. This order, more especially
as regarded the first part, met with everybody's
most cordial approval and was strictly obeyed.
The weather being so cold, the fresh meat we took
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on board at Plymouth lasted till we got to Vigo,
and it was only on the passage from Tangiers to
Lisbon that we were obliged to have recourse to
our tinned things ; the salt beef was always
preferred.
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CHAPTER I
Sunday, i2TH April. — It was a decided treat to
come on deck and find the sun had emerged from
his retreat and was shining brightly, this being the
first glimpse we had had of him since leaving Dover.
Unfortunately there was very little wind, scarcely
sufficient to shake out the burgee, so the Com-
modore amused himself and tortured us by taking a
more or less — according to the light in which the
unfortunate sufferers look at it — successful photo-
graph of the Corinthian crew.
Shortly after 8 the anchor was weighed and
catted, sail got on her, and we drifted gently out
of the Cattwater, past the Hoe, where as yet very
few people were to be seen, past the breakwater,
and we were off.
There was no more wind outside and we did
not pass Rame Head till lo A.M. Our course
was then laid for the Lizard, from which point we
meant to take our departure.
About noon the log was hauled, and we found
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lo TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK
we had only run 1 5 miles. The log was set again,
heaved over the counter, and the men went below
to their dinners. Presently the Commodore, who
was steering, called out to somebody to ease the
foresheet I was very comfortable and did not
offer to move, so Mac got up and was strolling
forward in his usual leisurely manner, when
Underbill raced by him, and by the time Mac
had reached the shrouds the order had been
carried out Mac's face, when he saw, to his
intense astonishment, that his services were not
required, and that the new-comer knew as much
as he did, was a study, and when he had recovered
from his surprise and said to Underbill in a deeply
injured tone of voice, " How the did you
know which was the foresheet?" we simply
screamed with laughter.
The wind remained light all day, and it was
not till 2 on Monday morning that we made
the Lizard, and formally took our departure, laying
our course S.W.^S.
The wind, south-east, freshening up, we bowled
along merrily. " On, on the vessel flies, the land
is gone, and winds are rude in Biscay's sleepless
Bay."
Next day at noon the Commodore was below
working out the reckoning, and Mac was doing
his spell at the tiller, when the Commodore called
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IN AN EIGHTEEN' TONNE R 1 1
up the companion, " How's the wind, Mac ?"
•* D cold," was the prompt but useless reply.
On Wednesday the wind, which had shifted
from W.N.W. to W.b.S., freshened considerably
and a very nasty sea got up. At 7 P.M. we
shifted jibs and took in a couple of reefs. Directly
this job was over I went below, as it was not my
watch, and it was decidedly damp and unpleasant
on deck.
I turned in all standing, having only removed
my oileys, but what with the various noises, as
every now and again a sea struck the little vessel
with a force which seemed to stop her and make
her tremble all over, the crash of a wave as it
came on board causing you to think for a moment
that the decks were stove in, till you heard the
swish of the water as it tore aft, and the unearthly
groaning and moaning of the bulkheads and
ceiling, sleep was impossible. At 1 1 Mac and
I were called up to help in taking in the third
reef, and when we came on deck we found the
wind had shifted again to S.W.b.W. It was now
blowing very hard, and as every now and then
she would give a fearful lurch, we found it almost
impossible to keep our legs without holding on.
It was no easy matter taking in this third reef, as
the boat was rolling about in a most uncanny
way. When we had hold of the tackle we had
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to wait till she was fairly steady and then all pull
together; then the roll when the heavy boom
would take charge of us, and swinging us over
skylights and companion, deposit us in the lee
scuppers, still holding on to the tackle like grim
death. This amusement was repeated so often,
that by the time we had got the reef made fast
I don't think any one of us had escaped without
a varied assortment of bumps and bruises.
In one of the worst of these lurches Mac, who
had gone forward with Underbill to take a pull
on the peak halliards, suddenly let go his hold,
slipped up, and was literally brought up standing
by the bulwarks, but not content with that, he
was in the act of taking a somersault backwards
over the ridge rope — which the Commodore had
luckily had rigged before the start — when Under-
bill seized him by his oileys, and lugged him out
of danger. After this the Commodore ordered
him below, an order which he obeyed with delight-
ful alacrity.
By this time we had got the boat pretty snug,
so we invaded the cabin, as we all felt we stood
in need of a dose of rum, for to add to our dis-
comforts it was a horribly cold night We found
Mac had made his bed on the cabin floor — as he
could not have stopped in his bunk — and was
lying down smoking contentedly.
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I
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IN AN EIGHTEEN-TONNER 13
When I returned on deck, as I got to the top
of the companion, I turned round as usual and
looked forward. Judge of my horror when I saw
a slate-coloured wall of water fringed with white
coming straight towards us. To me it seemed
higher than our mast, and as it drew nearer I
held my breath and instinctively grasped the top
of the companion with both hands and held on
with all my might. Nearer and nearer, and then
we were climbing it merrily.
Once on top, the Ckiripa gave herself a little
shake and pluckily dived down the other side.
After that I didn't care, as, if that wave couldn't
sink her, I felt that nothing — short of a steamer
—could. The wind kept increasing, and at 2
A.M. it was screaming through the rigging as if in
mortified rage that it could do us no harm.
One moment we would be in the trough of the
waves — with a wall of black water all round us —
and the next moment we would be looking down
on them fighting and foaming in all directions as
far as the eye could see.
At 2.30 A.M. it was blowing a whole gale.
The wind had shifted round to the north, so we
hove to with foresail stowed, and I turned in.
Next morning the storm abated, though there was
still a heavy sea running. The wind, however,
had come round to north-east, so we scudded.
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All Thursday we had a very heavy sea, and
were obliged to keep three reefs down. The
cabin lamp, which had been replaced at Dover,
was again smashed, and it was impossible to
keep anything on the swinging table.
Cape Finisterre was sighted at 5.30 on Friday
morning, and the worst part of our journey
was over: we had crossed the Bay. As it got
later the wind dropped, the sky cleared, and
the sun came out and helped to dry us after
our wet passage. It was a lovely day, and the
waves in the bright sunlight seemed vastly dif-
ferent to what they were during the storm on
Wednesday and Thursday. Now they were a
beautiful transparent green crowned with masses
of snow-white foam, and they appeared to be
frolicking about in wanton enjoyment. We were
thoroughly enjoying ourselves, smoking and bask-
ing in the sun, when we made out a large steam
yacht coming towards us, though from the course
she was steering it was clear she would not come
close ; presently, much to our amazement, she
altered her course and bore straight down for
us. She turned out to be an English yacht,
but we did not recognise her burgee ; we dipped
flags, and hoped they would report us at home.
Going in by the North Channel, we opened Vigo
Bay at 3.45, and running free, with
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IN AN EIGHTEEN'TONNER
" A wet sheet and a flowing sail,
A wind that follows fast,"
we went skimming up the Bay. Just then we
noticed that Mac — whose usual position on deck,
when not on duty, was a reclining one — was
standing forward with the glasses riveted on
some object ahead. Thinking it might be a buoy,
the Commodore, who was steering, cried out,
"What is it, Mac?"— "Oh! all right, don't
bother!" — "What the dickens are you staring
at ? " This time with an exclamation of fervent
joy the glasses were shut up, and Mac came aft.
" IVe found it," he proudly said. — "Found what?"
— ^" Why, the hotel of course. There it is, that
large white building on the right, * Hotel Con-
tinental.' I say. Commodore," he continued, " I
suppose we shall dine on shore to-night." — " Cer-
tainly," was the reply, " if we get pratique." That
was enough for Mac ; he immediately dived below
to make himself beautiful, and we did not see
him again till the pratique boat came alongside.
We excited considerable interest as we passed
close to what appeared to be the commencement
of an iron jetty, and the workmen gladly sus-
pended operations to look at the tiny boat flying
an English flag. Sailing clear of all the vessels
and dipping to the solitary Spanish man-of-war,
we let go the anchor in seven fathoms of water
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1 6 TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK
at 5.30. The health boat was soon alongside,
but much to our disgust refused us pratique, as
unfortunately we had come away without a bill
of health.
Mac's disappointment — as he had been look-
ing forward to having a good dinner at last —
ought to have affected us to tears, but I am sorry
to say it only provoked our laughter. The boat
went away, the officer kindly promising to see
what he could do for us, and as there was no
chance of getting on shore that evening, we had
to sit down and make the best of it, Mac in his
shore-going clothes looking rather out of place.
However, we had a merry time of it, and many
a bottle of beer was cracked in honour of our — so
far — successful trip.
About 9 the boat came back, and we were
delighted to see the officers come on board, as
we then knew it was all right All the Com-
modore had to do was to sign a declaration that
everybody on board was in good health, and had
been so when we left England.
The officers inquired if we had not had rather
a bad crossing, and seemed considerably surprised
at our ever having attempted the passage. After
they had gone we came on deck, had a final pipe,
and turned in early, delighted with the thought
that instead of a wretched nap of four hours, we
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IN AN EIGHTEEN' TONNER 1 7
could indulge in the luxury of a good square
sleep of at least twelve. When we came on
deck next morning we found the bumboat man
had already been alongside, and had left a basket
containing oranges, apples, and last, though not
least, some fresh fish, eggs and milk, luxuries
which one thoroughly appreciates when one has
been deprived of them for a few days. How
'many oranges we each of us consumed before
breakfast I should be ashamed now to confess,
but under the circumstances gluttony was ex-
cusable.
We seemed to have jumped from winter into
summer. " The day was fair and sunny : sea
and sky drank its inspiring radiance," and not a
ripple disturbed the water ; the poor weather-
beaten burgee floated listlessly at the masthead,
and the ensign hung in heavy folds over the
counter. It was a morning to make you throw
off your clothes and bask luxuriously in the
sun, while you feasted your eyes on Jhe lovely
prospect. The houses with their eastern-looking
latticed balconies rising one above 'the other on
terraces facing the water, and the blue hills on
the other side of this lovely bay standing out
sharp and clear in the bright sun, made a picture
which only an artist could portray. While we
were thus enjoying ourselves, some one asked,
C
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«* What more could you want ? " " Breakfast ! "
was the Commodore's unsentimental reply. At
that moment it was announced, and forgetting
all about the sunshine and scenery, we promptly
tumbled below.
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CHAPTER II
Directly after breakfast we went ashore, and,
under the guidance of our bumboat man, found
the telegraph-office and sent messages off to our
friends.
Vigo is so well known that I need say nothing
further about it, except that we were charmed
with its quaint, narrow streets, which opened
suddenly upon some funny little squares, from
some of which queer, narrow tunnelled passages
led down to the water, through which from time
to time you got a charming view of the Bay.
We were especially fortunate, as it was ap-
parently a market-day, and the bright coloured
head-dresses of the women and the men's brilliant
costumes lent colouring to what was already a
picturesque scene.
We called on the English Consul, who turned
out to be a Spaniard. He had already heard
of our little difficulty about the bill of health.
He was most obliging, and sent one of his
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subordinates with us to the two clubs which
Vigo boasts, in order that we ^ nnight be properly-
introduced as honorary members. No difficulties
were made, and five minutes after our introduc-
tion we were busily engaged in studying up the
English papers.
These clubs, or " Tertullias," as they are called,
are next door to one another in the Calle Imperial.
They are quite different to anything we have in
England, and seemed to be very little used
except for the purpose of reading the papers.
There are no dining-rooms, and no arrangements
for feeding the members, but, on the other hand,
they each rejoiced in the possession of a large
ball-room, in which the members have a ball
once a month, and in summer once a week.
Imagine the feelings of the old members of
some of our London clubs, say the Athenaeum,
Reform, or Carlton, if it were proposed to devote
one or more of the club-rooms to such an unholy
purpose as dancing. I think that the bare idea
of such a thing would be sufficient to give some
of the selfish old fogies — the men who sit on
four papers, with a fifth in their hands, and then
go to sleep ; the men who insist on keeping the
temperature of the smoking-room up to 85
degrees, and then grunt at you if you object ;
and those who, in the height of summer, are always
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m AN EIGHTEEN'TONNER
looking out for draughts, which exist only in
their own imagination — an apoplectic fit We
dined at the table-d'hSte at the hotel, which Mac
discovered, the " Hotel Continental " — so far as I
saw, the only one in town fit to go to — and had
an excellent dinner for the very moderate charge
of 1 3s. 4d. for four persons, wine, very drinkable,
cheese and fruit included.
After dinner Mac and I decided to go up to
the club and finish the papers, but the Commodore
and Underbill preferred strolling about the town,
so we agreed to meet at the stone pier at 10.
When we left the club it was pitch dark, and how-
ever else they may spend their money, the town
councillors of Vigo do not waste too much on gas.
We found our way down to the pier and
hailed the boat We were answered immediately,
as the boat was right below with the other two in
it, but it was so dark we could not make it out
Mac went down the wooden steps first, but would
not listen to my advice to go down with his face
to the steps and hold on. He had not gone down
twenty steps, if there are so many, before I heard
Jack cry out, ** Take care, sir, there's a seven-foot
drop." The next moment I saw Mac waltz into
space, and heard a heavy thud as he fell in the
boat It may easily be imagined that after that
I went down those steps with considerable caution,
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TO GIBRALTAR A^TD BACK
and dropped safely into the dinghy. I was glad
to find him apparently all right, although of course
considerably shaken. It appeared that he had
fallen on his side on the gunwale of the boat.
How it did not upset is a marvel to me ; I used
to be prejudiced against these boats, but I must
say I have completely changed my mind, after
seeing what our little twelve-foot Berthon dinghy
went through.
The next day, Sunday, 20th April, the Com-
modore took his camera ashore and took two
photographs, one of the promenade and one of
the Bay, under the admiring gaze of the juvenile
and ragged population of Vigo. Coming down
from the terrace, Mac complained of a pain in his
side, and great difficulty in breathing, so we
thought it advisable to get him to the hotel and
send for a doctor. The manager or owner of the
hotel — I don't know which — was very kind, and
sent out for one at once, who, besides his other
qualifications, could speak French, as none of us
could manage a word of Spanish. We had not
long to wait before the doctor arrived, and having
examined Mac, he informed us that he had broken
a rib, and must go to bed at once, and that it was
impossible for him to go on board at present ; he
forbade him to have any lunch, to Mac*s intense
disgust, and said he would return and put some
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IN AN EIGHTEEN- TONNER 23
leeches on him in a couple of hours. Why the
delay of two hours we could not understand,
except on the supposition that he meant to have
his own deje&ner, cafe, cognac, and smoke first
Whether he lunched " not wisely, but too well," I
don't know, but he certainly sent a substitute to
put on the leeches. This gentleman brought two
or three young fellows with him, and while putting
on the leeches favoured them with what appeared
to be a clinical lecture. We, perhaps, in our
ignorance, thought it very funny treatment for a
broken rib, and Underbill, who knows something
about surgery, said it was adjectived nonsense,
but, unfortunately, we could not help ourselves.
At 5 the doctor found himself able to attend,
and after binding Mac up, said we might take
him on board that night. Leaving Mac to enjoy
a little thin soup — all the doctors would allow him
— we went in to the table-d'/tdte, but before doing
so, as there was an ugly sea in the Bay, we
thought it wise to send a message on board by
Manuelo, the bumboat man, telling Orvis to send
some big coats and oileys ashore for Mac, and
that we would not want the dinghy, but would go
on board in Manuelo's boat.
After dinner we paid a visit to the theatre —
" Teatro Circo Tamberlik," as it is called on the
programme — and secured a box large enough to
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hold four people, for the sum of twenty-four reales,
or about five shillings in English money. It is a
fair- sized house, but was very empty, and the
manager's finances evidently did not allow of a
heavy expenditure in dresses, scenery, etc. The
hero of the piece and the star of the company had
somewhat peculiar ideas as to a gentleman's dress,
his idea being white duck trowsers, much too
short for him, a maroon waistcoat, scarlet tie,
frock coat, of the very shiniest broadcloth, and to
crown all a billycock hat. We left shortly before
lo, and picking up Mac at the hotel, helped
him down to the stone pier, and got him on board
without any accident. It was lucky we had not
the Berthon, as there was a heavy sea running,
and Manuelo's boat was lifted up and down
alongside the pier by every wave in a way which
caused us considerable trouble in getting him,
helpless as he was, safely on board. Vigo Bay
was looking its very loveliest as we got under-
way about lO next morning, bound for Lisbon.
There was scarcely any wind, so we had plenty of
time to enjoy its varied charms, as one by one
they were developed before us, and it was not till
some time after lunch that we got clear of Bayona
Island. Our bumboatman's bill — presented at the
last moment — had rather astonished the Commo-
dore, and caused our delay.
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CHAPTER III
For the next two days the wind remained light
and variable, and we had every opportunity of
studying the coast while we basked in the sun,
as the weather — luckily for us — still continued
beautifully fine. On the Tuesday, 2ist April,
Underbill and the Commodore — as they both hit
it — succeeded in shooting a fine gannet ; when
we got him on board we found we had made a
double prize, as he had been shot in the act of
swallowing a fish, the tail of which was still
protruding from his beak. It was such a hand-
some bird that the Commodore decided to keep
him, and have him cleaned and prepared for
stuffing when he got to Lisbon : this he eventu-
ally had done, but it was done so badly that we
were obliged to throw it overboard some three
weeks afterwards.
At 12 noon we made out the lighthouse,
Mondego Point, bearing south, three and a half
miles off. At 4 in the afternoon, wind W.^S.,
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Mondego Point was bearing north-east, ten miles.
The course was then altered to S.W.b.W., as the
tide was fast setting us on shore. During the
afternoon we got a little breeze and passed the
dangerous Berlins, taking the inside passage about
I A.M. on Thursday morning. Later on the wind
dropped, and at 12 we were lolloping about
on the top of a big swell, making no way, abreast
of Cape Roca, only four miles off.
While we were rolling about in this aggravating
manner several steamers passed us, and among
others an English passenger boat bound home.
We exchanged compliments, but when she was
some distance astern we noticed that she was
signalling us by means of the heliograph ; un-
fortunately we had no code and could not read
the signals. Passed Rago Point about i, and
when off the signal station we were rather
astonished to find that they were signalling for
our number. The Commodore immediately sent
up the four flags which represented her letters,
J L Q P., and official number, 86624, which told
them that our boat was the Chiripa, of Ipswich.
Going in by the north channel — the most danger-
ous, unless you have a fair wind — we passed Fort
St. Joseph, keeping well clear of the nasty shelf
of rock which juts out for some yards from it, and
on which many a good ship has been wrecked,
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IN AN EIGHTEEN' TONNE R 27
and opened the Tagus about 4. With the ex-
ception of poor Mac, who had not left his bunk
since leaving Vigo, we were all on deck eager to
get the first glimpse of the river, whose wondrous
beauties we had so often heard extolled —
"And Tagus dashing onward to the deep,
His fabled golden tribute bent to pay." . . .
" Oh, Christ ! it is a goodly sight to see
What heaven hath done for this delicious land."
Beyond that its fertile shores are refreshing,
after Mondego*s bare and rocky coast, there is
nothing to rave about, and little to praise. We
all agreed that the Tagus was a big sell, and
could not for one moment compare with Vigo
Bay.
Off Belem Castle, where the river is only about
a mile wide, though it broadens out to five
opposite Lisbon, we were kept messing about for
half an hour waiting for the quarantine boat, and
therefore had plenty of time to admire this
diminutive castle's architectural beauties. It is
a graceful building with massive walls, handsome
terrace, and some funny hanging watch-towers.
The battlements too are covered with carving.
Though built in the fifteenth century it was still
strong enough to withstand the famous earthquake
of 17SS, which almost razed Lisbon to the ground.
To most people, however, it is chiefly interesting.
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as recalling to them that it was on that spot that
Vasco de Gama set foot on returning from the
discovery of a new empire.
At last the boat came off to us, and we had
rather a shave of being put in quarantine, as at
first the official insisted upon Mac being brought
on deck ; this, however, we declined to do, and at
last the officer gave in. Their boat had scarcely
left us before the agent's boat was alongside. He
had received a telegram from the signal station
that we were coming in, and with an eye to
business had sent his boat to meet us. His clerk
piloted us up to our anchorage off the Lisbon
Yacht Club house, where we brought up in five
fathoms at 7.
As the Commodore thought it was not worth
while to go ashore that evening, the agent was
sent off with telegrams for friends, and instructions
to bring off an English-speaking doctor and any
other luxuries he could think of early next morn-
ing. Then we dined, and dined well, and over
our final pipe on deck we came to the conclusion
that Lisbon and the Tagus looked better by night
than day.
When I woke up next morning I found the
boat jumping about in such a very lively fashion
that I rolled out of my bunk and ran up the
companion to see what was up, found it was
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IN AN EIGHTEEN- TONNER 29
blowing hard, with a nasty choppy sea, and the
fishing-boats anchored ahead of us were having a
merry time of it. It was much too cold to
remain on deck with nothing on but pyjamas, so
I tumbled below and commenced an elaborate
toilette for the benefit of the poor Portuguese.
The doctor, a jolly-looking old sportsman, came
on board shortly afterwards, and after punching
Mac about, told him — much to his delight — that
he was all right, but it was quite unnecessary for
him to tell Mac — as he did — to go ashore and
enjoy himself, as Mac always made a point of
doing that. As it would have been impossible
for the Berthon to have lived in that sea with five
people in her, the Commodore told the shore-boat
to come back for us after landing the doctor.
We were anchored about one mile and a half
from the landing stage, and so had to wait some
little time for the boat Once on shore, our first
move was to indulge ourselves in our greatest
luxuries — English beer, a shampoo, and a bath,
which we found cheap and good at the Hotel
Centrale, close to the river. About 1 2 • we
returned to the boat, as the Commodore wished
to wind his chronometers, and by the time we
got on board we were wet through from the spray
which washed right over us. It was, however,
very lucky that we did return, as we found Orvis
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in an awful state of excitement. The boat had
dragged her anchor and was on a shoal with only
eighteen inches of water under her, a weather-
going tide and blowing a gale of wind from
W.S.W, We immediately set to work, hove in
anchor, which fortunately had got a good hold,
and with the assistance of foresail and peak of
mainsail hoisted a little, managed to claw off.
Before we were able to take up a fresh anchorage,
it came on to pour ; oileys were no protection ; it
ran down your neck in streams, trickled into your
boots and cut your face and hands like whip-cord.
It continued to rain on and off for the rest of the
day, but we could not complain, as that was the
first wet day we had had since crossing the Bay.
Dined at the " Hotel Centrale," and had a very
good dinner at a reasonable price. After dinner
we were delighted to find that our old friend Paulus
was playing at the Gymnase. The place was full,
but we succeeded in getting a box. Paulus was
in splendid form, but we could not help thinking
that he was laying it on rather thick when he
sang a song, the refrain of which was Les Portugais
sont toiijoiirs gais^ as a more melancholy set of
mutes it would be hard to find. The king was
there with a large suite, and we saw them drive
away afterwards in English-built carriages, each
drawn by four mules !
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IN AN EIGHTEEN' TONNER 31
It was a bright morning on 25 th, Saturday,
but the wind was still blowing hard, and a very
heavy sea. We went on shore early and strolled
about the town. Some fine Plazas and that was
all. Wandering about the hill near St George's,
we were rather surprised to find some very small
and poor houses boasting staircases with a dado
about three feet high ; it consisted of blue tiles,
and the design appeared to be cupids playing
with flowers. Shortly afterwards, in a church in
the immediate neighbourhood, we came across a
dado of a similar character, but representing
religious subjects. On our way back to the hotel
we passed a barrack-looking building with crowds
of men in all sorts of costumes looking out of the
barred windows. They shouted to us, no doubt
uncomplimentary remarks, but as we did not
understand what they said it did not affect our
equanimity. On inquiring we found out it was a
prison. Prison regulations are evidently very lax
in Portugal. Soon after dinner we went down to
the landing stage, but as our agent's boat was not
there we had to look out for another one. Any
amount of gentlemen were bidding for our custom,
but the Commodore decided in favour of the
most vociferous, and certainly the most amusing
applicant. " Come along with me, sar — I know
your yat — my name John Beef." — "John Beef?"
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said the Commodore, "you mean John Bull." —
" All right, sar, you come with me ; my name
John Beef, John Bull, what you like ; you come
with me."
Next morning when I came on deck it was
blowing a gale, and there was a regular sea
running. We were most anxious to get ashore,
as a bull-fight had been advertised to take place
that afternoon ; but in spite of all our signals,
although we were only two cables' length off the
nearest shore, no boat would come off to us. At
4 the Commodore decided in making an attempt
to land in the Berthon. Only two persons were
allowed to go at a time, the Commodore and
Underbill going first If they succeeded in the
attempt, Mac and I were to follow with the
camera. They did not attempt to row to our
usual landing-place, but simply went for the
nearest point of the stone embankment, in the
hope that they might be able to climb it. It was
very exciting for us to watch the little dinghy
bobbing up and down in the heavy sea, and at
times we thought she must founder.
At last they reached the embankment. Jack
turned the Berthon smartly on top of a wave and
backed her in, but before the Commodore could
catch hold Jack had to pull out again to prevent
the boat being smashed against the wall. Over
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§
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IN AN EIGHTEEN' TONNE R 33
and over again this happened, till at last the
Commodore caught hold, and some good-natured
souls on shore helping him, was soon on top, and
Underhill quickly followed. When, in our turn,
we got near the shore we found — what we could
not see from the yacht — that there was an iron
hoop let into the wall rather more than half-way
up. Mac went first and then I handed up the
camera.
The first try I made for the hoop I failed, and
when I did catch hold, and was hauling myself
up, a wave broke against the wall and wet me
through. However, we had succeeded in effecting
a landing, but we were not through all our
troubles, as two Custom -House officers bore
down on us and insisted on examining the camera.
They stretched it out, looked through it, and at
last, though not without some misgivings, passed
it Hailing the first cab, we told the driver to
take us to the bull -ring. Cabby said nothing,
but bustling up his old gee, rattled away, and
after a drive of about twenty minutes pulled up
with a grand flourish in front of the building.
He then descended from his seat and informed us
that there would be no bull- fight that day, as it
had been put off in consequence of somebody's
death. We only smiled and looked pleasant, but
for all that, like the old lady's parrot, we thought
D
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a lot. There was nothing for it but to return to
the hotel, and there our curiosity was excited by
seeing a crowd round the telegraph-board. We
worked our way to the front, and found the cause
of all the excitement was a press telegram to the
effect that war was imminent between England
and Russia, and that all the Russian men-of-war
in the Mediterranean had been ordered home,
with instructions to call at Cadiz and Lisbon on
the way. From what we saw and heard, both
then and later, it was quite clear to us that the
sympathies of the Portuguese were most decidedly
enlisted on the Russian side.
In the evening we attended Paulus's benefit, and
had a very jolly time. When we returned on
board the Commodore showed us the agent's bill.
The charge for water was most extortionate, con-
sidering that we had filled up our tanks at Vigo
we really required very little, but for that the
charge was £i. The Commodore had remon-
strated about it, but was told that the charge was
the same whether he took much or little.
Before turning in we sampled some Collares
and Bucellas, which the Commodore had laid in.
They are cheap rough wines, but very drinkable
with soda water, or even plain water.
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CHAPTER IV
We got under-way next morning at 6, and with
wind and tide in our favour soon left Lisbon
behind.
At II we passed Cape Espichel, bearing
E.b.S., let go log and laid course S.b.W., a fresh
breeze blowing from W.S.W. The weather con-
tinuing fine we sighted Cape St Vincent, bearing
S.b.W., at 8. On Monday at 12, midnight,
hauled log and took departure from Cape St.
Vincent, bearing north-west, distance ten miles,
and laid course S.E.^S. We made Cape Spartel
about 2 A.M. on Tuesday morning, and when I
came on deck at 4 we were just crossing Tangiers
Bay. At 6 Arthur came on deck to look about
him, and as it was quite calm I thought I would
seize the opportunity and turn in for a couple of
hours. About 9 I came on deck again, and
looking forward, as usual, directly I got up the
companion, said, " Why, there's the Rock !" To
my astonishment and disgust everybody com-
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menced to laugh, but what annoyed me most was
that although I expressed my willingness to back
my opinion I could get no one to take me up.
In another half-hour or so we were able to make
out the batteries, and the scoffers had to take a
back seat, and own that I was right Some
twenty-four years had elapsed since I had been at
Gibraltar, but the impression it had then made on
me had not been effaced. We brought up inside
the New Mole at 1 1 A.M. and found two yachts
lying there, the steam yacht Olivia^ and the yawl
Alruna,
When the pratique boat came alongside we
were all disgusted to find that war had not yet
been declared, and we were sorry to hear that
poor Captain Rose of the Night Thought had
been lost overboard off* Cape St. Vincent. He
had made some wonderful passages across the
Bay in small boats. Only stopping long enough
to make ourselves somewhat presentable, we went
ashore, and found, much to Mac's disgust, that it
was some little distance into the town. He
begged us to take a cab, but the Commodore was
obdurate, and said a walk would do him much
more good. Personally, I was only too glad to
get an opportunity of stretching my legs. Although
it was our invariable rule to go in for a square
sleep when in harbour, it was so hot in the cabins
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IN AN EIGHTEEN'TONNER yj
next morning that we were obliged to turn out
much earlier than we otherwise would have thought
of doing. At lo, with all the skylights, doors,
and hatches open, the thermometer in the main
cabin marked 70°. It was still hotter ashore, and
when the Commodore proposed walking, there
was a regular mutiny, as we, the crew, at once
refused. The Commodore, however, was quite
equal to the occasion, and simply said, "Very
well, then you must give me a lift." As he left
us to pay for the cab he had decidedly the best
of it. We had intended to lunch at the " Hotel
Royal," but were somewhat surprised when we
were informed that the hotel was shut for the
afternoon, as the proprietress had been married
that morning, but that it would be open for table-
d'fibte as usual. It was a great nuisance, as we
had to go the whole of the way back to the boat
for lunch. In the afternoon we strolled into the
gardens to hear the band play, and luckily ran
against a friend who was in garrison. He kindly
offered to put our names down for the library, an
offer which it is needless to say we accepted.
Going off to the yacht the Commodore slipped on
the steps and fell into the water, and was very
nearly choked by Jack before we — as the wretched
Commodore could not speak — could make him
understand that he was amphibious. That night
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\
we dined at the " Hotel Royal " and had a shock-
ing bad dinner. The wedding had evidently up-
set the whole establishment. Mac said he hoped
that the bridegroom was having a better dinner,
as otherwise his temper would be utterly ruined,
and his wife would have a real bad time. Captain
H came off to lunch with us next day, and
after looking round the boat he said he thought
that we must hold our lives very cheap, as he
would not have come out in such a small craft for
anything. He tried to persuade us to remain for
the races, in which he was running two horses,
and he told us he was getting himself into con-
dition by walking up to the signal station on the
top of the Rock every day. As we had walked
up to the galleries, which is only about half-way,
the day before, and had barely yet recovered from
our exertions, we admired the feat, but betrayed
no wish to emulate it Orvis compared chrono-
meters with the Alruna, and found ours was eight
seconds out. We strolled up to the library in the
afternoon, and revelled in the English papers.
The rooms were deliciously cool.
Got away next morning at 8, homeward
bound, as the Commodore was due in London on
the first of June. We had scarcely got clear of
the Mole when we met H.M.S. Neptune coming
in crowded with troops. The wind \yas S.W.b.W.,
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IN AN EIGHTEEN'TONNER 39
consequently almost dead against us, and there
was a nasty choppy sea, so what with the wind
and the current, as it runs from the Atlantic into
the Mediterranean at about the rate of four knots
an hour, we could make no headway at all, and
to be perpetually shifting the sheets to no purpose,
especially when you get a dose of salt water over
you every time, is not only far from amusing, but
is quite sufficient to cool the ardour of the most
enthusiastic mariner.
Even the Commodore got sick of it at last,
and said he would run for Ceuta. The boat was
accordingly put about, and we brought up in
Ceuta Bay in five and a half fathoms, with twenty
fathoms of chain out, at 1 2. There was a heavy
sea running into the Bay, and when the wind is
blowing hard from the north-east it would be
impossible for any yacht to remain safely at
anchor, more especially as the bottom is all rock.
There is no harbour of any kind, but they are at
present engaged in building a breakwater, which,
when 'finished, if you once got inside, would no
doubt make it a fairly safe harbour of refuge. I
greatly fear, however, that this important work —
judging by the number of men they have employed
and their rate of progress — will not be finished
much before the Channel Tunnel. Somehow or
another we had all got it into our heads that
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Ceuta was worth seeing ; but when we caught sight
of the dilapidated . collection of mud buildings
which compose the town, we did not think it
would be worth our while to land, so the Com-
modore set us to work to take in a couple of reefs
before starting again. This had scarcely been
accomplished to his satisfaction before the pratique
boat came alongside. The Commodore informed
the officer that we had no intention of going
ashore, and therefore he would not trouble him to
fill up our papers. However, whether it was for
lack of work, and consequent need of fees, he
insisted on taking our papers ashore, much to the
Commodore's disgust.
There was no help for it, and so we resigned
ourselves to circumstances, and although we dare
not look it, we felt rather pleased, as we hoped
that he would remain away long enough to allow
us to have our luncheon in comparative peace ;
as no matter how hard it is blowing you can
always feed more comfortably when your boat is
at anchor than when she is thrashing to windward.
In the one case, although the table may be dodging
about in a very lively manner, you can generally
manage to put away the greater part of the con-
tents of your plate ; in the other, as one moment
the table may be, and very often is — constantly
in our case — above your head, and next moment
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IN AN EIGHTEEN'TONNER 41
considerably below your waist, nearly all your
time is si>ent in trying to prevent the dishes and
bottles from being emptied into your lap, and
while thus employed your plate of food gently
glides on to your knees, and from thence to
the floor. We had succeeded in lunching, and
were consequently enjoying our smoke on deck,
when we saw a large barge full of people coming
off. It was rather puzzling to us why such a
number should think it necessary to come off to
our little boat, and for a moment it was a question
with us whether they were friendly or hostile.
Our minds were soon set at rest, as the pratique
officer hailed us and asked the Commodore's per-
mission for his friends to see the boat. No doubt
their curiosity had been excited on hearing from
him the trip the boat had made, arid from what
we afterwards saw, Ceuta lacks amusement.
They gave us their cards, and as perhaps one
or more of them may some day come across this
little account, I set them out, and beg again to
thank them on behalf of the crew for the great
kindness they showed us. Miguel Sala Igual,
Director de Sanitad Maritima ; Andres Gonzales y
Sanchez de Alva, Registrador del Presidad de
Ceuta ; Benito Tavaronna, Captain of Artillery ;
Francisco Annadion, Medico Militaire. There
were also the Commander of the fort and another
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42 TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK
gentleman, whose cards I unfortunately lost, but I
think he was the military advocate. Of course
the Commodore asked them on board and took
them below, and our last luxury, some English
beer, was produced. They expressed themselves
very niuch pleased with the boat, but were con-
siderably astonished at our having attempted such
a long journey in so small a yacht By this time
the cabin was pretty full of smoke, as everybody
was smoking something or another, and as the
boat was rolling very badly in a nasty jerky sort
of way, I was not surprised when one gentleman
bolted up the companion, without even stopping
for his hat, and was quickly followed by all the
rest. They now displayed greater anxiety to get
on shore than they had to come on board, and as
they pressed' us to go with them and see what
there was to be seen in Ceuta, we tumbled into
the barge and accompanied them. They kindly
acted as guides, and first of all took us up to the
fort. It is some little distance from the landing
stage, and as it was extremely hot, we did not
hurry. I was walking with one of the party close
behind the Commodore, who was discoursing
eloquently about guns to the artillery officer.
Presently the latter left him and joined us, and
immediately asked me what the Commodore's
profession was. " Engineer, military or civil ?"
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IN AN EIGHTEEN' TONNER 43
I made him happy by informing him he was only
a civil engineer. "Then how does he know so
much about guns ? " he inquired suspiciously.
" Oh," I said, " he's an amateur in those aflfairs."
When we got on board afterwards and com-
pared notes, we found that he had put the same
questions to every member of our party, the
Commodore included. Whether for a moment or
two he fancied we were spies from Gibraltar, and
regretted having invited us to see the fort, I don't
know ; anyhow, we saw some splendid ten-inch
breech-loading Krupp guns mounted, and others
lying about ready for mounting. In the galleries
at Gibraltar we had not seen any gun of equal
calibre. The captain of artillery, for the sake of
exercise, succeeded after a long struggle in lifting
one of the shot, which weighed 90 kilos = 1 80 lbs.,
just clear of the ground ; but both the Commodore
and Underbill, determined not to let a Spaniard
have it all his own way, succeeded in carrying the
same shot right across the fort. Not content with
doing it once, the Commodore repeated the feat
and strained himself internally. He did not find
it out till the next day, but then he was very seedy,
and had to take a couple of days* rest They
told us they had 6000 troops in garrison.
Ceuta is a large convict establishment, and
when we were there they had 1500 convicts. It
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seems a pity that they do not employ them in
making a good harbour, instead of keeping them
at their present work. We were afterwards taken
to the Moorish quarter of the town. This is
separated from the town by a high wall, and the
gates of the enclosure are closed every night at a
certain time. We looked into one or two of the
houses, but were obliged to beat a hasty retreat,
as the odours were anything but savoury. Some
of the young girls had their faces uncovered and
were strikingly good-looking. It appears that
these Moors never intermarry with the Spaniards,
and keep strictly to their own customs. After
they had showed us round they insisted on taking
us up to their club, and on the way the military
advocate nodded pleasantly to a Moorish woman
sitting behind the grated window of a tumble-
down old building. He informed me she was
waiting her trial for having murdered her child.
She certainly looked very unconcerned, and smiled
and nodded back in a most cheerful manner.
The club was arranged in the same fashion as
all the other clubs we had seen, the best room
being used as a ball-room, but where the ladies
come from, unless the members fall back on the
dusky beauties, it would be hard to say. Some
excellent sherry was brought in, and the health of
the Queen was proposed in very flattering terms,
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IN AN EIGHTEEN' TONNE R 45
and drunk with all the honours. The Commodore
then proposed the health of the King (since dead).
It would have made a good picture if anybody
had taken a sketch of us all standing up with our
glasses in our hands singing "For he's a jolly
good fellow," and the Spaniards trying to pick up
the words from us. However, whenever they
failed they always cheered, so it did not much
matter, and the row was something terrific. In
spite of their unpleasant experience of the morning
they came off to the boat with us, but nothing
would persuade them to venture on board again.
We had a final drink, and, amid mutual expressions
of good- will and waving of hats, our kind friends
left us. The wind was now blowing hard, so we
had to turn to and get in another reef and set
forth jib, and after getting up the anchor, bade
farewell to Ceuta.
Although Ceuta was not one of the ports in
the black list, to avoid going through the formal-
ities again, the Commodore decided on making for
Algesiras instead of going back to Gibraltar,
and waiting there till the wind moderated or
shifted.
We were all night working past Europa Point,
and we did not bring up off Algesiras till 10
next morning, after a very wet passage. There
is no need for a bill of health at Algesiras, so any
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yacht coming from an unhealthy port, and the
passengers and crew wishing to see Gibraltar
without first doing seven days' quarantine, can
easily manage it by anchoring oflf Algesiras and
going across to Gibraltar, three miles and a half,
in a little steam ferry-boat which runs morning
and evening. It only shows the farce of the
whole system of quarantine that this should be
the case. Had we even had cholera on board,
there was nothing to prevent us from going into
Gibraltar whenever we liked. The guide-book
informs you that Algesiras was once a town of
magnificence and note, but few traces of its early
splendour are now to be found. There is one
good Plaza and a market-place, the shops being
under a funny little colonnade surrounding a large
open space. In the chief church here I noticed,
among the other usual ex-votos, two splendid
switches of human hair. If the young women
who presented them really cut them off their own
heads, it shows a depth of gratitude with which
one does not generally credit lovely woman.
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CHAPTER V
The wind showed no signs of shifting, so we
arranged with the manager of the " Hotel Victoria "
to provide us with animals for a ride round to
Gibraltar, as we thought we might just as well go
and see the races, about which we had heard so much.
We were also still doubtful whether, if we went
across in the ferry-boat, we would be allowed to
land ; while the boy at the hotel, who was to be
our guide, assured us that he would take us into
Gibraltar without any trouble. Our Berthon was
alongside about 9.30 next morning, and we
quickly stowed ourselves away in her, for were
we not going to see the races, and the rank
fashion and beauty of Gibraltar ? Alas ! we
were doomed to disappointment, for while, no
doubt, the ilite of Gibraltar were present, beauty
was conspicuous by its absence, and with the
exception of one young lady, daughter of a high
official, we did not see a good-looking woman on
the ground.
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The painful recollection of my disappointment
— which is still too vivid — must be my excuse
for this digression. We had gone about fifty
yards from the Qtiripa when we heard the
Commodore — who had been unable to join us,
as he was still very seedy, having strained himself
at amateur shot drill at Ceuta, and felt quite
unequal to any exertion — hailing us ; looking
round we saw both Orvis and the Commodore
pointing at something which, however, we were
unable to discover, so keeping in the even tenor
of our way, we arrived safely at the Mole. We
found the boy waiting for us with three sorry-
looking steeds, caparisoned in queer-looking saddles
of the Mexican type, a sort of arrangement which
raises you almost six inches above your gee. We
walk«d our horses through the town, as the pave-
ment did not permit of fast riding, and at the
same time we had to keep a sharp look-out for
holes, as in the middle of the street, every here
and there, one came across a drain, minus its iron
grating, or else set so low in the surrounding
stone that should your animal step in it the
results would be nearly as disastrous. Once clear
of the town we took to the sands and had an
exhilarating gallop. It is about ten miles round
to Gibraltar, and the coast road is intersected by
two rivers, the Guadaranque and Palmones, over
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IN AN EIGHTEEN' TONNE R 49
which we were ferried. The boats were worked
by means of a wire rope, which, stretching across
the river, was carried on board. The ferry-men
had long pieces of leather with a large lump of
cork at the end ; when everybody was on board
they walked forward, and without stooping, with
a mere turn of the wrist, succeeded in hitching
the wire rope with their leather, and putting the
end over their shoulders walked aft ; when they
reached the end of the boat, with another turn
of the wrist they disengaged their leather and
commenced again de novo. The neatness with
which they always caught hold and released their
leather commanded our admiration. I had a try
myself, but failed to catch once in half a dozen
tries. Once over the Palmones, we cantered into
the little Spanish village on the edge of the
neutral ground, and leaving our horses at a little
Fonda, crossed the neutral ground and entered
the lines without the slightest difficulty. We
lunched at the " Hotel Royal," and as we had a
decent meal, we came to the conclusion that they
had got over the excitement caused by the
marriage.
The race-course, just inside the lines, is certainly
not one of the best, and the ground was as hard
as a brick. We got there in time to see Captain
H come in second, to a horse called the
E
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Camel, for the first race ; but the less said about
the racing the better. The only noticeable feature
of the meeting was the absence of "bookies,"
all the betting being done on the Pari Mutuel
system, under the management of the officers of
the garrison, and confined to members of the
garrison library, jockey club, and officers in the
army and navy. It was the first race-meeting I
had ever been at where it was impossible to
purchase a drink. It is true that the soldiers had
their canteens there, but then they were some
way down the course, and we did not know
whether they were open to the public
We saw two amateur "bookies " doing a thriving
silver business among the soldiers. The gientle-
man who called the odds was a sergeant in the
fusiliers, and his clerk — a private. The prices
they laid were nearly as bad as the prices we now
have to put up with in England. In a field of
nine, I heard them offer three to one, bar two,
and an outsider romped in.
When we got back to the hotel, where we had
left our horses, we found only two, and our guide
was also missing. After waiting about half an
hour, we saw him galloping towards us from the
racecourse on one of our gees, accompanied by a
friend on the other. Both the wretched animals
were in a fearful lather, and our guide had been
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IN AN EIGHTEEN- TONNE R $ i
evidently galloping them about the whole after-
noon. He explained to us that he had taken the
horses to meet us, and when we pointed out to
him that we were three in number, and that he
had only taken two horses, he was not put out
in the slightest, but simply said he did not think
he could manage a third. Candid youth !
We had a delightful ride back in the cool of
the evening, and found our dinner ready for us at
the hotel, and we sat down, after our twenty
mile ride, with excellent appetites, to a very good
meal. We were still at table when the Commo-
dore rushed into the room ; but before we could
even greet him, he burst out with, "I say, you
fellows, you had a narrow squeak this morning." —
" Narrow squeak 1 what do you mean ? " — " Why,
didn't you see that shark following you, when
you went ashore in the Berthon?" — "Shark be
, we heard you hailing us, and saw you
pointing at something, but we couldn't see any-
thing." — "Oh, very well," said the Commodore,
" you ask Orvis. You hadn't got forty yards from
the boat before Orvis drew my attention to a
shark, which followed you steadily till you got
near that shoal ; we saw his fin plainly." He was
so much in earnest that we could not help
believing him, but we were all mighty pleased
we had not seen the gentleman with the fin, as
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to Tcnow that you are being attended by one of
those pirates when one is in a small Berthon
almost loaded down to the water's edge, must be
anything but a pleasant sensation. The Com-
modore told us that he had had the tank filled up
in the afternoon, and had only paid half a peseta
(fivepence) a breaker. For this sum the man
fetched the water from a distance of about a
quarter of a mile.
Wednesday^ 6th May, — There was no change in
the weather ; it may here be said that there are
only two winds in the Straits of Gibraltar : those
from the east and west, known respectively by
the locals as "Levante" and "La Poniente."
Unfortunately for us the wind was still in the
latter quarter. Underbill left us and caught the
7 boat for Gibraltar, as he had to be back in
London by the tenth, and had booked a passage
in the Paramatta, which ought to have arrived
at Gibraltar at 6 that morning. However, even
with the glasses we could see no signs of her.
We heard afterwards that the boat did not come
in till late in the afternoon, and Underbill had a
horribly slow time of it ashore. We were all very
sorry to lose him, as he is not only an excellent
companion, always in good spirits, but a good
navigator, and an able and most enthusiastic
yachtsmaa In the afternoon we went for a
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IN AN EIGHTEEN'TONNER S3
Stroll, as Mac said he did not feel equal to a
ride to the cascade, and spent the greater part
of the morning in trying to discover a soft seat
on board. During our peregrination Mac took a
fancy to a three -cornered puppy we saw in the
market-place, so the Commodore promptly took it
in his arms, and held up a dollar to its noble
proprietor, who was taking his siesta on his own
doorstep. An electric shock could not have
stirred him more : he jumped up, seized the coin
with a profusion of thanks, and no doubt regretted
that he could not sell a pup at that price every
day. The Commodore presented it to Mac, and
it was immediately christened " Chirps." Nobody
could make out what breed he was, but we have
since been informed that he is a Spanish pointer.
His original owner had unfortunately cut or bitten
oiT his tail as close as possible, which somewhat
detracts from his appearance.
Next morning we got under- way at lo, wind
N.N.W., but very light. We set our trysail, as
the Commodore thought it was getting mouldy,
in order to give it an airing. We had barely got
into the Straits before the wind shifted to S.W.b.W.,
and once more we were in for a wearisome thrash,
under a trysail, and with such a light wind, we
were scarcely able to hold our own against the
current ; so the Commodore — much to our delight
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— consented to bring up for the night under the
shelter of Peregril Island (on the African coast),
but after reading the sailing directions, he thought
better of it, and decided in favour of Almanza
Bay. I may as well here quote the sailing
directions, as it may perhaps help to explain
why we departed so hurriedly from Almanza
Bay:—
"Peregril Island. — From Almanza Point a high
rugged coast continues eastward as £ar as Peregril or Coral
Island, and then turns north-east to Leona Point. The
centre of this island is exactly midway between each point,
or a short mile from both. It lies at the base of the
Sierra Bulones, or Apes Hill, with the land of which it
appears blended ; it is of nearly triangular form, a mile in
circuit, and its northern point 244 feet high. ... On its
eastern side there are two coves, the northernmost, called
Ruy or Levante, and the southernmost, Reina; they are
only fit for small craft. There are other coves on the
north and west, where landing may be effected to climb the
cliffs, should it be necessary to reach its simimit for any
purpose, or to obtain, fuel. It contains a cave called
Palomas, in which 200 men could find shelter. . . . Anchor-
age : Between Peregril Island and the coast there is good
shelter for small vessels, both from easterly and westerly
winds, and the island would be resorted to but for the
unfriendliness of the Moors, Smuggling craft and fishing
vessels are all that frequent it, when overtaken by bad
weather. In case of necessity a vessel may obtain water
on the shore of the mainland opposite the island, but the
greatest precaution must be used against any sudden attack J*
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IN AN EIGHTEEN' TONNER 55
The same sort of warnings about the African
coast appear over and over again in the sailing
directions.
A little after 8 we stood in for Almanza
Bay. By this time it was very dark and we could
see no signs of an opening in the land, but the
Commodore did not seem uneasy, and sailed right
ahead into the very shadow of the tall cliffs. We
made sure that he was going to put us on the
rocks, but as we were only part of the crew,
we had to sit still and await events : we were
exactly in the same position as the gentlemen
in the Light Brigade, about whom Tennyson has
sung —
" Their's not to make reply,
Their*s not to reason why,
Their's but to do and die."
However, just when things were getting too
exciting to be altogether pleasant, we passed in
between the headlands. The rocky cliffs run up
to a considerable height on each side, and I doubt
whether you could effect a landing on either side,
as the cliffs seemed almost perpendicular. How-
ever, there appeared to be a strip of sandy beach
at the head of the bay.
The bay is — at night, at all events — a very
ugly one. We had just got the foresail off, the
anchor was ready, and Jack was only waiting for
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word to let go, when Orvis drew our attention to
a boat which was sneaking up under our lee.
We were still looking in wonder at this mysterious
boat with its solitary occupant, when Jack called
out, " Three boats to windward, sir." Apparently
there was only one man in each of these boats,
though Orvis said that the one which got closest
to us was full of men lying down ; anyhow, the
effect was most uncanny. We knew there was
no village in the Bay, or even any houses, and
although it was calm, with next to no wind, we
heard no rattle in the rowlocks, nor the sound of
the sculls as they were dipped in the water.
Orvis and the Commodore thought it best to get
sail on her once more ; but as there was very little
wind, and things were looking decidedly ugly, for
there was no doubt all these boats were bearing
down on us, Mac was kept busy handing up all
the firearms we had on board. It was rather a
miscellaneous collection — a rook rifle, a double-
barrelled shot gun, and a Colt's revolver. By the
time the las't weapon and an adequate supply of
cartridges had been handed up, the leeward boat
was pretty close under our stem, so the Com-
modore handed over the tiller to Orvis, and taking
the Colt in his hand stepped on the Monkey
Island, and kept the strange boat covered ; in
another moment he would have fired, but luckily
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IN AN EIGHTEEN' TONNER 57
we got a puff of wind, and without waiting to see
them closer, we bolted.
" Mark the dens of Caitiff Moors :
Ha ! the pirates seize their oars, —
Haste we from th' accursed shores."
It was horribly disappointing, for we had all
counted orr having a square sleep. As it was, we
had a horribly stupid night, tacking along the
coast, and making scarcely any way. All next
day was the same, winds light and variable. By
this time everybody was in a bad temper. Here
we were having only a thirty mile trip to make
from Algesiras to Tangiers, and we had already
been some thirty hours at it It wa» my eight
hours out, and I rejoiced when I came on deck to
find.it was such a lovely night About 9.30,
as we were standing in for the African shore, I
made out a very bright light about two miles
west of Cape Baga. Orvis or I could not
understand it at all, as there is no light on this
coast between Ceuta and Spartel, and there is no
village where I saw the light It remained visible
till ID, when it suddenly disappeared. A few
moments afterwards we made out a light about
half a mile to the eastward of the spot we had
seen the first one. The two lights then kept
showing alternately; at 10.30 the east light
disappeared altogether, and the west one became
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a flasher, and then disappeared also. Whether,
judging from our size, they mistook us for one of
their smugglers, or whether they thought they
could induce us to run ashore, it would be hard
to say ; but from what we saw of them, and what
we have heard since, I would advise all small
yachts to give that bit of " Afric's burning shore "
a wide offing.
In the early morning we caught a nice breeze
from the north-west, which brought us along
merrily, and after sailing through a small fleet of
open boats, all employed in fishing, we brought
up off" Tangiers in six fathoms, at 1 1.30 A.M.
Slavery is . still in vogue here, and we found out
afterwards that nearly all the fishermen were
slaves. The view of Tangiers from the Bay is
most effective, and we could not have had a
better day for our first glimpse. A strong sun,
and the cloudless blue sky reflected in the clear
water, calm, but for a passing ripple ; while the
white houses, with the minarets of the different
mosques towering above them, stood out well in
the bright sunlight.
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CHAPTER VI
The anchorage here is very fair ; but it seems a
pity that the English destroyed the Mole — which
they had been at so much trouble to build, and the
remains of which are still clearly visible at low
tide — when they evacuated the place in the
seventeenth century. The quarantine officers
made no difficulties, and they had scarcely pushed
off when a shore boat came alongside with a most
magnificent Oriental-looking gentleman seated in
the stem. He introduced himself to us as Hadj
Cador Sahta, and offered us his services as
interpreter, guide, philosopher, and friend. He
seemed to have any number of most excellent
testimonials from various yachts, including the
famous Sunbeam^ so the Commodore came to an
arrangement with him, and shortly after we went
ashore under his guidance. As we drew near
the wretched landing-place, he said to us, quite
seriously, " Now, gentlemen, when you get 'shore
you do what you like ; you knock, kick the people,
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you do what you wish." He seemed to have a
very poor opinion of his own countrymen. We
passed the Custom -House without any trouble,
then up several narrow lanes, between monotonous
whitewashed walls and houses, unrelieved by any
windows, and arrived at the " Hotel Centrale,"
where we lunched.
This is a very nice hotel indeed, and when we
entered the drawing-room we were nearly over-
powered by the perfume from the roses, with
which the room was filled. The view from the
windows over Tangiers Bay is perfectly charming,
and for this reason, I think, it is to be preferred
to the next best hotel, the " Victoria," as the latter
is outside the town ; and although it too com-
mands a view of the sea, it is a comparatively
distant one. Besides, as the town gates are shut
at 10 P.M. every night, you might possibly be
shut in or out Perhaps this rule is not enforced
towards foreigners, as although you are not
supposed to go out of the town, even to go on
board, after lo, still, thanks to Hadj, who always
saw us off, we never had any trouble, though we
never went on board before lo, and the gates
leading to the shore were always closed.
After lunch Hadj proposed that we should
visit the Soko, or large open place outside the
town, where the markets are held twice a week —
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IN AN EIGHTEEN'TONNER 6i
on Sunday and some other day. He took us
up the chief street, which is built on rather a
steep incline, leading from the harbour to the
Soko. The chief mosques are on the left hand
side, but Christians are not allowed to see them,
and did a Jew but put his unholy head within
the door it would fare badly with him. The
shops are funny little kennels, about six feet
square, and raised about two feet from the ground.
Here you might see a lawyer dozing over some
heavy legal work, and close by a public letter-
writer, apparently doing a good business. The
other shops were chiefly straw -plaiters, coffee
shops, and shops stocked with Moorish antiques,
most probably supplied from Birmingham, for
the benefit of unsuspicious tourists. The street
— narrow enough at any time — was crowded, and
every now and then you had to jump out of the
way to make room for a string of mules coming
in from the country laden with merchandise for
the next day's fair; the overflowing panniers,
sticking out on each side, kept knocking against
you in a most unpleasant manner. The Moors
are a splendid set of men, with grand physique
and magnificent carriage. The women you could
see nothing of, as their faces were hidden, except
the eyes, and they were so swaddled up in their
long wraps that they had no shape left. Those
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who were kind enough to drop their veils, and
give us poor Christians a chance of gazing on
their charms, were uncommonly ugly. It was
curious to see the Jews walking about in a dress
which we never see in England except on the
stage, and which we associate with Shylock ; but
here were any number of gentlemen who would
have required no make-up to enable them to
play the part At the top of the street we went
through an archway, turned sharp to the right
through another archway, then to the left through
the gates of the town, and we were on the market
ground. The fair, or market, was not till the
next day, but large numbers of traders had
already arrived, and it was a truly curious sight
It was like a scene out of the Arabian Nights.
The monotonous tom-tom could be heard in
every direction, and the popping of guns as some
happy Moors showed their joy by firing off their
six feet long flint-locks in the air. Right in front
of us, towering over the crowd, we could see a
pyramid of Arab acrobats dressed in white with
scarlet sashes. Every now and then one of
them would fire off his gun. Close to us were
some twenty or thirty wretched -looking camels
making the most of their rest, and near them
were a number of women with uncovered faces
guarding bundles of alfalfa. Every one of these
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IN AN EICHTEEN' TONNER 63
women, and even their children, had some sort
of blue nvark between their eyebrows or on their
chins. As they were evidently not Jewesses we
asked Hadj how it was they exposed their faces.
He told us that they were a low class, and that
the marks were tribal ones. Just then we spied
out a real snake charmer, and not waiting for
further details rushed off, and Hadj, who seemed
to be a person of consequence, soon got us a
place in the front row.
We got there just as he was going to perform.
On the ground in front of him, writhing about,
were four or five snakes, the largest being about
five feet long, and the rest varied from two to
three. I could not tell what sort of snakes they
were, and Hadj was as ignorant as myself
Taking one of the smaller snakes in his hand,
the charmer bade the boy who was sitting beside
him strike up, and he immediately began to
peg away on the tom-tom — before we left
Tangiers we longed to smash every tom-tom
in the place. After he had tom-tommed — if
the term may be excused — for about five minutes,
the snake charmer put the small snake he was
still holding up to his mouth, and put out his
tongue. The snake immediately caught hold
of it, and seemed to be trying to draw the man's
tongue down its own throat After giving every-
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body around an opportunity of seeing this, he
picked up another and a larger one, and held it
close to the neck of the snake which was still
holding on to his tongue. The snake immediately
caught hold, and the gentle pressure he brought
to bear made the first snake let go. We noticed
that when he did so the man was bleeding freely
from his mouth. We had seen enough, more
especially as we wanted to walk round the whole
show before table-d'hdte^ but when we eventually
left the ground about S, the wretched man was
still performing and still bleeding. The Soko
on a market-day is certainly not only an interest-
ing but a brilliant scene, but I think what struck
me most was the large audiences which the
numerous story-tellers seemed to command.
Hadj next took us up to the Governor's
Palace, which, as we understood, was scarcely or
ever used, and which is decidedly out of repair.
We walked through several rooms still showing
traces of their former glories, and we only re-
gretted that the place should be allowed to go
to decay for want of ordinary repairs. We now
thought we had done enough for one afternoon,
as it was excessively hot, but Hadj was not to
be denied, and insisted on taking us up to the
prison, where we were invited to look at the
wretched prisoners through a hole in the wall.
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IN AN EIGHTEEN' TONNE R 65
by courtesy called a window. I use the word
"wretched" advisedly, as although I suppose all
prisoners are more or less 'wretched, still the
treatment which a Moorish prisoner has to put
up with, or perhaps it may be safer to say, the
lot of one who happens to be sent to the prison
at Tangiers, is anything but a happy one. When
we looked in at the window they all crowded
round, either to beg tobacco or money, or to
offer basket-work for sale. To this day I regret
that when I paid my visit to the prison I did not
know the prison regulations — or rather want of
them — or I would certainly have subscribed more
largely. It appears that all the prisoners — here
of course I am speaking only of the male prisoners
— are crowded together in one large stone cell.
The sanitary arrangements exist only in name.
At the time of our visit we saw that all these
unfortunates had chains fixed to their ankles,
and we were informed that at night they had
also to wear an iron collar, and were then all
linked together. Incredible as it may appear,
these poor wretches are entirely dependent on
what they can beg or earn, and on their relations,
friends, and generous visitors, for their support.
The materials for the basket-work they have to
pay for themselves. As we returned to the hotel
we noticed that a great many of the houses had
F
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a hieroglyphic, painted in red on the wall. We
were told that this was supposed to represent the
human hand, and was placed by the Jews on
their houses as an effective protection against
the evil eye.
In the evening we dined at the hotel, and
afterwards went to a Moorish Caf6 Chantant
Half a dozen men were sitting on their heels in
one corner of the room beating the infernal tom-
tom, and chanting in a sing-song way peculiar to
these people, and horribly wearisome. There was
no fee for admission, but we were supposed to
take coffee, which was certainly not good.
Next morning we were ashore early, as we had
arranged with Hadj to ride to the lighthouse on
Cape Spartel — a ride no one should miss. Hadj
was waiting for us, close to the gate leading from
the port, with two good-looking mules and a
couple of small weedy ponies. He was good
enough to allot one pony to me, which I could
not help looking on as a mark of honour, as he
took the other one himself, and Hadj has a great
idea of his own importance, while Mac and the
Commodore had the mules. If I had had any
idea of the sort of road we had to travel on I
would most certainly have stood out for a mule,
as they are much more sure-footed. Not much
time was lost in mounting, and I flatter myself
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IN AN EIGHTEEN' TONNE R 67
we made a most effective start Hadj led the
way, sitting more erect than ever, and besides he
had evidently put on a clean burnouse in honour
of the occasion, although it must be confessed that
his burnouses were nearly always dazzlingly white ;
then the Commodore, Mac, and myself — in the
order mentioned — in blue flannel coats, white
flannel trousers, boating shoes, and yachting caps,
scarcely the costume for the Row ; while Jack,
looking very hot, brought up the rear, carrying the
Commodore's camera. Once on the Soko we
dismounted, and the Commodore took two instan-
taneous photos of the noisy and moving masses.
Unfortunately the heat or damp affected the plates,
and they became useless. Jack was glad to get
leave to return, and mounting, we proceeded gaily
on our way.
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CHAPTER VII
Leaving the Soko the road soon led us across
the Jews' river, and then by a lot of narrow little
lanes hedged in by the walls and fences enclosing
the gardens of the pretty summer residences of
the different ministers, rich Moors and Jews. As
a woman does not care to hide her beauty, or to
keep it for the gratification of one, so the flowers
refused to keep within bounds, and wave after
wave of clusters of roses of every hue — nasturtiums,
convolvuluses, and other sweet-smelling flowers —
flowed over the walls and fences to rejoice the
eye, and gratify the senses of the passer-by. It
struck us forcibly that the American minister,
with national 'cuteness, had secured the position
with the most shade, the best view, and had
decidedly the best house.
Getting clear of these lanes, and crossing a
large barren open space, the road leads up into
the mountains. I have ridden in many countries,
but I never met with such a road. Every here and
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TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK 69
there the rock cropped up for a distance of a
hundred yards or so ; no attempt has been made
to level it or blow it up, so when you come upon
it you must simply trust to Providence and the
sagacity of your animal to climb, and slip, and
creep, and tumble across it in his own way. It
was fearfully hot, and when, after about an hour
and a half of this amusement, we heard that we
had only got about half way, we began to think
that we had made a mistake in coming at all.
However, just as we were beginning to feel rather
dejected, Hadj pointed out our luncheon boy —
who had been sent on in front with a well-laden
mule — waiting patiently for us by the side of the
road. How grateful we were to Hadj for his
forethought, and how we did bless Bass as Hadj
extracted bottle after bottle of the foaming liquid
from the mule's capacious panniers, and how
delicious that drink seemed to our blistered palates
and parched throats !
Not much time was wasted, and we were soon
on the road again, as we meant to lunch at the
lighthouse. The road soon began to descend,
and this was the most beautiful part of a lovely
ride. " It was a day that sent into the heart a
summer feeling." The mountains were covered
with heather, and sweet-smelling shrubs, arbutus,
laurels, lauristinas, gum, broom, myrtle, and others
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that I did not recognise, and the air was redolent
with perfume. Far below us ''The bridegroom
sea is toying with the shore, his wedded bride.
And in the fulness of his marriage joy, he decorates
her tawny brow with shells ; retires a pace to see
how fair she looks, then, proud, runs up to kiss
her. All is fair ; all glad, from grass to sun !"
Far ahead of us Hadj was riding, but every
now and then we could hear his monotonous
chant, as he repeated some verses of the Koran,
and his fine figure in its becoming costume stood
out clear against the hill's green background, and
gave the finishing touch to a lovely picture. A
little farther down a sharp turn to the left and the
lighthouse was before us. The house, like most
Eastern buildings, is square-shaped, the middle
part being open to the sky. On every side of
this square there is a cloistered walk, on to which
the different rooms open, and as usual, a small
fountain graces the middle of the square. It was
delightful to come in out of the glaring sun into
this deliciously cool spot The guardian of the
lighthouse, a nice old Austrian, whose name I
regret to say I have forgotten, allows visitors to
the lighthouse to take their lunch in one of his
rooms, a privilege which we were glad to avail
ourselves of After lunch we persuaded him to
come in and have a cup of coffee with us. He
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IN AN EIGHTEEN' TONNER 71
showed us his visitors* book, and pointed out to
us with much pride Lady Brassey's name. He
also displayed before us what evidently seemed
to be his gjreatest treasures, a French copy of the
cruise of the Sunbeam^ and photographs of Lady
Brassey, her husband, and children, which she had
kindly sent him from England. He told us that
he had seen our little boat knocking about for
some days in the Straits and wondered what it
was. He complained bitterly about the difficulty
of getting anything from Tangiers, and said that
only a short time before he had been signalled by
a passing vessel, but could not give an answer as
be had no signal halliards, and although he had
sent in for them over and over again, he could get
nothing. The Commodore told him that he
intended to start next morning, and said that he
would signal him as he passed. The old gentleman
seemed very pleased, and promised to wave back
to us, but he said, " I am so high up, I am afraid
you will not see me."
Shortly afterwards he took us to see some por-
cupines he had caught, and told us that there were
plenty of them about. They were fine animals,
but unfortunately both had been injured by the
traps, one having lost nearly half his fore-leg.
He kindly insisted on presenting us with a small
bundle of their quills, as souvenirs of our visit to
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Cape Spartel, and I am using one of them as a
penholder while I write. It was now time to start,
and after bidding good-bye to our hospitable
friend, we mounted for the return journey. So
far as I saw, our wretched animals were given
nothing to eat during the whole time we were
there. All that was done for them — to the best
of my knowledge — was to loose their girths. By
this time it was so much cooler that our ride back
was most enjoyable. Hadj varied the return
journey by taking us over the plain, an open space
above Tangiers, from which you can get a splendid
view of the Straits.
Stopping for a moment to enjoy it, we entered
the town, and hurrying through the wretched
streets, dismounted at the hotel, in time for the
table-cThSUf all thoroughly pleased with a most
delightful excursion. Hadj's charge for mules,
horses, muleteer, and luncheon, not including wine
or beer, was only ;f i : I2s. At dinner we met
two young Englishmen who had just come over
from -Gibraltar. It turned out that we had some
mutual friends, so it was not long before we struck
up a sort of friendship. They had come over in
the wretched little steamer which still plys between
Gibraltar and Tangiers, and had noticed the Chiripa
when they came in ; and as they expressed a wish
to be allowed to see her, the Commodore — who
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IN AN EIGHTEEN' TONNE R 73
IS as far gone over his boat as a woman over her
first baby — invited them to breakfast next morning,
as he meant getting under-way about 10.
Before going on board we had two or three
games at billiards, the Commodore and I playing
a double-handed game against our two new friends,
on a table which most certainly had "a cloth
untrue, with a twisted cue, and elliptical billiard
balls"; and I regret to say we got the worst of
it At 8.30 our friends came alongside, and were
shortly followed by Hadj, with the provisions
we had ordered him to bring for our passage from
Tangiers to Lisbon, which would be, if all went
well, our next port. We were sitting aft, waiting
for a summons to breakfast, and Hadj had taken
his boat forward to unload, so we had not noticed
anything, when presently one of our visitors said,
" Why, he's plucking a chicken alive !"
It was quite true. Holding it firmly by the
neck, one of Hadj's boat crew was, with true
Oriental calmness, quietly plucking the unfortunate
fowl, an attention which the wretched bird
resented by kicking and struggling for all it was
worth. The Commodore at once went forward
and stopped it, much to Hadj's astonishment It
appeared that the Commodore had ordered a
dozen chickens, and Hadj had brought them off
to us alive. The Commodore pointed out to him
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that in a boat only ten feet wide there was no
room for a hen-coop, and that Hadj must despatch
them before plucking them. "All right," said
Hadj. " You give me knife." Orvis handed him
a knife, and Hadj, taking one of the chickens by
the head, proceeded to saw away at its neck,
handling the knife somewhat after the fashion a
violinist handles his bow. ** Surely," said the
Commodore, " you can kill it quicker than that ?" —
" How so ?" indignantly replied Hadj. " You call
this knife, this no good." Another was given him,
and the poor fowls were soon put out of their
misery. To give some idea of the prices charged
at Tangiers, I have copied out a few items from
Hadj's bill, which now lies before me. Fifty
eggs, I od. ; four rabbits, 2s. (the rabbits were
very small) ; twenty-nine pounds of beef, 1 2s. id. ;
three pounds of butter, 6s. 6d. ; one dozen chickens,
6s. I cannot make out how much milk we had
altogether, but I see that I have a note on the
bill to the effect that it was dear. It will thus be
seen that while chickens, eggs, rabbits, and beef,
were cheap, milk and butter were dear, water too
was not cheap, as we had to pay 9s. 6d. for filling
up our tank. As for flowers, you could buy
bundles of lovely roses for next to nothing.
Unfortunately, the executions had rather
spoiled the appetite of one of our visitors, and he
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IN AN EIGHTEEN- TONNER 75
did not do that justice to his breakfast which I
imagine the Commodore would liked to have seen.
Breakfast over, they bade us farewell, and went
off in Hadj's boat, Hadj first getting the Commo-
dore to add to his list of testimonials, which he
could conscientiously do. When our friends were
some little distance off, they turned round to wave
a final adieu, and at the same time one of them
tried to comfort us by shouting, " You will never
get back !" However we knew what the little
Chiripa could do, and therefore this cheerful
prophecy did not alarm us in the least. While
we were getting up the anchor, the gun-boat
Grappler^ which had been at Gibraltar with us,
went by, steering for Cadiz, and we exchanged
compliments.
It is a marvel to me how it is that Tangiers
has not yet come into fashion as a health resort.
It takes only five days by one of the comfortable
floating palaces of the P. and O. service from
London to Gibraltar, while the cost is only ;f 9,
and Tangiers is but four hours from Gibraltar.
Surely this would be less fatiguing — to say nothing
of more comfortable — for an invalid than the
wearisome railway journeys from Calais to Paris,
and again from Paris to Nice or Mentone. As
for the climate. Dr. C. J. B. Williams, the great
authority, in his standard work on consumption,
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says, "Tangiers stands as an intermediate be-
tween the Atlantic and Mediterranean climates ;"
and Dr. J. A. Lindsay in his climatic treat-
ment of consumption says, speaking of the
Riviera, "There is no such certainty in the
winter climate as may be had in Algiers or
Morocco." In Tangiers, besides, you do not run
the same risk of an earthquake, and you are
certainly not obliged to wrap up after 5 P.M.
to protect yourself from the Mistral. The hotels
— though of course not so large — are equal in
every respect to those on the Riviera, cleaner
than some I could mention, and the charges are
certainly not extortionate. Beautiful sites for
building villas on can now be bought for a song,
and I think the prices I have already given for
provisions will compare favourably with any other
health resort. Tangiers boasts a first class English
doctor, an English clergyman, and an English
consul ; so while the first two gentlemen take care
of your body and soul between them, the last will
take care of your property.
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CHAPTER VIII
The anchor was soon up and catted, and with
all plain sail set, we got under- way about 1 1 .
The wind was from the north, but very light, so
light that we were scarce able to make any head
against the current However, it ^as a lovely
day ; we were close inshore, so we lolled about
on the deck enjoying the grand view of the
coast At 5, still calm, the wind shifted to
south-east, and we got the Berthon on deck,
folded it up, and stowed it away in its usual
place alongside the companion and saloon sky-
light The Commodore then took his departure,
and laid the course N.W.^W. About 5.30,
Spartel lighthouse being about three miles off,
as it was getting hazy, the Commodore thought
it advisable to signal our friend according to
promise. We signalled him two or three times,
but could not get any response. Our glasses
were scarcely strong enough to show a man at
that elevation at that distance off. We had at
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all events kept our promise, and we tumbled
down to dinner with good appetites and easy
consciences.
Tuesday, i^th May, — The weather was most
aggravating, the wind still remaining light and
shifty ; during the course of the day it changed
round to nearly every point of the compass, and
as the clouds were dull and threatening, we
scarcely knew what to expect ; as we more or
less anticipated, it freshened up considerably as
the evening advanced.
Next morning the wind was blowing suffi-
ciently hard for us to have to shift jibs and
take in a reef. There was a very nasty short
sea, and we were soon taking more water aboard
than we did in the gale in the Bay.
Smack ! — and some thirty or forty gallons of
water were racing aft, pouring down the fo'castle,
wetting all the men's bunks, then down the main
companion, while the rest disappeared through
the scuppers. Scarcely free of one wave before
another was on top of us ; go forward to shift
the sheets and you got a wave over you which
wet you through, in spite of oileys. Hold on
to the shrouds and you got a wave which came
to your middle, and when you did your trick
at the tiller you never knew the moment you
would be washed to the other side of the deck,
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IN AN EIGHTEEN' TONNE R 79
like your deck cushion, which was constantly
washed from under you. The little boat seemed
to know that we were not having a very gay
time of it, and struggled bravely against the
elements, coming up to time as bravely as any
man who ever stood in a twenty-four foot ring ;
but wind and sea were too much for her, and
all she could do was to keep her course and
bravely take her knocking about The wind
kept on increasing during the night, and next
morning it was blowing hard with a very heavy
sea. You could not stand in the cabin without
holding on, and you had to get your food the
best Way you could. The fire could not be lit
in the stove, and it was hopeless to attempt to
lay the cabin table.
One of the bookcases, screwed to the ceiling,
came away, and one of Colt's heavy revolvers,
which was in the rack on the port side, was flung
right across to the other, making a considerable
dent in the ceiling. It was most amusing to
notice how, when you came off your watch and
called up the next watch, " Now, then, wake up,
starboard watch ! " the individuals thus roused
from their sleep would look you over to see
if your oileys were streaming or not, and thus
get some idea of what they were going to ex-
change their warm bunks for.
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At 6.4 s the Commodore hove her to, sail-
ing her with foresail to mast. About i P.M.
— in my watch — to add to our troubles, we had
to tack to avoid a steamer. If there is one
thing more annoying than another, it is in having
to give way to these wretched channel and ocean
bullies. The rules of the road are plain enough.
All steamers must give way to sailing vessels ;
but the reverse is the case. Here we were
having a nasty thrash, doing our best to get an
extra mile or two out of her on each tack, and
we had to lose the benefit of perhaps a couple
of tacks to avoid being run down by a steamer.
Over and over again, not only on this cruise but
on others, we have had to tack "to get out of the
way of some wretched coasting collier. These
colliers are the curse of the channel. They most
likely come out of port with nearly all hands
helplessly drunk, one hand on deck, and that
the man at the wheel, and the rest below getting
over the effects of their last carouse, or, perhaps,
commencing another. The man at the wheel
has been set his course, and he is not going to
alter it a quarter of a point to avoid anything
which he thinks he can run down with impunity.
To them it means nothing if they run into a
small yacht or fishing smack. It would be some-
thing like a 'bus running down a perambulator
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IN AN EIGHTEEN- TONNE R 8 1
or a costermonger's cart. The yacht or smack
would be cut in two, while those on board the
steamer would scarcely feel the shock, and the
steamer would in all probability escape without
injury. If no one were rescued so much the
better, as dead men tell no tales ; but even if
some one is fortunate enough to survive, and
obtain the name of the vessel, and proceedings
are eventually taken against the captain and
owner of the offending boat, the decision of the
court of inquiry — as in a recent running down
case where one person was drowned — will be
something to this effect : We find the steamer
was entirely in fault ; no blame can be attached
to the captain of the yacht, and the court there-
fore Orders that the certificate of the captain of
the steamer shall be suspended for three months.
Can anything be more farcical ? Most likely
the captain takes a holiday for that time, receiving
all the time full pay from his employers — who
prefer a captain who drives along regardless of
everything and makes quick passages — or else
he acts as first mate, still receiving full money.
But suppose for one moment that he only receives
a first mate's pay for that three months, and gets
a berth directly his time has expired, is that an
adequate punishment for having wilfully and
deliberately imperilled the lives of tKree or four,
G
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or even a smaller number ? The driver of a 'bus
or van in our London streets who acted in that
way would be tried for manslaughter, so would
the driver of a locomotive, or even the captain of
a small steam launch on the upper Thames ;
but the captains of these colliers and steam
merchantmen seem to have a licence to murder.
Of course these remarks do not apply to the
large passenger vessels. These boats are well
navigated, carefully handled, and always strictly
observe the rule of the road. Till a steamer
captain or two has been hanged, or received a
sentence of penal servitude for life, the number of
missing smacks will continue to increase, and
small yachts will never be safe. An old yachts-
man, a great friend of mine, will never stop out
in the channel at night if he can possibly make
a harbour, as he says the danger of being run
down is too great
A well-built and well-found yacht of from 1 7
to 20 tons, properly handled and navigated, will
go anywhere, and with the exception of the risk
you run of being washed overboard, you are safer
on board a little yacht than on a big steamer.
The dangers proper of yachting can be summed
up in one word — Steamers.
The next day the wind went down a good
deial, and at midnight it was easy, though there
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IN AN EIGHTEEN' TONNE R 83
was Still a very nasty popple. At 2 on Saturday
morning — in my watch — we had to tack twice to
avoid steamers. At 10 A.M. the wind had
moderated so much that we were able to shake
out two reefs in the mainsail, one in the foresail,
and stand in for the Tagus. Going in by the
south channel, we ran up the river at a g^and
pace, but off Belem had to heave-to as usual to
wait for the quarantine officers. At last they
came off in a small steam launch and signalled
to us to come alongside; with the main -sheet
well hauled in we ran alongside and delivered our
papers, but the man had scarcely seized them with
his tongs before we had shot ahead. Hauling
the boom in till it was almost amidships, we still
ran ahead of them, although they were doing all
they knew to keep up with us. This did not
seem to please the officer in charge, who after-
wards turned out to be the sanitary doctor who
had made — or perhaps, I should rather say, had
tried to make — ^himself so agreeable on our first
visit to Lisbon. Having carefully perused our
papers, he roared out, as we were fast leaving the
launch astern, " Have you been anywhere else ? " —
" Yes, Algesiras," answered the Commodore. —
" Oh ! then you have quarantine ; go and anchor
over there," pointing to the anchorage in front of
the old convent of St. Jeronymite, " and put your
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flag up." Orvis came aft looking very much
disgusted, and the dirty yellow quarantine flag
was run up. " I thought he'd play you that
trick," he said, "because you didn't get him to
attend Mr. Mac when we were here last." Run-
ning in amongst some small coasters, all flying
the bilious yellow burgee, we brought up off" the
convent at 4.30.
Here was a nice state of affairs. We had had
an uncommonly nasty thrash from Tangiers lasting
six days, during which time we had scarcely ever
been dry, and certainly never had a square meal,
and here we were pinned up in quarantine within
sight of Lisbon for three days, simply because we
had touched at Algesiras — a place where, as I
have explained in earlier chapters, there is no
quarantine arrangements, and consequently a place
which could not be in the black list, and, as we
found out afterwards, was not in the list at all.
After dinner — only the second hot one since
we had left Tangiers — we had a long consultation
as to what was to be done. We all agreed that,
as we were entirely in the hands of the quarantine
officers, it would not be advisable to annoy them ;
while it was most necessary that we should have
an explanation as to the reason of our having
been put in quarantine, considering that all our
bills of health were clean ones. The Commodore
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IN AN EIGHTEEN-TONNER 85
solved the difficulty by proposing that next morn-
ing we should hoist F C V L— J V R— J V W of the
commercial code of signals, which meant : Wanted
fresh beef, butter, eggs and milk. He pointed
out that some one would have to answer the signal,
and then, when the sportsman came alongside, we
could press for an explanation. This was unani-
mously agreed to, and with full and final blessings
on all quarantine officers, we turned in.
The next morning I was awakened about 7
by a boat hailing us. I didn't turn out, as 1
don't see the force of doing that in harbour, but
listened anxiously. "You capitano, sar?" was
what I heard first, and then I recognised the oily
accent of the Commodore as he sweetly owned
to the spft impeachment. " What you want ? " —
"Why, fresh milk, eggs, meat, water, vegetables,
everything!" — "All right, sar, you may have
agent's boat alongside ; will tell him to come off."
He was evidently then going to row away, but
the Commodore roared out, " Here, I say, why
are we in quarantine ? " — ** I don't know, sar ; but
you can come ashore and see chief officer,"
and he then scuttled away. Not long afterwards
provisions of all sorts were brought on board, and
we sat down to a splendid breakfast.
It was a perfect morning. The wind had
dropped almost entirely, and the sun was shining
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as it never seems to shine in our "tight little
island." We brought cushions and pillows on
deck, filled our pipes, and while reposing com-
fortably, discussed our chances of being let off
our three days* boycotting. At 1 1 the Com-
modore went ashore to interview the chief quaran-
tine officer. It seemed to us hours before we
saw him returning, but directly we could make him
out we saw him shaking his head most ominously.
** No go," he said as he jumped on deck. — "Whom
did you see ? " I asked, as I thought if he had
interviewed the man who had put us into
quarantine there was no likelihood of getting any
remission of the sentence from him. — " The head
man," was the Commodore's doleful reply. —
"What did he say?" — "Only that the doctor
had put us in quarantine." — " What for ? " — " He
didn't know, but he was a good old sportsman ;
and although he put me in a sort of kennel,
and only spoke to me through a tiny aperture,
he was very civil. He said he would send up
to the doctor's private house and ask him his
reasons for putting us in quarantine." To cut
a long story short, at 2 the same day a boat
came off with a note, of which the following is a
faithful copy : —
" Mr. Captain — Doctor, chief officer of this Board of
Health, says, that he put you in quarantine, in consequence
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of your having touched some ports of the Mediterranean,
including Algesiras,
** Belem.
" The Interpreter of the Board of Health.
"J. Mascasenhas.
"17/5/85."
When the Commodore read it, he was simply
frantic. "Algesiras," he said, "is not in the
Mediterranean." — "Then come ashore and bring
your log and chart," said the officer in charge. —
" Certainly," said the Commodore ; and then to us
in a stage whisper, " By Jove, I must scratch that
out." It appeared that when he had been ordered
into quarantine, he had made the following entry
in the log : " Brought up by order of quarantine
officers (idiots)." This, however, was carefully
altered into ''pro tern " before he went ashore.
Luckily he was not asked to show his log, for
when he convinced them from the chart that
Algesiras was not in the Mediterranean, they let
us go, as we had clean bills of health from every
other place, having been imprisoned for twenty-
two hours through their own ignorance. We soon
hauled down the quarantine flag, and getting
under- way, brought up at our old anchorage at 3.
As we were all dying to get ashore and stretch
our legs, after having been cooped up in a little
boat for six days, we lost no time over our
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toilettes, and were soon on terra firma. After
indulging in the luxury of a bottle of English
beer, we had a bath and a shampoo, and sat down
to an excellent dinner at the " Hotel Centrale,"
which we did full justice to.
At 10.30 next morning, according to arrange-
ment, the proprietor of the hotel had a carriage
and pair waiting to take us to Cintra. The
drive, until you get to Cintra itself, is most un-
interesting. We stopped at a small village, the
name of which I was unable to catch, about half-
way, in order to feed the horses, but it struck us
forcibly that the coachman did all the eating and
drinking. I certainly did not see the horses get
anything to eat or drink, but I did see the
coachman pour vinegar over their loins : none of
us had ever heard of this practice before, and I
cannot imagine what possible benefit it can be.
The whole time we were detained at the little
inn we were of course persecuted by the usual
swarm of loathsome mendicants. I say loath-
some, because to obtain your pity they expose
their deformities or open sores, and sometimes
the sight is most sickening. Getting bolder, the
small boys and girls — nearly all of them suffering
from sore eyes — invaded our room, and we had
to take refuge in our carriage. After driving for
about one hour and a half more over an ex-
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IN AN EIGHTEEN'TONNER 89
tensive heath, we reached the foot of a rocky
mountain, but well clothed with trees ; bearing to
the right of it we entered a pretty village, nestling
under the shadow of the rock, and turning sharp
to the left round the base of the mountain, Cintra
lay before us.
'* Lo ! Cintra's glorious Eden intervenes
In variegated maze of mount and glen.
Ah, me ! what hand can pencil guide, or pen,
To follow half on which the eye dilates ;
Through views more dazzling unto mortal ken,
Than those whereof such things the bard relates —
Who to the awe-struck world unlock'd Elysium's gates ?
The horrid crags, by toppling convent crowned.
The cork trees hoar, that clothe the shaggy steep,
The mountain moss, by scorching skies unbrowned.
The sunken glen, whose sunless shrubs must weep,
The tender azure of the unruffled deep,
The orange tints that gild the greenest bough.
The torrents that from cliff to valley leap,
The vine on high, the willow branch below,
Mixed in one mighty scene with varied beauty glow."
The road now runs downhill to the village, or
town. On the right, in the valley far below, a
fantastic group of buildings attracts the eye ; it
looks more like a collection of used-up lime-kilns
than anything else. We could not ask our
coachman, as we had found out a long time
before that he could only speak Portuguese ; but
when we arrived at " Lawrence's Hotel," we were
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informed that that building was the Palaccio Real,
and the conical buildings were merely the kitchen
chimneys.
Cintra is situated in a fertile basin, surrounded
by rocky mountains — but all the same well
covered with trees and verdure, which hide the
sea from view ; but from any of these heights,
especially from the Palaccio de Pena, a view can
be obtained which baffles description. We were
told that it was from there that a look-out was
kept to see if there were any signs of Vasco de
Gama's returning fleet, and it appears that from
that point it was discovered. After an excellent
lunch, which did not lose anything by being served
to us by a charming English Hebe, we took
mules to ride up to the Palaccio de Pena — better
known, I believe, as Pena Convent, as it formerly
belonged to the monks of the beautiful Jeronymite
convent at Belem, which we had so many oppor-
tunities of studying when we were anchored off" it
during our twenty-two hours' quarantine. It was
fearfully hot — not a breath of air, and the road
which zigzagged up the mountain was uncom-
monly steep. Imagine my delight when, after
having gone about one hundred yards, my mule
declined to go a foot farther. The muleteer
exerted his utmost powers of persuasion, which
consisted in striking the poor beast over the head
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IN AN EIGHTEEN-TONNER 91
with a formidable-looking bludgeon, but it was no
good, and I had to make the rest of the ascent
on foot, hauling the beast after me, while the
muleteer brought up the rear. I must honestly
confess that my companions were just as stubborn
as the mule, as, although I did my best to
persuade them to get off and let me ride instead,
they all turned a deaf ear to my convincing
arguments and refused to assist me in any way.
I think I felt the disappointment I experienced at
finding them so selfish, more than the heat and
labour of the climb. Presently we reached the
gates, and leaving our mules, entered the gardens.
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CHAPTER IX
The change was wonderful : from the strong glare
of the sun and the intense heat we entered into
profound shadow and a deliciously cool atmo-
sphere. It was as if we had stepped from the
sunny side of the road — on which only dogs and
Englishmen walk, according to a Spanish saying
— into some old cathedral ; only in our case we
had trees for pillars, and the roof was a beautiful
canopy of graceful foliage, which sheltered us
effectually from the sun's scorching rays. " Soft
mossy lawns. Beneath these canopies extend
their swells, fragrant with perfumed herbs and
eyed with blooms, minute yet beautiful." Flower-
ing shrubs and choice ferns were there in profusion,
and the murmur of falling water could be heard
on every side. The walks have, nearly all, been
cut out of the living rock, and the labour must
have been very heavy. The building is con-
structed on the very summit of the peak, and the
ramparts which surround it are also hewn out of
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the solid rock. The cloisters — a charming place
to meditate, smoke, or flirt in — have been left
very much as they were when the unlucky monks
were driven out from this terrestrial paradise.
There is nothing very particular about the old
monastery itself, but it was some time before we
could tear ourselves away from the lovely pano-
rama which stretched out below us. Far away to
the west was the blue Atlantic, in front was the
mouth of the Tagus, and turning to the north, as
far as the eye could see, were miles and miles of
plain, only broken by "Mafra's majestic pile.*'
However, we had to think about getting back.
Reluctantly we left the charming scene, and found
our mules patiently waiting for us. I had no
trouble with my animal, and we had an exciting
ride back to the hotel. I have already mentioned
in a former chapter that the road zigzagged up
to the convent ; coming back the muleteer ran
behind us, distributing resounding blows most
impartially among the mules, then ran down the
face of the hill, perhaps catching us in time at the
lower corner to favour the mules with some more
of his attentions, and so on to the bottom. We
had a pleasant drive back, dined at the " Centrale,"
and went on board early, taking with us a gentle-
man whom we had met at the hotel on our
former visit, and who had agreed to go with us
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as far as Vigo, on condition that he was to
be allowed to go as passenger, and would not be
called upon to keep watch, or do anything else.
The Commodore readily excused him, and we were
very glad of his company, but Mac complained
bitterly, and said it was not at all fair.
Next morning, the 13th, we got under-way
about 7 o'clock, and with a light breeze dropped
down the Tagus. About 8.30, the wind begin-
ning to freshen, the Commodore took in a reef
and got the dinghy on board, and made it fast in
its usual place. At mid-day it was blbwing very
hard, and the wind had shifted from N. to N.b.W.,
so we took in second and third reefs, then we
tacked in for the land and commenced another
enjoyable thrash. At 3 o'clock. Cape Roca bear-
ing east, we let go the log. The rest of the
afternoon we kept tacking on and off the land.
At 4.15 we hauled the log and found we had
done seven miles, which, as it was done on a
wind, was not encouraging. All night long we
were at it, perpetually shifting sheets, and getting
a ducking every time ; it had turned cold too,
and the consumption of rum was prodigious.
Mr. J , our Lisbon friend, had decidedly the
best of it ; and when Mac and I came off our
watch, wet through, and saw him slumbering
peacefully in his warm bunk, I agreed with Mac
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IN AN EIGHTEEN'TONNER 95
that it was a disgusting sight. At 3 we sighted
the Burlins h'ght, bearing N.N.E., and not long
afterwards passed it, taking the outside course.
In the morning the wind eased up a bit, so at
1.15 the Commodore set second jib and shook
out two reefs in the mainsail. At 6 o'clock
the wind commenced to freshen, and at 8 it
was blowing very hard from north-west, so it
looked as if we were going to have another
night's fun. At 12, midnight, the wind shifted
to N.N.W., and we had a succession of heavy
squalls.
Next morning, although the ^Vind had died
away completely, there was a very heavy swell
running, and the boat rolled about in a way that
was anything but comfortable. At 2.30 burst
reef earring, and hove -to and shook out reef.
At 3 o'clock, the roll being very heavy, we burst
the main-outhaul. As we hoped to fetch Vigo
that evening, a sharp look-out was kept for
Bayona Island ; towards evening, however, it came
on hazy, and as the light is one of the highest in
the world, being over 600 feet above the level of
the sea, it is consequently very often obscured by
the clouds. We certainly could not make it out,
but the Commodore decided to run in. About
8 o'clock we could just make out Bayona
Island towering out of the water right ahead of
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US, but even then we could not make out any
light The weather had been getting thicker and
thicker, making it impossible to see any distance.
The Commodore was bent on getting in that
night, and so we stood in by the north passage.
It was ticklish work, as you could not see fifty
yards. Orvis was steering, Jack was in the bows
on the look-out, the Commodore and I were
standing by the shrouds on the port side, when
presently Jack roared out, "Breakers ahead!"
Yes, there they were quite clear, and we could
hear the roar of the water as it beat against the
submerged rocks.
" Down with the helm ! '* yelled the Com-
modore, and with a swish the little boat came
round, and we stood out to sea again, after as
narrow a little shave as any of us were ever in.
Only those who have experienced it can realise
the effect produced by those two simple words,
" Breakers ahead !" I cannot describe it, but I
know it sent a cold shiver down my back, and I
did not feel better till we were well out at sea
again. Three or four minutes more and we would
have been hard and fast on the rocks, and with
such a heavy swell rolling it would not have been
long before nothing but the Chiripds bones had
been left for the seas to lick, and of course we
would not have stood a chance with the Berthon,
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IN AN EIGHTEEN' TONNER 97
even if we had succeeded in launching it The
Commodore, after having taken in a reef, hove her
to on the port tack, and I turned in.
Next morning we found we had drifted a
long way back, and as the wind was very light
we did not bring up at Vigo till half-past seven
P.M. By the time we had made her snug, it was
too late to think of going ashore, so we dined on
board. It was quite a comfort to be able to have
the table laid and to be able to eat like a Chris-
tian, off a plate, and without having to hold on.
Early next morning Manuelo was alongside
with everything we could desire, amongst other
things some delicious strawberries, and we had a
splendid breakfast Coming on board about i
for our lunch, we saw that the VanadiSy a steam
yacht of 300 tons, had come in, and while we
were at lunch, her owner came on board and
kindly invited us all to dine with him that night,
and the Commodore accepted the invitation. We
spent the afternoon idling about the shore and
showing Mr. J the sights, and we did not
forget to call on the manager of the " Hotel Con-
tinental " and sample some English beer. At half-
past six the steam launch from the Vanadis was
kindly sent to fetch us, and we spent a delightful
evening on board. About eleven o'clock we bade
good-bye to our kind host, who expressed his
H
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doubts as to our ever getting back to England,
and he also said that " although he was going to
Stop at Vigo two days and two at Corunna, he
would be back at Southampton before we were."
His prophecy, however, did not come true, as we
were at Southampton at least ten days before
him.
The next morning the Vanadis party paid us
a visit, and were pleasantly surprised at the extent
of the Chiripds accommodation. We exchanged
books, and were delighted to get something fresh
to read. We informed our friends of the curious
news we had heard at the Consul's that morning,
i,e, that the cholera had broken out in England,
and, of all places in the world, at Durham, but
we could not fancy cholera in that dreariest of
cathedral towns. The Commodore told them he
would get under-way after lunch, and they said
they would look out for us, and wishing us a safe
passage they steamed away. Lunch despatched,
our friend, Mr. J , wished us good-bye, and
was put ashore by Jack, it being his intention to
return to Lisbon by train. Before we say good-
bye to Mr. J I think I ought here to repeat
a story — not an anecdote, but a fact — which he
told us. We had been complaining to him about
the way in which we had been mobbed whenever
we went to the theatre at Lisbon, and at the
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IN AN EIGHTEEN-TONNER 99
same time expressed our astonishment at the
unusual amount of politeness we received from
the manager and all the employees at the hotel.
So far as the mobbing at the theatre went, we
had attributed it, more or less, to our costume,
because, as our wardrobe was limited, and we
never knew what weather we might have to go
off in, we always went ashore in blue flannels,
yachting caps, and shoes. We had raised the
question one evening, over our pipes, when he
said, much to our amusement, " Why, don't you
really know ? " — ** No, certainly not," was our
reply ; ** unless it was our generally disreputable
appearance." — " Nothing of the kind. The fact is,
it was in all the papers when you first arrived
that you were four English noblemen who had
made a very heavy wager that they would do the
trip from England to Gibraltar and back ; and
the manager told me that lots of people came to
the hotel simply to stare at the representatives of
England's old nobility." I can only hope we did
it credit. While Jack was away a big bouquet
of fresh flowers was affixed to the Chiripds bow-
sprit, the anchor was weighed and made fast
inboard, and under all plain sail, we bore down
on the VanadiSy running close alongside, we dipped,
and, with waving of hats and handkerchiefs, bade
good-bye to the Vanadis and to Vigo.
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CHAPTER X
It was a perfect day — ^just such a day as we
had when we left Vigo for Lisbon — and we looked
forward hopefully to a pleasant crossing. There
was next to no wind, but what there was, was
from the north, so it was not till 7.30 that
we got clear of Bayona Island, going through
the north passage. We were very glad when
we were clear, as it was rather thick, and it
was fast getting thicker. At 8.30 the wind
freshened up considerably, so we hove-to, took in
two reefs, and shifted to fourth jib. There was a
nasty lumpy sea running, and we shipped a lot of
water. After midnight, to our great joy, the haze
commenced to lift and the wind eased.
Next day, 26th May, broke nice and fine.
We met several steamers during the day. Shortly
after mid-day the Commodore shook out two
reefs, and we set second jib. At 7 o'clock
we tacked in to Finisterre light, bearing N.b.E.,
and distant about five miles. Hour after hour
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did we stand on and off the shore, but we did
not seem able to shake off the light It was a
lovely night, quite clear, and a bright moon. I
think the moon must have been accountable for
it, as during our watch Mac concocted the follow-
ing poem, with which he favoured us the next
morning : —
"To THE Commodore.
** When at the helm I breathed a prayer,
But you were hard of hearing,
That when I reached Cape Finisterre,
That I might finish steering."
At I o'clock A.M. Finisterre light, then bear-
ing E.^S., suddenly disappeared. The Com-
modore then laid course north-east, and took
departure. It was such a lovely night that I
did not mind yielding to Mac's entreaties to dog
one watch, as there was certainly no necessity
for more than two to be on deck at a time.
When I relieved Mac and came on deck I went
forward as usual to inspect our side lights, and
found the starboard one had gone out, so I came
aft and took the tiller from Orvis, while he went
below to trim and re-light it I was alone on
deck, not the first time by many, but this was
such a perfect night that one could, for a short
time at least, realise "how passing sweet is
solitude." I know nothing so impressive as to
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be alone at sea at night. The feeble glimmer
which straggles through the saloon skylight, and
the light from the binnacle, only seem to throw
the forward part of the vessel into deeper shadow.
No lights in sight, no land, and no sound, except
the splash of the water as a sea occasionally
strikes the vessel, or a porpoise playing round,
brings his head out of the water with a splash
and a snort, close by where you are sitting steer-
ing, causing you, the first time you hear it at
night, to jump and almost fall off your cushion.
If it is impressive in calm weather, it is awesome
when rough. It is then you really realise the
sea's irresistible power.
In a few minutes Orvis came up, and having lit
his pipe, began to entertain me with one of his
yarns. He is a first-class watch mate, as he has
got an inexhaustible fund of stories, which he re-
lates with much humour, so that the time passes
merrily, and you can scarcely believe you have been
on deck for four hours. One of his yarns, and one
which I never heard without laughing, will, I think,
bear repetition here. Talking about the meanness
of a certain large yacht owner, he used to say,
" You may laugh, sir, but it's perfectly true ; the
very mice on board that boat used to go about with
tears in their eyes for want of something to eat"
That night there was scarcely any wind, and
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IN AN EIGHTEEN- TONNER 103
yet, in the Bay^ we had to tack no less than four
times to avoid the yachtsman's curse — steamers.
In the morning we had a fresh breeze S.W.b.W.,
and the sky was overcast About mid-day the
wind softened, but only for us to have it very
thick about an hour afterwards, and then, to
make things still more comfortable, we had some
nice fine rain.
Next evening we passed an English-armoured
turret ship, of the Glatton class ; she was going
more under than over the water, her decks being
a-wash, and was apparently making shocking bad
weather of it I don't think any one of us on
board the Chiripa would have willingly changed
places with the individuals on board that vessel,
though it was one of our glorious iron kettles.
29/A May. — It was still raining, but we had
a fair breeze. About 8 o'clock P.M. we took
soundings with armoured lead, got eighty fathoms,
and brought up white shells, showing we were
off the Ushant As this may not be quite in-
telligible to some of my readers, I will attempt to
explain it
The charts have marked on them the depth of
water you will find in the different degrees of
latitude and longitude, and besides that, they
tell you what the character of the bottom is in
those places, ue. whether it is rock or shells, or
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sand, or clay, or even what sort of sand, or shell,
or clay you ought to meet with. I may further
say that an armoured lead is a lead with an
opening in the base, which is filled up with tallow
or some greasy substance, to which the sand,
shells, etc., adhere ; therefore, when the lead
showed eighty fathoms and we brought up the
white shells, we knew we were off the Ushant
There are lots of fishermen who know nothing
whatever about navigation, but who will take you
half round the coast of England by the use of
the lead line alone.
30/A. — A shocking nasty raw morning, with a
horrid drizzle. We were once more getting into
our detestable English climate, and pea-jackets
and mufflers were again in demand. The Com-
modore became rather anxious at not making
land, although for the last week he had begun
to distrust his patent log. According to the log,
we ought to have been close home, but we could
see no signs of land. As there was a nasty haze,
the Commodore's anxiety increased, and when at
three o'clock we sighted the barque Achille^ of
Dunkerque, he determined to speak her and verify
his position ; accordingly we ran alongside. It
was a long job, as, although we were sailing with
our foresail to the mast, we would shoot right
ahead of the old tub before we had time to get
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IN AN EIGHTEEN- TONNER 105
an answer, and then have to come round and
repeat the process. However, we found our posi-
tion was quite correct, and the log had played us
the trick.
About 4 o'clock P.M. it came on very thick,
and Jack was set to work with the fog horn, or,
as it is endearingly called, the little squeaker.
I remember once being in Dieppe harbour, and
a French yacht lay close to us ; the sailors be-
longing to it made night hideous with their songs
and their violent but unsuccessful attempts to
extract melody from a concertina. We in the
cabin did not like it at all, and it was evident
that our men liked it less, as one night, when the
concert on board the neighbouring boat had
nearly driven us frantic. Jack came on deck — of
course with something more than Orvis's tacit
permission — and played the little squeaker till
they were reduced to silence. Every night after
that, when they started a concert Jack did so
too, and he was always left in possession of the
field.
It got thicker and thicker, and so at 7
o'clock the Commodore hove -to. We had a
hideous night of it ; all round us we could hear
the steamers whistling, and never knew the
moment we might not see the bows of some
adjectived collier towering above us. At 10
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o'clock the haze lifted and we sailed her again,
and at 11.15 we sighted the Eddystone, bearing
N.^E.
When we came on deck after breakfast next
morning the fog had cleared away and the sun
was shining brightly, as if to welcome us on our
return. Right ahead of us we could see Rame
Head. Several times during the morning we
were hailed by fishermen asking us where we were
from, and I fancy this must have been on account
of the Chiripa's battered, rakish, and generally
disreputable appearance. A little after ten o'clock
we passed the west end of the breakwater and
entered Plymouth Sound, having been seven weeks
away. What a different appearance it presented
to when we were there last Then there were
only a few fishing smacks, two or three small
yachts anchored off the pier, a revenue cutter and
one steamer. Now it looked animated and
positively gay, for some twenty or more ocean-
going steamers — the finest of their class, among
them the Oregotty which has since been lost in a
very mysterious way off Newfoundland — newly
painted, decked with all their available bunting
and with steam up, were brought up waiting for
orders, never, alas, to arrive.
They were the vessels commissioned to take
out stores and the troops who were going to peg
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IN AN EIGHTEEN' TONNER 107
back the Russians. It made one's heart glad to
think that at last we were going to put a stop to
Russia's insolence, and at all events put a check
on her further advance. But it was not to
be, and after wasting millions of money, we drew
back as usual. When the Russians get to Herat,
I suppose we shall find that it is not necessary
for our defence of India, and so on and so on,
till they are in India itself, and then, as usual,
it will be too late. At 11.30 we brought up
inside the Cattwater, and a few minutes after the
Custom-House officers came on board. High and
low they searched ; in the bunks, in the drawers,
under the cushions, in the wine lockers, not a
place was left unvisited ; but as there was nothing
to find they went away empty-handed. In all
my experience I have never known a yacht treated
in that way before, and I can only come to the
conclusion that the officials at Plymouth are
unusually polite. It may be as well to mention
that this was the only time in the whole cruise
that we were searched, or, in fact, had any un-
pleasantness. It was a nice welcome home. We
hurried ashore, as we wanted to stretch our legs,
and we were all anxious to see if English beer
still retained its flavour. We took the dogs
ashore, it being only the second time that they
had had a run since leaving Vigo, and the puppy
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had only once been ashore since we bought him
at Algesiras. Anything more ridiculous than his
walk it would be almost impossible to imagine,
and even now at the time I write he has not been
able to get over his sea roll. He walks exactly as
if he had extremely high-heeled boots on his hind
legs, so that his quarters are at times at right
angles with his fore body. He kept us in roars
of laughter, and was an unfailing source of attrac-
tion to all the small boys and gals in Plymouth.
At first we could not make out why everybody
we met turned round to stare at us, but it presently
seemed to us that our complexions were rather
darker than the majority of the people we met ;
and not having shaved since we left England, w6
presented rather a hirsute and ragged appearance.
A visit to the nearest hairdresser, and things were
soon put right ; but unfortunately in getting shaved
we made matters rather worse, as the parts of our
faces which had been protected were quite fair,
and the rest of the skin was almost as black as a
hat Our appearance was most ludicrous, and we
could scarcely look at one another without laughing.
The Commodore lunched and dined with us at
the Grand Hotel on the Hoe, and went up to
town by the night train, as he had to be in
town by 10.30 next morning, kindly leaving the
boat at our disposal. The Commodore caught
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IN AN EIGHTEEN' TONNE R 109
his train and kept his appointment, which he had
made before he left England ; as great a feat of
punctuality as any of Monte Christo's. He had
travelled nearly 2800 miles, reckoning it from
Aldeburgh, in a small sailing yacht, and only
arrived at Plymouth about twenty -four hours
before time, having about fifteen hours to "Spare.
The next day Mac and I took things very
easily. For once in a way we were not disturbed
in our sleep by the odious cry of, " Now then, port
watch, turn out," and we were able to sleep the
sleep of the just.
Monday^ \st June, — We loafed about, bathed,
and enjoyed ourselves thoroughly. We made
arrangements with Hawke to have the boat photo-
graphed, and next day several instantaneous photos
were taken from the Cattwater. Wednesday
morning we got under-way, bound for Southampton.
There was a nasty haze and a very light wind.
About 3 o'clock we were becalmed, and in a
very ugly fog. About four hundred yards off on
our port quarter was a large schooner becalmed
also. Of course the little squeaker was brought
into use, and day or night, it was hard to say
which it was, was made hideous. Presently we
heard the whistle of a steamer, but from which
direction the sound came was, as is often the case
in a fog, hard to make out ; but presently I saw
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no TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK
Orvis rush forward, seize the little squeaker from
Jack, and blow through it, for all he was worth.
" Good Heavens ! *' he roared, " she'll be into us."
We then made out that a big steamer was bearing
straight down upon us. We were utterly helpless ;
there was not even sufficient wind to make the
sails flap, and an accident seemed inevitable.
Suddenly it seemed that the people on the
steamer had perceived us, as her helm was put
hard a-starboard, which would have had the effect
of clearing us and going outside of us, but just as
we thought we were all right, they put the helm
hard a-port, and once more we thought they were
coming into us ; however, they raced by between
us and the schooner at a pace which, considering
how the fog was, was certainly most dangerous.
The steamer came close enough to us for me to
read her name, and I saw she was the Electray
which, I believe, belongs to one of the telegraph
companies.
The wind continued light We called in at
Southampton for our dinghy, and found that the
steamer which had heliographed us had reported
having seen us off* Lisbon, and that, so far as they
could make out, we had lost our boat and topmast,
and that we must certainly have foundered in the
gale which they met with two hours afterwards.
We stopped the night at Southampton, and got
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IN AN EIGHTEEN'TONNER
under-way early next morning; nottoo early, but just
early enough, as Mac and I are quite of one mind
that it is a great mistake to make a toil of pleasure.
Somehow or other the anchor would not come up,
and in a weak moment I volunteered to help. As
there is very little room in the bows, the Com-
modore is obliged to have one of the patent
windlasses, worked by a lever. I had an hour of
this amusement, as our anchor had got foul of
some moorings, and we had to keep on heaving it
up a little and then letting it out again. If any
one wants to get into condition I would recommend
a little of this exercise, as I believe the treadmill
must be child's play to it. Directly it was up, I
went below to refresh, and Mac followed, as he
thought that no doubt I might not care to drink
by myself While we were thus pleasantly
occupied I heard a good deal of cheering, and
going up the companion, I found Orvis was
receiving quite an ovation from the different
yachts as we ran by, so I once more retreated
below. We had nothing but light winds, calms,
and fogs from here to Dover, where we eventually
brought up in the Wick at 5 o'clock A.M., on
Monday, June the 8th, thus bringing a delightful
cruise to a successful termination.
The dire forebodings of the croakers, cowards,
and Solent sailors had not been realised. I
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112 TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK
cannot conclude without saying that in his choice
of the crew Orvis had shown himself a shrewd
judge of character, as no matter what the circum-
stances might be, they were always cool and
courageous, cheerful and civil. We had no
grumblers on board, and it will give me much
pleasure to ship with them again, even if only as
one of the crew.
Note. — Since the above was written I have seen a
copy of the report of the Commissioners appointed to inquire
into the cause of the upsetting of the life-boats off Southport,
on the night of December the loth, 1886. The Daily
Telegraph described it as " An Awful Night at Sea." I sec
from the report that "at Lytham it was blowing 7 by
Beaufort's scale." In the gale we were in the Bay, on
April the 13th and 14th, the wind was registered at Biarritz
as blowing 9, of course by the same scale. One may then
fairly assume that it was blowing at least 10 outside. That
being the case, I think we may fairly claim to have once
more established the fact that a small boat, well built; well
found, and properly handled, will go anywhere, and live in
almost any sea.
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APPENDIX
As the majority of those who read the newspapers
nowadays never think of looking at or for the shipping
intelligence — which is generally printed in small type
and hidden away in some obscure comer — and would
never know or believe that a vessel was ever lost in any
other.but the orthodox ways so dear to novelists, such as
springing a leak, being wrecked, or catching fire, if their
attention was not every now and then attracted, by a
sensational headline printed in heavy leaded type, to the
exciting details of some fearful disaster, such as the loss
of the North Fleets the miming down of the Princess
AlicCy or perhaps the collision between the royal yacht
and the Mistletoe^ I have for their benefit, and as a
justification of what I have said about the reckless way
in which steamers are now navigated, compiled a list as
nearly complete as possible of the yachts, sailing vessels,
barges, etc., which have been mn down or come into
collision with steamers during the last thirteen years.
This list of course deals only with those cases where
I have been able to find a full report, but how often
does it occur that the poor fisherman's wife waits at the
end of the pier or jetty, with one little one in her arms
I
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114 APPENDIX
and a little toddler hanging on to her skirts, straining
her eyes gazing out to sea heedless of the spindrift
which flies in her face, bedraggling her scanty gown,
running down on to her for the moment forgotten babe,
and making her other little one cry petulantly to " mither "
to take her home, — wearily waiting for the bread-winner,
never, alas ! to return.
Several smacks missing, supposed to have been lost
in the last gale, will be all the notice in the paper ; but
to those who really know the seaworthiness of our
smacks, and how ably they are handled, this report will
not be hurriedly accepted, but they will heartily sym-
pathise, and will understand what is meant when they
hear some fishermen say, "Poor Bill! lost? Not he,
run down by one of them steamers." No report
appears, those on board the steamer feel nothing,^ and
perhaps know nothing, only a smack is missing !
Cases where steamers have been run down or come
into collision with other steamers are not given, nor
those where sailing vessels have come into collision
with other sailing vessels. I have besides set out nine
judgments — taken at random from the reported Board
of Trade Inquiries, with the exception that I have given
the preference to those cases of collision which have
been attended with loss of life — in order that the public
may see for themselves the value which our officials place
on the lives of those who are foolish enough to go to sea.
When one reads a judgment something hke the
* In the case of the running down of the yacht May Fly^ a schooner
of lao tons, it was reported after the accident by some of those on
board the steamer that they feh nothing, and did not know that any-
thing had happened till they heard the cries of the drowning people.
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APPENDIX 115
iollowing — and it is not an isolated instance — where an
open boat on the high seas, in broad daylight and in
perfectly calm weather, had been run down by a steamer
because the officer in charge of the steamer imagined he
would just miss the boat, and therefore kept going
ahead till too late to avoid an accident, thinking he
would chance it, and consequently several lives were
lost ; and one then reads that the Court decided that the
officer was to blame for not giving way to the boat
according to the Regulations, yet they could only say
it was an error of judgment, and considering his ex-
cellent character, they did not propose to deal with his
certificate, one is frightened to express what one really
feels. Just fancy a station-master, in^bold defiance of
the rules for the Regulation of Traffic, letting a train go
on because he thought he could chance it: would
that man be let down so easily? Take another case
which is quoted at the end of this Appendix, where the
mate of the steamer — this was in the Channel too — was
found to blame for not having kept a proper look-out,
and having only one man on deck, and where the Court
said "the steamer was not navigated in a seamanlike
manner." This was also a fatal collision, but will any
one venture to say that if the same sort of accident (?) had
happened on shore the accused would have got off in
the same ridiculously easy manner ? Let the reader go
through these cases and judge for himself.
This list does not pretend, at least so far as the ten
years from 1875 to 1885, to be by any means a
complete one, as for that period they have been taken
only from The Fields which I imagine simply mentions
cases of collisions where yachts are concerned, and very
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ii6 APPENDIX
likely is not able to spare the space to report every case
which occurs. It must also be borne in mind that the
number of yachts which are put in commission every year
is very limited, and that the majority of them are not in
commission for more than four months.
For the remaining three years, from 1885 to 1888,
I have gone to the pages of the Shipping Gazettey which,
I believe, is the official paper.
There are three other cases of collision besides those
I have set out at the end, in two of which several lives
were lost, but which I have not set out, or taken into
account in any way, as I have been unable to find a full
report, and without the report of the Board of Trade
Inquiry before me I am unwilling to apportion the
blame. One of these must be fresh in the public mind,
as I believe an illustration of the accident appeared in
more than one paper. I refer to the running down of
the mission smack (belonging to the Society for Provid-
ing Mission Vessels for the North Sea Fishermen), when
four lives were lost; another is the sinking of the
Kalqfish (yacht), when both the owner and his wife were
drowned ; and the last is the running down of the pilot
cutter {Maiden) in fine weather and in broad daylight off
Aldeburgh. In the analysis which follows I have only
laid the blame on the steamer or sailing vessel when the
decision arrived at by the Court has been such as to
leave no doubt in any one's mind, and all other cases
where there is a shadow of doubt I have put both
vessels down as in fault. Looking through all these
cuttings, it appears from my collection that in the
thirteen years, from 1874 to 1888, there have been 130
cases of collision or running down, in which 129 lives
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APPENDIX 117
were lost. While all the blame has been attached to
the steamer, in no less than 60 occasions out of the 85
where I have been able to find that there has been an
inquiry, or an action at law, in only 1 6 cases have the
sailing vessels or barges been proved to have been in the
wrong. Blame has been attached to both in 6 instances,
and only 3 cases have been found to have been acci-
dental. It is scarcely necessary to point out to any one
that a captain of a steamer has far greater command
over his ship than the captain of a sailing vessel, but
in spite of that we find, out of the reports which I have
been able to discover, that the number of occasions when
steamers were held in fault was 60 to 16 of the sailing
vessels; while the loss of life occasioned by these
collisions was for the former 72, and for the latter 14.
Some one may say that I have only accounted for 85 out
of 130 cases, but the reason for that is that I have
been unable to find that any proceedings were taken in
the others. With the exception of one case, where it was
decided that both yachts were to blame, I have been
unable to find a single instance where it has been held
that the yacht has not been navigated with proper and
seamanlike care, or where a proper look-out has not been
kept It is satisfactory to note that out of all the cases
I have set out — where an inquiry has been held or
legal proceedings have ensued — that in two only has the
Court come to the decision that the officer or officers in
command were guilty of inhumanity — by that is meant
not attempting to save life — but I much regret to have
to say that in both those cases the vessels were English,
commanded by English officers and manned (?) by
Englishmen.
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1x8 APPENDIX
FROM *THE FIELD'
1 8th December 1875 to 5th December 1885
1 8th December 1875. — The *Lady Ambrosine* (s.) v.
the * Princess Royal.' Collision.
I St April 1876. — Collision with a yacht the *Ytene* v.
the * Solent ' (s.) Moens v. Solent Steam Packet
Company,
ist January 1881. — The yacht *Lily' and a tug.
Collision.
5th August 1882. — The yacht 'Wave Queen' and
the * St Malo ' (s.) Collision.
29th July 1882. — Loss of the *May Fly.' Collision.
* Valhalla ' (s.) and ' May Fly.' Six lives lost.
9th September 1882. — Board of Trade Inquiry into the
running down of the yacht * May Fly.'
2 2d September 1883. — Loss of the 'Challenge.'
Collision. * Ossian ' (s.), * Challenge.'
26th April 1884. — ^The 'Enchantress.' Running down
case. ' India ' (s.), * Enchantress.'
28th June 1884. — Sinking of the 'Olga.' Running
down case. * Violet ' (s.), * Olga.'
6th September 1882. — Collision in the Solent, a yacht
sunk. 'Prince Leopold' (s.), 'Juanita.'
15 th November 1882. — The 'Vanessa.' Collision.
• Don ' (s.), ' Vanessa.' One life lost.
6th December 1882. — Collision, the 'Vanessa' and
' Don ' (s). Board of Trade Inquiry.
5th December 1885. — The collision between yachts
off Cowes. ' Brilliant ' (s.), ' Avalanche.'
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APPENDIX 119
FROM THE 'SHIPPING GAZETTE'
23d January 1885 to December 1887
23d January 1885. — Before Mr. Justice Butt The
* Magdeburgh * (s.) v, the * Henry Villard.* Collision.
Seven lives lost
23d January 1885. — Before Mr. Justice Butt The
* Luke Bruce ' «^. the * Durango.' Collision. Whole
crew drowned with exception of mate, who died
very shortly afterwards.
23d January 1885. — Before Sir F. Roxburgh, Q.C
The * Alice ' v, the steam-tug * Cruiser.' Collision.
9th January 1885. — Before Mr. Commissioner Kerr.
The 'Ostrich' (s.) Collision, dumb barge *Ban
Righ.'
6th February 1885. — Before Mr. Justice Butt The
* Union ' v, the * Kuikoura ' (s.) Collision.
6th February 1885. — ^The *Dione' v. the 'Camden.'
Collision. Twenty-four lives lost
27th February 1885. — Before Sir F. Roxburgh, Q.C.
The 'Pride of the Yare' v. the 'Speedwell' (s.)
Collision.
27th February 1885.— Before Mr. Justice Butt The
' Santa Clara ' v, ' Admiral Moorson ' (s.) Collision.
13th March 1885. — House of Lords. Owners of the
* Elysia ' v, owners of the ' Emily ' (s.) Collision.
2oth March 1885. — Before the Recorder. The
' Endeavour ' (s.), ' Rose ' v. Great Yarmouth Steam
Carrying Company. Collision with a raft
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120 APPENDIX
2d April 1885. — Before Mr. Justice Butt The
' Union ' v, * Kuikoura ' (s.) Collisioa
loth April 1885. — The * James Billenan' v. the *E1
Darando ' (s.) Collisioa
loth April 1885. — The 'Arabia' (s.) Bombay Police
Court. Collision between the B. I. S. N.
Company's Steamer * Arabia ' and a native fishing
bagora. Three lives lost
ist May 1885 — Before Sir James Hannen. The
' Atmosphere ' v, the * Thyatira.' Collision,
ist May 1885. — Barque * River Leven' of Glasgow
V, the *Adolph Meyer* (s.) of Gothenburg.
Collision. Official Inquiry ordered.
8th May 1885. — The * T. M. Stevens ' v. the * Stormcock '
(s.) Before Sir James Hannen. Collision.
8th May 1885. — Before Mr. Justice Butt The 'Pride
of the Yare ' v, the * Speedwell ' (s.) Collisioa
8th May 1885. — The *Daunebrog' v. the *Zoe' (s.)
Before Sir James Hannea Collisioa Six lives
lost.
2 2d May 1885. — ^The 'United Kingdom' (steam-tug)
and the * Ellen Anne.' Collisioa
19th June 1885.— The *I. C. U.' v. the 'Chusan' (s.)
Before Mr. Justice Butt Collision. All hands of
*I. C U.'lost
26th June 1885.— The * Hans Gude * and the ' Merchant
Prince' (s.) Before the Wreck Commissioner.
Collision. Eight lives lost
26th June 1885. — ^The 'Egret' (s.) Before Mr.
Commissioner Kerr. Tug-boat ' William ' and her
cargo through collision with the steamer ' Egret'
3d July 1885.— The 'Capulet' (s.)— Voss v. General
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APPENDIX
Steam Navigation Company. Before Judge
Holroyd. Collision between the *Capulet' and
the barque * Thunia.'
3d July 1885. — ^The 'Lapwing' — Cowan and Sons v.
General Steam Navigation Company. Before Mr.
Justice Wills. Collision between the * Lapwing'
(s.), barque * Eliza,'
3d July 1885. — The * Collingrove * z/. the * Colstrup ' (s.)
Before Mr. Justice Butt Collision,
loth July 1885. — The *Havilar'z/. the 'Empress' (s.)
Before Sir James Hannen. Collision,
loth July 1885.— The 'Hawk' (s.-t.) Before Mr.
Commissioner Kerr. Collision between the brig
* Ann Peat ' v, the screw-tug * Hawk.'
24th July 1 885.— The * Trojan' (s.-t.) Collision between
iron barge * Fly ' v, the steam-tug * Trojan,' and the
barge * Mary ' in tow.
24th July 1885. — ^The *Hans Gude' v. the 'Merchant
Prince.' Before Sir James Hannen. Collision.
Eight lives lost.
24th July iSSs—Bail Fees. The *Colstrup' (s.) v,
* Colingrove,' etc.
24th December 1885. — ^The ketch 'Humility.' Before
Judge Owen. Ketch 'Humility' of Bideford ik
Newport and Alexandria Dock .Company. Collision.
14th August 1885.— The 'Kaluju' v. the 'Main' (s.)
Before Sir James Hannen. Collision, Russian
Finn barque ' Kaluju * North German Lloyd Screw
Steamship * Main.' One life lost
2ist August 1885. — Nantes Tribunal of Commerce.
The 'Abeille.' Collision. Owners of dredging
machine sued the owners of the ' Abeille ' tug, No.
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122 APPENDIX
1 8, and the ship *Meta,* which was in tow, for
damage to a barge.
28th August 1885. — ^The 'Glamorganshire' (s.) and the
' Clarissa B. Carver.*
1 8th September 1885. — * Cheong Po ' ». * Crusader * (s.),
and the * Crusader ' (s.) v. * Cheong Po.'
1 8th September 1885. — *Trevethick' (s.), 'Mauve.'
Official Inquiry ordered. Collisioa
2d October 1885. — ^The • Medina 'r. the 'Brunswick.'
Collision.
2d October 1885.— The; 'Mauve' and the 'Trevethick'
(s.) Before Wreck Commissioner. Collision.
Twelve lives lost
2d October 1885. — ^The 'Excelsior' (s.), Cardiff Town
Hall Collision.
6th November 1885. — Before Mr. Commissioner Kerr.
The barge ' Rebecca ' v. the tug ' Ada.' Collision.
13th November 1885. — The barges ' Alice,' ' Maud,' and
' Eliza Ballard,' v. the 'Vesper' (s.) Collision.
13th November 1885. — 'Maltese Cross' (s.) r. the
' Alma.' Collision.
4th December 1885.— The ' Kate 'z;. the 'Odiel' (s.)
Collision.
4th December 1885. — ^The 'Bertie' v. the 'Challenger'
(steam-tug). Collision.
I St January 1886. — Official Inquiry ordered. Collision
between the ' Hayle ' of Aberdeen and a schooner,
off the Bell Rock, North Sea.
ist January 1886. — Official Inquiry ordered. Collision.
1 5th January 1 886.— The ' Hayle ' (s.) Collision. Six
lives lost
15th January 1886. — The 'Kirkheaton' (s.^ the
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APPENDIX 123
*Catherina,' and the bai^e 'Charles,' and 'Eliza,'
Collision.
29th January 1886. — The lugger 'Jenne Lousia' and
the *Potaro' (s.) Collision. One life lost
5th February 1886. — The *Elene' v. 'General Roberts'
(s.) Collision.
1 2th February 1886.— The 'Hugh Cann* v. the
' Seaham Harbour' (s.) Collision.
1 2th February 1886. — The 'Storjohann' v. the 'Para'
(s.) Collision.
1 2th February 1886. — Owners of the 'Santa Clara' v.
London and North-Westem Railway Company.
Collision.
1 2th February 1886. — Judge BedwelL The 'Emily'
and the ' Ada ' v, the ' Stephen Gray ' and 'Watt ' (s.)
Collision.
1 2th February 1886. — The barge 'Eastcourt' and the
'Ella'(s.) Collision.
26th February 1886. — 'Duchess of Albany' %k the
' Oakfield ' (s.) Collision.
5th March 1886. — Official Inquiry ordered.
5th March 1886. — The 'Annie' (s.) and the barge
'William.' Collision.
5th March 1886.— The 'J. W. J.' v. the 'Seafisher' (s.)
Collision.
2d April 1886. — The 'Alexandra' (s.) and the barge
'John.' Collision.
2d April 1886. — The 'Empress' v. the 'Risea* (s.)
Collision.
9th April 1886.— The 'Jane' (s.) and the barge 'Flint
and Essex.' Collision.
9th April 1886. — House of Lords. The 'Duke of
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124 APPENDIX
Leinster' (s.) v. the Dublin and Glasgow Steam-
packet Company, Dublin Port and Dock Board.
Collision.
2 2d April 1886. — ^The 'Antelope* (s.) and the barge
* Alfred Little.' Collision.
2 2d April 1886. — The *Idlewild' (s.) and the sailing
barge * Director.* Collision.
2 2d April 1886. — House of Lords. The 'Glenogle*
(s.) V. the *Achille.' Collision.
14th May 1886. — The * Mildred* and the *El Dorado*
(s.) Collision. One life lost
14th May 1886. — The *Jane* v, * Ralph Cheyke.*
Collision.
28th May 1886. — The cutter *Ida* and the 'Martello*
(s.) Collision. One life lost.
28th May 1886. — The *Doncaster* (s.) v, the * Unity.'
Collision.
4th June 1886. — The * Perseverance * and the * Donegal *
(s.) Collision. One life lost
4th June 1886. — House of Lords. The * Kaluja * v. the
* Main * (s.) Collision. One life lost
1 8th June 1886. — The * Rotifer* (s.) and the barge 'Tees.*
25th June 1886. — The 'Crusader* v, the 'Strathnaim*
(s.) Collision.
2d July 1886. — The 'Antelope' (s.) and the barge 'Little.*
Collision.
9th July 1886. — The 'Osprey* v. the 'Pioneer* (s.)
Collision.
30th July 1886. — The 'Clan Macintosh* (s.) and the
' Fidelio.* Collision. Seven lives lost
loth August 1886. — The junk 'Lim Yeang Seang' v,
the ' Pahnam * (s.)
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APPENDIX 125
13th August 1886. — The *Ogmore' (s.) v, the 'Alice.*
Collision.
13th August 1886.— The * Friends 'z;. the 'Ethelbert*
(s.) Collision.
20th August 1886. — The * Daisy' v. the *Bee' (s.)
Collision. One life lost.
loth September 1886. — Official Inquiry ordered.
24th September 1886.— The *Elsy' (s.) v. the 'Jane.*
Running into moorings.
8th October 1886. — The sloop 'Marie' and the 'Sailor
Prince' (s.) Collision. One life lost.
29th October 1886. — 'Re Edward Lawson.' Fatal
running down case.
29th October 1886. — The barge 'Bob,' the 'Florence'
(s.), and the * Naiad ' (s.) Collision.
26th November 1886. — The 'Donegal' (s.) and the
' Eagle.' Collision.
26th November 1886.— The 'Port Victor' (s.) v. the
' Ane Jorgiane II.' Collision.
26th November 1886. — The 'Neptunus,' the ' Ansgar,*
and the 'Prince of Wales,' v. the 'India' (s.) Col-
lision.
3d December 1886. — 'Gemini' v, the 'Mayo' (s.)
loth December 1886. — The ' Sultan' z/. the 'Sardinian '
(s.) Collision.
7th January 1887. — 'Eliza A. Kenny.' Collision.
7th January 1887. — 'Japanese' (s.) v, 'Stimpson.' Col-
lision.
7th January 1887. — 'Glan Wem' (s.) Collision.
7th January 1887. — 'Duke of Connaught' and 'Drago-
man ' (s.) Collision. Fourteen lives lost.
7th January 1887. — 'William Cochrane.' Collision.
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126 APPENDIX
7th January 1887. — 'Ulster* (s.) Eva.
28th January 1885. — The steam barge * Speedwell' t^.
the barge * Fanny.* Collision.
28th January 1885. — Official Inquiry. * Duke of
Connaught ' v, the * Dragoman ' (s.)
4th February 1887. — ^The * Ocean Bridge' and the
* Beryl ' (s.) Official Inquiry. Four lives lost
4th February 1887. — * Alpha' v. * Glenmore ' (s.)
Collision.
4th February 1887. — The * Rivera' (s.) and the barge
* Duet.' Collision.
nth February 1887.— The *Nith' v, the 'ViUe de
Permambuco' (s.) Collision.
February 1887. — *St Rene' v, the 'Gaulois' (s.)
Collision.
1 8th February 1887. — The *Sybille' v, the 'Nova
Scotian ' (s.) Collision. One life lost
1 8th February 1887. — The 'Falcon' (s.) and the barge
' Frederick.' Collision.
4th March 1887. — The 'HopestQl' v, the 'Raven' (s.)
Collision.
4th March 1887. — 'Juan Cunningham' (s.) and the barge
* John.' Collision.
i.8th March 1887.— The * Annie ' and the * St Clements '
(s.) Collision. Eight lives lost
15th April 1887. — Barge 'Ivy' and the ' Charles Morand '
(s.) Collision,
loth June 1887.— The 'Alacrity' (s.) and the 'Leila.'
Collision. Three lives lost
loth June 1887. — The 'Betsy' and the 'Samuel Laing'
(s.) Collision. One life lost
ist July 1887.— The 'Tern' (s.) and the 'Hamburg.
Collision. Five lives lost
■ Digitized by VjOOQ IC
APPENDIX 127
ist July 1887. — The *Seaton' (s.) and the *San
Cayetano.' Collision. Three lives lost
ist July 1887. — The 'Carnarvon Castle' and the
* Trojan ' (s.)
15th July 1887. — Running down of the fishing-boat
* Darling.* Collision. Two lives lost.
I Sth July 1 887. — The ' Express ' and the 'Alf.' Jameson
V. * Rasmussen,* et ^ contra. Collision.
5th August 1 887. — The * Tenasserim* (s.), the 'Norcross,'
and the ' Antares.' Collision.
19th August 1887. — The *Trixie H.* and the * Plover'
(s.) Collision. Five lives lost.
26th August 1887. — The * Lydia * and the * Pavonia' (s.)
Collision, Two lives lost
a 6th August 1887. — The * Australina ' (s.) and the * Annie
Lisle.' Collision.
28th October 1887.— The * William' and the * Norma'
(s.) Collision. One life lost
nth November 1887. — Official Inquiry. Running
down of the fishing smack * Zoe ' by * Grenadier ' (s.)
nth November 1887. — The *Upupa' (s.) and the
* Planteur.' Collision. Eleven lives lost
2d December 1887. — Official Inquiry. The 'Star'
and the * Cyprus ' (s.) Two lives lost.
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
128 APPENDIX
BOARD OF TRADE INQUIRIES
Fatal collision. — "Said they were of opinion that,
under the circumstances, the sailing vessel was justified
in showing a flare light It appeared that when the
flare was seen from the steamer it was thought to be
shown from the stem of an overtaking vessel, but there
was some doubt, and under the circumstances the
master of the steamer was not justified in continuing his
course and bearing down upon the approaching vessel,
but that he should have made such an alteration in her
course which would have taken her clear. In their
opinion, the master of the steamer was to blame for the
collision in continuing his course, and not reducing
speed when the flare was seen, but it was difficult for
them to say that he had been guilty of a wrongful act
or default He might have been deceived by the flare
when first seen, and mistaking it as being shown by an
overtaking ship, but he was wrong in continuing her on
the course and speed. Although they considered that
the master was guilty of a serious error of judgment, still
they thought that it was not such a grave act and default
as would justify them in dealing with his certificate.
Every effort to save life seemed to have been made by
the steamer, and the sailing vessel was not to blame."
Fatal collision. — "It was the opinion of the Court
that the (s.) was also navigated with proper and
seamanlike care up to the time of the sinking of the
. The steamer had not kept a proper look-out on
board. The Court, however, believed that after the
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APPENDIX \2i^
collision everything was done by the officers and crew
of the steamer to save life. The collision and loss of
life caused thereby was caused by the default on the
part of , first officer of the steamer, who had
failed to keep a proper look-out and had not shown
proper seamanship. It was the intention of the Court
to suspend his certificate for twelve months from this
date."
Fatal collision. — "The Court were of opinion that
, master of the steamer, and , second mate,
did not exhibit sufficient humanity in trying to save lives,
and suspended the captain's certificate for four months,
and the second mate's for three months."
Fatal collision. — "The master was not in default,
but the mate, in the opinion of the Court, was in default,
in respect that prior to the collision he did not keep a
proper look-out, and left his post when only a man at the
wheel was on the bridge in charge of the vessel In the
circumstances the Court found it necessary to deal with
the mate's certificate, but having regard to his previous
good character, as proved in evidence, limited its sus-
pension to a period of six months. The nautical
assessors unanimously and unreservedly concurred in
the judgment of the Court"
Fatal collision. — " Mr. in giving judgment
said the Court was of opinion that the steamer did not
comply with the * Regulations for preventing Collisions
at Sea,' and that practically the sailing vessel did
comply therewith. It thought further that at the time
of the collision the sailing vessel was stationary, and that
she exhibited the light required by the Regulations. In
the opinion of the Court the steamer did not comply
K
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I30 APPENDIX
with Arts. 17 and 18 of the Regulations. The master of
the steamer was not justified in leaving the deck in
charge of the boatswain after the light of the sailing
vessel had been reported. The life of one of the crew
of the sailing vessel was lost in consequence of injuries
which he received in the collision, but it appeared that
all proper steps were taken by the master of the steamer
to avoid this loss of life. The steamer was not navi-
gated with proper and seamanlike caore, and the casualty
was caused by the wrongful act and default of
her master, but in view of the excellent testimonials that
he had received, the Court would not suspend his
certificate for a longer period than three months. The
Board of Trade would be recommended to grant him a
first mate's certificate during the period that his master's
certificate was suspended."
Fatal collision. — The Commissioner in giving judg-
ment said : " The sole blame for the collision rested with
the master of the steamer, and the question was whether,
in the opinion of the assessors, his certificate should be
dealt with as regards his conduct in porting when he
saw the red light, in not starboarding when the green
light appeared, and in not stopping and reversing. The
Board thought that they were merely errors of judgment,
for which they would not think of dealing with his
certificate. The Court, however, had more doubt as to
what it ought to do in regard to his conduct in going at
this rate of speed over a spot frequented by such a
number of vessels. They thought, however, that there
was some excuse for him in being led to believe that he
could see much farther than as a matter of fact he could.
On the whole they were disposed to take a lenient view
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
APPENDIX 131
of the case, and they would not, therefore, deal with his
certificate."
Fatal collision. — " The Commissioner in giving judg-
ment said the sailing vessel was navigated with proper
and seamanlike care, and kept her course, as it was her
duty to do. But with regard to the steamer the feeling
of the Court was that she was navigated in a very im-
proper and unseamanlike manner, and that it was due
to this, and this alone, that the collision was due. In
the opinion of the assessors, the collision was entirely
due to the wrongful act and default of the second
officer, and thought that it was a case in which it was
impossible for them not to deal with his certificate.
Looking at all the circumstances, they were of opinion
that his certificate should be suspended for nine
months."
Fatal collision. — " The Court found that the collision
was due to the second mate of the steamer having
neglected to observe the * Regulations for preventing
Collisions at Sea,* and they suspended that ofiicer's
certificate for twelve months."
Fatal collision. — ** The collision and loss of life caused
thereby was caused by the default of the first officer,
who had failed to keep a proper look-out, and had not
shown proper seamanship. It was the intention of the
Court to suspend his certificate for twelve months from
this date."
THE END
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