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TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK 
IN AN EIGHTEEN-TONNER 



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TO 

GIBRALTAR AND BACK 



IN 



AN EIGHTEEN-TONNER 



BY 

ONE OF THE CREW 



WITH CHART, ILLUSTRATIONa FROM SKETCHES BY BARLOW MOORE, 
AND PHOTOGRAPHS 



LONDON 

W. H. ALLEN & CO., 13 WATERLOO PLACE, S.W. 

)PuiiItsi|n» to tf)e Sniita ^Witt 

1888 



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HARVARD 

UNIVERSITY 

LIBRARY 



Printtd ^ R. & R. Clark. Edinburgh, 



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PREFACE 

A BRIEF account of this trip first appeared in 
Hunt's Yachting Magazine in 1886 and 1887. 
It has been brought out in this form at the 
express wish of my kind friend, Mr. Corry — ^the 
owner of the Chiripa — with whom I have made 
many a pleasant. cruise, but none more delightful 
than our cruise to Gibraltar and back. I take 
this opportunity of expressing my best thanks to 
Mr. Underbill for the chart which he has drawn 
for me, showing the actual course we took ; and to 
Mr. Barlow Moore for his spirited sketches, taken 
from my descriptions, which, with Mr. Underhill's 
chart and the Commodore's photographs, are 
the only features of the book worthy of notice. 

ONE OF THE CREW. 

Temple, 1888. 



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INTRODUCTION 

" Mind, you must all come and dine with me 
when you come back," were the last words we 
heard as, amid waving of hats and handkerchiefs, 
we steamed out of Charing Cross Station, in the 
night mail, on April the 6th, 1885. 

We, a friend whom I will call Mac, and self, 
were on our way to join a mutual friend, Mr. 
Corry — better known to us as the Commodore — 
at Dover, where he expected to arrive on the 
following morning in his yacht the Ckiripa, 

After a long illness, he had been ordered by 
his doctors to take a two months* holiday, and he 
had asked Mac, Mr. Underbill, and myself to join 
him in a cruise along the coasts of Spain and 
Portugal, as it was much too early in the season 
to think of going anywhere else. 

Though this involved crossing the dreaded 
Bay at a bad time of the year and in a small boat, 
we had all too much confidence in the Chiripds 

B 



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TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK 



capabilities — having sailed in her before — to 
hesitate about availing ourselves of such a splendid 
opportunity of getting away from England in the 
spring. The yacht was ordered to be ready by 
the second of April, and the original plan was for 
us all to start from Aldeburgh, where she was laid 
up ; but the usual delays took place, and when the 
Commodore eventually went down, Underbill and 
I were unable to accompany him, so Mac decided 
to join with me at Dover, and it was arranged 
that Underbill should meet us at Plymouth. 

It was the fact that we contemplated crossing 
the Bay direct, instead of coasting, which had 
brought our friends down to the station to take, 
as they thought, a fond and last farewell. Fool- 
hardy had been the mildest term applied to us 
by our friends and acquaintances when the cruise 
was decided upon, and the way in which our 
tradesmen sent in their bills when they got wind 
of it, made us most anxious to get well away on 
the waves which never cease from troubling, but 
where the debtor is at rest. 

It was bitterly cold when we arrived at Dover, 
and when we found that there was a heavy sea 
running and the wind blowing fresh, we con- 
gratulated ourselves on being well out of it, and 
retired to rest feeling sure that we need not 
trouble the " boots " to call us extra early the 



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IN AN EIGHTEEN-TONNER 



next morning. The prospect we had from the 
Lord Warden when we came down to breakfast 
on the following day was certainly anything but in- 
viting. The sky was dull and threatening ; there 
was a nasty soaking drizzle, and the sea seemed 
to have got up still more in the night, and was 
lashing itself into fury against the Admiralty 
Pier, sending clouds of spray over it and over 
the sea wall opposite the hotel, sprinkling the 
windows of the coffee-room with salt water. 
With the exception of one tiny boat far out at 
sea, which at the time I took for a fishing smack, 
not a sail could be seen. We heard that the 
volunteers were having a field day somewhere in 
the neighbourhood, but the weather was not 
sufficiently tempting to induce us to venture out, 
so having laid in a store of literature, we retired 
to the smoking-room for the rest of the morning, 
as we had given up all hope of seeing the Chiripa 
till late in the afternoon. We had, however, only 
just finished lunch, when we spied her coming into 
the harbour, with topmast struck, reefed bowsprit, 
small jib, three reefs down in the mainsail, and 
dinghy on deck, which gave us a very good idea 
of the dusting she had had. It turned out that 
the boat had arrived off Dover early in the morn- 
ing, but as the Commodore could not get her into 
the basin in consequence of the tide, he stood 



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TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK 



right out again, as he found there was less sea 
outside the pier than in the Wick. We were 
soon on board, and found the cabin in a nice state 
of confusion. A few pieces of the swinging lamp 
still remained to show where it had been, while 
boots, newspapers, and matchboxes were floating 
about in the water, which had found its way down 
the companion and fo'castle hatch, through the 
skylights, and covered the cabin floor. 

Nothing put out by these little discomforts, 
the Commodore was making a big lunch. Seated 
alongside of him was a hungry-looking fox-terrier 
pup— a parting gift from the worthy proprietor 
of the East Suffolk Hotel, Aldeburgh — who was 
taking the deepest interest in the performance; 
while a friend who had agreed to take Underbill's 
place as far as Plymouth was hurriedly packing 
up. "What ! not hungry after your sail ?" I said. 
" No, I'm off"," was the reply. " But you are surely 
not going to leave now ?" " Oh yes, I am, my 
boy ! I tell you what it is : I don't mind cold by 
itself, I don't mind rain by itself, I don't mind wet 
by itself, and I don't so much mind being sick, 
but when you get all these things together, it's not 
good enough. I tell you what it is, it's not the 
weather for yachting." He was as good as his 
word, and went up to town by the very next train, 
after taking a most touching farewell. 



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IN AN EIGHTEEN'TONNER 



The Chiripa is a cutter of i8 tons, classed at 
Lloyd's A I, fifteen years. Her dimensions are : — 
Length over all, 5 2 ft 6 in. ; length on water-line, 
44 ft. 3 in. ; beam, 10 ft 5 in.; depth, 7 ft 6 in.; 
greatest freeboard, 4 ft. ; least freeboard, 2 ft 3 in. 
Considering that the area of her lower sail is only 
1430 feet, she is exceptionally heavily sparred, 
her mast being 11^ in., and her boom 7^ in. in 
diameter. She was built by Messrs. Ogilvie and 
Co., 1884, from her owner's designs, and went 
straight off the slips to Christiansand, the work- 
men who were still engaged on her going ashore 
at the mouth of the river in a boat which they 
had towing behind. This, with the exception of 
a trip down the Channel on her return from 
Norway, was practically her second cruise. She 
makes up five berths without counting the fore- 
castle, i£. owner's cabin, one ; two in the main 
cabin, and two in the ladies*. The owner's cabin 
was not used on this cruise, as it was piled up 
with stores, spare sails, etc. She is very dry, 
wonderfully handy, and about as good a little 
cruiser as can be found. 

Her best run in the 24 hours on her outward 
journey was 154 miles, and homeward bound 171. 
It is only fair to say that the spinnaker was left 
behind, and these runs were done under jib, fore- 
sail, and mainsail alone. The crew consisted of 



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TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK 



the owner — alias the Commodore — who holds a 
master's certificate, Orvis, who acts as master 
when the Commodore is not on board, Jack, and 
a cabin boy, Arthur. 

Next morning the clocks on shore were just 
striking 4 as we passed through the gates. There 
was very little wind outside, but it breezed up 
during the day, and we had fresh winds, shifty 
from N.N.E., down to Plymouth. Two reefs 
down in the mainsail the whole way. As the 
Commodore had made up his mind that his 
twelve-foot wooden dinghy, which by the way had 
already been damaged on the journey from Alde- 
burgh, was not only inconvenient on deck, but 
also very dangerous in rough weather, he decided 
to put into Southampton and buy a Berthon 
collapsible boat ; accordingly we ran into South- 
ampton about 1 1.30 A.M., on Wednesday morning, 
and had left our own boat and got the new Berthon 
on board by 9 in the evening. 

We got under-way next morning at 6 o'clock, 
and brought up at Plymouth, inside the Cattwater, 
at I P.M. on Friday. Anything so cold as the 
weather we had after leaving Dover none of us 
had ever experienced. Orvis went so far as to say 
that he had never felt it so cold in the North Sea. 
I only know that although I was wearing a double 
allowance of underclothing, two suits of clothes 



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IN AN EIGHTEEN'TONNER 



and a thick muffler, I could not manage to keep 
warm. 

After sending a telegram to Underbill, we spent 
the rest of the day over the fire in the smoking- 
room at the hotel, trying to thaw our frozen 
limbs. Underbill came on board at 6 o'clock 
on Saturday morning, and made such a terrific 
noise that, seeing no chance of being allowed 
to go to sleep again, we reluctantly turned out, 
and while Mac was still grumbling, he was formally 
introduced to the disturber of our repose, whom he 
had not met before. The best part of the day 
was spent in getting the topmast on deck, taking 
down the cross-trees, and making all snug for 
crossing the Bay. In the evening the Commodore 
divided us into two watches ; himself, Underbill, 
and Jack taking the starboard watch, while Mac, 
Orvis, and I were in the port watch. As we had 
plenty of stores of all kinds on board, including a 
medicine chest, which, I am happy to say, was 
only once called into use, we were under no 
restrictions except as regarded water. 

The Chiripds tanks only holding 250 gallons, 
we were forbidden to use fresh water for drinking 
or washing purposes. This order, more especially 
as regarded the first part, met with everybody's 
most cordial approval and was strictly obeyed. 
The weather being so cold, the fresh meat we took 



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TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK 



on board at Plymouth lasted till we got to Vigo, 
and it was only on the passage from Tangiers to 
Lisbon that we were obliged to have recourse to 
our tinned things ; the salt beef was always 
preferred. 



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CHAPTER I 

Sunday, i2TH April. — It was a decided treat to 
come on deck and find the sun had emerged from 
his retreat and was shining brightly, this being the 
first glimpse we had had of him since leaving Dover. 
Unfortunately there was very little wind, scarcely 
sufficient to shake out the burgee, so the Com- 
modore amused himself and tortured us by taking a 
more or less — according to the light in which the 
unfortunate sufferers look at it — successful photo- 
graph of the Corinthian crew. 

Shortly after 8 the anchor was weighed and 
catted, sail got on her, and we drifted gently out 
of the Cattwater, past the Hoe, where as yet very 
few people were to be seen, past the breakwater, 
and we were off. 

There was no more wind outside and we did 
not pass Rame Head till lo A.M. Our course 
was then laid for the Lizard, from which point we 
meant to take our departure. 

About noon the log was hauled, and we found 

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lo TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK 

we had only run 1 5 miles. The log was set again, 
heaved over the counter, and the men went below 
to their dinners. Presently the Commodore, who 
was steering, called out to somebody to ease the 
foresheet I was very comfortable and did not 
offer to move, so Mac got up and was strolling 
forward in his usual leisurely manner, when 
Underbill raced by him, and by the time Mac 
had reached the shrouds the order had been 
carried out Mac's face, when he saw, to his 
intense astonishment, that his services were not 
required, and that the new-comer knew as much 
as he did, was a study, and when he had recovered 
from his surprise and said to Underbill in a deeply 

injured tone of voice, " How the did you 

know which was the foresheet?" we simply 
screamed with laughter. 

The wind remained light all day, and it was 
not till 2 on Monday morning that we made 
the Lizard, and formally took our departure, laying 
our course S.W.^S. 

The wind, south-east, freshening up, we bowled 
along merrily. " On, on the vessel flies, the land 
is gone, and winds are rude in Biscay's sleepless 
Bay." 

Next day at noon the Commodore was below 
working out the reckoning, and Mac was doing 
his spell at the tiller, when the Commodore called 



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IN AN EIGHTEEN' TONNE R 1 1 

up the companion, " How's the wind, Mac ?" 
•* D cold," was the prompt but useless reply. 

On Wednesday the wind, which had shifted 
from W.N.W. to W.b.S., freshened considerably 
and a very nasty sea got up. At 7 P.M. we 
shifted jibs and took in a couple of reefs. Directly 
this job was over I went below, as it was not my 
watch, and it was decidedly damp and unpleasant 
on deck. 

I turned in all standing, having only removed 
my oileys, but what with the various noises, as 
every now and again a sea struck the little vessel 
with a force which seemed to stop her and make 
her tremble all over, the crash of a wave as it 
came on board causing you to think for a moment 
that the decks were stove in, till you heard the 
swish of the water as it tore aft, and the unearthly 
groaning and moaning of the bulkheads and 
ceiling, sleep was impossible. At 1 1 Mac and 
I were called up to help in taking in the third 
reef, and when we came on deck we found the 
wind had shifted again to S.W.b.W. It was now 
blowing very hard, and as every now and then 
she would give a fearful lurch, we found it almost 
impossible to keep our legs without holding on. 
It was no easy matter taking in this third reef, as 
the boat was rolling about in a most uncanny 
way. When we had hold of the tackle we had 



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to wait till she was fairly steady and then all pull 
together; then the roll when the heavy boom 
would take charge of us, and swinging us over 
skylights and companion, deposit us in the lee 
scuppers, still holding on to the tackle like grim 
death. This amusement was repeated so often, 
that by the time we had got the reef made fast 
I don't think any one of us had escaped without 
a varied assortment of bumps and bruises. 

In one of the worst of these lurches Mac, who 
had gone forward with Underbill to take a pull 
on the peak halliards, suddenly let go his hold, 
slipped up, and was literally brought up standing 
by the bulwarks, but not content with that, he 
was in the act of taking a somersault backwards 
over the ridge rope — which the Commodore had 
luckily had rigged before the start — when Under- 
bill seized him by his oileys, and lugged him out 
of danger. After this the Commodore ordered 
him below, an order which he obeyed with delight- 
ful alacrity. 

By this time we had got the boat pretty snug, 
so we invaded the cabin, as we all felt we stood 
in need of a dose of rum, for to add to our dis- 
comforts it was a horribly cold night We found 
Mac had made his bed on the cabin floor — as he 
could not have stopped in his bunk — and was 
lying down smoking contentedly. 



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I 



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IN AN EIGHTEEN-TONNER 13 

When I returned on deck, as I got to the top 
of the companion, I turned round as usual and 
looked forward. Judge of my horror when I saw 
a slate-coloured wall of water fringed with white 
coming straight towards us. To me it seemed 
higher than our mast, and as it drew nearer I 
held my breath and instinctively grasped the top 
of the companion with both hands and held on 
with all my might. Nearer and nearer, and then 
we were climbing it merrily. 

Once on top, the Ckiripa gave herself a little 
shake and pluckily dived down the other side. 
After that I didn't care, as, if that wave couldn't 
sink her, I felt that nothing — short of a steamer 
—could. The wind kept increasing, and at 2 
A.M. it was screaming through the rigging as if in 
mortified rage that it could do us no harm. 

One moment we would be in the trough of the 
waves — with a wall of black water all round us — 
and the next moment we would be looking down 
on them fighting and foaming in all directions as 
far as the eye could see. 

At 2.30 A.M. it was blowing a whole gale. 
The wind had shifted round to the north, so we 
hove to with foresail stowed, and I turned in. 
Next morning the storm abated, though there was 
still a heavy sea running. The wind, however, 
had come round to north-east, so we scudded. 



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14 TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK 

All Thursday we had a very heavy sea, and 
were obliged to keep three reefs down. The 
cabin lamp, which had been replaced at Dover, 
was again smashed, and it was impossible to 
keep anything on the swinging table. 

Cape Finisterre was sighted at 5.30 on Friday 
morning, and the worst part of our journey 
was over: we had crossed the Bay. As it got 
later the wind dropped, the sky cleared, and 
the sun came out and helped to dry us after 
our wet passage. It was a lovely day, and the 
waves in the bright sunlight seemed vastly dif- 
ferent to what they were during the storm on 
Wednesday and Thursday. Now they were a 
beautiful transparent green crowned with masses 
of snow-white foam, and they appeared to be 
frolicking about in wanton enjoyment. We were 
thoroughly enjoying ourselves, smoking and bask- 
ing in the sun, when we made out a large steam 
yacht coming towards us, though from the course 
she was steering it was clear she would not come 
close ; presently, much to our amazement, she 
altered her course and bore straight down for 
us. She turned out to be an English yacht, 
but we did not recognise her burgee ; we dipped 
flags, and hoped they would report us at home. 
Going in by the North Channel, we opened Vigo 
Bay at 3.45, and running free, with 



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" A wet sheet and a flowing sail, 
A wind that follows fast," 

we went skimming up the Bay. Just then we 
noticed that Mac — whose usual position on deck, 
when not on duty, was a reclining one — was 
standing forward with the glasses riveted on 
some object ahead. Thinking it might be a buoy, 
the Commodore, who was steering, cried out, 
"What is it, Mac?"— "Oh! all right, don't 
bother!" — "What the dickens are you staring 
at ? " This time with an exclamation of fervent 
joy the glasses were shut up, and Mac came aft. 
" IVe found it," he proudly said. — "Found what?" 
— ^" Why, the hotel of course. There it is, that 
large white building on the right, * Hotel Con- 
tinental.' I say. Commodore," he continued, " I 
suppose we shall dine on shore to-night." — " Cer- 
tainly," was the reply, " if we get pratique." That 
was enough for Mac ; he immediately dived below 
to make himself beautiful, and we did not see 
him again till the pratique boat came alongside. 
We excited considerable interest as we passed 
close to what appeared to be the commencement 
of an iron jetty, and the workmen gladly sus- 
pended operations to look at the tiny boat flying 
an English flag. Sailing clear of all the vessels 
and dipping to the solitary Spanish man-of-war, 
we let go the anchor in seven fathoms of water 



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1 6 TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK 

at 5.30. The health boat was soon alongside, 
but much to our disgust refused us pratique, as 
unfortunately we had come away without a bill 
of health. 

Mac's disappointment — as he had been look- 
ing forward to having a good dinner at last — 
ought to have affected us to tears, but I am sorry 
to say it only provoked our laughter. The boat 
went away, the officer kindly promising to see 
what he could do for us, and as there was no 
chance of getting on shore that evening, we had 
to sit down and make the best of it, Mac in his 
shore-going clothes looking rather out of place. 
However, we had a merry time of it, and many 
a bottle of beer was cracked in honour of our — so 
far — successful trip. 

About 9 the boat came back, and we were 
delighted to see the officers come on board, as 
we then knew it was all right All the Com- 
modore had to do was to sign a declaration that 
everybody on board was in good health, and had 
been so when we left England. 

The officers inquired if we had not had rather 
a bad crossing, and seemed considerably surprised 
at our ever having attempted the passage. After 
they had gone we came on deck, had a final pipe, 
and turned in early, delighted with the thought 
that instead of a wretched nap of four hours, we 



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IN AN EIGHTEEN' TONNER 1 7 

could indulge in the luxury of a good square 
sleep of at least twelve. When we came on 
deck next morning we found the bumboat man 
had already been alongside, and had left a basket 
containing oranges, apples, and last, though not 
least, some fresh fish, eggs and milk, luxuries 
which one thoroughly appreciates when one has 
been deprived of them for a few days. How 
'many oranges we each of us consumed before 
breakfast I should be ashamed now to confess, 
but under the circumstances gluttony was ex- 
cusable. 

We seemed to have jumped from winter into 
summer. " The day was fair and sunny : sea 
and sky drank its inspiring radiance," and not a 
ripple disturbed the water ; the poor weather- 
beaten burgee floated listlessly at the masthead, 
and the ensign hung in heavy folds over the 
counter. It was a morning to make you throw 
off your clothes and bask luxuriously in the 
sun, while you feasted your eyes on Jhe lovely 
prospect. The houses with their eastern-looking 
latticed balconies rising one above 'the other on 
terraces facing the water, and the blue hills on 
the other side of this lovely bay standing out 
sharp and clear in the bright sun, made a picture 
which only an artist could portray. While we 
were thus enjoying ourselves, some one asked, 

C 



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«* What more could you want ? " " Breakfast ! " 
was the Commodore's unsentimental reply. At 
that moment it was announced, and forgetting 
all about the sunshine and scenery, we promptly 
tumbled below. 



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CHAPTER II 

Directly after breakfast we went ashore, and, 
under the guidance of our bumboat man, found 
the telegraph-office and sent messages off to our 
friends. 

Vigo is so well known that I need say nothing 
further about it, except that we were charmed 
with its quaint, narrow streets, which opened 
suddenly upon some funny little squares, from 
some of which queer, narrow tunnelled passages 
led down to the water, through which from time 
to time you got a charming view of the Bay. 

We were especially fortunate, as it was ap- 
parently a market-day, and the bright coloured 
head-dresses of the women and the men's brilliant 
costumes lent colouring to what was already a 
picturesque scene. 

We called on the English Consul, who turned 
out to be a Spaniard. He had already heard 
of our little difficulty about the bill of health. 
He was most obliging, and sent one of his 



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subordinates with us to the two clubs which 
Vigo boasts, in order that we ^ nnight be properly- 
introduced as honorary members. No difficulties 
were made, and five minutes after our introduc- 
tion we were busily engaged in studying up the 
English papers. 

These clubs, or " Tertullias," as they are called, 
are next door to one another in the Calle Imperial. 
They are quite different to anything we have in 
England, and seemed to be very little used 
except for the purpose of reading the papers. 
There are no dining-rooms, and no arrangements 
for feeding the members, but, on the other hand, 
they each rejoiced in the possession of a large 
ball-room, in which the members have a ball 
once a month, and in summer once a week. 

Imagine the feelings of the old members of 
some of our London clubs, say the Athenaeum, 
Reform, or Carlton, if it were proposed to devote 
one or more of the club-rooms to such an unholy 
purpose as dancing. I think that the bare idea 
of such a thing would be sufficient to give some 
of the selfish old fogies — the men who sit on 
four papers, with a fifth in their hands, and then 
go to sleep ; the men who insist on keeping the 
temperature of the smoking-room up to 85 
degrees, and then grunt at you if you object ; 
and those who, in the height of summer, are always 



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m AN EIGHTEEN'TONNER 



looking out for draughts, which exist only in 
their own imagination — an apoplectic fit We 
dined at the table-d'hSte at the hotel, which Mac 
discovered, the " Hotel Continental " — so far as I 
saw, the only one in town fit to go to — and had 
an excellent dinner for the very moderate charge 
of 1 3s. 4d. for four persons, wine, very drinkable, 
cheese and fruit included. 

After dinner Mac and I decided to go up to 
the club and finish the papers, but the Commodore 
and Underbill preferred strolling about the town, 
so we agreed to meet at the stone pier at 10. 
When we left the club it was pitch dark, and how- 
ever else they may spend their money, the town 
councillors of Vigo do not waste too much on gas. 

We found our way down to the pier and 
hailed the boat We were answered immediately, 
as the boat was right below with the other two in 
it, but it was so dark we could not make it out 
Mac went down the wooden steps first, but would 
not listen to my advice to go down with his face 
to the steps and hold on. He had not gone down 
twenty steps, if there are so many, before I heard 
Jack cry out, ** Take care, sir, there's a seven-foot 
drop." The next moment I saw Mac waltz into 
space, and heard a heavy thud as he fell in the 
boat It may easily be imagined that after that 
I went down those steps with considerable caution, 



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TO GIBRALTAR A^TD BACK 



and dropped safely into the dinghy. I was glad 
to find him apparently all right, although of course 
considerably shaken. It appeared that he had 
fallen on his side on the gunwale of the boat. 
How it did not upset is a marvel to me ; I used 
to be prejudiced against these boats, but I must 
say I have completely changed my mind, after 
seeing what our little twelve-foot Berthon dinghy 
went through. 

The next day, Sunday, 20th April, the Com- 
modore took his camera ashore and took two 
photographs, one of the promenade and one of 
the Bay, under the admiring gaze of the juvenile 
and ragged population of Vigo. Coming down 
from the terrace, Mac complained of a pain in his 
side, and great difficulty in breathing, so we 
thought it advisable to get him to the hotel and 
send for a doctor. The manager or owner of the 
hotel — I don't know which — was very kind, and 
sent out for one at once, who, besides his other 
qualifications, could speak French, as none of us 
could manage a word of Spanish. We had not 
long to wait before the doctor arrived, and having 
examined Mac, he informed us that he had broken 
a rib, and must go to bed at once, and that it was 
impossible for him to go on board at present ; he 
forbade him to have any lunch, to Mac*s intense 
disgust, and said he would return and put some 



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IN AN EIGHTEEN- TONNER 23 

leeches on him in a couple of hours. Why the 
delay of two hours we could not understand, 
except on the supposition that he meant to have 
his own deje&ner, cafe, cognac, and smoke first 
Whether he lunched " not wisely, but too well," I 
don't know, but he certainly sent a substitute to 
put on the leeches. This gentleman brought two 
or three young fellows with him, and while putting 
on the leeches favoured them with what appeared 
to be a clinical lecture. We, perhaps, in our 
ignorance, thought it very funny treatment for a 
broken rib, and Underbill, who knows something 
about surgery, said it was adjectived nonsense, 
but, unfortunately, we could not help ourselves. 
At 5 the doctor found himself able to attend, 
and after binding Mac up, said we might take 
him on board that night. Leaving Mac to enjoy 
a little thin soup — all the doctors would allow him 
— we went in to the table-d'/tdte, but before doing 
so, as there was an ugly sea in the Bay, we 
thought it wise to send a message on board by 
Manuelo, the bumboat man, telling Orvis to send 
some big coats and oileys ashore for Mac, and 
that we would not want the dinghy, but would go 
on board in Manuelo's boat. 

After dinner we paid a visit to the theatre — 
" Teatro Circo Tamberlik," as it is called on the 
programme — and secured a box large enough to 



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24 TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK 

hold four people, for the sum of twenty-four reales, 
or about five shillings in English money. It is a 
fair- sized house, but was very empty, and the 
manager's finances evidently did not allow of a 
heavy expenditure in dresses, scenery, etc. The 
hero of the piece and the star of the company had 
somewhat peculiar ideas as to a gentleman's dress, 
his idea being white duck trowsers, much too 
short for him, a maroon waistcoat, scarlet tie, 
frock coat, of the very shiniest broadcloth, and to 
crown all a billycock hat. We left shortly before 
lo, and picking up Mac at the hotel, helped 
him down to the stone pier, and got him on board 
without any accident. It was lucky we had not 
the Berthon, as there was a heavy sea running, 
and Manuelo's boat was lifted up and down 
alongside the pier by every wave in a way which 
caused us considerable trouble in getting him, 
helpless as he was, safely on board. Vigo Bay 
was looking its very loveliest as we got under- 
way about lO next morning, bound for Lisbon. 
There was scarcely any wind, so we had plenty of 
time to enjoy its varied charms, as one by one 
they were developed before us, and it was not till 
some time after lunch that we got clear of Bayona 
Island. Our bumboatman's bill — presented at the 
last moment — had rather astonished the Commo- 
dore, and caused our delay. 



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CHAPTER III 

For the next two days the wind remained light 
and variable, and we had every opportunity of 
studying the coast while we basked in the sun, 
as the weather — luckily for us — still continued 
beautifully fine. On the Tuesday, 2ist April, 
Underbill and the Commodore — as they both hit 
it — succeeded in shooting a fine gannet ; when 
we got him on board we found we had made a 
double prize, as he had been shot in the act of 
swallowing a fish, the tail of which was still 
protruding from his beak. It was such a hand- 
some bird that the Commodore decided to keep 
him, and have him cleaned and prepared for 
stuffing when he got to Lisbon : this he eventu- 
ally had done, but it was done so badly that we 
were obliged to throw it overboard some three 
weeks afterwards. 

At 12 noon we made out the lighthouse, 
Mondego Point, bearing south, three and a half 
miles off. At 4 in the afternoon, wind W.^S., 



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26 TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK 

Mondego Point was bearing north-east, ten miles. 
The course was then altered to S.W.b.W., as the 
tide was fast setting us on shore. During the 
afternoon we got a little breeze and passed the 
dangerous Berlins, taking the inside passage about 
I A.M. on Thursday morning. Later on the wind 
dropped, and at 12 we were lolloping about 
on the top of a big swell, making no way, abreast 
of Cape Roca, only four miles off. 

While we were rolling about in this aggravating 
manner several steamers passed us, and among 
others an English passenger boat bound home. 
We exchanged compliments, but when she was 
some distance astern we noticed that she was 
signalling us by means of the heliograph ; un- 
fortunately we had no code and could not read 
the signals. Passed Rago Point about i, and 
when off the signal station we were rather 
astonished to find that they were signalling for 
our number. The Commodore immediately sent 
up the four flags which represented her letters, 
J L Q P., and official number, 86624, which told 
them that our boat was the Chiripa, of Ipswich. 
Going in by the north channel — the most danger- 
ous, unless you have a fair wind — we passed Fort 
St. Joseph, keeping well clear of the nasty shelf 
of rock which juts out for some yards from it, and 
on which many a good ship has been wrecked, 



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IN AN EIGHTEEN' TONNE R 27 

and opened the Tagus about 4. With the ex- 
ception of poor Mac, who had not left his bunk 
since leaving Vigo, we were all on deck eager to 
get the first glimpse of the river, whose wondrous 
beauties we had so often heard extolled — 

"And Tagus dashing onward to the deep, 
His fabled golden tribute bent to pay." . . . 
" Oh, Christ ! it is a goodly sight to see 
What heaven hath done for this delicious land." 

Beyond that its fertile shores are refreshing, 
after Mondego*s bare and rocky coast, there is 
nothing to rave about, and little to praise. We 
all agreed that the Tagus was a big sell, and 
could not for one moment compare with Vigo 
Bay. 

Off Belem Castle, where the river is only about 
a mile wide, though it broadens out to five 
opposite Lisbon, we were kept messing about for 
half an hour waiting for the quarantine boat, and 
therefore had plenty of time to admire this 
diminutive castle's architectural beauties. It is 
a graceful building with massive walls, handsome 
terrace, and some funny hanging watch-towers. 
The battlements too are covered with carving. 
Though built in the fifteenth century it was still 
strong enough to withstand the famous earthquake 
of 17SS, which almost razed Lisbon to the ground. 
To most people, however, it is chiefly interesting. 



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28 TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK 

as recalling to them that it was on that spot that 
Vasco de Gama set foot on returning from the 
discovery of a new empire. 

At last the boat came off to us, and we had 
rather a shave of being put in quarantine, as at 
first the official insisted upon Mac being brought 
on deck ; this, however, we declined to do, and at 
last the officer gave in. Their boat had scarcely 
left us before the agent's boat was alongside. He 
had received a telegram from the signal station 
that we were coming in, and with an eye to 
business had sent his boat to meet us. His clerk 
piloted us up to our anchorage off the Lisbon 
Yacht Club house, where we brought up in five 
fathoms at 7. 

As the Commodore thought it was not worth 
while to go ashore that evening, the agent was 
sent off with telegrams for friends, and instructions 
to bring off an English-speaking doctor and any 
other luxuries he could think of early next morn- 
ing. Then we dined, and dined well, and over 
our final pipe on deck we came to the conclusion 
that Lisbon and the Tagus looked better by night 
than day. 

When I woke up next morning I found the 
boat jumping about in such a very lively fashion 
that I rolled out of my bunk and ran up the 
companion to see what was up, found it was 



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IN AN EIGHTEEN- TONNER 29 

blowing hard, with a nasty choppy sea, and the 
fishing-boats anchored ahead of us were having a 
merry time of it. It was much too cold to 
remain on deck with nothing on but pyjamas, so 
I tumbled below and commenced an elaborate 
toilette for the benefit of the poor Portuguese. 
The doctor, a jolly-looking old sportsman, came 
on board shortly afterwards, and after punching 
Mac about, told him — much to his delight — that 
he was all right, but it was quite unnecessary for 
him to tell Mac — as he did — to go ashore and 
enjoy himself, as Mac always made a point of 
doing that. As it would have been impossible 
for the Berthon to have lived in that sea with five 
people in her, the Commodore told the shore-boat 
to come back for us after landing the doctor. 

We were anchored about one mile and a half 
from the landing stage, and so had to wait some 
little time for the boat Once on shore, our first 
move was to indulge ourselves in our greatest 
luxuries — English beer, a shampoo, and a bath, 
which we found cheap and good at the Hotel 
Centrale, close to the river. About 1 2 • we 
returned to the boat, as the Commodore wished 
to wind his chronometers, and by the time we 
got on board we were wet through from the spray 
which washed right over us. It was, however, 
very lucky that we did return, as we found Orvis 



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30 TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK 

in an awful state of excitement. The boat had 
dragged her anchor and was on a shoal with only 
eighteen inches of water under her, a weather- 
going tide and blowing a gale of wind from 
W.S.W, We immediately set to work, hove in 
anchor, which fortunately had got a good hold, 
and with the assistance of foresail and peak of 
mainsail hoisted a little, managed to claw off. 
Before we were able to take up a fresh anchorage, 
it came on to pour ; oileys were no protection ; it 
ran down your neck in streams, trickled into your 
boots and cut your face and hands like whip-cord. 
It continued to rain on and off for the rest of the 
day, but we could not complain, as that was the 
first wet day we had had since crossing the Bay. 
Dined at the " Hotel Centrale," and had a very 
good dinner at a reasonable price. After dinner 
we were delighted to find that our old friend Paulus 
was playing at the Gymnase. The place was full, 
but we succeeded in getting a box. Paulus was 
in splendid form, but we could not help thinking 
that he was laying it on rather thick when he 
sang a song, the refrain of which was Les Portugais 
sont toiijoiirs gais^ as a more melancholy set of 
mutes it would be hard to find. The king was 
there with a large suite, and we saw them drive 
away afterwards in English-built carriages, each 
drawn by four mules ! 



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IN AN EIGHTEEN' TONNER 31 

It was a bright morning on 25 th, Saturday, 
but the wind was still blowing hard, and a very 
heavy sea. We went on shore early and strolled 
about the town. Some fine Plazas and that was 
all. Wandering about the hill near St George's, 
we were rather surprised to find some very small 
and poor houses boasting staircases with a dado 
about three feet high ; it consisted of blue tiles, 
and the design appeared to be cupids playing 
with flowers. Shortly afterwards, in a church in 
the immediate neighbourhood, we came across a 
dado of a similar character, but representing 
religious subjects. On our way back to the hotel 
we passed a barrack-looking building with crowds 
of men in all sorts of costumes looking out of the 
barred windows. They shouted to us, no doubt 
uncomplimentary remarks, but as we did not 
understand what they said it did not affect our 
equanimity. On inquiring we found out it was a 
prison. Prison regulations are evidently very lax 
in Portugal. Soon after dinner we went down to 
the landing stage, but as our agent's boat was not 
there we had to look out for another one. Any 
amount of gentlemen were bidding for our custom, 
but the Commodore decided in favour of the 
most vociferous, and certainly the most amusing 
applicant. " Come along with me, sar — I know 
your yat — my name John Beef." — "John Beef?" 



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32 TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK 

said the Commodore, "you mean John Bull." — 
" All right, sar, you come with me ; my name 
John Beef, John Bull, what you like ; you come 
with me." 

Next morning when I came on deck it was 
blowing a gale, and there was a regular sea 
running. We were most anxious to get ashore, 
as a bull-fight had been advertised to take place 
that afternoon ; but in spite of all our signals, 
although we were only two cables' length off the 
nearest shore, no boat would come off to us. At 
4 the Commodore decided in making an attempt 
to land in the Berthon. Only two persons were 
allowed to go at a time, the Commodore and 
Underbill going first If they succeeded in the 
attempt, Mac and I were to follow with the 
camera. They did not attempt to row to our 
usual landing-place, but simply went for the 
nearest point of the stone embankment, in the 
hope that they might be able to climb it. It was 
very exciting for us to watch the little dinghy 
bobbing up and down in the heavy sea, and at 
times we thought she must founder. 

At last they reached the embankment. Jack 
turned the Berthon smartly on top of a wave and 
backed her in, but before the Commodore could 
catch hold Jack had to pull out again to prevent 
the boat being smashed against the wall. Over 



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Q 

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§ 
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IN AN EIGHTEEN' TONNE R 33 

and over again this happened, till at last the 
Commodore caught hold, and some good-natured 
souls on shore helping him, was soon on top, and 
Underhill quickly followed. When, in our turn, 
we got near the shore we found — what we could 
not see from the yacht — that there was an iron 
hoop let into the wall rather more than half-way 
up. Mac went first and then I handed up the 
camera. 

The first try I made for the hoop I failed, and 
when I did catch hold, and was hauling myself 
up, a wave broke against the wall and wet me 
through. However, we had succeeded in effecting 
a landing, but we were not through all our 
troubles, as two Custom -House officers bore 
down on us and insisted on examining the camera. 
They stretched it out, looked through it, and at 
last, though not without some misgivings, passed 
it Hailing the first cab, we told the driver to 
take us to the bull -ring. Cabby said nothing, 
but bustling up his old gee, rattled away, and 
after a drive of about twenty minutes pulled up 
with a grand flourish in front of the building. 
He then descended from his seat and informed us 
that there would be no bull- fight that day, as it 
had been put off in consequence of somebody's 
death. We only smiled and looked pleasant, but 
for all that, like the old lady's parrot, we thought 

D 

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34 TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK 

a lot. There was nothing for it but to return to 
the hotel, and there our curiosity was excited by 
seeing a crowd round the telegraph-board. We 
worked our way to the front, and found the cause 
of all the excitement was a press telegram to the 
effect that war was imminent between England 
and Russia, and that all the Russian men-of-war 
in the Mediterranean had been ordered home, 
with instructions to call at Cadiz and Lisbon on 
the way. From what we saw and heard, both 
then and later, it was quite clear to us that the 
sympathies of the Portuguese were most decidedly 
enlisted on the Russian side. 

In the evening we attended Paulus's benefit, and 
had a very jolly time. When we returned on 
board the Commodore showed us the agent's bill. 
The charge for water was most extortionate, con- 
sidering that we had filled up our tanks at Vigo 
we really required very little, but for that the 
charge was £i. The Commodore had remon- 
strated about it, but was told that the charge was 
the same whether he took much or little. 

Before turning in we sampled some Collares 
and Bucellas, which the Commodore had laid in. 
They are cheap rough wines, but very drinkable 
with soda water, or even plain water. 



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CHAPTER IV 

We got under-way next morning at 6, and with 
wind and tide in our favour soon left Lisbon 
behind. 

At II we passed Cape Espichel, bearing 
E.b.S., let go log and laid course S.b.W., a fresh 
breeze blowing from W.S.W. The weather con- 
tinuing fine we sighted Cape St Vincent, bearing 
S.b.W., at 8. On Monday at 12, midnight, 
hauled log and took departure from Cape St. 
Vincent, bearing north-west, distance ten miles, 
and laid course S.E.^S. We made Cape Spartel 
about 2 A.M. on Tuesday morning, and when I 
came on deck at 4 we were just crossing Tangiers 
Bay. At 6 Arthur came on deck to look about 
him, and as it was quite calm I thought I would 
seize the opportunity and turn in for a couple of 
hours. About 9 I came on deck again, and 
looking forward, as usual, directly I got up the 
companion, said, " Why, there's the Rock !" To 
my astonishment and disgust everybody com- 



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36 TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK 

menced to laugh, but what annoyed me most was 
that although I expressed my willingness to back 
my opinion I could get no one to take me up. 
In another half-hour or so we were able to make 
out the batteries, and the scoffers had to take a 
back seat, and own that I was right Some 
twenty-four years had elapsed since I had been at 
Gibraltar, but the impression it had then made on 
me had not been effaced. We brought up inside 
the New Mole at 1 1 A.M. and found two yachts 
lying there, the steam yacht Olivia^ and the yawl 
Alruna, 

When the pratique boat came alongside we 
were all disgusted to find that war had not yet 
been declared, and we were sorry to hear that 
poor Captain Rose of the Night Thought had 
been lost overboard off* Cape St. Vincent. He 
had made some wonderful passages across the 
Bay in small boats. Only stopping long enough 
to make ourselves somewhat presentable, we went 
ashore, and found, much to Mac's disgust, that it 
was some little distance into the town. He 
begged us to take a cab, but the Commodore was 
obdurate, and said a walk would do him much 
more good. Personally, I was only too glad to 
get an opportunity of stretching my legs. Although 
it was our invariable rule to go in for a square 
sleep when in harbour, it was so hot in the cabins 



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IN AN EIGHTEEN'TONNER yj 

next morning that we were obliged to turn out 
much earlier than we otherwise would have thought 
of doing. At lo, with all the skylights, doors, 
and hatches open, the thermometer in the main 
cabin marked 70°. It was still hotter ashore, and 
when the Commodore proposed walking, there 
was a regular mutiny, as we, the crew, at once 
refused. The Commodore, however, was quite 
equal to the occasion, and simply said, "Very 
well, then you must give me a lift." As he left 
us to pay for the cab he had decidedly the best 
of it. We had intended to lunch at the " Hotel 
Royal," but were somewhat surprised when we 
were informed that the hotel was shut for the 
afternoon, as the proprietress had been married 
that morning, but that it would be open for table- 
d'fibte as usual. It was a great nuisance, as we 
had to go the whole of the way back to the boat 
for lunch. In the afternoon we strolled into the 
gardens to hear the band play, and luckily ran 
against a friend who was in garrison. He kindly 
offered to put our names down for the library, an 
offer which it is needless to say we accepted. 
Going off to the yacht the Commodore slipped on 
the steps and fell into the water, and was very 
nearly choked by Jack before we — as the wretched 
Commodore could not speak — could make him 
understand that he was amphibious. That night 



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38 TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK 

\ 

we dined at the " Hotel Royal " and had a shock- 
ing bad dinner. The wedding had evidently up- 
set the whole establishment. Mac said he hoped 
that the bridegroom was having a better dinner, 
as otherwise his temper would be utterly ruined, 
and his wife would have a real bad time. Captain 

H came off to lunch with us next day, and 

after looking round the boat he said he thought 
that we must hold our lives very cheap, as he 
would not have come out in such a small craft for 
anything. He tried to persuade us to remain for 
the races, in which he was running two horses, 
and he told us he was getting himself into con- 
dition by walking up to the signal station on the 
top of the Rock every day. As we had walked 
up to the galleries, which is only about half-way, 
the day before, and had barely yet recovered from 
our exertions, we admired the feat, but betrayed 
no wish to emulate it Orvis compared chrono- 
meters with the Alruna, and found ours was eight 
seconds out. We strolled up to the library in the 
afternoon, and revelled in the English papers. 
The rooms were deliciously cool. 

Got away next morning at 8, homeward 
bound, as the Commodore was due in London on 
the first of June. We had scarcely got clear of 
the Mole when we met H.M.S. Neptune coming 
in crowded with troops. The wind \yas S.W.b.W., 



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IN AN EIGHTEEN'TONNER 39 

consequently almost dead against us, and there 
was a nasty choppy sea, so what with the wind 
and the current, as it runs from the Atlantic into 
the Mediterranean at about the rate of four knots 
an hour, we could make no headway at all, and 
to be perpetually shifting the sheets to no purpose, 
especially when you get a dose of salt water over 
you every time, is not only far from amusing, but 
is quite sufficient to cool the ardour of the most 
enthusiastic mariner. 

Even the Commodore got sick of it at last, 
and said he would run for Ceuta. The boat was 
accordingly put about, and we brought up in 
Ceuta Bay in five and a half fathoms, with twenty 
fathoms of chain out, at 1 2. There was a heavy 
sea running into the Bay, and when the wind is 
blowing hard from the north-east it would be 
impossible for any yacht to remain safely at 
anchor, more especially as the bottom is all rock. 
There is no harbour of any kind, but they are at 
present engaged in building a breakwater, which, 
when 'finished, if you once got inside, would no 
doubt make it a fairly safe harbour of refuge. I 
greatly fear, however, that this important work — 
judging by the number of men they have employed 
and their rate of progress — will not be finished 
much before the Channel Tunnel. Somehow or 
another we had all got it into our heads that 



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40 TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK 

Ceuta was worth seeing ; but when we caught sight 
of the dilapidated . collection of mud buildings 
which compose the town, we did not think it 
would be worth our while to land, so the Com- 
modore set us to work to take in a couple of reefs 
before starting again. This had scarcely been 
accomplished to his satisfaction before the pratique 
boat came alongside. The Commodore informed 
the officer that we had no intention of going 
ashore, and therefore he would not trouble him to 
fill up our papers. However, whether it was for 
lack of work, and consequent need of fees, he 
insisted on taking our papers ashore, much to the 
Commodore's disgust. 

There was no help for it, and so we resigned 
ourselves to circumstances, and although we dare 
not look it, we felt rather pleased, as we hoped 
that he would remain away long enough to allow 
us to have our luncheon in comparative peace ; 
as no matter how hard it is blowing you can 
always feed more comfortably when your boat is 
at anchor than when she is thrashing to windward. 
In the one case, although the table may be dodging 
about in a very lively manner, you can generally 
manage to put away the greater part of the con- 
tents of your plate ; in the other, as one moment 
the table may be, and very often is — constantly 
in our case — above your head, and next moment 



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IN AN EIGHTEEN'TONNER 41 

considerably below your waist, nearly all your 
time is si>ent in trying to prevent the dishes and 
bottles from being emptied into your lap, and 
while thus employed your plate of food gently 
glides on to your knees, and from thence to 
the floor. We had succeeded in lunching, and 
were consequently enjoying our smoke on deck, 
when we saw a large barge full of people coming 
off. It was rather puzzling to us why such a 
number should think it necessary to come off to 
our little boat, and for a moment it was a question 
with us whether they were friendly or hostile. 
Our minds were soon set at rest, as the pratique 
officer hailed us and asked the Commodore's per- 
mission for his friends to see the boat. No doubt 
their curiosity had been excited on hearing from 
him the trip the boat had made, arid from what 
we afterwards saw, Ceuta lacks amusement. 

They gave us their cards, and as perhaps one 
or more of them may some day come across this 
little account, I set them out, and beg again to 
thank them on behalf of the crew for the great 
kindness they showed us. Miguel Sala Igual, 
Director de Sanitad Maritima ; Andres Gonzales y 
Sanchez de Alva, Registrador del Presidad de 
Ceuta ; Benito Tavaronna, Captain of Artillery ; 
Francisco Annadion, Medico Militaire. There 
were also the Commander of the fort and another 



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42 TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK 

gentleman, whose cards I unfortunately lost, but I 
think he was the military advocate. Of course 
the Commodore asked them on board and took 
them below, and our last luxury, some English 
beer, was produced. They expressed themselves 
very niuch pleased with the boat, but were con- 
siderably astonished at our having attempted such 
a long journey in so small a yacht By this time 
the cabin was pretty full of smoke, as everybody 
was smoking something or another, and as the 
boat was rolling very badly in a nasty jerky sort 
of way, I was not surprised when one gentleman 
bolted up the companion, without even stopping 
for his hat, and was quickly followed by all the 
rest. They now displayed greater anxiety to get 
on shore than they had to come on board, and as 
they pressed' us to go with them and see what 
there was to be seen in Ceuta, we tumbled into 
the barge and accompanied them. They kindly 
acted as guides, and first of all took us up to the 
fort. It is some little distance from the landing 
stage, and as it was extremely hot, we did not 
hurry. I was walking with one of the party close 
behind the Commodore, who was discoursing 
eloquently about guns to the artillery officer. 
Presently the latter left him and joined us, and 
immediately asked me what the Commodore's 
profession was. " Engineer, military or civil ?" 



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IN AN EIGHTEEN' TONNER 43 

I made him happy by informing him he was only 
a civil engineer. "Then how does he know so 
much about guns ? " he inquired suspiciously. 
" Oh," I said, " he's an amateur in those aflfairs." 

When we got on board afterwards and com- 
pared notes, we found that he had put the same 
questions to every member of our party, the 
Commodore included. Whether for a moment or 
two he fancied we were spies from Gibraltar, and 
regretted having invited us to see the fort, I don't 
know ; anyhow, we saw some splendid ten-inch 
breech-loading Krupp guns mounted, and others 
lying about ready for mounting. In the galleries 
at Gibraltar we had not seen any gun of equal 
calibre. The captain of artillery, for the sake of 
exercise, succeeded after a long struggle in lifting 
one of the shot, which weighed 90 kilos = 1 80 lbs., 
just clear of the ground ; but both the Commodore 
and Underbill, determined not to let a Spaniard 
have it all his own way, succeeded in carrying the 
same shot right across the fort. Not content with 
doing it once, the Commodore repeated the feat 
and strained himself internally. He did not find 
it out till the next day, but then he was very seedy, 
and had to take a couple of days* rest They 
told us they had 6000 troops in garrison. 

Ceuta is a large convict establishment, and 
when we were there they had 1500 convicts. It 



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44 TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK 

seems a pity that they do not employ them in 
making a good harbour, instead of keeping them 
at their present work. We were afterwards taken 
to the Moorish quarter of the town. This is 
separated from the town by a high wall, and the 
gates of the enclosure are closed every night at a 
certain time. We looked into one or two of the 
houses, but were obliged to beat a hasty retreat, 
as the odours were anything but savoury. Some 
of the young girls had their faces uncovered and 
were strikingly good-looking. It appears that 
these Moors never intermarry with the Spaniards, 
and keep strictly to their own customs. After 
they had showed us round they insisted on taking 
us up to their club, and on the way the military 
advocate nodded pleasantly to a Moorish woman 
sitting behind the grated window of a tumble- 
down old building. He informed me she was 
waiting her trial for having murdered her child. 
She certainly looked very unconcerned, and smiled 
and nodded back in a most cheerful manner. 

The club was arranged in the same fashion as 
all the other clubs we had seen, the best room 
being used as a ball-room, but where the ladies 
come from, unless the members fall back on the 
dusky beauties, it would be hard to say. Some 
excellent sherry was brought in, and the health of 
the Queen was proposed in very flattering terms, 



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IN AN EIGHTEEN' TONNE R 45 

and drunk with all the honours. The Commodore 
then proposed the health of the King (since dead). 
It would have made a good picture if anybody 
had taken a sketch of us all standing up with our 
glasses in our hands singing "For he's a jolly 
good fellow," and the Spaniards trying to pick up 
the words from us. However, whenever they 
failed they always cheered, so it did not much 
matter, and the row was something terrific. In 
spite of their unpleasant experience of the morning 
they came off to the boat with us, but nothing 
would persuade them to venture on board again. 
We had a final drink, and, amid mutual expressions 
of good- will and waving of hats, our kind friends 
left us. The wind was now blowing hard, so we 
had to turn to and get in another reef and set 
forth jib, and after getting up the anchor, bade 
farewell to Ceuta. 

Although Ceuta was not one of the ports in 
the black list, to avoid going through the formal- 
ities again, the Commodore decided on making for 
Algesiras instead of going back to Gibraltar, 
and waiting there till the wind moderated or 
shifted. 

We were all night working past Europa Point, 
and we did not bring up off Algesiras till 10 
next morning, after a very wet passage. There 
is no need for a bill of health at Algesiras, so any 



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46 TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK 

yacht coming from an unhealthy port, and the 
passengers and crew wishing to see Gibraltar 
without first doing seven days' quarantine, can 
easily manage it by anchoring oflf Algesiras and 
going across to Gibraltar, three miles and a half, 
in a little steam ferry-boat which runs morning 
and evening. It only shows the farce of the 
whole system of quarantine that this should be 
the case. Had we even had cholera on board, 
there was nothing to prevent us from going into 
Gibraltar whenever we liked. The guide-book 
informs you that Algesiras was once a town of 
magnificence and note, but few traces of its early 
splendour are now to be found. There is one 
good Plaza and a market-place, the shops being 
under a funny little colonnade surrounding a large 
open space. In the chief church here I noticed, 
among the other usual ex-votos, two splendid 
switches of human hair. If the young women 
who presented them really cut them off their own 
heads, it shows a depth of gratitude with which 
one does not generally credit lovely woman. 



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CHAPTER V 

The wind showed no signs of shifting, so we 
arranged with the manager of the " Hotel Victoria " 
to provide us with animals for a ride round to 
Gibraltar, as we thought we might just as well go 
and see the races, about which we had heard so much. 
We were also still doubtful whether, if we went 
across in the ferry-boat, we would be allowed to 
land ; while the boy at the hotel, who was to be 
our guide, assured us that he would take us into 
Gibraltar without any trouble. Our Berthon was 
alongside about 9.30 next morning, and we 
quickly stowed ourselves away in her, for were 
we not going to see the races, and the rank 
fashion and beauty of Gibraltar ? Alas ! we 
were doomed to disappointment, for while, no 
doubt, the ilite of Gibraltar were present, beauty 
was conspicuous by its absence, and with the 
exception of one young lady, daughter of a high 
official, we did not see a good-looking woman on 
the ground. 



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48 TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK 

The painful recollection of my disappointment 
— which is still too vivid — must be my excuse 
for this digression. We had gone about fifty 
yards from the Qtiripa when we heard the 
Commodore — who had been unable to join us, 
as he was still very seedy, having strained himself 
at amateur shot drill at Ceuta, and felt quite 
unequal to any exertion — hailing us ; looking 
round we saw both Orvis and the Commodore 
pointing at something which, however, we were 
unable to discover, so keeping in the even tenor 
of our way, we arrived safely at the Mole. We 
found the boy waiting for us with three sorry- 
looking steeds, caparisoned in queer-looking saddles 
of the Mexican type, a sort of arrangement which 
raises you almost six inches above your gee. We 
walk«d our horses through the town, as the pave- 
ment did not permit of fast riding, and at the 
same time we had to keep a sharp look-out for 
holes, as in the middle of the street, every here 
and there, one came across a drain, minus its iron 
grating, or else set so low in the surrounding 
stone that should your animal step in it the 
results would be nearly as disastrous. Once clear 
of the town we took to the sands and had an 
exhilarating gallop. It is about ten miles round 
to Gibraltar, and the coast road is intersected by 
two rivers, the Guadaranque and Palmones, over 



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IN AN EIGHTEEN' TONNE R 49 

which we were ferried. The boats were worked 
by means of a wire rope, which, stretching across 
the river, was carried on board. The ferry-men 
had long pieces of leather with a large lump of 
cork at the end ; when everybody was on board 
they walked forward, and without stooping, with 
a mere turn of the wrist, succeeded in hitching 
the wire rope with their leather, and putting the 
end over their shoulders walked aft ; when they 
reached the end of the boat, with another turn 
of the wrist they disengaged their leather and 
commenced again de novo. The neatness with 
which they always caught hold and released their 
leather commanded our admiration. I had a try 
myself, but failed to catch once in half a dozen 
tries. Once over the Palmones, we cantered into 
the little Spanish village on the edge of the 
neutral ground, and leaving our horses at a little 
Fonda, crossed the neutral ground and entered 
the lines without the slightest difficulty. We 
lunched at the " Hotel Royal," and as we had a 
decent meal, we came to the conclusion that they 
had got over the excitement caused by the 
marriage. 

The race-course, just inside the lines, is certainly 
not one of the best, and the ground was as hard 
as a brick. We got there in time to see Captain 

H come in second, to a horse called the 

E 



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50 TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK 

Camel, for the first race ; but the less said about 
the racing the better. The only noticeable feature 
of the meeting was the absence of "bookies," 
all the betting being done on the Pari Mutuel 
system, under the management of the officers of 
the garrison, and confined to members of the 
garrison library, jockey club, and officers in the 
army and navy. It was the first race-meeting I 
had ever been at where it was impossible to 
purchase a drink. It is true that the soldiers had 
their canteens there, but then they were some 
way down the course, and we did not know 
whether they were open to the public 

We saw two amateur "bookies " doing a thriving 
silver business among the soldiers. The gientle- 
man who called the odds was a sergeant in the 
fusiliers, and his clerk — a private. The prices 
they laid were nearly as bad as the prices we now 
have to put up with in England. In a field of 
nine, I heard them offer three to one, bar two, 
and an outsider romped in. 

When we got back to the hotel, where we had 
left our horses, we found only two, and our guide 
was also missing. After waiting about half an 
hour, we saw him galloping towards us from the 
racecourse on one of our gees, accompanied by a 
friend on the other. Both the wretched animals 
were in a fearful lather, and our guide had been 



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IN AN EIGHTEEN- TONNE R $ i 

evidently galloping them about the whole after- 
noon. He explained to us that he had taken the 
horses to meet us, and when we pointed out to 
him that we were three in number, and that he 
had only taken two horses, he was not put out 
in the slightest, but simply said he did not think 
he could manage a third. Candid youth ! 

We had a delightful ride back in the cool of 
the evening, and found our dinner ready for us at 
the hotel, and we sat down, after our twenty 
mile ride, with excellent appetites, to a very good 
meal. We were still at table when the Commo- 
dore rushed into the room ; but before we could 
even greet him, he burst out with, "I say, you 
fellows, you had a narrow squeak this morning." — 
" Narrow squeak 1 what do you mean ? " — " Why, 
didn't you see that shark following you, when 
you went ashore in the Berthon?" — "Shark be 

, we heard you hailing us, and saw you 

pointing at something, but we couldn't see any- 
thing." — "Oh, very well," said the Commodore, 
" you ask Orvis. You hadn't got forty yards from 
the boat before Orvis drew my attention to a 
shark, which followed you steadily till you got 
near that shoal ; we saw his fin plainly." He was 
so much in earnest that we could not help 
believing him, but we were all mighty pleased 
we had not seen the gentleman with the fin, as 



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52 TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK 

to Tcnow that you are being attended by one of 
those pirates when one is in a small Berthon 
almost loaded down to the water's edge, must be 
anything but a pleasant sensation. The Com- 
modore told us that he had had the tank filled up 
in the afternoon, and had only paid half a peseta 
(fivepence) a breaker. For this sum the man 
fetched the water from a distance of about a 
quarter of a mile. 

Wednesday^ 6th May, — There was no change in 
the weather ; it may here be said that there are 
only two winds in the Straits of Gibraltar : those 
from the east and west, known respectively by 
the locals as "Levante" and "La Poniente." 
Unfortunately for us the wind was still in the 
latter quarter. Underbill left us and caught the 
7 boat for Gibraltar, as he had to be back in 
London by the tenth, and had booked a passage 
in the Paramatta, which ought to have arrived 
at Gibraltar at 6 that morning. However, even 
with the glasses we could see no signs of her. 
We heard afterwards that the boat did not come 
in till late in the afternoon, and Underbill had a 
horribly slow time of it ashore. We were all very 
sorry to lose him, as he is not only an excellent 
companion, always in good spirits, but a good 
navigator, and an able and most enthusiastic 
yachtsmaa In the afternoon we went for a 



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IN AN EIGHTEEN'TONNER S3 

Stroll, as Mac said he did not feel equal to a 
ride to the cascade, and spent the greater part 
of the morning in trying to discover a soft seat 
on board. During our peregrination Mac took a 
fancy to a three -cornered puppy we saw in the 
market-place, so the Commodore promptly took it 
in his arms, and held up a dollar to its noble 
proprietor, who was taking his siesta on his own 
doorstep. An electric shock could not have 
stirred him more : he jumped up, seized the coin 
with a profusion of thanks, and no doubt regretted 
that he could not sell a pup at that price every 
day. The Commodore presented it to Mac, and 
it was immediately christened " Chirps." Nobody 
could make out what breed he was, but we have 
since been informed that he is a Spanish pointer. 
His original owner had unfortunately cut or bitten 
oiT his tail as close as possible, which somewhat 
detracts from his appearance. 

Next morning we got under- way at lo, wind 
N.N.W., but very light. We set our trysail, as 
the Commodore thought it was getting mouldy, 
in order to give it an airing. We had barely got 
into the Straits before the wind shifted to S.W.b.W., 
and once more we were in for a wearisome thrash, 
under a trysail, and with such a light wind, we 
were scarcely able to hold our own against the 
current ; so the Commodore — much to our delight 



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TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK 



— consented to bring up for the night under the 
shelter of Peregril Island (on the African coast), 
but after reading the sailing directions, he thought 
better of it, and decided in favour of Almanza 
Bay. I may as well here quote the sailing 
directions, as it may perhaps help to explain 
why we departed so hurriedly from Almanza 
Bay:— 

"Peregril Island. — From Almanza Point a high 
rugged coast continues eastward as £ar as Peregril or Coral 
Island, and then turns north-east to Leona Point. The 
centre of this island is exactly midway between each point, 
or a short mile from both. It lies at the base of the 
Sierra Bulones, or Apes Hill, with the land of which it 
appears blended ; it is of nearly triangular form, a mile in 
circuit, and its northern point 244 feet high. ... On its 
eastern side there are two coves, the northernmost, called 
Ruy or Levante, and the southernmost, Reina; they are 
only fit for small craft. There are other coves on the 
north and west, where landing may be effected to climb the 
cliffs, should it be necessary to reach its simimit for any 
purpose, or to obtain, fuel. It contains a cave called 
Palomas, in which 200 men could find shelter. . . . Anchor- 
age : Between Peregril Island and the coast there is good 
shelter for small vessels, both from easterly and westerly 
winds, and the island would be resorted to but for the 
unfriendliness of the Moors, Smuggling craft and fishing 
vessels are all that frequent it, when overtaken by bad 
weather. In case of necessity a vessel may obtain water 
on the shore of the mainland opposite the island, but the 
greatest precaution must be used against any sudden attack J* 



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IN AN EIGHTEEN' TONNER 55 

The same sort of warnings about the African 
coast appear over and over again in the sailing 
directions. 

A little after 8 we stood in for Almanza 
Bay. By this time it was very dark and we could 
see no signs of an opening in the land, but the 
Commodore did not seem uneasy, and sailed right 
ahead into the very shadow of the tall cliffs. We 
made sure that he was going to put us on the 
rocks, but as we were only part of the crew, 
we had to sit still and await events : we were 
exactly in the same position as the gentlemen 
in the Light Brigade, about whom Tennyson has 
sung — 

" Their's not to make reply, 
Their*s not to reason why, 
Their's but to do and die." 

However, just when things were getting too 
exciting to be altogether pleasant, we passed in 
between the headlands. The rocky cliffs run up 
to a considerable height on each side, and I doubt 
whether you could effect a landing on either side, 
as the cliffs seemed almost perpendicular. How- 
ever, there appeared to be a strip of sandy beach 
at the head of the bay. 

The bay is — at night, at all events — a very 
ugly one. We had just got the foresail off, the 
anchor was ready, and Jack was only waiting for 



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56 TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK 

word to let go, when Orvis drew our attention to 
a boat which was sneaking up under our lee. 
We were still looking in wonder at this mysterious 
boat with its solitary occupant, when Jack called 
out, " Three boats to windward, sir." Apparently 
there was only one man in each of these boats, 
though Orvis said that the one which got closest 
to us was full of men lying down ; anyhow, the 
effect was most uncanny. We knew there was 
no village in the Bay, or even any houses, and 
although it was calm, with next to no wind, we 
heard no rattle in the rowlocks, nor the sound of 
the sculls as they were dipped in the water. 
Orvis and the Commodore thought it best to get 
sail on her once more ; but as there was very little 
wind, and things were looking decidedly ugly, for 
there was no doubt all these boats were bearing 
down on us, Mac was kept busy handing up all 
the firearms we had on board. It was rather a 
miscellaneous collection — a rook rifle, a double- 
barrelled shot gun, and a Colt's revolver. By the 
time the las't weapon and an adequate supply of 
cartridges had been handed up, the leeward boat 
was pretty close under our stem, so the Com- 
modore handed over the tiller to Orvis, and taking 
the Colt in his hand stepped on the Monkey 
Island, and kept the strange boat covered ; in 
another moment he would have fired, but luckily 



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IN AN EIGHTEEN' TONNER 57 

we got a puff of wind, and without waiting to see 
them closer, we bolted. 

" Mark the dens of Caitiff Moors : 
Ha ! the pirates seize their oars, — 
Haste we from th' accursed shores." 

It was horribly disappointing, for we had all 
counted orr having a square sleep. As it was, we 
had a horribly stupid night, tacking along the 
coast, and making scarcely any way. All next 
day was the same, winds light and variable. By 
this time everybody was in a bad temper. Here 
we were having only a thirty mile trip to make 
from Algesiras to Tangiers, and we had already 
been some thirty hours at it It wa» my eight 
hours out, and I rejoiced when I came on deck to 
find.it was such a lovely night About 9.30, 
as we were standing in for the African shore, I 
made out a very bright light about two miles 
west of Cape Baga. Orvis or I could not 
understand it at all, as there is no light on this 
coast between Ceuta and Spartel, and there is no 
village where I saw the light It remained visible 
till ID, when it suddenly disappeared. A few 
moments afterwards we made out a light about 
half a mile to the eastward of the spot we had 
seen the first one. The two lights then kept 
showing alternately; at 10.30 the east light 
disappeared altogether, and the west one became 



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58 TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK 

a flasher, and then disappeared also. Whether, 
judging from our size, they mistook us for one of 
their smugglers, or whether they thought they 
could induce us to run ashore, it would be hard 
to say ; but from what we saw of them, and what 
we have heard since, I would advise all small 
yachts to give that bit of " Afric's burning shore " 
a wide offing. 

In the early morning we caught a nice breeze 
from the north-west, which brought us along 
merrily, and after sailing through a small fleet of 
open boats, all employed in fishing, we brought 
up off" Tangiers in six fathoms, at 1 1.30 A.M. 
Slavery is . still in vogue here, and we found out 
afterwards that nearly all the fishermen were 
slaves. The view of Tangiers from the Bay is 
most effective, and we could not have had a 
better day for our first glimpse. A strong sun, 
and the cloudless blue sky reflected in the clear 
water, calm, but for a passing ripple ; while the 
white houses, with the minarets of the different 
mosques towering above them, stood out well in 
the bright sunlight. 



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CHAPTER VI 

The anchorage here is very fair ; but it seems a 
pity that the English destroyed the Mole — which 
they had been at so much trouble to build, and the 
remains of which are still clearly visible at low 
tide — when they evacuated the place in the 
seventeenth century. The quarantine officers 
made no difficulties, and they had scarcely pushed 
off when a shore boat came alongside with a most 
magnificent Oriental-looking gentleman seated in 
the stem. He introduced himself to us as Hadj 
Cador Sahta, and offered us his services as 
interpreter, guide, philosopher, and friend. He 
seemed to have any number of most excellent 
testimonials from various yachts, including the 
famous Sunbeam^ so the Commodore came to an 
arrangement with him, and shortly after we went 
ashore under his guidance. As we drew near 
the wretched landing-place, he said to us, quite 
seriously, " Now, gentlemen, when you get 'shore 
you do what you like ; you knock, kick the people, 



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6o TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK 

you do what you wish." He seemed to have a 
very poor opinion of his own countrymen. We 
passed the Custom -House without any trouble, 
then up several narrow lanes, between monotonous 
whitewashed walls and houses, unrelieved by any 
windows, and arrived at the " Hotel Centrale," 
where we lunched. 

This is a very nice hotel indeed, and when we 
entered the drawing-room we were nearly over- 
powered by the perfume from the roses, with 
which the room was filled. The view from the 
windows over Tangiers Bay is perfectly charming, 
and for this reason, I think, it is to be preferred 
to the next best hotel, the " Victoria," as the latter 
is outside the town ; and although it too com- 
mands a view of the sea, it is a comparatively 
distant one. Besides, as the town gates are shut 
at 10 P.M. every night, you might possibly be 
shut in or out Perhaps this rule is not enforced 
towards foreigners, as although you are not 
supposed to go out of the town, even to go on 
board, after lo, still, thanks to Hadj, who always 
saw us off, we never had any trouble, though we 
never went on board before lo, and the gates 
leading to the shore were always closed. 

After lunch Hadj proposed that we should 
visit the Soko, or large open place outside the 
town, where the markets are held twice a week — 



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IN AN EIGHTEEN'TONNER 6i 

on Sunday and some other day. He took us 
up the chief street, which is built on rather a 
steep incline, leading from the harbour to the 
Soko. The chief mosques are on the left hand 
side, but Christians are not allowed to see them, 
and did a Jew but put his unholy head within 
the door it would fare badly with him. The 
shops are funny little kennels, about six feet 
square, and raised about two feet from the ground. 
Here you might see a lawyer dozing over some 
heavy legal work, and close by a public letter- 
writer, apparently doing a good business. The 
other shops were chiefly straw -plaiters, coffee 
shops, and shops stocked with Moorish antiques, 
most probably supplied from Birmingham, for 
the benefit of unsuspicious tourists. The street 
— narrow enough at any time — was crowded, and 
every now and then you had to jump out of the 
way to make room for a string of mules coming 
in from the country laden with merchandise for 
the next day's fair; the overflowing panniers, 
sticking out on each side, kept knocking against 
you in a most unpleasant manner. The Moors 
are a splendid set of men, with grand physique 
and magnificent carriage. The women you could 
see nothing of, as their faces were hidden, except 
the eyes, and they were so swaddled up in their 
long wraps that they had no shape left. Those 



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62 TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK 

who were kind enough to drop their veils, and 
give us poor Christians a chance of gazing on 
their charms, were uncommonly ugly. It was 
curious to see the Jews walking about in a dress 
which we never see in England except on the 
stage, and which we associate with Shylock ; but 
here were any number of gentlemen who would 
have required no make-up to enable them to 
play the part At the top of the street we went 
through an archway, turned sharp to the right 
through another archway, then to the left through 
the gates of the town, and we were on the market 
ground. The fair, or market, was not till the 
next day, but large numbers of traders had 
already arrived, and it was a truly curious sight 
It was like a scene out of the Arabian Nights. 
The monotonous tom-tom could be heard in 
every direction, and the popping of guns as some 
happy Moors showed their joy by firing off their 
six feet long flint-locks in the air. Right in front 
of us, towering over the crowd, we could see a 
pyramid of Arab acrobats dressed in white with 
scarlet sashes. Every now and then one of 
them would fire off his gun. Close to us were 
some twenty or thirty wretched -looking camels 
making the most of their rest, and near them 
were a number of women with uncovered faces 
guarding bundles of alfalfa. Every one of these 



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IN AN EICHTEEN' TONNER 63 

women, and even their children, had some sort 
of blue nvark between their eyebrows or on their 
chins. As they were evidently not Jewesses we 
asked Hadj how it was they exposed their faces. 
He told us that they were a low class, and that 
the marks were tribal ones. Just then we spied 
out a real snake charmer, and not waiting for 
further details rushed off, and Hadj, who seemed 
to be a person of consequence, soon got us a 
place in the front row. 

We got there just as he was going to perform. 
On the ground in front of him, writhing about, 
were four or five snakes, the largest being about 
five feet long, and the rest varied from two to 
three. I could not tell what sort of snakes they 
were, and Hadj was as ignorant as myself 
Taking one of the smaller snakes in his hand, 
the charmer bade the boy who was sitting beside 
him strike up, and he immediately began to 
peg away on the tom-tom — before we left 
Tangiers we longed to smash every tom-tom 
in the place. After he had tom-tommed — if 
the term may be excused — for about five minutes, 
the snake charmer put the small snake he was 
still holding up to his mouth, and put out his 
tongue. The snake immediately caught hold 
of it, and seemed to be trying to draw the man's 
tongue down its own throat After giving every- 



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64 TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK 

body around an opportunity of seeing this, he 
picked up another and a larger one, and held it 
close to the neck of the snake which was still 
holding on to his tongue. The snake immediately 
caught hold, and the gentle pressure he brought 
to bear made the first snake let go. We noticed 
that when he did so the man was bleeding freely 
from his mouth. We had seen enough, more 
especially as we wanted to walk round the whole 
show before table-d'hdte^ but when we eventually 
left the ground about S, the wretched man was 
still performing and still bleeding. The Soko 
on a market-day is certainly not only an interest- 
ing but a brilliant scene, but I think what struck 
me most was the large audiences which the 
numerous story-tellers seemed to command. 

Hadj next took us up to the Governor's 
Palace, which, as we understood, was scarcely or 
ever used, and which is decidedly out of repair. 
We walked through several rooms still showing 
traces of their former glories, and we only re- 
gretted that the place should be allowed to go 
to decay for want of ordinary repairs. We now 
thought we had done enough for one afternoon, 
as it was excessively hot, but Hadj was not to 
be denied, and insisted on taking us up to the 
prison, where we were invited to look at the 
wretched prisoners through a hole in the wall. 



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IN AN EIGHTEEN' TONNE R 65 

by courtesy called a window. I use the word 
"wretched" advisedly, as although I suppose all 
prisoners are more or less 'wretched, still the 
treatment which a Moorish prisoner has to put 
up with, or perhaps it may be safer to say, the 
lot of one who happens to be sent to the prison 
at Tangiers, is anything but a happy one. When 
we looked in at the window they all crowded 
round, either to beg tobacco or money, or to 
offer basket-work for sale. To this day I regret 
that when I paid my visit to the prison I did not 
know the prison regulations — or rather want of 
them — or I would certainly have subscribed more 
largely. It appears that all the prisoners — here 
of course I am speaking only of the male prisoners 
— are crowded together in one large stone cell. 
The sanitary arrangements exist only in name. 
At the time of our visit we saw that all these 
unfortunates had chains fixed to their ankles, 
and we were informed that at night they had 
also to wear an iron collar, and were then all 
linked together. Incredible as it may appear, 
these poor wretches are entirely dependent on 
what they can beg or earn, and on their relations, 
friends, and generous visitors, for their support. 
The materials for the basket-work they have to 
pay for themselves. As we returned to the hotel 
we noticed that a great many of the houses had 

F 



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66 TO GIBRALTAR AND BACA' 

a hieroglyphic, painted in red on the wall. We 
were told that this was supposed to represent the 
human hand, and was placed by the Jews on 
their houses as an effective protection against 
the evil eye. 

In the evening we dined at the hotel, and 
afterwards went to a Moorish Caf6 Chantant 
Half a dozen men were sitting on their heels in 
one corner of the room beating the infernal tom- 
tom, and chanting in a sing-song way peculiar to 
these people, and horribly wearisome. There was 
no fee for admission, but we were supposed to 
take coffee, which was certainly not good. 

Next morning we were ashore early, as we had 
arranged with Hadj to ride to the lighthouse on 
Cape Spartel — a ride no one should miss. Hadj 
was waiting for us, close to the gate leading from 
the port, with two good-looking mules and a 
couple of small weedy ponies. He was good 
enough to allot one pony to me, which I could 
not help looking on as a mark of honour, as he 
took the other one himself, and Hadj has a great 
idea of his own importance, while Mac and the 
Commodore had the mules. If I had had any 
idea of the sort of road we had to travel on I 
would most certainly have stood out for a mule, 
as they are much more sure-footed. Not much 
time was lost in mounting, and I flatter myself 



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IN AN EIGHTEEN' TONNE R 67 

we made a most effective start Hadj led the 
way, sitting more erect than ever, and besides he 
had evidently put on a clean burnouse in honour 
of the occasion, although it must be confessed that 
his burnouses were nearly always dazzlingly white ; 
then the Commodore, Mac, and myself — in the 
order mentioned — in blue flannel coats, white 
flannel trousers, boating shoes, and yachting caps, 
scarcely the costume for the Row ; while Jack, 
looking very hot, brought up the rear, carrying the 
Commodore's camera. Once on the Soko we 
dismounted, and the Commodore took two instan- 
taneous photos of the noisy and moving masses. 
Unfortunately the heat or damp affected the plates, 
and they became useless. Jack was glad to get 
leave to return, and mounting, we proceeded gaily 
on our way. 



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CHAPTER VII 

Leaving the Soko the road soon led us across 
the Jews' river, and then by a lot of narrow little 
lanes hedged in by the walls and fences enclosing 
the gardens of the pretty summer residences of 
the different ministers, rich Moors and Jews. As 
a woman does not care to hide her beauty, or to 
keep it for the gratification of one, so the flowers 
refused to keep within bounds, and wave after 
wave of clusters of roses of every hue — nasturtiums, 
convolvuluses, and other sweet-smelling flowers — 
flowed over the walls and fences to rejoice the 
eye, and gratify the senses of the passer-by. It 
struck us forcibly that the American minister, 
with national 'cuteness, had secured the position 
with the most shade, the best view, and had 
decidedly the best house. 

Getting clear of these lanes, and crossing a 
large barren open space, the road leads up into 
the mountains. I have ridden in many countries, 
but I never met with such a road. Every here and 



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TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK 69 

there the rock cropped up for a distance of a 
hundred yards or so ; no attempt has been made 
to level it or blow it up, so when you come upon 
it you must simply trust to Providence and the 
sagacity of your animal to climb, and slip, and 
creep, and tumble across it in his own way. It 
was fearfully hot, and when, after about an hour 
and a half of this amusement, we heard that we 
had only got about half way, we began to think 
that we had made a mistake in coming at all. 
However, just as we were beginning to feel rather 
dejected, Hadj pointed out our luncheon boy — 
who had been sent on in front with a well-laden 
mule — waiting patiently for us by the side of the 
road. How grateful we were to Hadj for his 
forethought, and how we did bless Bass as Hadj 
extracted bottle after bottle of the foaming liquid 
from the mule's capacious panniers, and how 
delicious that drink seemed to our blistered palates 
and parched throats ! 

Not much time was wasted, and we were soon 
on the road again, as we meant to lunch at the 
lighthouse. The road soon began to descend, 
and this was the most beautiful part of a lovely 
ride. " It was a day that sent into the heart a 
summer feeling." The mountains were covered 
with heather, and sweet-smelling shrubs, arbutus, 
laurels, lauristinas, gum, broom, myrtle, and others 



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70 TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK 

that I did not recognise, and the air was redolent 
with perfume. Far below us ''The bridegroom 
sea is toying with the shore, his wedded bride. 
And in the fulness of his marriage joy, he decorates 
her tawny brow with shells ; retires a pace to see 
how fair she looks, then, proud, runs up to kiss 
her. All is fair ; all glad, from grass to sun !" 

Far ahead of us Hadj was riding, but every 
now and then we could hear his monotonous 
chant, as he repeated some verses of the Koran, 
and his fine figure in its becoming costume stood 
out clear against the hill's green background, and 
gave the finishing touch to a lovely picture. A 
little farther down a sharp turn to the left and the 
lighthouse was before us. The house, like most 
Eastern buildings, is square-shaped, the middle 
part being open to the sky. On every side of 
this square there is a cloistered walk, on to which 
the different rooms open, and as usual, a small 
fountain graces the middle of the square. It was 
delightful to come in out of the glaring sun into 
this deliciously cool spot The guardian of the 
lighthouse, a nice old Austrian, whose name I 
regret to say I have forgotten, allows visitors to 
the lighthouse to take their lunch in one of his 
rooms, a privilege which we were glad to avail 
ourselves of After lunch we persuaded him to 
come in and have a cup of coffee with us. He 



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IN AN EIGHTEEN' TONNER 71 

showed us his visitors* book, and pointed out to 
us with much pride Lady Brassey's name. He 
also displayed before us what evidently seemed 
to be his gjreatest treasures, a French copy of the 
cruise of the Sunbeam^ and photographs of Lady 
Brassey, her husband, and children, which she had 
kindly sent him from England. He told us that 
he had seen our little boat knocking about for 
some days in the Straits and wondered what it 
was. He complained bitterly about the difficulty 
of getting anything from Tangiers, and said that 
only a short time before he had been signalled by 
a passing vessel, but could not give an answer as 
be had no signal halliards, and although he had 
sent in for them over and over again, he could get 
nothing. The Commodore told him that he 
intended to start next morning, and said that he 
would signal him as he passed. The old gentleman 
seemed very pleased, and promised to wave back 
to us, but he said, " I am so high up, I am afraid 
you will not see me." 

Shortly afterwards he took us to see some por- 
cupines he had caught, and told us that there were 
plenty of them about. They were fine animals, 
but unfortunately both had been injured by the 
traps, one having lost nearly half his fore-leg. 
He kindly insisted on presenting us with a small 
bundle of their quills, as souvenirs of our visit to 



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72 TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK 

Cape Spartel, and I am using one of them as a 
penholder while I write. It was now time to start, 
and after bidding good-bye to our hospitable 
friend, we mounted for the return journey. So 
far as I saw, our wretched animals were given 
nothing to eat during the whole time we were 
there. All that was done for them — to the best 
of my knowledge — was to loose their girths. By 
this time it was so much cooler that our ride back 
was most enjoyable. Hadj varied the return 
journey by taking us over the plain, an open space 
above Tangiers, from which you can get a splendid 
view of the Straits. 

Stopping for a moment to enjoy it, we entered 
the town, and hurrying through the wretched 
streets, dismounted at the hotel, in time for the 
table-cThSUf all thoroughly pleased with a most 
delightful excursion. Hadj's charge for mules, 
horses, muleteer, and luncheon, not including wine 
or beer, was only ;f i : I2s. At dinner we met 
two young Englishmen who had just come over 
from -Gibraltar. It turned out that we had some 
mutual friends, so it was not long before we struck 
up a sort of friendship. They had come over in 
the wretched little steamer which still plys between 
Gibraltar and Tangiers, and had noticed the Chiripa 
when they came in ; and as they expressed a wish 
to be allowed to see her, the Commodore — who 



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IN AN EIGHTEEN' TONNE R 73 

IS as far gone over his boat as a woman over her 
first baby — invited them to breakfast next morning, 
as he meant getting under-way about 10. 

Before going on board we had two or three 
games at billiards, the Commodore and I playing 
a double-handed game against our two new friends, 
on a table which most certainly had "a cloth 
untrue, with a twisted cue, and elliptical billiard 
balls"; and I regret to say we got the worst of 
it At 8.30 our friends came alongside, and were 
shortly followed by Hadj, with the provisions 
we had ordered him to bring for our passage from 
Tangiers to Lisbon, which would be, if all went 
well, our next port. We were sitting aft, waiting 
for a summons to breakfast, and Hadj had taken 
his boat forward to unload, so we had not noticed 
anything, when presently one of our visitors said, 
" Why, he's plucking a chicken alive !" 

It was quite true. Holding it firmly by the 
neck, one of Hadj's boat crew was, with true 
Oriental calmness, quietly plucking the unfortunate 
fowl, an attention which the wretched bird 
resented by kicking and struggling for all it was 
worth. The Commodore at once went forward 
and stopped it, much to Hadj's astonishment It 
appeared that the Commodore had ordered a 
dozen chickens, and Hadj had brought them off 
to us alive. The Commodore pointed out to him 



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74 TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK 

that in a boat only ten feet wide there was no 
room for a hen-coop, and that Hadj must despatch 
them before plucking them. "All right," said 
Hadj. " You give me knife." Orvis handed him 
a knife, and Hadj, taking one of the chickens by 
the head, proceeded to saw away at its neck, 
handling the knife somewhat after the fashion a 
violinist handles his bow. ** Surely," said the 
Commodore, " you can kill it quicker than that ?" — 
" How so ?" indignantly replied Hadj. " You call 
this knife, this no good." Another was given him, 
and the poor fowls were soon put out of their 
misery. To give some idea of the prices charged 
at Tangiers, I have copied out a few items from 
Hadj's bill, which now lies before me. Fifty 
eggs, I od. ; four rabbits, 2s. (the rabbits were 
very small) ; twenty-nine pounds of beef, 1 2s. id. ; 
three pounds of butter, 6s. 6d. ; one dozen chickens, 
6s. I cannot make out how much milk we had 
altogether, but I see that I have a note on the 
bill to the effect that it was dear. It will thus be 
seen that while chickens, eggs, rabbits, and beef, 
were cheap, milk and butter were dear, water too 
was not cheap, as we had to pay 9s. 6d. for filling 
up our tank. As for flowers, you could buy 
bundles of lovely roses for next to nothing. 

Unfortunately, the executions had rather 
spoiled the appetite of one of our visitors, and he 



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IN AN EIGHTEEN- TONNER 75 

did not do that justice to his breakfast which I 
imagine the Commodore would liked to have seen. 
Breakfast over, they bade us farewell, and went 
off in Hadj's boat, Hadj first getting the Commo- 
dore to add to his list of testimonials, which he 
could conscientiously do. When our friends were 
some little distance off, they turned round to wave 
a final adieu, and at the same time one of them 
tried to comfort us by shouting, " You will never 
get back !" However we knew what the little 
Chiripa could do, and therefore this cheerful 
prophecy did not alarm us in the least. While 
we were getting up the anchor, the gun-boat 
Grappler^ which had been at Gibraltar with us, 
went by, steering for Cadiz, and we exchanged 
compliments. 

It is a marvel to me how it is that Tangiers 
has not yet come into fashion as a health resort. 
It takes only five days by one of the comfortable 
floating palaces of the P. and O. service from 
London to Gibraltar, while the cost is only ;f 9, 
and Tangiers is but four hours from Gibraltar. 
Surely this would be less fatiguing — to say nothing 
of more comfortable — for an invalid than the 
wearisome railway journeys from Calais to Paris, 
and again from Paris to Nice or Mentone. As 
for the climate. Dr. C. J. B. Williams, the great 
authority, in his standard work on consumption, 



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76 TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK 

says, "Tangiers stands as an intermediate be- 
tween the Atlantic and Mediterranean climates ;" 
and Dr. J. A. Lindsay in his climatic treat- 
ment of consumption says, speaking of the 
Riviera, "There is no such certainty in the 
winter climate as may be had in Algiers or 
Morocco." In Tangiers, besides, you do not run 
the same risk of an earthquake, and you are 
certainly not obliged to wrap up after 5 P.M. 
to protect yourself from the Mistral. The hotels 
— though of course not so large — are equal in 
every respect to those on the Riviera, cleaner 
than some I could mention, and the charges are 
certainly not extortionate. Beautiful sites for 
building villas on can now be bought for a song, 
and I think the prices I have already given for 
provisions will compare favourably with any other 
health resort. Tangiers boasts a first class English 
doctor, an English clergyman, and an English 
consul ; so while the first two gentlemen take care 
of your body and soul between them, the last will 
take care of your property. 



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CHAPTER VIII 

The anchor was soon up and catted, and with 
all plain sail set, we got under- way about 1 1 . 
The wind was from the north, but very light, so 
light that we were scarce able to make any head 
against the current However, it ^as a lovely 
day ; we were close inshore, so we lolled about 
on the deck enjoying the grand view of the 
coast At 5, still calm, the wind shifted to 
south-east, and we got the Berthon on deck, 
folded it up, and stowed it away in its usual 
place alongside the companion and saloon sky- 
light The Commodore then took his departure, 
and laid the course N.W.^W. About 5.30, 
Spartel lighthouse being about three miles off, 
as it was getting hazy, the Commodore thought 
it advisable to signal our friend according to 
promise. We signalled him two or three times, 
but could not get any response. Our glasses 
were scarcely strong enough to show a man at 
that elevation at that distance off. We had at 



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78 TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK 

all events kept our promise, and we tumbled 
down to dinner with good appetites and easy 
consciences. 

Tuesday, i^th May, — The weather was most 
aggravating, the wind still remaining light and 
shifty ; during the course of the day it changed 
round to nearly every point of the compass, and 
as the clouds were dull and threatening, we 
scarcely knew what to expect ; as we more or 
less anticipated, it freshened up considerably as 
the evening advanced. 

Next morning the wind was blowing suffi- 
ciently hard for us to have to shift jibs and 
take in a reef. There was a very nasty short 
sea, and we were soon taking more water aboard 
than we did in the gale in the Bay. 

Smack ! — and some thirty or forty gallons of 
water were racing aft, pouring down the fo'castle, 
wetting all the men's bunks, then down the main 
companion, while the rest disappeared through 
the scuppers. Scarcely free of one wave before 
another was on top of us ; go forward to shift 
the sheets and you got a wave over you which 
wet you through, in spite of oileys. Hold on 
to the shrouds and you got a wave which came 
to your middle, and when you did your trick 
at the tiller you never knew the moment you 
would be washed to the other side of the deck, 



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IN AN EIGHTEEN' TONNE R 79 

like your deck cushion, which was constantly 
washed from under you. The little boat seemed 
to know that we were not having a very gay 
time of it, and struggled bravely against the 
elements, coming up to time as bravely as any 
man who ever stood in a twenty-four foot ring ; 
but wind and sea were too much for her, and 
all she could do was to keep her course and 
bravely take her knocking about The wind 
kept on increasing during the night, and next 
morning it was blowing hard with a very heavy 
sea. You could not stand in the cabin without 
holding on, and you had to get your food the 
best Way you could. The fire could not be lit 
in the stove, and it was hopeless to attempt to 
lay the cabin table. 

One of the bookcases, screwed to the ceiling, 
came away, and one of Colt's heavy revolvers, 
which was in the rack on the port side, was flung 
right across to the other, making a considerable 
dent in the ceiling. It was most amusing to 
notice how, when you came off your watch and 
called up the next watch, " Now, then, wake up, 
starboard watch ! " the individuals thus roused 
from their sleep would look you over to see 
if your oileys were streaming or not, and thus 
get some idea of what they were going to ex- 
change their warm bunks for. 



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8o TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK 

At 6.4 s the Commodore hove her to, sail- 
ing her with foresail to mast. About i P.M. 
— in my watch — to add to our troubles, we had 
to tack to avoid a steamer. If there is one 
thing more annoying than another, it is in having 
to give way to these wretched channel and ocean 
bullies. The rules of the road are plain enough. 
All steamers must give way to sailing vessels ; 
but the reverse is the case. Here we were 
having a nasty thrash, doing our best to get an 
extra mile or two out of her on each tack, and 
we had to lose the benefit of perhaps a couple 
of tacks to avoid being run down by a steamer. 
Over and over again, not only on this cruise but 
on others, we have had to tack "to get out of the 
way of some wretched coasting collier. These 
colliers are the curse of the channel. They most 
likely come out of port with nearly all hands 
helplessly drunk, one hand on deck, and that 
the man at the wheel, and the rest below getting 
over the effects of their last carouse, or, perhaps, 
commencing another. The man at the wheel 
has been set his course, and he is not going to 
alter it a quarter of a point to avoid anything 
which he thinks he can run down with impunity. 
To them it means nothing if they run into a 
small yacht or fishing smack. It would be some- 
thing like a 'bus running down a perambulator 



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IN AN EIGHTEEN- TONNE R 8 1 

or a costermonger's cart. The yacht or smack 
would be cut in two, while those on board the 
steamer would scarcely feel the shock, and the 
steamer would in all probability escape without 
injury. If no one were rescued so much the 
better, as dead men tell no tales ; but even if 
some one is fortunate enough to survive, and 
obtain the name of the vessel, and proceedings 
are eventually taken against the captain and 
owner of the offending boat, the decision of the 
court of inquiry — as in a recent running down 
case where one person was drowned — will be 
something to this effect : We find the steamer 
was entirely in fault ; no blame can be attached 
to the captain of the yacht, and the court there- 
fore Orders that the certificate of the captain of 
the steamer shall be suspended for three months. 

Can anything be more farcical ? Most likely 
the captain takes a holiday for that time, receiving 
all the time full pay from his employers — who 
prefer a captain who drives along regardless of 
everything and makes quick passages — or else 
he acts as first mate, still receiving full money. 
But suppose for one moment that he only receives 
a first mate's pay for that three months, and gets 
a berth directly his time has expired, is that an 
adequate punishment for having wilfully and 
deliberately imperilled the lives of tKree or four, 

G 



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82 TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK 

or even a smaller number ? The driver of a 'bus 
or van in our London streets who acted in that 
way would be tried for manslaughter, so would 
the driver of a locomotive, or even the captain of 
a small steam launch on the upper Thames ; 
but the captains of these colliers and steam 
merchantmen seem to have a licence to murder. 
Of course these remarks do not apply to the 
large passenger vessels. These boats are well 
navigated, carefully handled, and always strictly 
observe the rule of the road. Till a steamer 
captain or two has been hanged, or received a 
sentence of penal servitude for life, the number of 
missing smacks will continue to increase, and 
small yachts will never be safe. An old yachts- 
man, a great friend of mine, will never stop out 
in the channel at night if he can possibly make 
a harbour, as he says the danger of being run 
down is too great 

A well-built and well-found yacht of from 1 7 
to 20 tons, properly handled and navigated, will 
go anywhere, and with the exception of the risk 
you run of being washed overboard, you are safer 
on board a little yacht than on a big steamer. 
The dangers proper of yachting can be summed 
up in one word — Steamers. 

The next day the wind went down a good 
deial, and at midnight it was easy, though there 



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IN AN EIGHTEEN' TONNE R 83 

was Still a very nasty popple. At 2 on Saturday 
morning — in my watch — we had to tack twice to 
avoid steamers. At 10 A.M. the wind had 
moderated so much that we were able to shake 
out two reefs in the mainsail, one in the foresail, 
and stand in for the Tagus. Going in by the 
south channel, we ran up the river at a g^and 
pace, but off Belem had to heave-to as usual to 
wait for the quarantine officers. At last they 
came off in a small steam launch and signalled 
to us to come alongside; with the main -sheet 
well hauled in we ran alongside and delivered our 
papers, but the man had scarcely seized them with 
his tongs before we had shot ahead. Hauling 
the boom in till it was almost amidships, we still 
ran ahead of them, although they were doing all 
they knew to keep up with us. This did not 
seem to please the officer in charge, who after- 
wards turned out to be the sanitary doctor who 
had made — or perhaps, I should rather say, had 
tried to make — ^himself so agreeable on our first 
visit to Lisbon. Having carefully perused our 
papers, he roared out, as we were fast leaving the 
launch astern, " Have you been anywhere else ? " — 
" Yes, Algesiras," answered the Commodore. — 
" Oh ! then you have quarantine ; go and anchor 
over there," pointing to the anchorage in front of 
the old convent of St. Jeronymite, " and put your 



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84 TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK 

flag up." Orvis came aft looking very much 
disgusted, and the dirty yellow quarantine flag 
was run up. " I thought he'd play you that 
trick," he said, "because you didn't get him to 
attend Mr. Mac when we were here last." Run- 
ning in amongst some small coasters, all flying 
the bilious yellow burgee, we brought up off" the 
convent at 4.30. 

Here was a nice state of affairs. We had had 
an uncommonly nasty thrash from Tangiers lasting 
six days, during which time we had scarcely ever 
been dry, and certainly never had a square meal, 
and here we were pinned up in quarantine within 
sight of Lisbon for three days, simply because we 
had touched at Algesiras — a place where, as I 
have explained in earlier chapters, there is no 
quarantine arrangements, and consequently a place 
which could not be in the black list, and, as we 
found out afterwards, was not in the list at all. 

After dinner — only the second hot one since 
we had left Tangiers — we had a long consultation 
as to what was to be done. We all agreed that, 
as we were entirely in the hands of the quarantine 
officers, it would not be advisable to annoy them ; 
while it was most necessary that we should have 
an explanation as to the reason of our having 
been put in quarantine, considering that all our 
bills of health were clean ones. The Commodore 



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IN AN EIGHTEEN-TONNER 85 

solved the difficulty by proposing that next morn- 
ing we should hoist F C V L— J V R— J V W of the 
commercial code of signals, which meant : Wanted 
fresh beef, butter, eggs and milk. He pointed 
out that some one would have to answer the signal, 
and then, when the sportsman came alongside, we 
could press for an explanation. This was unani- 
mously agreed to, and with full and final blessings 
on all quarantine officers, we turned in. 

The next morning I was awakened about 7 
by a boat hailing us. I didn't turn out, as 1 
don't see the force of doing that in harbour, but 
listened anxiously. "You capitano, sar?" was 
what I heard first, and then I recognised the oily 
accent of the Commodore as he sweetly owned 
to the spft impeachment. " What you want ? " — 
"Why, fresh milk, eggs, meat, water, vegetables, 
everything!" — "All right, sar, you may have 
agent's boat alongside ; will tell him to come off." 
He was evidently then going to row away, but 
the Commodore roared out, " Here, I say, why 
are we in quarantine ? " — ** I don't know, sar ; but 
you can come ashore and see chief officer," 
and he then scuttled away. Not long afterwards 
provisions of all sorts were brought on board, and 
we sat down to a splendid breakfast. 

It was a perfect morning. The wind had 
dropped almost entirely, and the sun was shining 



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86 TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK 

as it never seems to shine in our "tight little 
island." We brought cushions and pillows on 
deck, filled our pipes, and while reposing com- 
fortably, discussed our chances of being let off 
our three days* boycotting. At 1 1 the Com- 
modore went ashore to interview the chief quaran- 
tine officer. It seemed to us hours before we 
saw him returning, but directly we could make him 
out we saw him shaking his head most ominously. 
** No go," he said as he jumped on deck. — "Whom 
did you see ? " I asked, as I thought if he had 
interviewed the man who had put us into 
quarantine there was no likelihood of getting any 
remission of the sentence from him. — " The head 
man," was the Commodore's doleful reply. — 
"What did he say?" — "Only that the doctor 
had put us in quarantine." — " What for ? " — " He 
didn't know, but he was a good old sportsman ; 
and although he put me in a sort of kennel, 
and only spoke to me through a tiny aperture, 
he was very civil. He said he would send up 
to the doctor's private house and ask him his 
reasons for putting us in quarantine." To cut 
a long story short, at 2 the same day a boat 
came off with a note, of which the following is a 
faithful copy : — 

" Mr. Captain — Doctor, chief officer of this Board of 
Health, says, that he put you in quarantine, in consequence 



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IN AN EIGHTEEN' TONNE R 87 

of your having touched some ports of the Mediterranean, 
including Algesiras, 
** Belem. 

" The Interpreter of the Board of Health. 

"J. Mascasenhas. 

"17/5/85." 

When the Commodore read it, he was simply 
frantic. "Algesiras," he said, "is not in the 
Mediterranean." — "Then come ashore and bring 
your log and chart," said the officer in charge. — 
" Certainly," said the Commodore ; and then to us 
in a stage whisper, " By Jove, I must scratch that 
out." It appeared that when he had been ordered 
into quarantine, he had made the following entry 
in the log : " Brought up by order of quarantine 
officers (idiots)." This, however, was carefully 
altered into ''pro tern " before he went ashore. 
Luckily he was not asked to show his log, for 
when he convinced them from the chart that 
Algesiras was not in the Mediterranean, they let 
us go, as we had clean bills of health from every 
other place, having been imprisoned for twenty- 
two hours through their own ignorance. We soon 
hauled down the quarantine flag, and getting 
under- way, brought up at our old anchorage at 3. 
As we were all dying to get ashore and stretch 
our legs, after having been cooped up in a little 
boat for six days, we lost no time over our 



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88 TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK 

toilettes, and were soon on terra firma. After 
indulging in the luxury of a bottle of English 
beer, we had a bath and a shampoo, and sat down 
to an excellent dinner at the " Hotel Centrale," 
which we did full justice to. 

At 10.30 next morning, according to arrange- 
ment, the proprietor of the hotel had a carriage 
and pair waiting to take us to Cintra. The 
drive, until you get to Cintra itself, is most un- 
interesting. We stopped at a small village, the 
name of which I was unable to catch, about half- 
way, in order to feed the horses, but it struck us 
forcibly that the coachman did all the eating and 
drinking. I certainly did not see the horses get 
anything to eat or drink, but I did see the 
coachman pour vinegar over their loins : none of 
us had ever heard of this practice before, and I 
cannot imagine what possible benefit it can be. 
The whole time we were detained at the little 
inn we were of course persecuted by the usual 
swarm of loathsome mendicants. I say loath- 
some, because to obtain your pity they expose 
their deformities or open sores, and sometimes 
the sight is most sickening. Getting bolder, the 
small boys and girls — nearly all of them suffering 
from sore eyes — invaded our room, and we had 
to take refuge in our carriage. After driving for 
about one hour and a half more over an ex- 



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IN AN EIGHTEEN'TONNER 89 

tensive heath, we reached the foot of a rocky 
mountain, but well clothed with trees ; bearing to 
the right of it we entered a pretty village, nestling 
under the shadow of the rock, and turning sharp 
to the left round the base of the mountain, Cintra 
lay before us. 

'* Lo ! Cintra's glorious Eden intervenes 
In variegated maze of mount and glen. 
Ah, me ! what hand can pencil guide, or pen, 
To follow half on which the eye dilates ; 
Through views more dazzling unto mortal ken, 
Than those whereof such things the bard relates — 
Who to the awe-struck world unlock'd Elysium's gates ? 
The horrid crags, by toppling convent crowned. 
The cork trees hoar, that clothe the shaggy steep, 
The mountain moss, by scorching skies unbrowned. 
The sunken glen, whose sunless shrubs must weep, 
The tender azure of the unruffled deep, 
The orange tints that gild the greenest bough. 
The torrents that from cliff to valley leap, 
The vine on high, the willow branch below, 
Mixed in one mighty scene with varied beauty glow." 

The road now runs downhill to the village, or 
town. On the right, in the valley far below, a 
fantastic group of buildings attracts the eye ; it 
looks more like a collection of used-up lime-kilns 
than anything else. We could not ask our 
coachman, as we had found out a long time 
before that he could only speak Portuguese ; but 
when we arrived at " Lawrence's Hotel," we were 



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90 • TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK 

informed that that building was the Palaccio Real, 
and the conical buildings were merely the kitchen 
chimneys. 

Cintra is situated in a fertile basin, surrounded 
by rocky mountains — but all the same well 
covered with trees and verdure, which hide the 
sea from view ; but from any of these heights, 
especially from the Palaccio de Pena, a view can 
be obtained which baffles description. We were 
told that it was from there that a look-out was 
kept to see if there were any signs of Vasco de 
Gama's returning fleet, and it appears that from 
that point it was discovered. After an excellent 
lunch, which did not lose anything by being served 
to us by a charming English Hebe, we took 
mules to ride up to the Palaccio de Pena — better 
known, I believe, as Pena Convent, as it formerly 
belonged to the monks of the beautiful Jeronymite 
convent at Belem, which we had so many oppor- 
tunities of studying when we were anchored off" it 
during our twenty-two hours' quarantine. It was 
fearfully hot — not a breath of air, and the road 
which zigzagged up the mountain was uncom- 
monly steep. Imagine my delight when, after 
having gone about one hundred yards, my mule 
declined to go a foot farther. The muleteer 
exerted his utmost powers of persuasion, which 
consisted in striking the poor beast over the head 



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IN AN EIGHTEEN-TONNER 91 

with a formidable-looking bludgeon, but it was no 
good, and I had to make the rest of the ascent 
on foot, hauling the beast after me, while the 
muleteer brought up the rear. I must honestly 
confess that my companions were just as stubborn 
as the mule, as, although I did my best to 
persuade them to get off and let me ride instead, 
they all turned a deaf ear to my convincing 
arguments and refused to assist me in any way. 
I think I felt the disappointment I experienced at 
finding them so selfish, more than the heat and 
labour of the climb. Presently we reached the 
gates, and leaving our mules, entered the gardens. 



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CHAPTER IX 

The change was wonderful : from the strong glare 
of the sun and the intense heat we entered into 
profound shadow and a deliciously cool atmo- 
sphere. It was as if we had stepped from the 
sunny side of the road — on which only dogs and 
Englishmen walk, according to a Spanish saying 
— into some old cathedral ; only in our case we 
had trees for pillars, and the roof was a beautiful 
canopy of graceful foliage, which sheltered us 
effectually from the sun's scorching rays. " Soft 
mossy lawns. Beneath these canopies extend 
their swells, fragrant with perfumed herbs and 
eyed with blooms, minute yet beautiful." Flower- 
ing shrubs and choice ferns were there in profusion, 
and the murmur of falling water could be heard 
on every side. The walks have, nearly all, been 
cut out of the living rock, and the labour must 
have been very heavy. The building is con- 
structed on the very summit of the peak, and the 
ramparts which surround it are also hewn out of 



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TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK 93 

the solid rock. The cloisters — a charming place 
to meditate, smoke, or flirt in — have been left 
very much as they were when the unlucky monks 
were driven out from this terrestrial paradise. 

There is nothing very particular about the old 
monastery itself, but it was some time before we 
could tear ourselves away from the lovely pano- 
rama which stretched out below us. Far away to 
the west was the blue Atlantic, in front was the 
mouth of the Tagus, and turning to the north, as 
far as the eye could see, were miles and miles of 
plain, only broken by "Mafra's majestic pile.*' 
However, we had to think about getting back. 
Reluctantly we left the charming scene, and found 
our mules patiently waiting for us. I had no 
trouble with my animal, and we had an exciting 
ride back to the hotel. I have already mentioned 
in a former chapter that the road zigzagged up 
to the convent ; coming back the muleteer ran 
behind us, distributing resounding blows most 
impartially among the mules, then ran down the 
face of the hill, perhaps catching us in time at the 
lower corner to favour the mules with some more 
of his attentions, and so on to the bottom. We 
had a pleasant drive back, dined at the " Centrale," 
and went on board early, taking with us a gentle- 
man whom we had met at the hotel on our 
former visit, and who had agreed to go with us 



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94 TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK 

as far as Vigo, on condition that he was to 
be allowed to go as passenger, and would not be 
called upon to keep watch, or do anything else. 
The Commodore readily excused him, and we were 
very glad of his company, but Mac complained 
bitterly, and said it was not at all fair. 

Next morning, the 13th, we got under-way 
about 7 o'clock, and with a light breeze dropped 
down the Tagus. About 8.30, the wind begin- 
ning to freshen, the Commodore took in a reef 
and got the dinghy on board, and made it fast in 
its usual place. At mid-day it was blbwing very 
hard, and the wind had shifted from N. to N.b.W., 
so we took in second and third reefs, then we 
tacked in for the land and commenced another 
enjoyable thrash. At 3 o'clock. Cape Roca bear- 
ing east, we let go the log. The rest of the 
afternoon we kept tacking on and off the land. 
At 4.15 we hauled the log and found we had 
done seven miles, which, as it was done on a 
wind, was not encouraging. All night long we 
were at it, perpetually shifting sheets, and getting 
a ducking every time ; it had turned cold too, 
and the consumption of rum was prodigious. 

Mr. J , our Lisbon friend, had decidedly the 

best of it ; and when Mac and I came off our 
watch, wet through, and saw him slumbering 
peacefully in his warm bunk, I agreed with Mac 



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IN AN EIGHTEEN'TONNER 95 

that it was a disgusting sight. At 3 we sighted 
the Burlins h'ght, bearing N.N.E., and not long 
afterwards passed it, taking the outside course. 

In the morning the wind eased up a bit, so at 
1.15 the Commodore set second jib and shook 
out two reefs in the mainsail. At 6 o'clock 
the wind commenced to freshen, and at 8 it 
was blowing very hard from north-west, so it 
looked as if we were going to have another 
night's fun. At 12, midnight, the wind shifted 
to N.N.W., and we had a succession of heavy 
squalls. 

Next morning, although the ^Vind had died 
away completely, there was a very heavy swell 
running, and the boat rolled about in a way that 
was anything but comfortable. At 2.30 burst 
reef earring, and hove -to and shook out reef. 
At 3 o'clock, the roll being very heavy, we burst 
the main-outhaul. As we hoped to fetch Vigo 
that evening, a sharp look-out was kept for 
Bayona Island ; towards evening, however, it came 
on hazy, and as the light is one of the highest in 
the world, being over 600 feet above the level of 
the sea, it is consequently very often obscured by 
the clouds. We certainly could not make it out, 
but the Commodore decided to run in. About 
8 o'clock we could just make out Bayona 
Island towering out of the water right ahead of 



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96 TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK 

US, but even then we could not make out any 
light The weather had been getting thicker and 
thicker, making it impossible to see any distance. 
The Commodore was bent on getting in that 
night, and so we stood in by the north passage. 
It was ticklish work, as you could not see fifty 
yards. Orvis was steering, Jack was in the bows 
on the look-out, the Commodore and I were 
standing by the shrouds on the port side, when 
presently Jack roared out, "Breakers ahead!" 
Yes, there they were quite clear, and we could 
hear the roar of the water as it beat against the 
submerged rocks. 

" Down with the helm ! '* yelled the Com- 
modore, and with a swish the little boat came 
round, and we stood out to sea again, after as 
narrow a little shave as any of us were ever in. 
Only those who have experienced it can realise 
the effect produced by those two simple words, 
" Breakers ahead !" I cannot describe it, but I 
know it sent a cold shiver down my back, and I 
did not feel better till we were well out at sea 
again. Three or four minutes more and we would 
have been hard and fast on the rocks, and with 
such a heavy swell rolling it would not have been 
long before nothing but the Chiripds bones had 
been left for the seas to lick, and of course we 
would not have stood a chance with the Berthon, 



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IN AN EIGHTEEN' TONNER 97 

even if we had succeeded in launching it The 
Commodore, after having taken in a reef, hove her 
to on the port tack, and I turned in. 

Next morning we found we had drifted a 
long way back, and as the wind was very light 
we did not bring up at Vigo till half-past seven 
P.M. By the time we had made her snug, it was 
too late to think of going ashore, so we dined on 
board. It was quite a comfort to be able to have 
the table laid and to be able to eat like a Chris- 
tian, off a plate, and without having to hold on. 

Early next morning Manuelo was alongside 
with everything we could desire, amongst other 
things some delicious strawberries, and we had a 
splendid breakfast Coming on board about i 
for our lunch, we saw that the VanadiSy a steam 
yacht of 300 tons, had come in, and while we 
were at lunch, her owner came on board and 
kindly invited us all to dine with him that night, 
and the Commodore accepted the invitation. We 
spent the afternoon idling about the shore and 

showing Mr. J the sights, and we did not 

forget to call on the manager of the " Hotel Con- 
tinental " and sample some English beer. At half- 
past six the steam launch from the Vanadis was 
kindly sent to fetch us, and we spent a delightful 
evening on board. About eleven o'clock we bade 
good-bye to our kind host, who expressed his 

H 

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98 TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK 

doubts as to our ever getting back to England, 
and he also said that " although he was going to 
Stop at Vigo two days and two at Corunna, he 
would be back at Southampton before we were." 
His prophecy, however, did not come true, as we 
were at Southampton at least ten days before 
him. 

The next morning the Vanadis party paid us 
a visit, and were pleasantly surprised at the extent 
of the Chiripds accommodation. We exchanged 
books, and were delighted to get something fresh 
to read. We informed our friends of the curious 
news we had heard at the Consul's that morning, 
i,e, that the cholera had broken out in England, 
and, of all places in the world, at Durham, but 
we could not fancy cholera in that dreariest of 
cathedral towns. The Commodore told them he 
would get under-way after lunch, and they said 
they would look out for us, and wishing us a safe 
passage they steamed away. Lunch despatched, 

our friend, Mr. J , wished us good-bye, and 

was put ashore by Jack, it being his intention to 
return to Lisbon by train. Before we say good- 
bye to Mr. J I think I ought here to repeat 

a story — not an anecdote, but a fact — which he 
told us. We had been complaining to him about 
the way in which we had been mobbed whenever 
we went to the theatre at Lisbon, and at the 



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IN AN EIGHTEEN-TONNER 99 

same time expressed our astonishment at the 
unusual amount of politeness we received from 
the manager and all the employees at the hotel. 
So far as the mobbing at the theatre went, we 
had attributed it, more or less, to our costume, 
because, as our wardrobe was limited, and we 
never knew what weather we might have to go 
off in, we always went ashore in blue flannels, 
yachting caps, and shoes. We had raised the 
question one evening, over our pipes, when he 
said, much to our amusement, " Why, don't you 
really know ? " — ** No, certainly not," was our 
reply ; ** unless it was our generally disreputable 
appearance." — " Nothing of the kind. The fact is, 
it was in all the papers when you first arrived 
that you were four English noblemen who had 
made a very heavy wager that they would do the 
trip from England to Gibraltar and back ; and 
the manager told me that lots of people came to 
the hotel simply to stare at the representatives of 
England's old nobility." I can only hope we did 
it credit. While Jack was away a big bouquet 
of fresh flowers was affixed to the Chiripds bow- 
sprit, the anchor was weighed and made fast 
inboard, and under all plain sail, we bore down 
on the VanadiSy running close alongside, we dipped, 
and, with waving of hats and handkerchiefs, bade 
good-bye to the Vanadis and to Vigo. 



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CHAPTER X 

It was a perfect day — ^just such a day as we 
had when we left Vigo for Lisbon — and we looked 
forward hopefully to a pleasant crossing. There 
was next to no wind, but what there was, was 
from the north, so it was not till 7.30 that 
we got clear of Bayona Island, going through 
the north passage. We were very glad when 
we were clear, as it was rather thick, and it 
was fast getting thicker. At 8.30 the wind 
freshened up considerably, so we hove-to, took in 
two reefs, and shifted to fourth jib. There was a 
nasty lumpy sea running, and we shipped a lot of 
water. After midnight, to our great joy, the haze 
commenced to lift and the wind eased. 

Next day, 26th May, broke nice and fine. 
We met several steamers during the day. Shortly 
after mid-day the Commodore shook out two 
reefs, and we set second jib. At 7 o'clock 
we tacked in to Finisterre light, bearing N.b.E., 
and distant about five miles. Hour after hour 



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TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK loi 

did we stand on and off the shore, but we did 
not seem able to shake off the light It was a 
lovely night, quite clear, and a bright moon. I 
think the moon must have been accountable for 
it, as during our watch Mac concocted the follow- 
ing poem, with which he favoured us the next 
morning : — 

"To THE Commodore. 

** When at the helm I breathed a prayer, 
But you were hard of hearing, 
That when I reached Cape Finisterre, 
That I might finish steering." 

At I o'clock A.M. Finisterre light, then bear- 
ing E.^S., suddenly disappeared. The Com- 
modore then laid course north-east, and took 
departure. It was such a lovely night that I 
did not mind yielding to Mac's entreaties to dog 
one watch, as there was certainly no necessity 
for more than two to be on deck at a time. 
When I relieved Mac and came on deck I went 
forward as usual to inspect our side lights, and 
found the starboard one had gone out, so I came 
aft and took the tiller from Orvis, while he went 
below to trim and re-light it I was alone on 
deck, not the first time by many, but this was 
such a perfect night that one could, for a short 
time at least, realise "how passing sweet is 
solitude." I know nothing so impressive as to 



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be alone at sea at night. The feeble glimmer 
which straggles through the saloon skylight, and 
the light from the binnacle, only seem to throw 
the forward part of the vessel into deeper shadow. 
No lights in sight, no land, and no sound, except 
the splash of the water as a sea occasionally 
strikes the vessel, or a porpoise playing round, 
brings his head out of the water with a splash 
and a snort, close by where you are sitting steer- 
ing, causing you, the first time you hear it at 
night, to jump and almost fall off your cushion. 
If it is impressive in calm weather, it is awesome 
when rough. It is then you really realise the 
sea's irresistible power. 

In a few minutes Orvis came up, and having lit 
his pipe, began to entertain me with one of his 
yarns. He is a first-class watch mate, as he has 
got an inexhaustible fund of stories, which he re- 
lates with much humour, so that the time passes 
merrily, and you can scarcely believe you have been 
on deck for four hours. One of his yarns, and one 
which I never heard without laughing, will, I think, 
bear repetition here. Talking about the meanness 
of a certain large yacht owner, he used to say, 
" You may laugh, sir, but it's perfectly true ; the 
very mice on board that boat used to go about with 
tears in their eyes for want of something to eat" 

That night there was scarcely any wind, and 



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IN AN EIGHTEEN- TONNER 103 

yet, in the Bay^ we had to tack no less than four 
times to avoid the yachtsman's curse — steamers. 
In the morning we had a fresh breeze S.W.b.W., 
and the sky was overcast About mid-day the 
wind softened, but only for us to have it very 
thick about an hour afterwards, and then, to 
make things still more comfortable, we had some 
nice fine rain. 

Next evening we passed an English-armoured 
turret ship, of the Glatton class ; she was going 
more under than over the water, her decks being 
a-wash, and was apparently making shocking bad 
weather of it I don't think any one of us on 
board the Chiripa would have willingly changed 
places with the individuals on board that vessel, 
though it was one of our glorious iron kettles. 

29/A May. — It was still raining, but we had 
a fair breeze. About 8 o'clock P.M. we took 
soundings with armoured lead, got eighty fathoms, 
and brought up white shells, showing we were 
off the Ushant As this may not be quite in- 
telligible to some of my readers, I will attempt to 
explain it 

The charts have marked on them the depth of 
water you will find in the different degrees of 
latitude and longitude, and besides that, they 
tell you what the character of the bottom is in 
those places, ue. whether it is rock or shells, or 



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104 TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK 

sand, or clay, or even what sort of sand, or shell, 
or clay you ought to meet with. I may further 
say that an armoured lead is a lead with an 
opening in the base, which is filled up with tallow 
or some greasy substance, to which the sand, 
shells, etc., adhere ; therefore, when the lead 
showed eighty fathoms and we brought up the 
white shells, we knew we were off the Ushant 

There are lots of fishermen who know nothing 
whatever about navigation, but who will take you 
half round the coast of England by the use of 
the lead line alone. 

30/A. — A shocking nasty raw morning, with a 
horrid drizzle. We were once more getting into 
our detestable English climate, and pea-jackets 
and mufflers were again in demand. The Com- 
modore became rather anxious at not making 
land, although for the last week he had begun 
to distrust his patent log. According to the log, 
we ought to have been close home, but we could 
see no signs of land. As there was a nasty haze, 
the Commodore's anxiety increased, and when at 
three o'clock we sighted the barque Achille^ of 
Dunkerque, he determined to speak her and verify 
his position ; accordingly we ran alongside. It 
was a long job, as, although we were sailing with 
our foresail to the mast, we would shoot right 
ahead of the old tub before we had time to get 



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IN AN EIGHTEEN- TONNER 105 

an answer, and then have to come round and 
repeat the process. However, we found our posi- 
tion was quite correct, and the log had played us 
the trick. 

About 4 o'clock P.M. it came on very thick, 
and Jack was set to work with the fog horn, or, 
as it is endearingly called, the little squeaker. 
I remember once being in Dieppe harbour, and 
a French yacht lay close to us ; the sailors be- 
longing to it made night hideous with their songs 
and their violent but unsuccessful attempts to 
extract melody from a concertina. We in the 
cabin did not like it at all, and it was evident 
that our men liked it less, as one night, when the 
concert on board the neighbouring boat had 
nearly driven us frantic. Jack came on deck — of 
course with something more than Orvis's tacit 
permission — and played the little squeaker till 
they were reduced to silence. Every night after 
that, when they started a concert Jack did so 
too, and he was always left in possession of the 
field. 

It got thicker and thicker, and so at 7 
o'clock the Commodore hove -to. We had a 
hideous night of it ; all round us we could hear 
the steamers whistling, and never knew the 
moment we might not see the bows of some 
adjectived collier towering above us. At 10 



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io6 TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK 

o'clock the haze lifted and we sailed her again, 
and at 11.15 we sighted the Eddystone, bearing 
N.^E. 

When we came on deck after breakfast next 
morning the fog had cleared away and the sun 
was shining brightly, as if to welcome us on our 
return. Right ahead of us we could see Rame 
Head. Several times during the morning we 
were hailed by fishermen asking us where we were 
from, and I fancy this must have been on account 
of the Chiripa's battered, rakish, and generally 
disreputable appearance. A little after ten o'clock 
we passed the west end of the breakwater and 
entered Plymouth Sound, having been seven weeks 
away. What a different appearance it presented 
to when we were there last Then there were 
only a few fishing smacks, two or three small 
yachts anchored off the pier, a revenue cutter and 
one steamer. Now it looked animated and 
positively gay, for some twenty or more ocean- 
going steamers — the finest of their class, among 
them the Oregotty which has since been lost in a 
very mysterious way off Newfoundland — newly 
painted, decked with all their available bunting 
and with steam up, were brought up waiting for 
orders, never, alas, to arrive. 

They were the vessels commissioned to take 
out stores and the troops who were going to peg 



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IN AN EIGHTEEN' TONNER 107 

back the Russians. It made one's heart glad to 
think that at last we were going to put a stop to 
Russia's insolence, and at all events put a check 
on her further advance. But it was not to 
be, and after wasting millions of money, we drew 
back as usual. When the Russians get to Herat, 
I suppose we shall find that it is not necessary 
for our defence of India, and so on and so on, 
till they are in India itself, and then, as usual, 
it will be too late. At 11.30 we brought up 
inside the Cattwater, and a few minutes after the 
Custom-House officers came on board. High and 
low they searched ; in the bunks, in the drawers, 
under the cushions, in the wine lockers, not a 
place was left unvisited ; but as there was nothing 
to find they went away empty-handed. In all 
my experience I have never known a yacht treated 
in that way before, and I can only come to the 
conclusion that the officials at Plymouth are 
unusually polite. It may be as well to mention 
that this was the only time in the whole cruise 
that we were searched, or, in fact, had any un- 
pleasantness. It was a nice welcome home. We 
hurried ashore, as we wanted to stretch our legs, 
and we were all anxious to see if English beer 
still retained its flavour. We took the dogs 
ashore, it being only the second time that they 
had had a run since leaving Vigo, and the puppy 



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lo8 TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK 

had only once been ashore since we bought him 
at Algesiras. Anything more ridiculous than his 
walk it would be almost impossible to imagine, 
and even now at the time I write he has not been 
able to get over his sea roll. He walks exactly as 
if he had extremely high-heeled boots on his hind 
legs, so that his quarters are at times at right 
angles with his fore body. He kept us in roars 
of laughter, and was an unfailing source of attrac- 
tion to all the small boys and gals in Plymouth. 

At first we could not make out why everybody 
we met turned round to stare at us, but it presently 
seemed to us that our complexions were rather 
darker than the majority of the people we met ; 
and not having shaved since we left England, w6 
presented rather a hirsute and ragged appearance. 
A visit to the nearest hairdresser, and things were 
soon put right ; but unfortunately in getting shaved 
we made matters rather worse, as the parts of our 
faces which had been protected were quite fair, 
and the rest of the skin was almost as black as a 
hat Our appearance was most ludicrous, and we 
could scarcely look at one another without laughing. 
The Commodore lunched and dined with us at 
the Grand Hotel on the Hoe, and went up to 
town by the night train, as he had to be in 
town by 10.30 next morning, kindly leaving the 
boat at our disposal. The Commodore caught 



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IN AN EIGHTEEN' TONNE R 109 

his train and kept his appointment, which he had 
made before he left England ; as great a feat of 
punctuality as any of Monte Christo's. He had 
travelled nearly 2800 miles, reckoning it from 
Aldeburgh, in a small sailing yacht, and only 
arrived at Plymouth about twenty -four hours 
before time, having about fifteen hours to "Spare. 

The next day Mac and I took things very 
easily. For once in a way we were not disturbed 
in our sleep by the odious cry of, " Now then, port 
watch, turn out," and we were able to sleep the 
sleep of the just. 

Monday^ \st June, — We loafed about, bathed, 
and enjoyed ourselves thoroughly. We made 
arrangements with Hawke to have the boat photo- 
graphed, and next day several instantaneous photos 
were taken from the Cattwater. Wednesday 
morning we got under-way, bound for Southampton. 
There was a nasty haze and a very light wind. 
About 3 o'clock we were becalmed, and in a 
very ugly fog. About four hundred yards off on 
our port quarter was a large schooner becalmed 
also. Of course the little squeaker was brought 
into use, and day or night, it was hard to say 
which it was, was made hideous. Presently we 
heard the whistle of a steamer, but from which 
direction the sound came was, as is often the case 
in a fog, hard to make out ; but presently I saw 



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no TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK 

Orvis rush forward, seize the little squeaker from 
Jack, and blow through it, for all he was worth. 
" Good Heavens ! *' he roared, " she'll be into us." 
We then made out that a big steamer was bearing 
straight down upon us. We were utterly helpless ; 
there was not even sufficient wind to make the 
sails flap, and an accident seemed inevitable. 
Suddenly it seemed that the people on the 
steamer had perceived us, as her helm was put 
hard a-starboard, which would have had the effect 
of clearing us and going outside of us, but just as 
we thought we were all right, they put the helm 
hard a-port, and once more we thought they were 
coming into us ; however, they raced by between 
us and the schooner at a pace which, considering 
how the fog was, was certainly most dangerous. 
The steamer came close enough to us for me to 
read her name, and I saw she was the Electray 
which, I believe, belongs to one of the telegraph 
companies. 

The wind continued light We called in at 
Southampton for our dinghy, and found that the 
steamer which had heliographed us had reported 
having seen us off* Lisbon, and that, so far as they 
could make out, we had lost our boat and topmast, 
and that we must certainly have foundered in the 
gale which they met with two hours afterwards. 
We stopped the night at Southampton, and got 



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IN AN EIGHTEEN'TONNER 



under-way early next morning; nottoo early, but just 
early enough, as Mac and I are quite of one mind 
that it is a great mistake to make a toil of pleasure. 
Somehow or other the anchor would not come up, 
and in a weak moment I volunteered to help. As 
there is very little room in the bows, the Com- 
modore is obliged to have one of the patent 
windlasses, worked by a lever. I had an hour of 
this amusement, as our anchor had got foul of 
some moorings, and we had to keep on heaving it 
up a little and then letting it out again. If any 
one wants to get into condition I would recommend 
a little of this exercise, as I believe the treadmill 
must be child's play to it. Directly it was up, I 
went below to refresh, and Mac followed, as he 
thought that no doubt I might not care to drink 
by myself While we were thus pleasantly 
occupied I heard a good deal of cheering, and 
going up the companion, I found Orvis was 
receiving quite an ovation from the different 
yachts as we ran by, so I once more retreated 
below. We had nothing but light winds, calms, 
and fogs from here to Dover, where we eventually 
brought up in the Wick at 5 o'clock A.M., on 
Monday, June the 8th, thus bringing a delightful 
cruise to a successful termination. 

The dire forebodings of the croakers, cowards, 
and Solent sailors had not been realised. I 



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112 TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK 

cannot conclude without saying that in his choice 
of the crew Orvis had shown himself a shrewd 
judge of character, as no matter what the circum- 
stances might be, they were always cool and 
courageous, cheerful and civil. We had no 
grumblers on board, and it will give me much 
pleasure to ship with them again, even if only as 
one of the crew. 

Note. — Since the above was written I have seen a 
copy of the report of the Commissioners appointed to inquire 
into the cause of the upsetting of the life-boats off Southport, 
on the night of December the loth, 1886. The Daily 
Telegraph described it as " An Awful Night at Sea." I sec 
from the report that "at Lytham it was blowing 7 by 
Beaufort's scale." In the gale we were in the Bay, on 
April the 13th and 14th, the wind was registered at Biarritz 
as blowing 9, of course by the same scale. One may then 
fairly assume that it was blowing at least 10 outside. That 
being the case, I think we may fairly claim to have once 
more established the fact that a small boat, well built; well 
found, and properly handled, will go anywhere, and live in 
almost any sea. 



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APPENDIX 

As the majority of those who read the newspapers 
nowadays never think of looking at or for the shipping 
intelligence — which is generally printed in small type 
and hidden away in some obscure comer — and would 
never know or believe that a vessel was ever lost in any 
other.but the orthodox ways so dear to novelists, such as 
springing a leak, being wrecked, or catching fire, if their 
attention was not every now and then attracted, by a 
sensational headline printed in heavy leaded type, to the 
exciting details of some fearful disaster, such as the loss 
of the North Fleets the miming down of the Princess 
AlicCy or perhaps the collision between the royal yacht 
and the Mistletoe^ I have for their benefit, and as a 
justification of what I have said about the reckless way 
in which steamers are now navigated, compiled a list as 
nearly complete as possible of the yachts, sailing vessels, 
barges, etc., which have been mn down or come into 
collision with steamers during the last thirteen years. 

This list of course deals only with those cases where 
I have been able to find a full report, but how often 
does it occur that the poor fisherman's wife waits at the 
end of the pier or jetty, with one little one in her arms 

I 



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114 APPENDIX 

and a little toddler hanging on to her skirts, straining 
her eyes gazing out to sea heedless of the spindrift 
which flies in her face, bedraggling her scanty gown, 
running down on to her for the moment forgotten babe, 
and making her other little one cry petulantly to " mither " 
to take her home, — wearily waiting for the bread-winner, 
never, alas ! to return. 

Several smacks missing, supposed to have been lost 
in the last gale, will be all the notice in the paper ; but 
to those who really know the seaworthiness of our 
smacks, and how ably they are handled, this report will 
not be hurriedly accepted, but they will heartily sym- 
pathise, and will understand what is meant when they 
hear some fishermen say, "Poor Bill! lost? Not he, 

run down by one of them steamers." No report 

appears, those on board the steamer feel nothing,^ and 
perhaps know nothing, only a smack is missing ! 

Cases where steamers have been run down or come 
into collision with other steamers are not given, nor 
those where sailing vessels have come into collision 
with other sailing vessels. I have besides set out nine 
judgments — taken at random from the reported Board 
of Trade Inquiries, with the exception that I have given 
the preference to those cases of collision which have 
been attended with loss of life — in order that the public 
may see for themselves the value which our officials place 
on the lives of those who are foolish enough to go to sea. 

When one reads a judgment something hke the 

* In the case of the running down of the yacht May Fly^ a schooner 
of lao tons, it was reported after the accident by some of those on 
board the steamer that they feh nothing, and did not know that any- 
thing had happened till they heard the cries of the drowning people. 



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APPENDIX 115 



iollowing — and it is not an isolated instance — where an 
open boat on the high seas, in broad daylight and in 
perfectly calm weather, had been run down by a steamer 
because the officer in charge of the steamer imagined he 
would just miss the boat, and therefore kept going 
ahead till too late to avoid an accident, thinking he 
would chance it, and consequently several lives were 
lost ; and one then reads that the Court decided that the 
officer was to blame for not giving way to the boat 
according to the Regulations, yet they could only say 
it was an error of judgment, and considering his ex- 
cellent character, they did not propose to deal with his 
certificate, one is frightened to express what one really 
feels. Just fancy a station-master, in^bold defiance of 
the rules for the Regulation of Traffic, letting a train go 
on because he thought he could chance it: would 
that man be let down so easily? Take another case 
which is quoted at the end of this Appendix, where the 
mate of the steamer — this was in the Channel too — was 
found to blame for not having kept a proper look-out, 
and having only one man on deck, and where the Court 
said "the steamer was not navigated in a seamanlike 
manner." This was also a fatal collision, but will any 
one venture to say that if the same sort of accident (?) had 
happened on shore the accused would have got off in 
the same ridiculously easy manner ? Let the reader go 
through these cases and judge for himself. 

This list does not pretend, at least so far as the ten 
years from 1875 to 1885, to be by any means a 
complete one, as for that period they have been taken 
only from The Fields which I imagine simply mentions 
cases of collisions where yachts are concerned, and very 



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ii6 APPENDIX 

likely is not able to spare the space to report every case 
which occurs. It must also be borne in mind that the 
number of yachts which are put in commission every year 
is very limited, and that the majority of them are not in 
commission for more than four months. 

For the remaining three years, from 1885 to 1888, 
I have gone to the pages of the Shipping Gazettey which, 
I believe, is the official paper. 

There are three other cases of collision besides those 
I have set out at the end, in two of which several lives 
were lost, but which I have not set out, or taken into 
account in any way, as I have been unable to find a full 
report, and without the report of the Board of Trade 
Inquiry before me I am unwilling to apportion the 
blame. One of these must be fresh in the public mind, 
as I believe an illustration of the accident appeared in 
more than one paper. I refer to the running down of 
the mission smack (belonging to the Society for Provid- 
ing Mission Vessels for the North Sea Fishermen), when 
four lives were lost; another is the sinking of the 
Kalqfish (yacht), when both the owner and his wife were 
drowned ; and the last is the running down of the pilot 
cutter {Maiden) in fine weather and in broad daylight off 
Aldeburgh. In the analysis which follows I have only 
laid the blame on the steamer or sailing vessel when the 
decision arrived at by the Court has been such as to 
leave no doubt in any one's mind, and all other cases 
where there is a shadow of doubt I have put both 
vessels down as in fault. Looking through all these 
cuttings, it appears from my collection that in the 
thirteen years, from 1874 to 1888, there have been 130 
cases of collision or running down, in which 129 lives 



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APPENDIX 117 



were lost. While all the blame has been attached to 
the steamer, in no less than 60 occasions out of the 85 
where I have been able to find that there has been an 
inquiry, or an action at law, in only 1 6 cases have the 
sailing vessels or barges been proved to have been in the 
wrong. Blame has been attached to both in 6 instances, 
and only 3 cases have been found to have been acci- 
dental. It is scarcely necessary to point out to any one 
that a captain of a steamer has far greater command 
over his ship than the captain of a sailing vessel, but 
in spite of that we find, out of the reports which I have 
been able to discover, that the number of occasions when 
steamers were held in fault was 60 to 16 of the sailing 
vessels; while the loss of life occasioned by these 
collisions was for the former 72, and for the latter 14. 
Some one may say that I have only accounted for 85 out 
of 130 cases, but the reason for that is that I have 
been unable to find that any proceedings were taken in 
the others. With the exception of one case, where it was 
decided that both yachts were to blame, I have been 
unable to find a single instance where it has been held 
that the yacht has not been navigated with proper and 
seamanlike care, or where a proper look-out has not been 
kept It is satisfactory to note that out of all the cases 
I have set out — where an inquiry has been held or 
legal proceedings have ensued — that in two only has the 
Court come to the decision that the officer or officers in 
command were guilty of inhumanity — by that is meant 
not attempting to save life — but I much regret to have 
to say that in both those cases the vessels were English, 
commanded by English officers and manned (?) by 
Englishmen. 



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1x8 APPENDIX 



FROM *THE FIELD' 
1 8th December 1875 to 5th December 1885 

1 8th December 1875. — The *Lady Ambrosine* (s.) v. 

the * Princess Royal.' Collision. 
I St April 1876. — Collision with a yacht the *Ytene* v. 

the * Solent ' (s.) Moens v. Solent Steam Packet 

Company, 
ist January 1881. — The yacht *Lily' and a tug. 

Collision. 
5th August 1882. — The yacht 'Wave Queen' and 

the * St Malo ' (s.) Collision. 
29th July 1882. — Loss of the *May Fly.' Collision. 

* Valhalla ' (s.) and ' May Fly.' Six lives lost. 

9th September 1882. — Board of Trade Inquiry into the 

running down of the yacht * May Fly.' 
2 2d September 1883. — Loss of the 'Challenge.' 

Collision. * Ossian ' (s.), * Challenge.' 
26th April 1884. — ^The 'Enchantress.' Running down 

case. ' India ' (s.), * Enchantress.' 
28th June 1884. — Sinking of the 'Olga.' Running 

down case. * Violet ' (s.), * Olga.' 
6th September 1882. — Collision in the Solent, a yacht 

sunk. 'Prince Leopold' (s.), 'Juanita.' 
15 th November 1882. — The 'Vanessa.' Collision. 

• Don ' (s.), ' Vanessa.' One life lost. 

6th December 1882. — Collision, the 'Vanessa' and 

' Don ' (s). Board of Trade Inquiry. 

5th December 1885. — The collision between yachts 

off Cowes. ' Brilliant ' (s.), ' Avalanche.' 



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APPENDIX 119 



FROM THE 'SHIPPING GAZETTE' 
23d January 1885 to December 1887 

23d January 1885. — Before Mr. Justice Butt The 

* Magdeburgh * (s.) v, the * Henry Villard.* Collision. 
Seven lives lost 

23d January 1885. — Before Mr. Justice Butt The 

* Luke Bruce ' «^. the * Durango.' Collision. Whole 
crew drowned with exception of mate, who died 
very shortly afterwards. 

23d January 1885. — Before Sir F. Roxburgh, Q.C 
The * Alice ' v, the steam-tug * Cruiser.' Collision. 

9th January 1885. — Before Mr. Commissioner Kerr. 
The 'Ostrich' (s.) Collision, dumb barge *Ban 
Righ.' 

6th February 1885. — Before Mr. Justice Butt The 

* Union ' v, the * Kuikoura ' (s.) Collision. 

6th February 1885. — ^The *Dione' v. the 'Camden.' 

Collision. Twenty-four lives lost 
27th February 1885. — Before Sir F. Roxburgh, Q.C. 

The 'Pride of the Yare' v. the 'Speedwell' (s.) 

Collision. 
27th February 1885.— Before Mr. Justice Butt The 

' Santa Clara ' v, ' Admiral Moorson ' (s.) Collision. 
13th March 1885. — House of Lords. Owners of the 

* Elysia ' v, owners of the ' Emily ' (s.) Collision. 
2oth March 1885. — Before the Recorder. The 

' Endeavour ' (s.), ' Rose ' v. Great Yarmouth Steam 
Carrying Company. Collision with a raft 



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120 APPENDIX 



2d April 1885. — Before Mr. Justice Butt The 

' Union ' v, * Kuikoura ' (s.) Collisioa 
loth April 1885. — The * James Billenan' v. the *E1 

Darando ' (s.) Collisioa 
loth April 1885. — The 'Arabia' (s.) Bombay Police 

Court. Collision between the B. I. S. N. 

Company's Steamer * Arabia ' and a native fishing 

bagora. Three lives lost 
ist May 1885 — Before Sir James Hannen. The 

' Atmosphere ' v, the * Thyatira.' Collision, 
ist May 1885. — Barque * River Leven' of Glasgow 

V, the *Adolph Meyer* (s.) of Gothenburg. 

Collision. Official Inquiry ordered. 
8th May 1885. — The * T. M. Stevens ' v. the * Stormcock ' 

(s.) Before Sir James Hannen. Collision. 
8th May 1885. — Before Mr. Justice Butt The 'Pride 

of the Yare ' v, the * Speedwell ' (s.) Collisioa 
8th May 1885. — The *Daunebrog' v. the *Zoe' (s.) 

Before Sir James Hannea Collisioa Six lives 

lost. 
2 2d May 1885. — ^The 'United Kingdom' (steam-tug) 

and the * Ellen Anne.' Collisioa 
19th June 1885.— The *I. C. U.' v. the 'Chusan' (s.) 

Before Mr. Justice Butt Collision. All hands of 

*I. C U.'lost 
26th June 1885.— The * Hans Gude * and the ' Merchant 

Prince' (s.) Before the Wreck Commissioner. 

Collision. Eight lives lost 
26th June 1885. — ^The 'Egret' (s.) Before Mr. 

Commissioner Kerr. Tug-boat ' William ' and her 

cargo through collision with the steamer ' Egret' 
3d July 1885.— The 'Capulet' (s.)— Voss v. General 



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APPENDIX 



Steam Navigation Company. Before Judge 

Holroyd. Collision between the *Capulet' and 

the barque * Thunia.' 
3d July 1885. — ^The 'Lapwing' — Cowan and Sons v. 

General Steam Navigation Company. Before Mr. 

Justice Wills. Collision between the * Lapwing' 

(s.), barque * Eliza,' 
3d July 1885. — The * Collingrove * z/. the * Colstrup ' (s.) 

Before Mr. Justice Butt Collision, 
loth July 1885. — The *Havilar'z/. the 'Empress' (s.) 

Before Sir James Hannen. Collision, 
loth July 1885.— The 'Hawk' (s.-t.) Before Mr. 

Commissioner Kerr. Collision between the brig 

* Ann Peat ' v, the screw-tug * Hawk.' 

24th July 1 885.— The * Trojan' (s.-t.) Collision between 

iron barge * Fly ' v, the steam-tug * Trojan,' and the 

barge * Mary ' in tow. 
24th July 1885. — ^The *Hans Gude' v. the 'Merchant 

Prince.' Before Sir James Hannen. Collision. 

Eight lives lost. 
24th July iSSs—Bail Fees. The *Colstrup' (s.) v, 

* Colingrove,' etc. 

24th December 1885. — ^The ketch 'Humility.' Before 
Judge Owen. Ketch 'Humility' of Bideford ik 
Newport and Alexandria Dock .Company. Collision. 

14th August 1885.— The 'Kaluju' v. the 'Main' (s.) 
Before Sir James Hannen. Collision, Russian 
Finn barque ' Kaluju * North German Lloyd Screw 
Steamship * Main.' One life lost 

2ist August 1885. — Nantes Tribunal of Commerce. 
The 'Abeille.' Collision. Owners of dredging 
machine sued the owners of the ' Abeille ' tug, No. 



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122 APPENDIX 



1 8, and the ship *Meta,* which was in tow, for 

damage to a barge. 
28th August 1885. — ^The 'Glamorganshire' (s.) and the 

' Clarissa B. Carver.* 
1 8th September 1885. — * Cheong Po ' ». * Crusader * (s.), 

and the * Crusader ' (s.) v. * Cheong Po.' 
1 8th September 1885. — *Trevethick' (s.), 'Mauve.' 

Official Inquiry ordered. Collisioa 
2d October 1885. — ^The • Medina 'r. the 'Brunswick.' 

Collision. 
2d October 1885.— The; 'Mauve' and the 'Trevethick' 

(s.) Before Wreck Commissioner. Collision. 

Twelve lives lost 
2d October 1885. — ^The 'Excelsior' (s.), Cardiff Town 

Hall Collision. 
6th November 1885. — Before Mr. Commissioner Kerr. 

The barge ' Rebecca ' v. the tug ' Ada.' Collision. 
13th November 1885. — The barges ' Alice,' ' Maud,' and 

' Eliza Ballard,' v. the 'Vesper' (s.) Collision. 
13th November 1885. — 'Maltese Cross' (s.) r. the 

' Alma.' Collision. 
4th December 1885.— The ' Kate 'z;. the 'Odiel' (s.) 

Collision. 
4th December 1885. — ^The 'Bertie' v. the 'Challenger' 

(steam-tug). Collision. 
I St January 1886. — Official Inquiry ordered. Collision 

between the ' Hayle ' of Aberdeen and a schooner, 

off the Bell Rock, North Sea. 
ist January 1886. — Official Inquiry ordered. Collision. 
1 5th January 1 886.— The ' Hayle ' (s.) Collision. Six 

lives lost 
15th January 1886. — The 'Kirkheaton' (s.^ the 



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APPENDIX 123 



*Catherina,' and the bai^e 'Charles,' and 'Eliza,' 

Collision. 
29th January 1886. — The lugger 'Jenne Lousia' and 

the *Potaro' (s.) Collision. One life lost 
5th February 1886. — The *Elene' v. 'General Roberts' 

(s.) Collision. 
1 2th February 1886.— The 'Hugh Cann* v. the 

' Seaham Harbour' (s.) Collision. 
1 2th February 1886. — The 'Storjohann' v. the 'Para' 

(s.) Collision. 
1 2th February 1886. — Owners of the 'Santa Clara' v. 

London and North-Westem Railway Company. 

Collision. 
1 2th February 1886. — Judge BedwelL The 'Emily' 

and the ' Ada ' v, the ' Stephen Gray ' and 'Watt ' (s.) 

Collision. 
1 2th February 1886. — The barge 'Eastcourt' and the 

'Ella'(s.) Collision. 
26th February 1886. — 'Duchess of Albany' %k the 

' Oakfield ' (s.) Collision. 
5th March 1886. — Official Inquiry ordered. 
5th March 1886. — The 'Annie' (s.) and the barge 

'William.' Collision. 
5th March 1886.— The 'J. W. J.' v. the 'Seafisher' (s.) 

Collision. 
2d April 1886. — The 'Alexandra' (s.) and the barge 

'John.' Collision. 
2d April 1886. — The 'Empress' v. the 'Risea* (s.) 

Collision. 
9th April 1886.— The 'Jane' (s.) and the barge 'Flint 

and Essex.' Collision. 
9th April 1886. — House of Lords. The 'Duke of 



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124 APPENDIX 

Leinster' (s.) v. the Dublin and Glasgow Steam- 
packet Company, Dublin Port and Dock Board. 
Collision. 
2 2d April 1886. — ^The 'Antelope* (s.) and the barge 

* Alfred Little.' Collision. 

2 2d April 1886. — The *Idlewild' (s.) and the sailing 

barge * Director.* Collision. 
2 2d April 1886. — House of Lords. The 'Glenogle* 

(s.) V. the *Achille.' Collision. 
14th May 1886. — The * Mildred* and the *El Dorado* 

(s.) Collision. One life lost 
14th May 1886. — The *Jane* v, * Ralph Cheyke.* 

Collision. 
28th May 1886. — The cutter *Ida* and the 'Martello* 

(s.) Collision. One life lost. 
28th May 1886. — The *Doncaster* (s.) v, the * Unity.' 

Collision. 
4th June 1886. — The * Perseverance * and the * Donegal * 

(s.) Collision. One life lost 
4th June 1886. — House of Lords. The * Kaluja * v. the 

* Main * (s.) Collision. One life lost 

1 8th June 1886. — The * Rotifer* (s.) and the barge 'Tees.* 
25th June 1886. — The 'Crusader* v, the 'Strathnaim* 

(s.) Collision. 
2d July 1886. — The 'Antelope' (s.) and the barge 'Little.* 

Collision. 
9th July 1886. — The 'Osprey* v. the 'Pioneer* (s.) 

Collision. 
30th July 1886. — The 'Clan Macintosh* (s.) and the 

' Fidelio.* Collision. Seven lives lost 
loth August 1886. — The junk 'Lim Yeang Seang' v, 

the ' Pahnam * (s.) 



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APPENDIX 125 



13th August 1886. — The *Ogmore' (s.) v, the 'Alice.* 
Collision. 

13th August 1886.— The * Friends 'z;. the 'Ethelbert* 
(s.) Collision. 

20th August 1886. — The * Daisy' v. the *Bee' (s.) 
Collision. One life lost. 

loth September 1886. — Official Inquiry ordered. 

24th September 1886.— The *Elsy' (s.) v. the 'Jane.* 
Running into moorings. 

8th October 1886. — The sloop 'Marie' and the 'Sailor 
Prince' (s.) Collision. One life lost. 

29th October 1886. — 'Re Edward Lawson.' Fatal 
running down case. 

29th October 1886. — The barge 'Bob,' the 'Florence' 
(s.), and the * Naiad ' (s.) Collision. 

26th November 1886. — The 'Donegal' (s.) and the 
' Eagle.' Collision. 

26th November 1886.— The 'Port Victor' (s.) v. the 
' Ane Jorgiane II.' Collision. 

26th November 1886. — The 'Neptunus,' the ' Ansgar,* 
and the 'Prince of Wales,' v. the 'India' (s.) Col- 
lision. 

3d December 1886. — 'Gemini' v, the 'Mayo' (s.) 

loth December 1886. — The ' Sultan' z/. the 'Sardinian ' 
(s.) Collision. 

7th January 1887. — 'Eliza A. Kenny.' Collision. 

7th January 1887. — 'Japanese' (s.) v, 'Stimpson.' Col- 
lision. 

7th January 1887. — 'Glan Wem' (s.) Collision. 

7th January 1887. — 'Duke of Connaught' and 'Drago- 
man ' (s.) Collision. Fourteen lives lost. 

7th January 1887. — 'William Cochrane.' Collision. 



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126 APPENDIX 

7th January 1887. — 'Ulster* (s.) Eva. 

28th January 1885. — The steam barge * Speedwell' t^. 

the barge * Fanny.* Collision. 
28th January 1885. — Official Inquiry. * Duke of 

Connaught ' v, the * Dragoman ' (s.) 
4th February 1887. — ^The * Ocean Bridge' and the 

* Beryl ' (s.) Official Inquiry. Four lives lost 
4th February 1887. — * Alpha' v. * Glenmore ' (s.) 

Collision. 
4th February 1887. — The * Rivera' (s.) and the barge 

* Duet.' Collision. 

nth February 1887.— The *Nith' v, the 'ViUe de 

Permambuco' (s.) Collision. 
February 1887. — *St Rene' v, the 'Gaulois' (s.) 

Collision. 
1 8th February 1887. — The *Sybille' v, the 'Nova 

Scotian ' (s.) Collision. One life lost 
1 8th February 1887. — The 'Falcon' (s.) and the barge 

' Frederick.' Collision. 
4th March 1887. — The 'HopestQl' v, the 'Raven' (s.) 

Collision. 
4th March 1887. — 'Juan Cunningham' (s.) and the barge 

* John.' Collision. 

i.8th March 1887.— The * Annie ' and the * St Clements ' 

(s.) Collision. Eight lives lost 
15th April 1887. — Barge 'Ivy' and the ' Charles Morand ' 

(s.) Collision, 
loth June 1887.— The 'Alacrity' (s.) and the 'Leila.' 

Collision. Three lives lost 
loth June 1887. — The 'Betsy' and the 'Samuel Laing' 

(s.) Collision. One life lost 
ist July 1887.— The 'Tern' (s.) and the 'Hamburg. 

Collision. Five lives lost 



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APPENDIX 127 



ist July 1887. — The *Seaton' (s.) and the *San 

Cayetano.' Collision. Three lives lost 
ist July 1887. — The 'Carnarvon Castle' and the 

* Trojan ' (s.) 

15th July 1887. — Running down of the fishing-boat 

* Darling.* Collision. Two lives lost. 

I Sth July 1 887. — The ' Express ' and the 'Alf.' Jameson 

V. * Rasmussen,* et ^ contra. Collision. 
5th August 1 887. — The * Tenasserim* (s.), the 'Norcross,' 

and the ' Antares.' Collision. 
19th August 1887. — The *Trixie H.* and the * Plover' 

(s.) Collision. Five lives lost. 
26th August 1887. — The * Lydia * and the * Pavonia' (s.) 

Collision, Two lives lost 
a 6th August 1887. — The * Australina ' (s.) and the * Annie 

Lisle.' Collision. 
28th October 1887.— The * William' and the * Norma' 

(s.) Collision. One life lost 
nth November 1887. — Official Inquiry. Running 

down of the fishing smack * Zoe ' by * Grenadier ' (s.) 
nth November 1887. — The *Upupa' (s.) and the 

* Planteur.' Collision. Eleven lives lost 

2d December 1887. — Official Inquiry. The 'Star' 
and the * Cyprus ' (s.) Two lives lost. 



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128 APPENDIX 



BOARD OF TRADE INQUIRIES 

Fatal collision. — "Said they were of opinion that, 
under the circumstances, the sailing vessel was justified 
in showing a flare light It appeared that when the 
flare was seen from the steamer it was thought to be 
shown from the stem of an overtaking vessel, but there 
was some doubt, and under the circumstances the 
master of the steamer was not justified in continuing his 
course and bearing down upon the approaching vessel, 
but that he should have made such an alteration in her 
course which would have taken her clear. In their 
opinion, the master of the steamer was to blame for the 
collision in continuing his course, and not reducing 
speed when the flare was seen, but it was difficult for 
them to say that he had been guilty of a wrongful act 
or default He might have been deceived by the flare 
when first seen, and mistaking it as being shown by an 
overtaking ship, but he was wrong in continuing her on 
the course and speed. Although they considered that 
the master was guilty of a serious error of judgment, still 
they thought that it was not such a grave act and default 
as would justify them in dealing with his certificate. 
Every effort to save life seemed to have been made by 
the steamer, and the sailing vessel was not to blame." 
Fatal collision. — "It was the opinion of the Court 

that the (s.) was also navigated with proper and 

seamanlike care up to the time of the sinking of the 

. The steamer had not kept a proper look-out on 

board. The Court, however, believed that after the 



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APPENDIX \2i^ 

collision everything was done by the officers and crew 
of the steamer to save life. The collision and loss of 
life caused thereby was caused by the default on the 

part of , first officer of the steamer, who had 

failed to keep a proper look-out and had not shown 
proper seamanship. It was the intention of the Court 
to suspend his certificate for twelve months from this 
date." 

Fatal collision. — "The Court were of opinion that 

, master of the steamer, and , second mate, 

did not exhibit sufficient humanity in trying to save lives, 
and suspended the captain's certificate for four months, 
and the second mate's for three months." 

Fatal collision. — "The master was not in default, 
but the mate, in the opinion of the Court, was in default, 
in respect that prior to the collision he did not keep a 
proper look-out, and left his post when only a man at the 
wheel was on the bridge in charge of the vessel In the 
circumstances the Court found it necessary to deal with 
the mate's certificate, but having regard to his previous 
good character, as proved in evidence, limited its sus- 
pension to a period of six months. The nautical 
assessors unanimously and unreservedly concurred in 
the judgment of the Court" 

Fatal collision. — " Mr. in giving judgment 

said the Court was of opinion that the steamer did not 
comply with the * Regulations for preventing Collisions 
at Sea,' and that practically the sailing vessel did 
comply therewith. It thought further that at the time 
of the collision the sailing vessel was stationary, and that 
she exhibited the light required by the Regulations. In 
the opinion of the Court the steamer did not comply 

K 



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I30 APPENDIX 

with Arts. 17 and 18 of the Regulations. The master of 
the steamer was not justified in leaving the deck in 
charge of the boatswain after the light of the sailing 
vessel had been reported. The life of one of the crew 
of the sailing vessel was lost in consequence of injuries 
which he received in the collision, but it appeared that 
all proper steps were taken by the master of the steamer 
to avoid this loss of life. The steamer was not navi- 
gated with proper and seamanlike caore, and the casualty 

was caused by the wrongful act and default of 

her master, but in view of the excellent testimonials that 
he had received, the Court would not suspend his 
certificate for a longer period than three months. The 
Board of Trade would be recommended to grant him a 
first mate's certificate during the period that his master's 
certificate was suspended." 

Fatal collision. — The Commissioner in giving judg- 
ment said : " The sole blame for the collision rested with 
the master of the steamer, and the question was whether, 
in the opinion of the assessors, his certificate should be 
dealt with as regards his conduct in porting when he 
saw the red light, in not starboarding when the green 
light appeared, and in not stopping and reversing. The 
Board thought that they were merely errors of judgment, 
for which they would not think of dealing with his 
certificate. The Court, however, had more doubt as to 
what it ought to do in regard to his conduct in going at 
this rate of speed over a spot frequented by such a 
number of vessels. They thought, however, that there 
was some excuse for him in being led to believe that he 
could see much farther than as a matter of fact he could. 
On the whole they were disposed to take a lenient view 



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APPENDIX 131 



of the case, and they would not, therefore, deal with his 
certificate." 

Fatal collision. — " The Commissioner in giving judg- 
ment said the sailing vessel was navigated with proper 
and seamanlike care, and kept her course, as it was her 
duty to do. But with regard to the steamer the feeling 
of the Court was that she was navigated in a very im- 
proper and unseamanlike manner, and that it was due 
to this, and this alone, that the collision was due. In 
the opinion of the assessors, the collision was entirely 
due to the wrongful act and default of the second 
officer, and thought that it was a case in which it was 
impossible for them not to deal with his certificate. 
Looking at all the circumstances, they were of opinion 
that his certificate should be suspended for nine 
months." 

Fatal collision. — " The Court found that the collision 
was due to the second mate of the steamer having 
neglected to observe the * Regulations for preventing 
Collisions at Sea,* and they suspended that ofiicer's 
certificate for twelve months." 

Fatal collision. — ** The collision and loss of life caused 
thereby was caused by the default of the first officer, 
who had failed to keep a proper look-out, and had not 
shown proper seamanship. It was the intention of the 
Court to suspend his certificate for twelve months from 
this date." 

THE END 



PrimUdhy R. & R. Clark, Edinburgh 



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Temple Comer. 

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Mount Zion. 

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LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS, 

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Gerizim and Shechem. 

Jacob's Well. 

Samaria. 

Dothan and Carmel. 

Plain of Esdraelon. 

Jezreel. 

Mount Tabor. 

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Galilaean Uplands and Carmel. 

Saftd, the City set on a Hill. 

Hattin, or Mount of Beatitudes. 

Ruins of Tiberias. 



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W. H. ALLEN & CO., 18, Watebloo Place, S.W. 



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In Januarjf ctnd July of each year it pubUshed in Svo., price 10«. M. 

THE INDIA LIST, CIVIL AND MILITARY. 

BT TMkMSaaOK OV IHB SBOBBTART OV RATB VOB INDIA IN OOUNOL 



OONTBNTi. 

Oi vlLi.— Gradation Lists of Oivil Service, Bengal, Madras and Bombay 
Oiyil Annuitants. LagislatiTe Oonncil, Eoolesiastical Establishments, 
Sdnoational, Public Works, Judicial, Marine, Medical, Land Revenue, 
Political, Postal, Police, Oustoms and Salt, Forest, Registration and 
Railway and Telegraph Departments, Law Courts, Surveys, fto. dpo. 

MILITART.— Gradation List of the General and Field Officers (British and 
Local) of the three Presidencies, Staff Corps, Adjutants-General's and 
Quartermasters-General's Offices, Army Commissariat Departments, 
British Troops serving in India Qnoluding Royal Artillery, Royal Engi- 
neers, Cavalry, Infantiy, and Medical Department), List of Ni^ve 
Regiments, Commander-m-Chief and Staff, Garrison Instruction Staff 
Indian Medical Department, Ordnance Departmente, Punjab BVontier 
Force, Bfilitary Departments of the three Presidencies, Veterinary De- 
partments, Tables showing the Distribution of the Army in India, Lists 
of Retired Officers of the three Presidencies. 

HOME. — ^Departments of the Office of the Secretary of State, Coopers 
Hill College, List of Selected ;Qandidates for the Civil and Forest 
Servioes, Indian Troop Service. 

BflSCELLANEOUS.— Orders of the Bath, Star of India, and St. Biichael 
and St. George. Order of Precedence in bidia. Regulations for Admis- 
sion to Civil Service. Regulations for Admission of Chaplidns. Civil 
Leave Code and Supplements. Civil Service Pension Code — ^relating to 
the Covenanted and Unoovenanted Services. Rules for the Indian 
Medical Service. Furlough and Retirement Regulations of the Indian 
Army. Family Pension Fund. Staff Corps Regulations. Salaries of 
Staff Officers. Regulations for Promotion. English Furlough Pay. 

With complete Index. 



THE 

ROYAL KALEISTDAR, 

AND COURT AND CITY REGISTER, 

FOR ENGLAND, IRELAND, SCOTLAND, AND THE COLONIES, 

For the Tear 1887. 

House of Peen — H<mse of Commons— Sovereif(ns and Rulers of States 
nf Europe— Orders of Knighthood — Science and Art Department — Queen's 
Household— Government Offices — Mint— Customs — Inland Revenue- 
Post Office — Foreign Ministers and Consuls — Queen's Consuls Abroad- 
Naval Department — ^Navy List — ^Army Department — ^Army lis^— Law 
Courts — ^Police— Eoclesisstioal Department — dam List — Foundation 
Schools — ^Literaiy Institutions— City of London— Banks — Railwav Com- 
panies — ^Horaitals and Listitutions— Chanties — Miscellaneous Institutions 
— Scotland, Ireland, India, and the Colonies ; and other useful information . 

Price with Index, 7$. ; without Index, 6#. 

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PtihUikedtmthsarfivalof BOifk overkindlfaUJhmlttdla. SuhsoripHon 
80ff. per ammmm. Specimen eopjf, 6d, 

ALLEN'S INDLU^ MAIL. 

rsoK 
INDIA, CHINA, AND ALL PARTS OF THE EAST. 

Aclbh'i Iwdiak Mail contains the fullest and most authentic Reports 
of all important Occurrences in the Countries to which it is demoted, com- 
piled chiefly from private and exdosive sources. It has been pronounced 
by the Press in general to be imdupeneahU to all who have Friends or Rela- 
tives in the Bast, as aflbrding the only eorreci information regarding th^ 
Sendees, Movements of Troops, Shipping, and all events of Domestic and 
faidividnal interest. 

The subjoined list of the usual Contents will show the importance and 
variety of the information concentrated in Ax.Lsif'a Iwdiax Mail. 

Summary and Remew of Eastern News. 
Proeis of PabUe Intolllgenre 
S«loctio]&si fkrom the IndUm Press 
M o vements of droops 
The CtoTsmment Ossette 
Oowts Martial 
Domostle Intellivenee— Births 

ff ff Maniayes 

„ „ Doaths 

Home Intelligence relating to IncUOf 4^e. 
Original Artlelss ArrlTSls reported In Wn gland 



ShlpplniT— AsrlTal of Ships 

„ „ Passencera 

ff Departure of Ships 
f, Passencsrs 

CommereUl-StateoftheMavlMts 
„ Indian Becnrltiss 

„ Prelghts 



Mlscellaneons Information 
AppolntmsntSy Extensions of 
Porlonshs, fto., fte. 

OlTU 

„ MUltary 

Boolsslastlf^l and 
,] Marine 

BoTlew of Works on the Sast, and Votloes of all aflUrs ooanootod 
with India and the Services. 



Departnres fg pf 

Shipping— Arrival of Ships 

„ „ Passettgers 

, Departure at SbAps 

„ „ Passensers 

Vessel spoken with 



Tbxongfaont the Paper one uniform system of arrangement prevails, and at the 

oonduBlon of each year an Iia>BX is tarnished, to enable Subscribere to 

bind up the Volume, which forms a complete 

ASIATIC AH HUAL BEBBTEB AMD LtBIUBY OF REFERENCL 

London: W. H. ALLEN & Co., 18, WATERLOO PLACE, S.W 

(publishers to the indu office). 

To whom communications for the Editor^ and AdvertisemeniSf 

are requested to he addressed. 



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QEORQE ELIOT. 

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COUNTESS OF ALBANY. 

HARRIET MARTINEAU. 

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QODWIN. 

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MARQARET OF NAVARRE. 

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HANNAH MORE. 

ELIZABETH BARRETT 
BROWNINQ. 



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